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About Tr4aJim

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  • Location
    Across the pond, New Jersey USA
  • Cars Owned:
    65 Tr4a (live axle)

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  1. I have a live axle Tr4a, so no IRS woes. However can a similar failure happen with the front stub axles/hubs? I don’t know the age of the ones on my car. Jim
  2. If I remember correctly, it is the wiring of the Tr4a “flash to pass” feature, that is shown incorrectly on the Autowire diagram for the Tr4a. Jim
  3. Ian, the 1/16 toe-in matches what the TR4a supplement says in the manual. Though John recommended zero toe-in, he did mention to err to toe-in. So maybe I’ll start with 1/16 toe-in and see how it tracks. Thanks Jim
  4. Ok, set toe-in to zero. In lieu of using the weights, should camber be set at zero, so the car will go to negative 1/2 loaded? thanks Jim
  5. Folks, I just wanted to confirm the front end alignment numbers for a TR4a, based on what’s in the shop manual, as some parts of the TR4a supplement say to reference the TR4 section. Camber: 2 degrees positive (page 4-101) Toe-in: Here the manual is a bit confusing. On page 4-101 it says “1/8 inch (normal tires) or 1/16 inch (Michelin X or Goodyear DFS)”. However on page 4-211 it just says 1/16 inch toe-in. The manual also says to place 150 lbs of weight on the seats during alignment. Is this necessary, or was that a requirement due to tire construction at the time? BTW - if it makes a difference, I’m running 165/80 R15 radials. Thanks Jim
  6. Geko, the new fulcrums are from Moss (US), I don’t know where the old ones were sourced. Bob, I was under the impression that by reversing the fulcrums, the front end can’t be aligned to 4a specs. Is that not correct? Which begs the question, what was Triumph trying to “fix” by flipping the fulcrums? Could it be the differences in the frame geometry from the Tr4? If the Tr4a supplement in the shop manual shows them in the same orientation as the Tr4, the decision to change them must have come late in the process. Jim
  7. John, here are some pictures of an old and new fulcrum bolted together. The mounting holes in both line up ok, however the “bridge” in both are slightly different. In the first picture the old fulcrum is on top. You can see the new one underneath is slightly offset toward the shock dome side. In the second, the new fulcrum in on top, and you can see the old fulcrum is offset slightly toward the engine side. Granted its not much of a difference, but its enough to have the new one foul near the bottom of the shock tower dome. Jim
  8. Geko, I checked the vertical pad gap, and the old and new fulcrums have the basically same as you show. However I placed the old and new fulcrums pad to pad, I found the the cross bar on the new fulcrum is offset almost 3 mil further toward the tower dome, than the old fulcrum. This must be why the new one fouled badly on the dome. I also compared the two old ones, and cross bar of the one that fits the left side, is about 1 mil further from the dome. So it is possible, the PO May have ground away the difference to get the left one to fit. The new ones are too far off. thanks Jim
  9. Hi Paul, so you think the point where the top of the tower meets the dome was repaired at some point, and the distance from the threaded holes to the dome was shortened slightly? If true then maybe the PO ground some of the inner surface off the left fulcrum to make it fit. I took a picture of the old left fulcrum on top of the old right one (I put some white paint on the right one for contrast). You can see the left one is slightly narrower. Also, both of the old ones are narrower than the new ones. Jim
  10. Folks, Well I’ve hit yet another snag in my suspension rebuild. The good news is I have successfully assembled the right hand suspension (using nylon bushes). The bad news is I’ve run into an issue on the left hand side. The new fulcrum doesn’t fit! It’s a bit hard to see in the picture, but with one bolt threaded in, you can just see that fulcrum bolt hole on the other side doesn’t line up with the threaded hole in the tower, (maybe 2 mil or so out), and the fulcrum is up against the dome of the shock tower. I have the fulcrum oriented with the “shallow” side toward the tower. Though it looks like the fulcrum should have the “deep” side toward the tower (and the shop manual Tr4a supplement bears this out), I remember reading a thread on this forum that this is incorrect for a Tr4a, and the “shallow” side should face the tower (please correct me if I’m wrong about this). Anyway, what’s odd is the new fulcrum on the right side went in with no issue. Yet the tower and dome on the left side look in good shape with no evidence of being deformed. Do you think it would be ok to grind some of the fulcrum enough to clear the dome, or would this weaken the part too much? BTW - I forgot to mention that I compared the new fulcrum with the old one I removed from the left side, and the middle “bridge” is narrower on the old part. BTW #2 - I just tried the old right side fulcrum onto the left shock tower, and it doesn’t fit there either! It is offset by the dome just like the new fulcrum. I compared the two old fulcrums, and the one that fits the left has a bit more bevel on the lower edge than the one from the right. Strange thanks Jim
  11. Sorry, one more question. Do the nylon or poly bushes also require torquing with the suspension loaded, or is that just for rubber bushes? Jim
  12. Stuart, you know I thought it was odd that Moss supplied nylon bushes for the lower wishbone/trunnion pivots, but rubber ones for the lower wishbone pivot brackets, as well as the upper wishbones. Was that how they came from the factory? Anyway, a quick look at the Moss site shows them listing both nylon and poly bushes as options over the rubber ones. Is there a durability difference between nylon and poly? Jim
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