james christie

+1 Only man ever to have made me wet myself in my own car!! james

You’re quite right of course! I have no real excuse for not doing them all - but waiting for the remaining 6 to loosen themselves give me an excuse for not butchering them. My expensive drill bit is wrapped in oilcloth awaiting the next ones james

Rear Studs cont. Encouraged by Ian Cornish, Stuart and others, here is how I, a mere amateur, went about the job of replacing the screw in studs by the press-in version. First refer to the beginning of the thread to understand the problem. Once I got the two damaged screw-in studs out, I marvelled that so few threads hold our wheel rims to the hubs. If I was doing any kind of competition work, the change to press-in studs with their decent shoulder flanges would be one of the first mods I would do! It took a bit of courage to get stuck into enlarging out the hole

RobHMy apologies for having got your back up (again) I only relate my own experience james

Kevin, those studs have a chamfered shoulder whereas those I have just acquired are right angled. Make sure tha’ gets it right, preferably first time! james

I have to disagree with you RobH - I just went out to look at my 3A. I have Revington anti-sways/roll bars fore and aft. The front one is about 5mm above the radiator guard. The clearance in the chassis area where you are supposed to lift with a jack remains (?) at 156mm Whilst the result is not Lotus like, they seem to have substantially reduced roll and understeer james

For me the short answer to your question is that they look too short and yes they are the right nuts. What happened? For sure, if you don’t use spacers then the normal studs are too long and can interfere with the wire wheels. It looks to me that yours have been ultra shortened. I went in the reverse direction a year ago and changed my wires for minilites - I got p***d off with the cleaning after 25 years. When I had fitted them I hacked off the excess which meant that I had to change the 16 wheel studs for longer onesfor the Minilites. Easy enough on the front hubs whic

It can be a s*d to get out. The threads in the head will need cleaning out. The new one can be glued in with a modern form of Araldite placed on the threads. There was a thread on this a year or so ago. Goodluck! james

I think they all split there, Don. Like all of us they become less supple with age. The heat rising from the gearbox can’t help things either. james

I have owned my TR3A since March 1974 so 48 years. Prior to it I had a TR 2 bought in July 1969 james

Yet something else to explain to the MOT man! james

Sad to sell a car on behalf of the estate of someone who obviously looked after it and is no longer with us to enjoy it. I wish well you well. The RHD 3As are a rare species. And the price asked seems reasonable That said, if I may some observations on the sidescreen market. Here in France we have an internet market place « Le Bon Coin » ( leboncoin.fr) where at any time,there are around 50 sidescreen cars offered. Not all of them in France, many in Holland or more frequently America. Some good looking, some much the worse for wear. Some for sale by individuals (rare) most by professional

Tappet en français = culbuteur - I am aware it can mean something else! Eli, don’t have blind confidence in the Haynes manual, although that drawing looks lifted from the Triumph manual. On occasion, their text leaves much to be desired! james

We was all lunatics, Ian My old TR2 TS6884 had drum brakes alround, only the front ones worked as there was permanent seepage from the Lockheed axle onto the rear shoes. Didn't stop me from thrashing up and down the road in the late sixties between Aberdeen and High Wycombe where my parents lived. Oh the nonchalance of youth!! james

Ok many thanks. Now I just have to be patient till I receive them once they’ve gone through the Brexit customs mill. james