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  1. Thanks Rob, and yes: You are correct. The new CT box puts both dip and flash on the same unit. The original '69 schematic no longer applies, as it's been modified to accept the new box; I pulled a new wire from the steering column to the dip switch before I looked closely at the switch, thus the fourth wire. I'm thinking I may simply have to remove it. You can see the entirety of the CT schematic here: https://classic-technologies.com/pdfs/Classic-Technologies-Fuse-Box-Schematic.pdf Thanks again for your help. Blair
  2. Greetings! I'm beginning to get a handle on the electrical system, but I've run across another issue: The headlight dip switch is a three-wire switch, and the Classic Technologies control box I'm installing calls for a four-wire switch. I've searched and searched, but can't find such a thing. My understanding from the schematic is that the fourth wire feeds the headlamps continually during the change from low to high beams, so there's no blanking during the switchover. Is there a way to modify the existing switch to permit it to work this way? Thanks in advance, as always. Blair
  3. Thanks Rob. As a simpler test, if the existing wire strips cleanly with the 2mm setting on my strippers, is that close enough? Or do I need to be more precise? Blair
  4. Greetings all. I'm getting deep into the electrical system, preparing to install the Classic Technologies upgraded fuse/relay box. Quick question (in what I imagine will be a long line): Is the existing wire in my '69 TR6 harness (which looks like it's already been replaced) sufficient to run the Bosch fuel pump? Or do I need to run a heavier gauge? Thanks.
  5. So shall it be written, so shall it be done. Thank you gentlemen; this is something that would never have crossed my mind. Blair
  6. Thank you so much, Rob. Really useful, helpful stuff! I assume I can completely remove the intermediate terminal from which I disconnect the brown/red wire, and run the remaining brown straight from the fuse box to the starter. Blair
  7. And now on to the hard part... I'm starting the electrical system, and I have a couple of questions already: As you can see from the pic, my alternator harness is wired as per the original spec. Problem is, my alternator was rotten, so I changed it for a 17ACR. I have ordered the correct Lucar connector for the new alternator, but nowhere have I been able to find how to modify the original wiring to work with the new part. Can anyone help? Secondly, wiring the new radiator fan. The fan power block (pic) I assume will go directly to the new relay. Question is: How does it interfa
  8. If it helps, the dampener on my '69 looked just like this, and I sent it from France to Damper Dudes in the US. Quick turnaround, great work, and no problems. Blair
  9. Refurbished petrol tank, and new Bosch-style pump/filter and PRV installed and plumbed in. I opted to put the pump/filter on the outside for cooling purposes, and will almost certainly make a shield to protect them from road rubbish. Next up: Brake and clutch master cylinders and plumbing! Blair
  10. Will do, Andy. Looking forward to it!
  11. Thanks so much, Kev. It's been so long since I removed that H frame that I forgot about it! Guess I'd better get some shims between the floor and chassis while I have good access. Blair
  12. Progress! After a two-month wait on the body shop, I've got the painted shell and unfinished sides back, and the shell is now shimmed and installed, and the door gaps set. I have one question on the last picture: These two holes with nuts, in the floor on either side of the gearbox, appear to be for mounting the shell. But I find no reference anywhere to these fixtures - TRF, the suppliers, and the Internet as a whole. Can anyone help? Are they perhaps for fitting the gearbox tunnel? In any case, the sides are heading back to the body shop. Once they, along with the boot and bonnet, are
  13. Before I re-attach the original commission plate to my '69's body shell, has anyone ever seen one like this (below)? As it's so old and hard to read, I thought I might replace it, but none of the plates on offer from the usual suspects look like it. What's more, it's got things on it I didn't expect and can't understand: the TR6 stamp, and the numbers 40115, 1340 (assume that's GVW), and 2356. Anyone have any ideas about what these number mean? Thanks in advance... Blair
  14. Greetings from Burgundy. Sorry for the radio silence the past several weeks; I've been stuck, waiting on the body shop. Used the time to clean and paint parts, but am ready to get moving again, as the shell will be ready next week. I do have a couple of questions before it goes back on: First, I've had to replace the clutch master/slave combination. If you look at the slave pics below, I'm not sure about how it's mounted. Normally, I think the slave flange would be on the back side of the rear engine plate towards the gearbox. However, two points: The slave's flange itself is only ma
  15. Thanks everyone for your help. If the BMIHT certificate is not sufficient to register the car in France, I shall go the FFVE route. That said, I think I'd still like to have it, for the reason Kiwifrog sets out above. Blair
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