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About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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  1. Just a couple of thou is what you would expect. 30/37 thou (0.7-1.0 mm) is certainly not acceptable. Waldi
  2. No, I meant both calipers. If one piston in one caliper is seized, there is a fair chance the others are in similar condition (but not seized yet). Doing both calipers at the same time also avoids differences in brake force L/R. The revision sets are not expensive. Waldi
  3. If it really does not move, it is provably froozen. Have you tried to push it in with a C-clamp (calliper removed)? Or (carefully) with a screwdriver between disc and pad (but not too much force to avoid bending the disc). And then push it out again with hydraulic pressure (apply brake). It may free itself if it isn’t too stuck. Otherwise it probably means dismantling the calliper and then it is better to do both sides. Waldi
  4. Waldi


    Hi Andy, the nuts on the pedestals appear to be not in full contact, are the studs the correct length? Edit: And yes, both ends need to be closed, so the (limited amount of oil in this area) can flow where it is needed.
  5. after my full body off resto I simply installed the shims where they were before, and also the track rod lenghts were set to the same, assuming it would be about ok. It was not, I had a huge toe-out. Funny, isn’t it? I aligned all four wheels myself, using a simple laser. It was a day work, and when I had it checked on a professional station, the results were very close to mine. I felt proud:) Cheers, Waldi
  6. I calculated back to “angle”, and then measured on the rim. If you are not sure your wheels are absolutely straight, do the measurement, then to roll the car so the wheels rotate 180 degrees and then take a 2nd measurement and average the outcome of the 2 measurements. Waldi
  7. Hi Andy, I think that is correct, see this picture that I once copied from this forum.
  8. Very nice, the way they use the tail is spectacular. Not common here in Holland (rare) unfortunately.
  9. Hi John, I find it amazing how quick I forget what I did some 3 years ago. But i think the effect of the valve clearance is the same on opening and closing, not sure however, so it does not matter. Others with better memory will tell you how it is. Check TDC first, do not rely on the pulley marks. Cheers, Waldi
  10. Hi John, mine came from Revington, but there are others available, there was a post a couple of years back about it. Waldi
  11. Hi Pete, in the early nineties I changed the Strombergs for SU’s, but it made no difference, needless to say I was disappointed. It may have been a needle issue, but car ran ok. Others will have a more fresh and hopefully better experience. Waldi
  12. Hi Rich, mine were similar I think, and the fitting wasn’t very convincing, as if it could pop off any time. But it didn’t. So if you gave fitted the same gaitor as the old one it should be fine. Waldi
  13. Happy birthday Bob. Waldi
  14. Not sure if there is a preferred way Timo, but I have always followed the Moss catalog, even if I thought it did not matter (because sometimes it does, like with the trailing arm mounts). Cheers, Waldi
  15. On aluminium surfaces it is good practice to have a flat ring first to prevent damage by the hex head to the aluminium. It does not hurt having flat rings both sides, however. Waldi
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