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Waldi

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Waldi last won the day on April 25

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About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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  1. Waldi

    Oilpump

    I have a new oil pump from Chris Wittor. Since I measure all my new conponents and compare with the old ones I noted: The internal clearances were all ok. The 3 hex head screws are 10 mm, so I re-used my old ones. The drive shaft was quitte a bit smaller in diameter which results in more oil loss through the bushing. The drive shaft was a 1-2 mm shorter, which results in less grip in the drive key. Oil pressure on my reconditioned engine is good with this pump however. Others have reported spanes from machining in the new pump, mine was clean, but knowing you by now, you will check it:) So not a perfect pump, but I found it acceptable. Waldi
  2. Waldi

    Thrust washers

    Tim, If you first remove the crank shaft, then you can inspect the crank shaft and bearing cap faces for damage. I have seen a crank shaft that had a weld-repair in on the counter face of the TW; it had some cratering in the neck where it should have a smooth radius. I would not do such repair and look for a good 2nd hand crank. Waldi
  3. Hi Rich, figuring out yourselves, with some hints from the forum (Roger as often) is very rewarding, isn’t it? If you hear pinking, it may need a bit retarding, if not, just keave it as it is. Having a reconditioned spare dizzy is nice, but for me not a necessity. Think that’s a personal choise. Waldi
  4. Waldi

    Fuel leak

    Hi Paul, To add to Dave’s post above: There are 2 seals in the pedestral, one is keeping engine oil where it should, the other is keeping the fuel in the MU. And in-between these 2 oil seals is a tell-tale hole, which gives an early warning should there be leakage of either fluids. The fuel pressure in the MU is high (100-105 PSI, but the pressure at the seal area’s is normally much lower (oil seals cannot handle 100 psi). If you have leakage between MU flange and pedestral, this has little to do with these 2 seals; in fact, the seal on the MU side is doing well as long as no fuel is coming from the tell- tale hole. Between the MU and the pedestal is a thin O-ring, and this is apparently leaking. But why? A blocked return line is a possible cause for that, this will raise the pressure at this (normally) low pressure area. I would first check the MU return line (blow it clear, both sides disconnected), and also replace the leaking O-ring. Make sure it is Viton, not normal NBR rubber. Waldi
  5. Waldi

    Adjusting SU HS6

    Hi Peter, Glad to see you here again! And this post is just an example why the forum needs people like you, amongst your other thoughts. Best regards, Waldi
  6. Waldi

    FIXINGS

    Thank you for that Peter, I was not aware of this. I will check mine. Regards, Waldi
  7. Waldi

    Fuel leak

    Hi Paul, it is probably me, but what joint is leaking? Thanks, Waldi
  8. Waldi

    Injection problem?

    If all the above still does not resolve it, swap the plug lead too. Waldi
  9. Hi Andy, that should not be too difficult, it has just a couple of protruting sections for the distance and gas to escape (flow). Waldi
  10. You can buy a ferrule (hope that is the correct word, I mean the bush at the end of your torch where the weld filler and gas exits) for a MAG (CO2) welder for making nice plugwelds. With that you push your torch against the metal. They are cheap too. Waldi
  11. Hi Neil, this will make you the “Forum Hero of the Day” When we all fill in more PQI forms when a part fails early or misbehaves in another way, the vendors can be convinced to push the manufacturers. I raised only one PQI form so far (shame on me), but it was dealt with by the PQI team in a constructive manner, and I received feddback. As a result, one supplier checked and corrected his stocks, but another ignored it. Needless to say I never ordered from that supplier again. Waldi
  12. Hi Ian, Good you sorted it. On the B-post shims: Removing the shims at the B-post helped me to correct the shut-line at the bottom side of the door as well, it was narrow at the rear end of the door. Lifting the rear end would only have reduced the upper B-post gap, but not improved the door bottom gap. But I guess several roads lead to Rome. Regards, Waldi
  13. Hi Roger, I think it was John who was interested in another post. Best regards, Waldi
  14. +1 For the above reasons I waited with filling and bleeding until the body was installed. I used silicone brake fluid, so no concerns with damaging the paint. Waldi
  15. I’ve ordered 2x1 liter, that was sufficient.
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