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Showing results for 'Liner height'.
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Hi all, bit of a strange one this! Looking at a prospect purchase for a member of a TR4 yesterday, and the clutch pedal was at least 40mm higher that the brake pedal. In fact looking under the bonnet, the very top of the pedal is only held by hitting the edge of the carrier, anyone had this and point us at at a remedy? Brake pedal is fine. John.
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Hi Jim, thank you for the photo, and after browsing for the correct spare part: the difference is the pushrod. Original is a fixed lenght, but I bought my TR4A in 2009 with a longer and adjustable one, I found it on photos and in my scrap box. Until today I used a selfmade more solid adjustabel push rod, adjusted to the maximum lenght. I was always very pleased with the situation. My test today with a shorter one brings both pedals on the same height, this has advantages but (IMO) more disadvantages. I'm not pleased with the situation and will do another modification.
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Yes mine are all the same height and depth. Mike Redrose Group
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Hmm that’s interesting. On my 4A the clutch and brake pedal, (even the accelerator pedal), are all the same height. Jim
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Have you tried adjusting the needle height ? Bob
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Alternative rear view mirror on a Sidescreen car
BlueTR3A-5EKT replied to Ian Vincent's topic in TR2/3/3A/3B Forum
I will post my progress on making a stem for my tatty 584 to fix in the original position. I cannot dangle it from the screen top as aeroscreens have no upper frame. That is this summer’s job. I am getting sick and tired of being dazzled from behind by over height soft roaders with ridiculously bright and poorly aimed head lamps. If I could set the mirror to reflect directly back at the offending driver I would. -
Good morning, i own a TR4 A that came with Webers. I had the engine and the carbs rebuilt and everything runs as it should except 2 small issues. 1 - idle goes up to 1500rpm from time to time (suspect some fuel find its way at idle) 2 - after the last run (i have maybe 250 miles post rebuilt - weather was quite hot Saturday like 26 degrees) i did hear the infamous pcchht of fuel hitting a hot object after shutting down the engine, and did see that the front carbs was leaking at the inlet manifold for a minute or 2, no big leak just a drop every 5 seconds. I suspect fuel he
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I designed it to allow the chassis to run in and out under it which also frees up the other side of the garage for my 6 Yes when you are getting on in life the work height is so much easier haha cheers David
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Spookily similar looking bodyshell to mine with the blue! Nice having the shell at that height eh!
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My 'other' classic driver is a Daimler 250 ..a Mk2 Jaguar with the Daimler 2.5 ltr V8 engine. Although not specific to a TR forum some one here may be able to advise as the servo is of the period. It is a remote unit fitted half way under the front OS inner wheel arch and so access to it is a pain. On my car the braking system was reconditioned two years ago, before I bought the car, and it's all looking to be in good order. The fault my car has is that brake servo appears to stick at the top of the pedal and then releases suddenly with too much braking force (rather than a smooth
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Quick update: I measured float height to get to 25mm (from main jet deck to fuel level) cold (priming the fuel pump manually). I had to add 1mm to the front carb that was leaking, this is close to 12mm at the tip. Don’t try to ply the float lever without removing it, you will damage the valve (ask me how i know). After a drive yesterday the front carb is still dripping after i shut down the engine. So i measured the fuel level just after switching off the engine and the fuel level is too high when hot, like 22mm to fuel level, 25 mm is standard, some go to 27mm (remove the main je
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Is this the item that stands behind driver and passenger to stop the wind blowing your hair in your face? If correctly positioned and height they are an improvement to the coefficient of drag on a sports cars without the roof erected. I witnessed this in wind tunnel tests on modern convertible cars. It does all change though with windows up or down. Avoid the clear plastic sheet type, they cause different turbulence The type that has a mesh is superior. Ebay has people selling them, mostly from Europe, although a couple are UK stocked. search. https://www.ebay.co.u
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Leave the rear catch off completely till youve finished alignment also the rear rubber seal. Loosen the cones at the rear just enough to move then you can align the rear end of the bonnet to sit in them and get the rear height right. Its too late to align the sides as that requires wings off to bend the inner wing rails to suit. The side rubbers sometimes need a little shave off if the gap is too narrow. Leave the headlamps out so you can get to the mounting bolts. Make sure the captive plates move OK in the frame, Leave the side strap bolts till youve finished the alignment as you may find th
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Also keep in mind.....Establish your desired ride height as height will change the camber. Do you have adjustable TA brackets?
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Make sure the doors are aligned in height with the wings along the swage line before drilling.
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Hi, I’ve an original tank and wondered if anyone has any idea what depth (height on a dipstick) of fuel equates to a gallon. Many thanks.
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Can anyone interpret the height measurement of the steering rack mount plates in relation to another part of the chassis from the workshop manual, pictured above.
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thanks Tom, i will aim for something like 27mm and report back the necessary plastic float height. kind regards, Laurent
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Hi all My experience is that oil coolers are only really needed if you are using a lot of revs for a sustained period …. So some fast road, long motorway driving at upwards of 4000 rpm, rallying, racing etc where you’re running the oil hot to its limits. Otherwise, why would you ? I’m sure many who use their cars gently don’t need them. Adding to the above, I’ve learnt that running oil temperatures that are too cool actually starves the rear of the engine of oil … with serious consequences, so again use in cold temperatures ie winter driving means No Cooler! The optimal engine oil t
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A few shots of ‘crud’ build up around No4 liner in my TR4 engine prior to rebuild. I couldn’t believe how much there was and how solid it had become. The drain tap hole was difficult to clear. Oxtail soup anyone.. Ade IMG_3096.mov
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Peter - how long is/are the 1/2"(?) UNF set screws that you used/sourced? I understand that there isn't very much depth beyond the wall of the block before the cylinder liner is impacted.
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That is why I fitted the standard double valve springs from Chris Witor. These were recommended by other members when I ordered them. Before installing I checked their spring rate and height and they complied with the values in the WSM. Waldi
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Not likely unless on telescopic shockers that are fully compressed at normal ride height. TR5s only had telescopic shockers at the front lever arms being fitted at the rear. That wouldn't mean it hadn't been converted to telescopic rear dampers. But rear telescopic rears were only fitted from the TR7 onwards although the same basic trailing arm set up utilised telescopic dampers on the 2000/2.5 & Stags. Pictures have gone but more likely long springs or a body mounting issue.
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Consider swaging a flare on the plain end of your new bulkhead fittings to give a better chance of the hose sealing. All this waffle about coating the adaptor with gasket sealant is a sticking plaster for pipes that are too small for the hoses due to metrication. From another post….. The fitting I had to swage was stainless. The clamp part of the tool I have fitted snuggly and then I formed a simple flare to the tube to increase its final diameter. Be sure to remove any nicks or burrs from the tube end that could cut the hose. I have just done a dummy test on my
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Here in Germany, too, a "holistic" approach to injection is always a major topic. Temperature of the fuel, pressure of the pump, swirlpot of the tank, diameter of the tank drain, double pump, cooling of the ignition coil, etc. So there are many possible reasons why a PI does not run properly, especially at higher temperatures. But at the end of the day, there is always the realization that there is no single cause or measure. And there are TRs that run perfectly well and others that are a pain. I have not yet been able to establish a connection as to whether TRs with a lot of additional techno
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