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Waldi last won the day on December 2 2018

Waldi had the most liked content!

About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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  1. Waldi

    Differential overhaul

    Tim, after I did read several comments on here with diff issues after a rebuild, I decided to just open clean and inspect the diff and replace the 3 seals. I had no iron/brass in the bottom, and all looked ok. The front oil seal requires removal of the flange and nut. I marked the position of the nut before removal (it was loose), and installed it a bit tighter, but not to the specified “torque” (resistance), think I did 1/2 of that. Have not driven the car yet, so too soon to tell. As Roger pointed out, use silicone on the flange; I did that too, but despite that, it still is not completely dry, think I used too little, being concerned to have silicone sealant in the oil. Regards, Waldi
  2. Waldi

    Differential overhaul

    Tim, a diff is relatively easy to remove/install. why not remove the rear cover, clean and inspect the internals, put 3 new seals in and see how it drives? Waldi
  3. Nice work Mark, and all the additional space you suddenly have right? Waldi
  4. Waldi

    Fuel Hose Specification (High Pressure)

    Hi Sean, good that you have the Barricade hose. Is it the 225 psi rated hose (it should be)?Moss do sell a Barricade hose, but for a much lower allowable pressure, suitable for carburettor applications and return lines. I wondered about the hoses without a pressed sleeve too, as I had one or two like that, also with a red plastic ring. I do not know the difference between push-on and sleeve-type fittings (barbs), but it is also related to the rigidity of the hose, off course. One simple test is that you should not be able to rotate the hose relative to the fitting. Also when warm and pressurized after some time in use. Waldi
  5. Waldi

    Her first start

    Thank you Peter, I think I have set ign timing exactly like that when I assembled the engine. MU also set according wsm. I have not measured fuel pressure yet, have a new Bosch pump and reconditioned PRV, MU and injectors, so for now I assume fuel pressure is ok. Measuring it is on my list after “diesel start” and ign timing. Waldi
  6. Waldi

    Dash support bracket

    i would use a rev nut as Stuart recommends. If the nut is welded (on my CP they are), I would tap them to the next size. Waldi
  7. Waldi

    Bosch Pump woe's & Noise

    I had a rust flake stuck in the tank wich resulted in cavitation and a screaming Bosch pump. Waldi
  8. Waldi

    Her first start

    Hi Steve, I did that during the rebuild as this forum triggered me:) I was within 1 degree of the original mark. I used the micrometer approach to find the TDC, as also described here many times. wish the forum was there in 1993 with my first TR6. Waldi
  9. Waldi

    Her first start

    Hi Ed, Thanks and yes, I will do that (again). With valve cover removed to verify both valves of the #1 Cyl are closed. Waldi
  10. Waldi

    Pi accelerator cable.

    I cannot imagine it left the factory like this, but when you look at the Moss catalog, it is a very poor design. Waldi
  11. Waldi

    Pi accelerator cable.

    That’s what I have, but mine is a bit bigger, so the bullit for the pedal that is crimped/soldered on the inner cable end passes just through it, think I had to drill 5 mm. Waldi
  12. Waldi

    And so it begins.....

    Thanks Sean, looked it up; looks like nice tool. Waldi
  13. Waldi

    Light switch melt

    Hi Michael, I think the wires are soldered. wish I had replaced them for modern wires with thinner insulation. And if relays are used, 0.5 mm2 should be more than enough. also worth checking resistance of all the switches (use Ohm meter on the wires); resistance should be almost zero (say less than 0.5 Ohm. If more, use contact spray, that worked for me. I installed the stalks for OD, light and flashers with the column on the workbench, that makes a better quality job possible. Think I held the long metal conduit with some ty-wraps during installation. Waldi
  14. Waldi

    And so it begins.....

    Hi Sean, nice work! Do you know the make/type of shrinker / stretcher you have? Thanks, Waldi
  15. Waldi

    Pi accelerator cable.

    Mark, I had a brass fitting (cable adjuster) from an old motorcycle, probably clutch or front brake. It had a slit over the entire length, these are pretty common. Thread dimension approx 8-9 mm outer diameter. I used that with a nut both sides of the bulkhead, now the cable is nice steady. I drilled the hole where the outer cable fits in at the same diameter as the sleeve pressed on the cable end so it had a sliding fit with almost no lateral play. Waldi

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