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Waldi last won the day on November 23 2019

Waldi had the most liked content!

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About Waldi

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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  1. Using good thick or even better, hardened washers on connections where the bolts are tightened to a high torque (read: bolt stress) is sound engineering practice. If you don’t use these washers, the bolt and nut will damage the surfaces (smear out). The result is a wide spread in bolt stress. This is why there are hardened washers under the cilinderhead studs. Waldi
  2. Waldi

    Knock knock

    I have the filter adapter and installed a large K&N filter, type HP-2009, which has an anti-drain valve, see picture of the box. The price difference between a good filter and a cheap filter is too little to even consider el-cheapo’s. Waldi
  3. Waldi

    Knock knock

    This valve prevents oil draining back from the gallery due to its elevated location. Waldi
  4. That looks like a nice project Paul! Enjoy it, every bit of it. Waldi
  5. I would remove the entire heater box, this also allows you to clean and inspect the rest, including new hoses, new foam “seal” around the flap, lube the cables and a flush of the matrix. Waldi
  6. Hi Marco, keep them coming. Cheers, Waldi
  7. This may help: https://www.mg-cars.org.uk/mgtd/files/SU_Fuel_Pumps_101.pdf Looks like a single low pressure SU pump can just deliver that, but a double pump (one body) certainly can. Waldi
  8. I’ve had an XK140, but with an original 3.8S engine from a 150S. So I installed 2 new SU fuel pumps in parallel (tickerdetick) to feed the 3 2” SU HD8 carbs. In Germany I drove 220km/hr on a quit stretch of the Autobahn for quite some time on our return from a rally in France (tourist class), and with no fuel starvation (I did not run flat-out). I thought I needed the 2 pumps for that. But later on, I found one of the pumps was not working, contact point issue, so I have probably run on one pump all the time. If you do the math, and say you use 1 liter/4 km at full throttle and do 220 km/hr, you need 55 liter/ hr, so just under 1 liter/minute. Waldi
  9. Hi Marco, I did not follow this thread in detail, but when I saw this picture it looks like you are working on one of your nice creations again:) A couple of thoughts: Galvanising will add a bit material on the shaft and in the bore, so you will have to measure tolerances and machine before pressing together. For a good press fit, I would prefer the base steel anyway, as the zinc is very soft. I hope you can limit run-out to say less than 0.05 mm, since rotor assemblies (the core) are best made from one single piece. Gruesse, Waldi
  10. Thanks for sharing the link Hamish, what a nice tool! The person who built it deserves credit, especially for sharing it with others. Waldi
  11. Waldi

    TR GT

    Thank Markus, that’s a Beautiful Grand Tourer! Waldi
  12. Waldi

    Stuttering TR6

    Sjef, To check the fuel pump, disconnect the feed to the carbs and crank the engine. use a jar, the fuel should flow out in nice blurbs. Be careful with petrol, sparks, hot engine parts. Best done with ignition off (feed wire off the coil). Do you have nice blue sparks by the way? Waldi
  13. Waldi

    Stuttering TR6

    Welcome to this forum Sjef. Have you checked the condition of the points and condensor and rotor? I that’s all ok, also check timing, both at idle and see if it properly advances. Waldi
  14. Hi Bill, a TR takes you to places you didn’t know they exist:) Cheers, Waldi
  15. Hi Paul, try to modify a ring spanner by cutting and welding, so you can hold the nut. A 2nd person might reach it from “down under”. Waldi
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