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paul bond

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About paul bond

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  1. Yes ,I live in Acton Bridge near Northwich CW82RF  34 Milton Rough ,My mobile number is 07774620371

  2. Small print states- Historic vehicles exempt "For at least the first year"?? Paul
  3. Hi Paul ,I dont know its value, I'll call TR Bitz tomorrow for an idea.

    Cheers Gordon

  4. Hi Keith. Thanks for your further input and measurements. Today I found the problem. Which was the flange on the hardtop where the headlining material folds over, seen at the right hanwd side of your second photo above. The rear end of this flange was fouling the furlex/rubber seal. I removed about 6mm from the end of the flange and reglued the headlining material. This allowed the top to seat on the backlight. I have added a 3mm thick soft rubber packer around each stud and in the centre of the hardtop as per you photo. Thanks again. Paul
  5. Keith. The "Original TR " books shows the furlex seal with the rubber seal continuing across the top of the backlight. this is how the seal was supplied by (I think) Moss. It then struck me that maybe the seal which remains on the rear of the roof, shouldnt be there, however this is also shown on the parts list ! I will try it without the roof fitted seal and then with a length of furlex without the rubber. As would be expected there has needed ro be a bit of fettling to get this far, not mentioning the fun in replacing the glass after repainting the backlight !! Thanks for your comments, much appreciated. Paul
  6. Thanks to you both for your replies. Tom,The second photo showing the seal, without the rubber would probably solve the problem. Thanks. Paul.
  7. Hi Keith. Thanks for reply. The seal is the continuation of the door seals, running from A post, over the backlight arch (B post) and back on the other side.This is preventing the rear of the top from seating. Paul
  8. My winter project has included fitting a surrey top to my 5. At each stage of refitting the backlight, I have ensured the hardtop (alloy) fits correctly. The first query is, The rear of the roof, where it mates wwith the backlight, has 3 "raised" areas, two corresponding to the rear fixing bolt areas, and one in the centre.When the top is bolted down, should these areas be in contact with the top of the backlight arch, or held apart by the seals? With the rear sealing strip, (the one attached to the top) in place, the rear of the roof fits correctly, however with the seal which runs from the A posts up over the backlight, in place, the top fouls the seal at the outer edges of the roof, preventing it pulling down into place.. Not wanting to modify the seal, has anyone hard this issue? Thanks Paul.
  9. END OF UK MOTORSPORT? There is now a European consultation open until 20th Oct for interested parties to respond to. The MSA and MIA strongly encourages motor sport competitors (and supporters) to respond. Just google MIA Vnuk consultation.
  10. Thanks all. Information and tips much appreciated. Paul
  11. Roger, Mick Thanks for additional info. I have a Bridgeport milling machine in the workshop, however the trailing arms are an awkward shape to set up to machine, so as you note Mick, I will need to ensure the jig I use, supports the drill correctly. On your comments,Roger, re strength of Hellicoils.Whilst not in alloy, I was interested in the strength of helicoils for cylinder head studs. The reason was, I fitted ARP studs who gave a torque setting of 80 ft,lbs somewhat, greater than standard, plus this torque setting is with their moly lubricant, which will increase the tensile load on the stud significantly and hence thread in the block. I tapped a block of mild steel stock with a standard 7/16 UNF thread and a 7/16 UNF Helicoil Using some original studs and nuts with a hardened washers under the nuts, I replicated the thickness ofthe head. With a liberal coating of ARP lubricant the studs were torqued up in stages to 80 ft,lbs on dismantling there was no sign of problems. The studs were re lubricated and taken to 110 ft, lbs again no problems on dismantling. As the torque wrench I was using only went to 110. I used a socket extension and applied a further 180 degees to the nuts, at this stage there were signs that the studs were stretching. A further 180 degrees was needed to cause failure. Both studs failed just under the nuts with a typical "cup and cone"tensile failure. Both the threaded holes showed no damage with the broken studs being able to be removed by hand Whilst the mild steel is not the same as the cast iron of the head, I think it demonstrates the strength of helicoils. Paul
  12. Roger. Thanks for the kind offer. It will probably be a protracted period before I get to do both sides, so making a jig will be more convenient. I will probably go for UNF helicoils, although in theory UNC should be more appropriate for alloy. The option of larger theads or Keenserts is probably not appropriate given the amount of material surrounding these studs.Having used Helicoils and Timeserts in the past, l have found Helicoils as strong if not stronger than Timeserts and much simpler to install. I was not impressed with the quality of some replacement studs available. do you know of a source of decent quality items? Paul
  13. Hi All Planning ahead to some winter maintenance, I am going to machine a jig to drill and tap for helicoils in the trailing arm, to hub flange. I have seen the figure of 4.25" quoted for the pitch circle diameter, PCD. of the 6 studs. Can anyone confirm this figure? Thanks. Paul Bond
  14. Thanks All Advice and information much appreciated. I have gone for a set of genuine type MA Minilites. Tyre wise, XAS Michelins are tempting but they are only tubed type.I was contemplating not carrying a spare only a "sealant can" I know I shouldnt write this, but I havent had a puncture for probably 15+ years and 250k+ miles. Many of the miles in 911s where the punctured tyre would not fit into the spacesaver tyre space and needed to be carried inside of the car, with the passenger!! Or a Lotus Elise with no spare. Most new cars in the showrooms now dont have spares,even spacesavers,as standard. Isnt part of the pleasure of our hobby, these major decisions?? Paul
  15. Hi Guys. Thanks for welcome and info. Although I have just found a TR, I have been reading the forum with interest for some time. Of all the car club forums, this must be one of the most useful. Thanks Paul
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