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Waldi last won the day on July 17

Waldi had the most liked content!

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About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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  1. Opinions vary. When I removed my underseal, 95% of the area was in perfect condition. Some corners/edges had minor to severe corrosion. Removal Y/N depends largely on what you are aiming for. Full restoration: remove all of it, and that’s what I did, followed by blasting, painting etc. But if it looks ok, and only sumner drives are the purpose, you could reduce to limited area’s, like corners. Or simply apply wax oil or similar in damaged area’s as Dave above suggests. But be carefull, once you remove say the wings for underseal removal, before you know, you have started a full resto, even if not planned;) Waldi
  2. Current bid 420 pound and ending in less than 2 hrs. Waldi
  3. Aha, thanks Andrew, now I understand, thought I did something wrong. Cheers, Waldi
  4. Trial-fitted my rear bumper. surprise: it fitted straight away. Waldi
  5. Sorry Andrew, I do not understand. Cheers, Waldi
  6. Impossible. (Glad I’m not). Waldi
  7. Mick, you hit the nail on the head for me. There is no such thing as “good” or “bad” pads, selection of materials for your intended use is important. I have installed Green Stuff per previous recommendations on this forum, now I’m not so sure the fit with my intended use (road use mainly, not much more exiting that with my daily driver). Additionally I did read the EBC info on their site, and thought it would be ok for me, so ordered from TR shop. Just to be clear: no finger-pointing intended, but it looks like Green stuff may not be the best suitable for me. I do not know how they perform yet, as I have not driven the car yet, we will see. Regards, Waldi
  8. Hi Billy, Mine were recovered in Italian leather, I was told. But I would not be able to tell the difference between the various types. Cheers, Waldi
  9. If so I apologise and I must have had a senior moment.... Regards, Waldi
  10. Worth an article in TRaction! But that is easy said, if you do not have to write that yourselves. Waldi
  11. Hi Alan, your write ups are highly appreciated by me, it makes jobs otherwise perceived impossible worth a go. Many thanks, Waldi
  12. Very nice Hamish, and good to see Timken bearings are supplied instead of unknown items. When the alloy (“aluminium”) hubs warm up, the bearing clearances reduce, more than with a steel hub. So do not set them too tight. I assume there is a recommended clearance in the installation instruction? Especially important because with your competition drives the hubs will get hotter than an average tr6 hub, as heat is conducted from the hot disks to the hubs. Maybe good to check wheel bearing clearance and hub temperature after the first “hot ride”. Also do not overfill the hubs with grease, but liberal grease to the bearings is good. Oh, and you cannot measure the temperature with a standard IR temperature gun due to the low emissivity of new “shiny” aluminium. If you would paint a large enough area black (or any other dark color) you could use an IR gun. Best regards, Waldi
  13. Waldi

    Cold air intake

    The heat radiation “breaker” that Ed has installed will certainly help to reduce risk of vapor lock when the engine was stopped when hot and then re-started after some time, a known issue for classic cars. Ed’s masterpiece keeps inspiring me and probably many others. Wish I could match or even come close to your skills. Best regards, Waldi
  14. Waldi

    Cold air intake

    The temperature increase should be regarded in Kelvin, 15 degrees increase from lets say 25C ambient to 40 degr.C inlet temperature as a result of heating up in the plenum/throttle bodies would be 14% increase (on the Kelvin scale) in temperature, so also about that % loss in mass flow (not exactly the same since other parameters change too). If mass flow would correspond to performance, it is significant. Waldi PS: The true answer will come from Peter C.
  15. Chris, my tap (tr6) was serviceable, so I cleaned it, oiled it, and installed it back. But if it would not, I would have replaced by a simple brass drain plug, no hesitation. How often do you open it, and when you do for like flushing, you will have to remove it for better flow, less plugging. So of limited value to have a tap, I feel. Also, if the brass tap lever is hit, either during maintenance work or something while driving, the engine would drain it’s coolant. Whatever you decide, make sure to clean the thread in the engine, because there may (will) be corrosion, preventing the new tap or plug to be screwed in properly. Do a dry fit first, it should screw in by hand easily. Regards, Waldi
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