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About Tr4aJim

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  • Location
    Across the pond, New Jersey USA
  • Cars Owned:
    65 Tr4a (live axle)

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678 profile views
  1. I mounted my belts a little differently. My car has MX5 seats and a roll-over bar. So I mounted the reel to the bottom/side of the wheel arch, passed the belt through a steel “loop” I added to the roll-over bar, then through a belt guide (I found on eBay) attached to the headrest. With this rig the belt comes over the top of your shoulder rather than resting on it. Jim
  2. +1 on Securon. I fitted them to my TR4A. Jim
  3. Pete, wasn’t a square nut fitted inside the fork bracket as stock on a TR4A? My live axle TR4A has them and I have to rotate the fork bracket to adjust it in/out. Jim
  4. Marco, I think I see maybe why my implementation of the lever extensions had a better result. My TR4A has a live axle. On my car the handbrake cable connects to the lever extension at almost 90 degrees (the pictures are not the best, but you get the idea). Jim
  5. Don’t I feel the fool (It’s 9 am here and I should never respond until I’ve had my 5th cup of coffee!). I misread Harry’s post thinking he was referring to the dash indicator warning light. I do still have the standard bulb in the ignition warning light. (sheepishly pushes keyboard away) Jim
  6. Hmmm, I have an alternator in my car, but haven’t noticed any charging issues. However except for traffic lights etc, I spend little time at low revs. What symptoms should I look for? Jim
  7. Bob, yeah I bought mine from Moss US about 3 years ago or so. I think I’ll order one from Classic Car LEDs as a spare. cheers, Jim
  8. I had a similar problem when I switched to LED indicators, and using the same flasher that Bob linked. Only my issue was the dash indicator filament bulb would continue to flash for about 10 seconds after turning off the indicators. I replaced the the flasher unit with this Flosser one. Then the warning light only flashed twice more after the indicators were turned off. I ran the car like that for awhile, until the problem was totally solved when I replaced the dash filament bulb with a small green LED I found in a local auto parts store. Now when I turn off the indicators, the dash light goes
  9. You should see the roads here in the US, especially here in the northeast. Between the harsh winters, and the never ending traffic (we have an epidemic of SUVs, as well as lots of trucks), our primary roads are pounded to dust. That’s why I keep to secondary or county roads whenever I take my TR out. Plus the scenery is nicer! Jim
  10. Jonesy, Here is a discussion I started a few years ago regarding the handbrake on my TR4A (which is less effective than the one on a TR4). Maybe you’ll find some useful info in it. I did install the handbrake lever extensions, and between them and careful adjustment of the rear brakes, the handbrake works much better. If fact, a few years ago it saved my wife and I when I had total hydraulic brake failure traveling at 80kph, approaching a red traffic light. I was able to use the handbrake to quickly slow/stop the car without lockup. As a side note, before the brake failure,
  11. Folks, I’ve toyed with the idea of fitting a servo to my TR4A. On the Moss US site, they list one type; a black unit with a white valve body. However the Moss UK site lists two types; Lockheed and “Aftermarket”. The Lockheed one has a cadmium like finish, while the “Aftermarket” looks the same as the one offered at Moss US. Anyone know the difference in these two units? Jim
  12. Thanks Peter. US cars use a blade type as well. Jim
  13. Yes, two fuses it is! ”Blue”, is that a solenoid with a built in fuse? I was looking at something like these: https://www.wiringproducts.com/bussmann-short-stop-circuit-breakers thanks, Jim
  14. Thanks Rob. Yeah the ratings for legacy vs modern fuses is confusing. Jim
  15. Folks, here is my new diagram based on the recommendations to use two solenoids. Please give it a once over for errors. I saw some suggestions to add fuses to each headlight lead, so I may do that as well. I can install a solenoid per headlight as some also suggested. I do have a question regarding the fuse on the main power line to the solenoids. Some diagrams I saw show a 20 amp fuse, while others had 30. Opinions on which to use? Thanks Jim
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