Jump to content

james christie

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

About james christie

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
  • ICQ

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    TR2 TS6884 bought 1970 sold 1973. TR3A 1960 owned since 1974.
    BMW 320D touring. Polo (hers)

Recent Profile Visitors

821 profile views
  1. +1 But the rubber goes hard after time and has to be replaced.... james
  2. The flitch plates on my 3A are in aluminium and although they don’t get a lot of punishment would be easily replaced if damaged - I have stored a template somewhere..... james
  3. Hi Eli, you’ve got an interesting plate there with an L suffix, yet your car is RHD! My 3A is t’other way round as it was RHD (relatively rare compared to the quantity of LHD cars manufactured) until I converted it to a left hooker some 30 years ago. james ps I think you have been courageous thrashing about in the Normandie rain with 10 yr old tyres, no wonder you did a pirhouette. I did the same many years ago with ageing Michelin ZXs. I change them every six years now..... james
  4. Worth changing the bushes while you’re in there - it’s an easy job. james
  5. +1 The true TR man’s solution for over 60 years - why change? james
  6. I’d be a bit wary of using unused old stock rubber parts, even for purposes of authenticity. Rubber has a limited shelf life, whether its hoses or tyres james
  7. I believe these folk are the only ones who are willing to supply the gaiter only and don’t oblige you to buy the plunger (and in some case the whole solenoid) Why can’t our favourite TR parts suppliers do the same? After all, at least in my experience, it’s the gaiter that wears not the plunger. james
  8. I am not a time served fitter or mechanic, but I was always told to never use an olive twice I think a lot of sealing problems come from the confusion between imperial and metric measurements, in particular around the 1/4 in. and 5/16in. These are 6,35mm and 7,93mm and all too easily are replaced by 6mm and 8mm, in one way or another, ‘cos ‘’that will be about right’’ james
  9. I stopped using Millers 20/50 Oils when they upped the price to greater heights than I was willing to pay - I used to buy it when on visits to UK, but that has stopped now of course. At 35€ for 5 litres they have become reasonable again, but wait until you get delivery costs included... I have tried to use French oils said to be adapted to older engine use but my efforts have been negated by their refusal to communicate the zddp contents. james
  10. +1 The Roadster Factory is an excellent outfit to deal with, and -as an exception to most US suppliers - they know that a world exists outside the US james
  11. I did this about four years ago and so the details of the operation have already faded into the mists of time. The height through which the engine has to be lifted is of course more than you expected so get it as high as you can. Jack up the sump at the front using a hefty piece of wood to spread the load around a bit. Removal of the old mountings is fairly easy. They may even fall out once loosened! You’ll need octopus fingers and some ingenuity to get the fasteners and washers back into place *OK for disconnecting various water hoses *No need to remove clutch hoses
  12. Not sure I’d want a vaccine to be injected into me at -70°C, I’d probably feel over refrigerated.....
  13. I’d blame it all on the French, Marchal, Cibié et alia james
  14. Then I was stitched up - P. Wigglesworth sold me a pair of brand new HS6s for £20 at about the same time! james ps and a WSM for £1
  15. Not to mention handbrake turns in the wet or snow james
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.