Waldi

The fire wall serves several purposes: Besides reduced fire hazard during a collision it also stiffens the body/chassis and, maybe equally important, it keeps fuel out of the cock pit in case of simple fuel leaks, like from a ruptured hose. thick. Lastly, it reduces fumes (petrol and exhaust) being sucked in the cock pit from the boot. I used 1 mm aluminium sheet (rivited and glued), which is easy to form and does not make the rear panel trim too Waldi

A warning for owners that have a BRAIDED RUBBER HOSES fitted between pump and prv or at the MU inlet and still assume it is “ok”: In 2018 I bought a new hose, including the fittings from one of the larger TR specialists in the UK. The pipe was Codan 3106/08 (the last digit was hard to read due to poor ink-print). Likely 3106 as there is no 3108 hose listed. It felt too supple for my likings so I only used the new fittings and had Gates hose to R14 spec fitted by a pipe shop with metal ferrules. On the pictures below you can see the difference between the Gates hose (thicker and mo

Maybe first test with air before installing it back, so you know it’s not leaking much below 105 psi? Waldi

My PRV which was reconditioned by Neil Ferguson does not have the O-ring. I doubt it serves a purpose. Picture attached of my PRV internals. I had to open it because my PRV was stuck after the winter. I found no visible debris, and assumed the brass bushing (the valve seat) had corroded so I polished it with car wax and it was ok after that. Waldi

Hi Marco, there is nothing wrong with your view /analysis on the hand brake, it is just that not everyone (including me) has your skills to re-resign the hand brake. If there was a set commercially available which was easy to install I would be the first to order. Keep them coming. Waldi

I read on the TR Enterprises website that later cars (around ‘75 onwards) for the US market had the extended levers fitted from the factory: https://triumphspecialtuning.com/product/extended-handbrake-levers-triumph-tr4a-6/

I agree with John. For a good assessment a new test is needed, it would be wrong to “average” the 2 curves, especially in the lower rpm range. For the upper part of the revs (say 3000-5000 rpm) the better adjusted TB’s would not make much difference since the butterflies will be further opened so the difference there is difficult to clarify. FWIW: My std PI runs with 12.5-13.5 AFR at idle and more towards 14.5-15 at cruising speed. I have one sensor only, in one of the 2 down pipes. When the engine is cold it shows leaner readings, likely due to wetting and poor combustion.

Same here, Gates Fuel Injection hose to R14 spec with metal crimped sleeves on the ends. I ordered the hose and then a hydrailic pipe shop crimped them on my fittings. Thanks for sharing the more recent version of SAE J30. Waldi

Hi Rich, I always remove the 4 bolts of the diff flange too, in that way you can pull out the entire assembly. It could well be that your splines are dry or even damaged by insufficient lubrication so do not slide easily. Waldi

I ordered mine from Neil Ferguson, and did not ask what grade of nylon they are had so issues since 2019. Waldi

Thank you Harry, I know exactly where it is;) I had to remove it 3 years ago after it had become stuck during the winter lay-up. Waldi

+1 for viton for this application, and you can get different hardnesses as well. Waldi

Thank you John. My car is difficult to start and the clear pipes would have been a simple aid in analysing the cause(s). Even removing the PRV for testing is not a simple job, given it’s location and accessability. Next time the MU is removed (nothing planned yet) I will install these clear pipes. Waldi

The transparent (nylon??) fuel pipes between MU and injectors may not be original but gave one advantage: you can see if there is entrapped air in the pipe. Has anyone experience with these transparent pipes, and what do you see? Waldi

Thanks Mike. Waldi