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Tr4aJim

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About Tr4aJim

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  • Location
    Across the pond, New Jersey USA
  • Cars Owned:
    65 Tr4a (live axle)

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  1. Tr4aJim

    JamieH

    Jamie, I had the same problem on my TR4a a few years ago. Initial inspection pointed to a problem with the return spring on the forward HS6. However after closer inspection, I found that a PO had used a bellcrank bracket (75) from a different car (possibly a TR6). This bracket anchors the bottom of the throttle return springs. The incorrect bracket caused the forward return spring to sit at an angle rather than vertical, increasing its travel. I guess over time that forward spring stretched more than the rear one, causing it not to fully close the forward butterfly at rest. I installed the correct bracket, (with new springs), and problem solved. BTW - the attached parts diagram appears to show the link rod (73) connecting to the rear most hole on the bellcrank (71). It actually connects to the forward most hole (the vertical link rod, 70, connects to the rear most hole). See Tim’s picture. Jim
  2. Thanks, I will measure the ones on the car. Jim
  3. Folks, I’m going to replace the rear leaf spring mounting components (bushes, shackles, etc) on my live axle Tr4A. I checked Moss US and TRF, and both said the rear shackles are N/A. I checked Moss UK and Revington, and they also said they were N/A. However Rimmer Bros has the rear shackles in stock. That struck me as a bit odd. It seems to me that if one supplier had them, the others would as well. I’m concerned that Rimmer Bros May be selling a shackle from a different car as a replacement part (but you’d think they would say that). Any thoughts? thanks Jim
  4. Regarding tools; be sure to use only 6 point sockets, as 12 point will round over the bolts/nuts. Jim
  5. Tr4aJim

    choke cable

    Would guitar strings work as the inner wire? Jim
  6. Thanks Stuart. Hmm good point Andy. Something else to check. Jim
  7. Thanks Stuart! What led you to mix rubber and poly bushes? I’ve only seen mention of either all rubber or all poly. What rear spring clamps did you use? Also you bring up a good point. As I said, I rebuilt the front suspension with all poly bushes, but I still have rubber ones in the rear (the PO must have replaced those at some point as they looked in good condition). Could that difference in stiffness contribute to the mild oversteer I described? Jim
  8. Thanks Mick, I will try that! Jim
  9. Thanks Mick! That’s a class on suspensions right there! Marco, no I wouldn’t say it “rolls”. Here’s the thing. Last year I did a complete rebuild of the front suspension; springs, bushings (poly), shocks, the works, plus a new alignment. Afterwards, the car felt much more responsive to steering inputs, tracked straight as an arrow, and was more controlled when hitting bumps, etc. However it did feel like it was now oversteering when cornering. I found myself correcting to center more while negotiating a corner at speed. Nothing severe mind you, but noticeable. That made me wonder if the front wheels were behaving more independently in turns with the new hardware, and if a front bar would make them work more in unison. Or, I was just use to the handling with the tired old components, and it’s behaving now as it should! Jim
  10. Thanks guys! Mick, if I may pick your brain a bit more; I have seen many “sport” cars come from the factory with pipe size front bars, and pencil size bars in the rear. Why the large size difference? Also, as my TR4a has a live rear axle, would fitting a rear bar designed for a Tr6 (IRS) be a mistake? Were rear bars offered for the Tr4 from the factory? BTW - one of my winter projects is to follow your instructions for setting bump steer. Jim
  11. Folks, I was reading the thread “Tr4 tyre choice and neg camber advice”, and have a question regarding anti-roll bars and the Tr4a. After visiting part supplier sites from the US and the UK, it appears that Tr4a front anti-roll bars are listed either as “Tr6 type” or there isn’t a listing at all. Yet apparently a front anti-roll bar was a Tr4 factory option. Why were anti-roll bars not offered for the Tr4a, yet reintroduced for the Tr6? What about rear anti-roll bars on IRS vs a live axle Tr4a? On a technical note, should anti-roll bars always be fitted as a pair (front and rear), or is front only sufficient? thanks Jim
  12. John #1 - yeah I’m torn about originality vs dependability, but yes a stock overdrive unit would be cheaper after adding shipping. BTW - Moss US sells the same kit but at twice the price!! Moss US prices are always way too high, so even with shipping, getting some parts from UK can still be cheaper (unless I find the parts at TRF). John #2 - their web site just says “significant weight savings”. EDIT - I asked Vitesse about using Tr4a kits with live axle cars and here’s what they said, “Thank you for your enquiry. Fortunately Triumph kept the same prop shaft lengths throughout the TR production, so the TR4a kit will work for you. Please make sure you order the TR4a kit as there are differences in the clutch setup compared to the TR4 kit!” Jim
  13. Folks, I just found this Tr4a 5 speed conversion kit - https://www.vitesse-ltd.com/products/vittr252?variant=29075685539923 Does anyone have any experience with it? I have been contemplating installing a stock Type A overdrive, or one of those Toyota 5 speed based conversions, in my car for quite a while (life always seems to get in the way). So this one has piqued my interest again. Jim
  14. FYI - at 26:20 the mention of “lemon squashes”, is a nod to the YouTube channel The Skid Factory. That channel and another Aussie channel Mighty Car Mods, frequently tip their hats to each other. Jim
  15. Andy, I’ve seen that parts diagram before, and always wondered when that hood/bonnet safety catch (2 & 11) was introduced in the Tr4a. The Stanpart catalogue does not show that part. Could it have been for the North American market only? Though my 65 live axle Tr4a doesn’t have one. Jim
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