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About Tr4aJim

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  • Location
    Across the pond, New Jersey USA
  • Cars Owned:
    65 Tr4a (live axle)

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619 profile views
  1. Folks, I thought I’d put up some pictures of the installation of the gas tank firewall I got from Revington: https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr7102/name/fire-wall-tr4a-6 First, let me be VERY clear that I am by no stretch of the imagination, a sheet metal worker! In fact the only sheet metal tools I have, is a small ball peen hammer and a pair of tin snips. The first thing I had to do was remove the rear trim board, the roll bar, and then carefully peel back the vinyl trim from the rear vertical edges (this install would be so much easier on a car that doesn’t have an interior ye
  2. I found the forum link I was referring to: Jim
  3. I have minilite copies on my car, but I recall a few years ago someone posted on this forum about “American Racing” wheels. They looked really good, but I think they said those were very expensive. Jim
  4. When I did my wheel bearings I tried trimming a felt seal down with a razor blade but botched the job pretty badly. When I was done, the width was all over the place. So the next thing I tried was to first soak one in oil first, then compressed it under a block of wood for awhile. It took a few tries but resulted in a thinner profile that fit very well. Jim
  5. EliTR6, mine have “CX-668” on the sidewall. Jim
  6. Thanks Stuart. Yes it does have the strap from the engine to the frame at the cross tube. So I’ll move the battery strap from the bell housing to the bulkhead, and add one someplace between the frame and the body. Belts and braces!! Jim
  7. Thanks gents! As my car has the negative post of the battery going to to the bell housing/engine rather than to the bulkhead, I’ll correct that. As Roger states, the frame-to-body bolts should provide a grounding path between the frame and the body. However, not knowing how good those connections are, is it prudent to run a strap from the frame to the body as well? cheers Jim
  8. Folks, the current issue of TR-Action (326) has a letter from a gentleman who suffered a car fire as a result of questionable electrical grounding under heavy loads from an electric fan. I do not have an electric fan, but I do run an electric fuel pump, so I took this article to heart. I did some searches on the forum about grounding the electrical system, but I’m still not clear on what’s considered best practice. My TR4A (negative ground) has a ground strap from the engine to the frame, and the negative post of the battery is attached to a bolt holding the bell housing to the block. Is this
  9. I run 165/80 Nankang tires on my car and like them very much. Jim
  10. I fitted plastic terminal covers on the battery terminals. I also have a negative (earth) disconnect on the battery, that I’ve made of a habit of opening every time I park the car. Jim
  11. The PO installed Toyota 4 piston calipers on my TR4a. My first reaction when I bought the car was to swap them out for stock ones. However, brake performance was good, and getting pads is very easy (especially here in the US), so I kept them. Jim
  12. This may be a bit heretical, but that bonnet looks very nice without the letters! Jim
  13. Andy, maybe. However I’ve never had any leakage or filter removal problems (touch wood). Jim
  14. That looks similar to the one the PO fitted to my car. Unfortunately I don’t know the brand. However the pressure housing says Purolator, so maybe the whole thing came as a kit. Jim
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