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Waldi

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Waldi last won the day on July 17

Waldi had the most liked content!

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About Waldi

  • Birthday 04/23/1962

Profile Information

  • Location
    Hellevoetsluis, Netherlands
  • Cars Owned:
    AR Spider Duetto, TR6, Moris Minor Traveller, MGB GT, XK140FHC, Healey MK2, TR6-PI (CP, 1970)

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  1. Congratulations Ian, great achievement. Regards, Waldi
  2. Thank you Neil. I think it does not matter much what the spring load is, but I guess I’m wrong here. Unfortunately I do not remember what the innards look like. If I recall correctly, the spring’s purpose is to provide sufficient force to press the inner part of the adapter and flat rubber ring to the machined engine boss. It is an internal seal. If it would not seat properly the oil would by-pass the filter cartridge, which will not result in reduced flow or pressure ( actually a bit more of both). And by screwing the tab more “in” the spring load (force) increases, but is this bad? Think I need another clue:) Regards, Waldi
  3. Thank you Richard. My understanding is that if the inner part lifts (goes further from the block), oil will be by-passing the filter, which should not affect pressure (flow). Maybe the issue is at the other end of the inner part? I should have made a sketch when I installed mine;) Waldi
  4. Very good Richard, if the issue persists (I hope not off course) I would remove the oil relief valve (again, sorry), and check it is not sticking / binding. Mine did, and by grinding a little bit from the disk It got more lateral clearance in the machined pocket in the block. Are you able to tell why the relocated tab would cause the issue? In other words: what happens exactly? Alternatively Neil (NTC), can you maybe enlighten my darkness? Thanks, Waldi
  5. Hi Andy, 22D is the generic type. The Lucas part no is on a small plate, it should be 41219 for 69-72 PI cars. If your distributor has a different number I would first talk to the repair shop (DD). Waldi
  6. Hi Richard, good you found it. I have found a copy of the (Moss) adapter fitiing instructions, 3 pages. If you pm me your mail adress, I will send them to you. There is no mention about the location of the tab. Do not forget to inspect (replace) the thin O-ring between the inner and outer adapter. Oil it before assembly to avoid it is damaged at installation. I hope this will solve your issue, as I do not understand why a restricted cross-sectional area should give a high pressure with cold oil but a very low pressure hot. Regards, Waldi
  7. Hi Tim, I would involve the company who did the overhaul (ORS), firstly for their opinion, but also in case there is still warrenty. The sooner they are involved, the better. And keep the old oil just in case ORS wwnt’s to see that. Waldi
  8. As Jerry says, there is a risk of internal bypassing (which would not affect oil pressure but will result in poor oil filtration. This because with the central nut both the external seal (block ring in machined groove) and internal seal (which sits against the inner machined surface of the block) can be on different heights. Modern adaptors have a spring loaded inner gasket ring, which is pushed to the block by a spring. If you carefully look at the design before installation so you understand how it works you reduce the risk of wrong installation a lot. Regards, Waldi
  9. Hi Hamish, thanks for your effort! What a great way of showing others what a day looks like! Waldi
  10. Waldi

    Slipping Clutch

    Hi Cameron, it is hard to judge from a picture but it looks dirty for the 3-4000 mls you have driven with it. If it is much darker than new and stinks like burnt friction material, it could be from overheating by a slipping OD clutch, but again, that is hard to tell from a picture. Waldi
  11. Waldi

    Slipping Clutch

    Hi Cameron, I agree about the smell not coming from the OD clutch, so very likely main clutch. With the car at rest, before you removed the slave cylinder, have you checked if there was no load from the slave cylinder to the clutch: you should be able to easily push the lever forward by hand, with just light effort. If that is ok, I suspect it is a clutch plate issue. i think the slow engaging of the OD is a separate issue. Was the oil level ok before you drained it. It would also be good to remove the large brass plug with the filter and magnetic rings. The OD plunger pump sucks from there. “Some” (a bit) fine metal in there is ok, but not to large or to much. Waldi
  12. Very nice, succesful combination. Waldi
  13. Hi Jochem, I can see if you put just washers (rings) between the spring pan and the wishbones, this will give the spring pan more freedom to start flexing which could result in fatigue. Not sure if this is a valid concern though. Waldi
  14. Waldi

    Big End Bearings

    John, I ordered King trimetal, they are relatively cheep, but appeared to result in a larger than acceptable radial clearance. All other clearances (journals and caps) were correct. I never had a response from King, other than “speak to your distributor” . I then ordered Glacier, and the clearances came out as “per the book”. There are several posts on this forum about this. Some prefer NOS, but I prefer new (recently produced) good quality items, because in 40-50 years, a lot can happen. But that is my personal thought. Others have used the cheap bearings (I think County) from our suppliers with succes, so that is another option. Regards, Waldi
  15. Another one: I bought a can of 5l. Phosphoric acid, 85%, from a UK supplier who shipped it to the Netherlands. Nasty stuff. The plastic container was thin-walled, and was just pul in plastic bag in a card board box which also was the “light” version. Waldi
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