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Waldi

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About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

Recent Profile Visitors

1,960 profile views
  1. I speak to several AU colleagues, their isolation from the rest of the world is very good. Who has quarantaine hotels in EU? And off course, summer time helps but they had low numbers earlier on too. Meanwhile, for the very rare occasion we go to a shop, I ordered some FFP3 masks, 3M 1863 (without the valve). Waldi
  2. David, The rivet tool should have a small tip that fits inside the edge of the clip. Some tools (mine does) have a couple of tips with different diameters. Waldi
  3. Hi Mick, I have a similar set-up. My house was built in 1975, at which time insulation requirements were minimal (50 mm rock wool in walls and roof for example). Over the years I was able to reduce our monthly bill to less than 150 euro, that is for natural gas and electricity. Some improvements bring a large financial return (based on DIY work) others less so. But comfort increases, which gets more important as we get a bit older. The Ubakus tool can help you prioritise what to do first. Cheers, Waldi
  4. Hi Richard, the rivet tool is not critical for this job, only drilling is. Waldi
  5. Waldi

    Hardtop

    Thanks JPMF and Chris, I will attempt to make a set. Welded seems the easiest for a dyi person, I have no torch but can do welding. Cheers, Waldi
  6. Waldi

    Hardtop

    I plan to make the side fittings which are attached to the car myself; has anybody done so? Looks like they are made from solid bar or thick-wall tube with the step (offset) forged? Thanks, Waldi
  7. That looks good Mick. If you can operate with 32 C water you must have a well insulated house. I tested how far I could reduce, but still need 60 C at the moment, largely due to insufficient capacity of radiator/UFH. My UFH was meant as “additional” with the hoses at a pitch of 200-250 mm. 100 mm is specified here if used as main heating source. And not the entire living is fitted with UFH (yet). So I have an additional Jaga convector with 6 quit fans that kick in once water temperature is above 45C. My energy bill is low already, so not much financial gain in spending more on this.
  8. Peter, Brick, stone, has a very low resistance, and even massive wood is low, compared to insulation materials. I use a simple program (and free), to make heat loss calcs, it also includes dew point calcs. For those interested, follow the tutorial first: https://www.ubakus.com/nl/rc-waarde-calculator/ Wether the near-by stream works better depends on the average temperature of it, compared to the avg. outside air temperature. The Rhesol I referred to is a vacuum type PIR, with extremely low conductivity: Lambda 0,007 W/(m.K). 25 mm will pride an Rd of 3,55!
  9. Hi Peter and Richard, yes, I means the systems with tubes embedded in a 20 or 25 mm thick layer of dense EPS. For proper reduction of heat loss to the soil below (if you have no basement where you can install insulation like I did), thicker is better, Peter, there are Rhesol plates with very good heat resistance, better than EPS, that can be installed below the slitted (pre-formed) sheets for the tubes. Tube size 16x2 mm will result in a thickness of 25 mm. Thinner diameter tubes will add 20 mm only. My basement temperature dropped from 27 to 15 C when I applied insulation there
  10. Situation overhere in our little country to give some perspective: Several interest groups (GP’s, hospital staff, teachers, ...) all want to be priority in the schedule. We started dabbing only on Jan 8, we were not prepared... The UK- version is spreading here too, expected to govern new infections by March, a major concern. Same issue with Pfizer in temporary reduced production. Interestingly, the willingness to get vaccined has increased over the last months. Lock-down measures will possibly be further extended. We just hang in there, and (try to) have som
  11. There are 2 types if strips, each with their own rivets. Early cars (1970 too) have the narrow strips, later cars (CR I believe) have the wider ones. Waldi
  12. Genious indeed. Well done Pete. Waldi
  13. Hi Richard, I’m considering that too, we call it a “dry system” . Part of the living room does not have UFH. My goal is to have a bit more capacity to reduce the water temperature. UFH is very comfortable by the way. There are several systems available over here, some only 20 mm thick; with 10 mm flexible tubes. Whatever you decide, ensure the bottom of the floor is properly insulated. I applied 80 mm rhesol foam to the underside of my floor (in the basement), that was 10 years ago. I would increase that if I had to do it today. Cheers, Waldi
  14. There are dry UFH systems, where the hoses are not embedded in the cement. 60-80 W/m2 capacity. Heat pumps that heat the (boiler-) water that warms the house require an “as low as possible” water temperature (preferably 30 degrees C or less) to be efficient. At these low temperatures normal radiators are not sufficient, and this is where UFH comes into the picture. Before even considering a heat pump, improve insulation first. That’s what I’m doing at the moment. A required water temperature test gives you a good indication if your house can be heated efficiently with a heat pu
  15. Limora, Bastuck, ... There may be others, but I do not know these. Cheers, Waldi
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