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Waldi last won the day on November 23 2019

Waldi had the most liked content!

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About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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  1. Hi Marcel, I’m not convinced this change alone will bring much difference. I swapped from Strombergs to SU’s on my previous TR6, no change. If mixture is ok and there are not restricting (improving) flow, where would the improvement come from? Off course, Mikunis can be more refined, but more can be gained with increasing CR, and a different cam. At less cost. Groeten, Waldi
  2. I fitted the outer ones recently, not easy but do-able. I did carefully grind off some metal so this has a little clearance in the door opening. The rubber top part I kept a bit longer so there is a 2-3 mm “overlap”. Yesterday I tried fitting the inner one, I lost and ruined one. The most rear clamp was the issue, the door flange was not flat enough close to the rear end of the opening. I had to shorten this one a bit too, carefully with a grinder. Trial fit first so you can see which side can best be shortened so the seal- and door contour line up. Think it was Roger H who recommended fitting the clips of the inner seal in the door first, and then press the seal into the clip. Good tip, that part worked. Note the inner and outer seals have different clips. Cheers, Waldi
  3. Waldi

    PI Injectors

    Colin, I made a note in my wsm. Think this info came from this forum: Viton Grade B (not A), 75 Sh hardness. OD: 5/16” (7,94 mm) ID: 3/16” (4,76 mm) Thickness: 1/16” (1,59 mm) On these small diameters a tenth of a mm can be a lot, especially on thickness. As said, liberally lubricate. I think Neil Ferguson charges less, he did mine, Excellent quality and this was one of those happy experiences during my TR restoration. Cheers, Waldi
  4. Not overly complicated once the components are made, and in combination with Lambda sensor a nice way to fine tune (part of) the mixture during driving. Nice piece of engineering. Waldi
  5. Excellent result Nigel, enjoy driving. Cheers, Waldi
  6. Stephen, I do not have a RHD car, but would it be possible to use a socket on a long extension , one person giving directions how to move with the endoscope, the other pushing the extension up from below the car to undo the 2 bolts of the lock to bonnet? I know, a long shot, literally. Waldi Addition: On a lhd car I would probably drill a 20 mm hole in the body from the driver side foot well just below the lock to insert a socket on an extension. Not sure if that makes sense on a rhd car.
  7. Waldi

    Oil leak again

    Hi Dave, if I recall correct, the inner flat rubber ring is compressed by a spring, so “floating” and does not much affect compression of the outer ring in the block. Or am I wrong here? Cheers, Waldi
  8. Waldi

    Oil leak again

    The gasket (“flange”) design relies on one single bolt for. Relative large crossectional area. And the soft rubber gasket can easily deform when not compressed enough. When I started my engine after a rebuilt...it leaked in that area too. I had not tightened the bolt enough, because the copper gasket ring under the bolt head does not need much load to seal. The much larger O-ring does need quite a bit more load (bolt force) to achieve what engineers call sufficient gasket seating stress. So like Miike, I torqued the bolt more, and now it it ok. Waldi
  9. I did as above. Most appeared to be in good condition but I found the corrosion was very localised. Glad I removed all of it and then had it grit blasted and primed. Makes work on the car so much easier. Waldi
  10. I would remove the MU to properly replace the 2 rear hoses (#2 and 5). Make sure no pieces of O-ribg are left behind. You will need new O-rings for the hose fittings to MU, but also A large O-ring between MU to pedestal. Make sure they are Viton. Same applies for the pedestal lip seals; were the ones you fitted viton? I got mine from Neil Ferguson, as part of my MU overhaul. This ensues you get the correct hardness too. And he can crimp new nylon tubes on your exiting fittings. Highly recommended. Waldi
  11. I would check for proper lubrication of tappets, valves, rockers and fluid movement of the tappets. If all ok assemble and let it run with valve cover off so you can see how it behaves. Then check clearances again and hope all remains ok. Waldi
  12. My outer seals from Moss are floppy too, I hope they harden a bit over time. Waldi
  13. Waldi

    Dead Ignition.

    It could be that the (thick) wires attached to the column have shorted to earth. Waldi
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