stuart

They do indeed fit in the up/down orientation with the "U" to the chassis and IIRC the engine side stud is above the chassis side one. They are the supposed "Fail safe" version however when I restored my 4a 26 yrs ago all that was available then was the round ones (albeit in BL blue boxes so possibly better quality than available now) They lasted up till last year when the engine came out to cure oil leaks and fit larger pistons when they were changed for the larger Landrover round ones. The originals were still found to be good albeit very slightly squashed and they have had some stick over the years. Stuart.

Its still around though its now Silver https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/?_ga=2.9460597.1135928580.1568643116-1059870568.1568643116 Stuart.

Yes if you get too much temperature changes so condensation appears under the cover. Stuart.

Check the front body mountings for spacers because if they are missing and the body is pretty much mounted straight on the chassis then the rad will foul, There is only minimal clearance to the rad cap anyway with the cross member of the bonnet .The type of rad cap in the pictures wont fit either as it fouls. Stuart.

Your still going to get the same problem with it chafing against the car. Why not get in touch with people who make the Airchambers (Thats the one with the frame inside) and see if they would do you one with access at both ends then you could leave it erected and drive your other car out through it when required. Stuart.

Good idea as long as you remember when you come back to start! Stuart.

But did you fit a collision cut out though Tom? Stuart.

FWIW The release bearing is different for a spring clutch (TR2/3/3a/4) to a diaphragm clutch (TR4a/5/6) Stuart.

Interesting injection setup on the 5. Stuart.

Not far from me in Camelford, they will make you all sorts of brake parts. Stuart.

Always a proper MOT, why wouldnt you? Stuart

I always assemble with red grease first as last, been doing this for years especially useful if its going to be a while before using the system as in a complete nut and bolt rebuild. Never had a problem with calipers. Stuart.

No absolutely not. Drill a hole in the re-enforcement plate just big enough to slip the plate over the top of it and seam weld round the plate and then round the pin. Stuart.

Looking at the Goodparts shafts in comparison with the CDD ones the Goodparts look to be a completely different design and certainly more substantial. Stuart.

Look for an original Girling kit, yellow/blue box Stuart.