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About Tr4aJim

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  • Location
    Across the pond, New Jersey USA
  • Cars Owned:
    65 Tr4a (live axle)

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  1. RogerO, I believe the shop manual only shows the TR4 wiring, not the TR4A (the manual is a bit light on other 4A details as well). The Autowire diagram for the 4A does show the horn relay (see attached). FYI - The Autowire diagram has some errors unfortunately (i.e. the “flash to pass” lighting switch wiring is incorrect). I have attached a (crudely) hand drawn diagram of how my lighting switch is wired. Other 4A owners here in the US have confirmed the same findings. Jim
  2. Richard, Keith, thanks! I did notice that BPNW has a Tr6 Lucas horn relay for $39, and a “no-name” relay for $17. Past experience has taught me to avoid the cheap ones. FYI - With shipping, the $39 BPNW relay listed for the Tr4a is just a dollar cheaper than getting it from SVC. I looked up the Stanpart number on the TRF site, and they list two parts, one of which is NLS (see attached). Were different relays used based on which horns were installed? Moss US, does not have a horn relay listed. Jim
  3. John, with shipping it comes to 40£. So it’s about $48 to my door. cheers Jim
  4. Keith, Is this the correct relay? https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/product/6ra-relay/ Jim
  5. When I had the hydraulic brakes fail last year, the fly off allowed me to modulate the braking until I got it stopped, without worrying about accidentally locking them up. Jim
  6. Revington TR has a kit with all new parts, though a bit pricey: https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr4314pc-2k/name/lever-assy-non-fly-off Jim
  7. Giles, My 65 Tr4a oil pressure is similar when hot. I even checked the gauge to be sure it was telling the truth (it was). I run 20/50 in it. The car runs fine, good compression, doesn’t burn oil, plugs look good. No worrying noises from the engine. I was advised that while a rebuild probably awaits in the future, just drive it and enjoy it. Jim
  8. According to the Stanpart catalogue for the live axle Tr4a, the rear wheel stud part numbers are 100869 (steel wheel) and 110365 (wire wheel). Also the Revington TR site says the following regarding part 100869: This wheel stud which screws into the hub is used at the front of TR2-3 Drum brake cars fitted with steel wheels and at the rear of all TR2-4 (and TR4A fitted with a rigid axle) fitted with steel wheels. It is not uncommon for these studs to pull out of the hub, if this happens Revington TR are at the rescue with a repair procedure. Order part number RTR1385 or RTR1385+10 and oversize tap RTR1379. Full list of original applications: - Front; TR2-3 Drum brake cars Front; wire wheels. No studs; spline integral with the hub TR2-3 Drum brake cars Front; steel wheels. 100869 TR3 (Disc brake cars)-6 Front; wire wheels. 114281 TR3 (Disc brake cars)-6 Front; steel wheels. 114282 Rear; TR2-3 Lockheed axle; wire wheels. No studs; spline integral with the hub TR3 (Girling axle)-4 and TR4A rigid axle Rear; wire wheels. 110365 TR2-4 and TR4A rigid axle Rear; steel wheels. 100869 TR4A-6 independent suspension; wire wheels. 142799 TR4A-6 independent suspension; steel wheels. 132317 Please note that short studs intended for wire wheel applications should NEVER be used with steel wheels or aftermarket alloy wheels. ALWAYS use the longer studs. The steel wheel attachment nut is 109586
  9. My solid axle 4a has threaded studs in the rear (attached from outside to inside). The fronts are pressed in (attached from inside to outside). Jim
  10. Roger, I measured the pipe on my LHD Tr4a, (as best I could with the pipe bends) and it’s roughly 22 inches long (about 56 cm). I then have it connected to a braided hose to the slave cylinder. The total run fits fine, even with a lazy bend in the braided line. I bought both hoses from TRF. I hope the picture is clear enough to see there’s plenty of space around the oil filter, and you can just see the braided pipe fitting to the slave cylinder below. Jim
  11. Folks, sorry, I had intended to post the alignment results but it completely slipped my mind. Here are the results the alignment shop gave me. The first is with a 150lb person in the driver seat and the passenger seat empty. The second is with a 160lb person in the passenger seat as well (the shop owner said when he hires a tech, the first question he asks them is how much they weigh ). Afterwards I was very pleased with how the car handled. The steering felt a bit “lighter” than previous, and there was little to no bump steer, even over our winter ravaged roads. BTW - Regarding bump steer: Mick had sent me a procedure for checking bump steer, but it involves removing the springs. So I will attempt that once driving season is over. I also sent an email to Richard Brunning at Bad Obsession Motor Sports (Project Binky) regarding their procedure for checking bump steer (episode 11), but he said their procedure relied on the car being level. Oh, I run 165/80/15 tires. Cheers Jim
  12. I have a live axle Tr4a, so no IRS woes. However can a similar failure happen with the front stub axles/hubs? I don’t know the age of the ones on my car. Jim
  13. If I remember correctly, it is the wiring of the Tr4a “flash to pass” feature, that is shown incorrectly on the Autowire diagram for the Tr4a. Jim
  14. Ian, the 1/16 toe-in matches what the TR4a supplement says in the manual. Though John recommended zero toe-in, he did mention to err to toe-in. So maybe I’ll start with 1/16 toe-in and see how it tracks. Thanks Jim
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