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paul bond

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  1. Has anyone attempted to "dismantle" an original gear lever with the rubber "metalastic " bush within the main body of the assembly? I have a lever which I intended to repair the machined groove, in the spherical part of the lever with some weld and then re machine. The problem was how to prevent damage to the rubber vibration damper inside the assembly.On looking at the lever, more closely, it is quite an interesting item. The main lever arm is joined , (how I have not yet sussed) to the inner part of a metalastic bush. the outer of this bush is then pressed into the main body of th
  2. Red 6 and all others who gave advice. Thanks. I replaced the engine/ gearbox this morning, with all the ancillaries in place,manifolds starter etc. went in fine with room to spare. I moved the rack forward and then took out the steering shaft, which gave more access to the exhaust manifold to downpipe flange. Engine mounts were also fitted, but loose to make it easier to line up. One of the main things which made it easy was the use of a load leveller on the crane, beiing able to alter the angle of the load precisely as it was lowered, simplified the job greatly. The other thin
  3. Roger, John, NTC and Waldi. thanks for reply. I will try it with everything attached. The engine crane I have is a 2 tonne one and I have a load leveller. so should be able to get it done, in the next 3 weeks !!! Cheers Paul B
  4. Hi All. I am in the final stages of an engine rebuild of the 5. I removed the engine and gearbox separately, (because I was still awaiting delivery of a new engine crane when I started the work) but it looks simpler to replace the engine and gearbox as one unit. The question is - Is it possible to replace the engine/ gearbox, with the inlet and exhaust manifolds in place? the reason for this is I have a Prestige throttle linkage ,which I have further modified, which would be much easier to set up with the engine on an engine stand, than in place.in the car. It looks as if by rem
  5. Roger Thanks . the original one was steel, not brass Very likely mild steel ! I have drilled the cross shaft for an extra pin and lapped the taper pin into the shaft for a better grip. Paul
  6. Some time ago I obtained a new gear lever, specified for a TR5. Now I have compared the new, (bottom one in photo) to the original one (top) there is a significant difference. I cannot reconcile these with the dimensions on the Revington site, which identifies the variations. the length of the shorter one is 260mm overall and the longer one 300mm overall. can someone advise which is correct for a TR5? Secondly. I have the engine /box out at the moment and checking the clutch bearing carrier there is wear in the carrier from the fork pins and wear in the pins themselves,. This i
  7. Yes ,I live in Acton Bridge near Northwich CW82RF  34 Milton Rough ,My mobile number is 07774620371

  8. Small print states- Historic vehicles exempt "For at least the first year"?? Paul
  9. Hi Paul ,I dont know its value, I'll call TR Bitz tomorrow for an idea.

    Cheers Gordon

  10. Hi Keith. Thanks for your further input and measurements. Today I found the problem. Which was the flange on the hardtop where the headlining material folds over, seen at the right hanwd side of your second photo above. The rear end of this flange was fouling the furlex/rubber seal. I removed about 6mm from the end of the flange and reglued the headlining material. This allowed the top to seat on the backlight. I have added a 3mm thick soft rubber packer around each stud and in the centre of the hardtop as per you photo. Thanks again. Paul
  11. Keith. The "Original TR " books shows the furlex seal with the rubber seal continuing across the top of the backlight. this is how the seal was supplied by (I think) Moss. It then struck me that maybe the seal which remains on the rear of the roof, shouldnt be there, however this is also shown on the parts list ! I will try it without the roof fitted seal and then with a length of furlex without the rubber. As would be expected there has needed ro be a bit of fettling to get this far, not mentioning the fun in replacing the glass after repainting the backlight !! Thanks fo
  12. Thanks to you both for your replies. Tom,The second photo showing the seal, without the rubber would probably solve the problem. Thanks. Paul.
  13. Hi Keith. Thanks for reply. The seal is the continuation of the door seals, running from A post, over the backlight arch (B post) and back on the other side.This is preventing the rear of the top from seating. Paul
  14. My winter project has included fitting a surrey top to my 5. At each stage of refitting the backlight, I have ensured the hardtop (alloy) fits correctly. The first query is, The rear of the roof, where it mates wwith the backlight, has 3 "raised" areas, two corresponding to the rear fixing bolt areas, and one in the centre.When the top is bolted down, should these areas be in contact with the top of the backlight arch, or held apart by the seals? With the rear sealing strip, (the one attached to the top) in place, the rear of the roof fits correctly, however with the seal which run
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