Jump to content

Tr4aJim

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    352
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Tr4aJim

Profile Information

  • Location
    Across the pond, New Jersey USA
  • Cars Owned:
    65 Tr4a (live axle)

Recent Profile Visitors

801 profile views
  1. Speaking of “bargains”, this just sold at Mecums in Florida - for $82,000 https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0122-486966/1962-triumph-tr4-roadster/ Jim
  2. I have HS6s on my 65 TR4a, that were added by the PO, and the choke goes to the rear carb. Also I believe since the early TR4As didn’t have HS6 carbs, the choke cable originally routed from a lower hole in the bulkhead, below the carbs. When HS6s were fitted later, which receive the choke cable from above, a new bulkhead hole was added up by the heater hoses, so the choke could be routed from above. Jim
  3. Thanks, I should have included it in my post. Jim
  4. The PO had installed a Pertronix “Ignitor” distributor in my 4A, which worked fine until it didn’t (without warning, the mechanical advance spring mount broke off). Rather than go with another electronic dizzy, I called the US based Lucas distributor specialist British Vacuum Unit. He sent me a rebuilt correct Lucas dizzy & points, pre set and curved. My car never ran so good! Jim
  5. Roy, I used the 87-2-1/4 and 87-2-1/8 alone or in various combinations depending on the gap I was filling. Jim
  6. I used this company for bonnet anti-vibration packing- https://www.woolies-trim.co.uk/category/343/plain-felt Jim
  7. Hello Jeremy! Is that the Revington fuel tank fire barrier kit? I installed one in my 65 TR4A, and was very pleased with the kit. Don’t forget to add fire stop sealant to all the seems. cheers Jim
  8. David, several folks in the US, (including myself), on the Triumph Experience forum, found a discrepancy in the Advanced Autowire TR4A wiring diagram. It regards the wiring of the lighting switch, specifically the flash-to-pass feature. We’re not sure if this change was somehow for US market cars or some other factory change. At any rate. here is the wiring diagram I drew up to reflect what I found in my TR4A. Please excuse the scrawl (those letters are U not V) Jim
  9. Thanks, I’ll check eBay too. Jim
  10. Folks, were the original rear number plate light lenses glass? If so, do any suppliers still offer them? All the ones I’ve found are plastic. thanks Jim
  11. I have Securon belts on my TR4A, and mounted them at the base of the arches. I also added a steel belt guide to the roll over bar I also have fitted. So the belt goes vertical from the reel, through the guide, then almost horizontal to the seat back. I also added a belt guide to the headrest posts (I have MX5 seats), to bring the belt easier to hand. However because of the extra drag on the belt from the guide, I needed to add more strength to the racket action. I removed the belt from the ratchet drum assembly, and gave the spring loaded drum a few extra turns to increase the force of the s
  12. Bob, oops yeah 3 & 9 (damn digital clocks) Ian, the spot welds holding the cam did not look factory to me, so a PO may have tacked the cam to keep it from shifting, or just repaired a factory config. jim
  13. On my TR4A the left indicator wouldn’t cancel but the right would. I found that with the steering wheel (and wheels) centered, the indicator cam on the steering column was at roughly 2 and 8 o’clock, but it was spot welded in place on the column. I had to disconnect the steering column down by the steering rack (as those splines have complete 360 adjustments), rotate the column so the indicator cam was at 3 and 6, then detach and recenter the steering wheel. A bit of a pain to do, but problem solved. Jim
  14. Don when I rebuilt the suspension on my TR4A I used poly bushings as well. I was able to press them in with a large vice. As for the spring compressor, Marco’s is very nice. However if you are paranoid about refitting that spring under tension, I’ve seen folks drill through the threaded rod and fit a cotter pin at each end. This prevents the nuts from backing off the rod as you release the tension. However being a “belt and braces” kind of guy, I bought this bespoke spring tool for removing the spring. https://windyridgefarm.us/Triumph-Churchill.php All in all, rebuilding the front sus
  15. My TR4A has a TR4 block breather pipe that was installed by the PO. He also removed the TR4A PCV system, and capped the tube on the rocker cover. However it does have the TR4A style vented oil cap. Running in this config, I’ve never had a issue with oil loss (well other than “normal” ). Jim
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.