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paul bond

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About paul bond

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  1. NTC. I dont want to name supplier on this forum.However I shalll not be using them in the future due to their respons to this. Waldi. All the guides were from the same supplier, no problem with the guides or valve stems. The wear on the stem tips and rockers of only the inlets was the issue.. Z320.The springs were also from this supplier.chosen to give sensible spring rate. the cam was from Piper with lift simlar to standard 150 cam . Thanks for all your comments. Paul
  2. When I stripped the head to replace the inlets all the valve stem to guides seemed fine. in fact the only problem was with the inlet valve to rocker pad wear. I took the oppertunity to check the condition of the (new) cam followers and was pleased to see they were bedding in and showed signs of them rotating. Ther seems to be plenty of lubrication for everything else, but the inlet valves? P
  3. Thanks all, for replies. Tim. Supplier "Never had any problems with these valves" !!! Mick. minimum off head to clean up. nil off block. cr checked, close to standard. (this was reason for swapping head) I am not a fan of spacers under rockers, probably would have used shortened pushrods if neccesary Piper cam,same lift inlet & exhaust. rocker orientation checked. spring clearances checked at full lift,etc etc ???? NTC. Yes bronze guides, by supplier of damaged valves. Peter. oil Valvoline VR1. 20,50 Thanks Paul
  4. Anyone had a similar problem as shown below? Replaced a fully rebuilt 6 cyl head all new valves guides rockers etc onto rebuilt block. After approx 1000 miles following rebuild, (just after 2nd lockdown) on removing rocker cover to check tappet clearances, found brown "greasy" deposits on some rocker / valve stem areas. On removing rocker assembly all the inlet valve stems and rocker arm pads were showing signs of damage / wear. and were coated with the deposits. Whilst none of the exhausts showed any signs of wear, as would be expected at this mileage. The deposits appeared to be we
  5. Mick. The standard pushrods I have used are 1/4 inch diameter and solid. (just to check I have just hacksawed an old one) The rocker geometry of the pattern rockers I have previously obtained is not as the original Stanpart ones I have. The rocker ratio is slightly greater on the pattern copies (this can be seen from comparing the distance from the push rod connection to the rocker centreline) also the offset of the arms is different. The cam followers in the block seem to be set at a nominal 2" centres. With the standard rocker set up the Stanpart rocker pushrod adjusters are spaced
  6. I have used tubular pushrods on 6 cylinder engines . Probably not a "performance enhancer" on our engines with their rev range .they are usually recommended for their stiffness in high revving uses. However if they are to be used with the current crop of newly supplied rockers, Beware. due to their different geometry compared with original Stanpart items, the larger diameter of the tubular pushrods may come into contact with the head casting. Best to check closely. P
  7. Hi Has anyone had any experience in using Stainless steel inlet and exhaust valves, in the 6 cylinder engines? Paul
  8. Has anyone attempted to "dismantle" an original gear lever with the rubber "metalastic " bush within the main body of the assembly? I have a lever which I intended to repair the machined groove, in the spherical part of the lever with some weld and then re machine. The problem was how to prevent damage to the rubber vibration damper inside the assembly.On looking at the lever, more closely, it is quite an interesting item. The main lever arm is joined , (how I have not yet sussed) to the inner part of a metalastic bush. the outer of this bush is then pressed into the main body of th
  9. Red 6 and all others who gave advice. Thanks. I replaced the engine/ gearbox this morning, with all the ancillaries in place,manifolds starter etc. went in fine with room to spare. I moved the rack forward and then took out the steering shaft, which gave more access to the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange. Engine mounts were also fitted, but loose to make it easier to line up. One of the main things which made it easy was the use of a load leveller on the crane, beiing able to alter the angle of the load precisely as it was lowered, simplified the job greatly. The other thin
  10. Roger, John, NTC and Waldi. thanks for reply. I will try it with everything attached. The engine crane I have is a 2 tonne one and I have a load leveller. so should be able to get it done, in the next 3 weeks !!! Cheers Paul B
  11. Hi All. I am in the final stages of an engine rebuild of the 5. I removed the engine and gearbox separately, (because I was still awaiting delivery of a new engine crane when I started the work) but it looks simpler to replace the engine and gearbox as one unit. The question is - Is it possible to replace the engine/ gearbox, with the inlet and exhaust manifolds in place? the reason for this is I have a Prestige throttle linkage ,which I have further modified, which would be much easier to set up with the engine on an engine stand, than in place.in the car. It looks as if by rem
  12. Roger Thanks . the original one was steel, not brass Very likely mild steel ! I have drilled the cross shaft for an extra pin and lapped the taper pin into the shaft for a better grip. Paul
  13. Some time ago I obtained a new gear lever, specified for a TR5. Now I have compared the new, (bottom one in photo) to the original one (top) there is a significant difference. I cannot reconcile these with the dimensions on the Revington site, which identifies the variations. the length of the shorter one is 260mm overall and the longer one 300mm overall. can someone advise which is correct for a TR5? Secondly. I have the engine /box out at the moment and checking the clutch bearing carrier there is wear in the carrier from the fork pins and wear in the pins themselves,. This i
  14. Yes ,I live in Acton Bridge near Northwich CW82RF  34 Milton Rough ,My mobile number is 07774620371

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