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Waldi last won the day on January 20

Waldi had the most liked content!

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About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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564 profile views
  1. Mark, I cleaned my TB’s (I did read it is not recommended too, but did not like the sooty inlets. I have no issues with idle, can stall the engine with the idle air screw. I did not use the 2 thou method on my CP bodies, they are fully shut, and the 3 little screws are loose. when idle, the 3 ball linkages should be “free”, so not under stress, are they? Waldi
  2. Hi Steve, yes, there is a gasket. most likely source of oil is the rocker cover (if it is oil leakage). Burning oil will give blue smoke, not black, and smell different from unburnt fuel, which is black. clean the engine thoroughly, this makes detection of leaks easier. have you checked the 6 butter flies when idling with a flow meter? This will reveal if they are all closed. You should see low and more or less the same readings. Can you turn the rubber connecting tubes easy, i.e.are they loose? This would give air leakage. Good luck, you will find it. Waldi
  3. Or send it back and ask for a proper one!
  4. I have the small 90 degr. (angle) flexible. It requires special drills with a hex adapter, but works ok for small diameter and not to deep holes. Like this:
  5. Hi Steve, You should be able to see/feel the gasket as it is quitte thick. If there is one, first retighten the nuts holding the TB’s and exhaust manifold, both below and above the TB’s. If you retard ignition, the revs will go up at idle, that is my experience too. Have you checked for leakages from the usual places? Rubber tubes between TB’s, brake servo, MU hose? Are you sure all 3 TB’s are really fully closed when throttle is “loose”? Opening the air idle valve will increase RPM. Regards, Waldi
  6. Very good result John. Waldi
  7. Desr Nigel, welcome to this great forum. Additionally to the above: make sure you have thick and hard rings under the bolts, otherwise the soft alu body is damaged. Waldi
  8. Keep up with your nice engineering Marco. it could well be that the old clutch design (B&B) required a longer travel because of the higher friction losses in shaft, levers etc. Waldi
  9. Hi Marco, that’s a good idea. Do you know if the seals in the new hydraulic clutch are compatible with mineral oil? I would expect so, but better to know for sure. If not, the leaking oil may soften the seals, as there will always be some gear box oil (even mist) reach the seal faces. Waldi
  10. Hi Mark, I paid 50 euro’s for a steeringwheel with boss, but without donut. Rubber is in good condition (and not loose). I have a spare dizzy but not PI, paid less than 50 euro for that, no cap, no points but otherwise ok. Waldi
  11. Hi John, ”good” to hear you have the same sympthom; if the clonk does not occur when you hear the rubbing of the tires, it is likely not related. Maybe you can visit a garage where they have these pneumtic driven boards/plates; you place the frontwheels on them and then move the plates, it will show any clearance in your suspension or frame-crack. Waldi
  12. Waldi

    Pi set up

    Hi Ian, I thought the same, and lubed the cams and followers with graphogen and cam-lube, for belts and braces. It took a while before my engine run, so was glad I did this, since all that time, no or limited oil reaches the cam/followers. I followed the 2000rpm /20 minutes recommendation. During this time I checked for leaks, temperature, pressure and ign timing, so they flew by. I will never know if this was needed, but cannot see why it would hurt, and the higher rev provides better lubrication on this critical area of our engine. The stories on this forum about failed cams is a clear indication we need to do all we can to reduce this risk. in short: I would do it again. Waldi
  13. Waldi

    Pi set up

    Hi Mark, that’s an exciting feeling right? make sure you keep it around 2000 rpm for 20 mins or so as recommended by Mick and others, that’s what I did at least. Waldi
  14. My car “jumps” when in full steer with low speed. I contribute that to my tires, they are old and hard, and steering geometry is not at best at this position. It did it before I dismantled the car, and still does it after the major rebuild. I can feel this in my steering wheel. Hope (expect) this will get better once the new tyres are installed. is yours similar? Waldi
  15. The smell of succes Colin:) be carefull when driving it the first couple of hundred miles though (I will). cheers, Waldi
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