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  1. Hi Stuart, I had heard that as well, though there was no mention of it in the parts box. As they are, they are not at full drop, being held up by the trailing arm drop link. Clearly once the car's on its tyres they'll be even more linear, but there's a good 3-4 inches of drop being mitigated by the drop link. Blair
  2. Hello all, greetings from Burgundy, where it was -10C last weekend and will be 20C this weekend! Sheesh! First post for a long time, as I've been doing prep: cleaning, degreasing, derusting, sandblasting, painting, etc. in preparation for starting to rebuild. As you see from the pics below, it's begun. The chassis has been repaired, reinforced, treated inside with Waxoyl and painted with POR-15. The rear has gone onto the car, and its installation has led me to a real beginner's question: I need to torque the rear axle flange and the hub nut (particularly hard, this one). How do I immobil
  3. Greetings everyone. I'm in the process of rebuilding the brake servo on my '69 TR6, and have almost completed the job. Suddenly, I find a broken part that I must have damaged removing it - the toothed spring-steel retainer for the master cylinder push rod (the smaller of the two toothed retainers in the servo, shown in the middle of page 6 of the attached link; his was broken too, but he gave no info on sourcing a new one). After a fruitless search, I turn to you: Can anyone help me source one of these elusive devils? It would be a shame to have a buy a whole new servo for want of a retainer,
  4. FYI, another anecdotal piece of information. I shipped my distributor from France to Distributor Doctor in the UK for rebuilding the second week of January via UPS. Today I learned that UPS in the UK has lost it, and I'm SOL. I don't know if it is linked to the border chaos, but here it is for your consideration.
  5. No, it's Brexit. My gearbox is done and waiting until the sh*tshow gets sorted out.
  6. Thanks for the advice everyone. In fact, my plan was to apply a brush coat of POR 15 over the powder coat, and treat the inside with Waxoyl. I had not heard of Dinitrol, but a quick search shows the 3125 HS is only available from the UK - problematic at the moment.
  7. Progress, ladies and gentlemen. Chassis strengthening and repairs are done (see pics), and after a bit of cleaning up welds, it will be off in early January to be powder coated. In the end, I did re-weld the angle iron to the rear suspension bridge once the diff pin problem had been sorted out and both reinforced. It really stiffens the bridge across its length. You can't see it in the pics, but I boxed in the underside of the diff pins as well. One other occurence today, which could have been a disaster but wasn't in the end, aside from a busted part. I was pressing out the bearings for
  8. I spoke to the London branch, and they didn't turn the business down, just asked me to defer it. Reasoning was: huge delays at UK ports currently, so no guarantees of leaving the country before Jan. 1, at which point all could change re: duties, VAT, etc., not to mention the risk of shipments being simply lost. And as for the Paris branch, they get their supplies from the UK as well, so are facing the same problem, particularly if you're ordering something that's not and everyday item. Blair
  9. Back to my original point: Moss asked me to refrain until next year from ordering parts for my TR6 as they can't guarantee their delivery to France because of the chaos. Blair
  10. I tried to place a significant order with Moss yesterday, and was advised to wait until after Jan. 1. Not only do they not know whether the parts will get to me because of the current chaos at the ports, they're not sure what would happen to them in the event of a delay. I can't imagine the situation will improve magically on Jan. 1. I spoke to my gearbox rebuilder as well, and they're going to load it and some other EU work into a truck and drive it over themselves before the end of the year. Everyone I spoke to in the UK was scathing about the incompetence of its government. It truly is a fu
  11. Well, I found out what was under that piece of angle iron welded onto the diff bridge as a reinforcement - not so pretty! Blair
  12. The good news is that the frame is both square and level. But clearly, I have some work to do. I will take off that reinforcing plate on the spring frame - it's only stitch-welded on - but if it's clean metal underneath, I'll probably put it back and weld it properly, leaving only some drain holes, as the diff pins are rock solid and it appears to have done a good job reinforcing. And I agree that the wonky suspension mount needs to be ground off and replaced. I'll post updates as I make progress. And what about the trailing arms? Paint or not? Thanks, Blair
  13. Greetings all, and sorry for the radio silence the last little while. I've gotten to the point were I'm just cleaning/refurbishing parts, and while vital, that's not particularly interesting. That said, I've got two questions for the collective mind: 1. I got the chassis back from media blasting with a coat of primer on so I can weld in the reinforcements before final finishing. With all the undercoating removed, it appears to me the quality of the factory welds is, how to put it, less than ideal (see pics below). Is this a usual situation? Should I go through and reweld everywhere t
  14. A propos to this subject, I am considering fitting braided stainless brake hoses to my TR6. Is the same issue evident with them? Better to rest with originals? Thanks, Blair
  15. I have decided to buy new cam followers, astray aren't the expensive. I'm also taking all the lower engine parts to my machine shop (in Dijon) to have them checked and verified. That way I'll know for certain about the state of bearings, sizes to order, etc. I thought I might be able to do all that myself, but better safe than sorry! Thank you for all your shared wisdom. So in prepping the block and other parts to go off, I ran across two interesting things (see pics). First, the block is/was painted a kind of olive green. Seems like an odd colour choice to me, but perhaps you've seen it b
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