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  1. . Me Big man.. me make big mess in kitchen ! ^ a quick check for flatness of this sump's gasket face reveals a corner not sitting flat by 0.003". . ^ 320 grit wet n' dry taped to the flattest part of this kitchen worktop ..and with a little elbow grease + soap n' water - its gasket face was trued up a little. * I use a felt pen (waterproof ink) as a very convenient substitute for engineers blue. It works well. ^ the sump's gasket face is now very flat aside from a dint ..right next to the middle stud hole in its forward end (to the right you can see what looks like a black dot). As engine oil might seep passed this and out through the stud's hole - I'll fill that dint with a spot of Araldite. The new spacer was as flat as any I've yet bought and was generally fine after a few minutes work, aside for a slight low cut (see blue across either end). It been milled but this one cut was perhaps a thou deeper. A bit more work on the wet n' dry pad took the surrounding aluminium down so it's barely discernible now. So I moved over to checking the rocker cover's gasket face and that of the engine's timing chain inspection cover. ^ the rocker cover I had done before and so this was more a check than anything. And this particular cover is in excellent condition. Sadly I've come across so many which have been abused over the years with careless handling, over tightening of the three studs (which cracks the casings and then need welding), and most are badly bowed. Some I've known to have 0.035" or more distortion. This one shows a little hogging, but it's now less than a thou, so as I double up on the card gasket I use here - I'll leave it as is. The gasket face of the little inspection cover though is pulled down at every fastening hole. I could slip a 0.006" feeler gauge inbetween the worktop and gasket face, in the short span between the holes. That's more than the gasket can take up, so it must have been leaking badly when last use. Awkward little so n' so to hold down and rub against the wet n' dry., but little by little it succumbed to the threat - be flat or be scrapped ! So, only an hour of work today ..but an hour in the right direction is better than non at all. ......even if it take me a further half an hour to clean the kitchen again ! Pete.
  2. And I thought it was much older bastar'n of the word which became "deutsch" ie., the (their) Germanic language, as opposed to the Angles or the Saxons. ..Just goes to show - I knows nuffink.
  3. It isn't ? I believed it was, as it referred to liners traveling and from the orient, whereby in very hot climates like heading off down the Suez - the port side of the vessel was northerly and therefore in the shade. Accordingly posh people ..like officer's and the generously tipping gentry were given those cabins and chairs on that side deck. On the way back the starboard side of the vessel would be shaded, so then posh types paid more to be accommodated on that side.
  4. . This afternoon I carried on from the above ..catching up on the second engine. . . . ^ the problem with studs is that if any of their holes have been drilled off-perpendicular to the gasket face, then the stud either splays sideways or in or out ..relative to the others. Then the sump &/or sump spacer wont go over them. Of course the longer the stud is.. the more out of true alignment their free ends are. Mostly this can be corrected by judicious filing of the holes in the sump and sump extension . . . ^ The red felt pen ticks indicate where the stud fouls in the hole, in this case - preventing the sump spacer from going on. So here (in this photo) I'm using sideways force on the drill-bit to ease the hole in the direction of the tick. The sump spacers have slightly oversized holes., but even so they needed filing or in my case drilling sideways to make it fit. The sump I'm using was not original to this engine, and its drilled holes were a tighter fit to the studs, so a time consuming amount of rework was needed. . ^ this particular stud's hole was drilled n' tapped at slightly the wrong angle, whereby the free end of the stud was out of alignment by over 1/16" (1 - 2mm). After fitting and noting which way it fitted in the hole - I took it out again and bent it ! ^ This is that same stud, now refitted, and you can just about see how it's bent (the shape did sprung back some, after being altered in the vice). The end tip of the thread is now in alignment with the others, but of course it is still bowed out ..but by only half as much as its end previously was ! . ^ It took me a couple of hours to alter the spacer's and sump's holes to fit over these crankcase studs. Even now some are an interference fit - but those parts can be wiggled off by hand, rather than needing wedges to free them. Once in place there's just a little slack on the studs - so the crankcase's holes were all drilled in the right place ..just not at the right angle. That part of the job is now done, but to my eye the spacer looks slab-sided and ugly, relative to the otherwise beautifully sculptured crankcase. . . ^ pencil marked where it is to be cosmetically altered . . ^ carefully shallow cut all the way around, except in the area of the sump's drain plug. I don't do that place - simply to indicate the spacer's correct orientation. If fitted the other way around - my filing of the holes doesn't then suit the stud pattern and the sump outline shape won't align so neatly with this spacer ..as its holes have been drilled just little towards one end. . ^ widening that hacksaw blade cut with the corner of the file to form a v-shape groove. ^ and then rounding that v-shape groove into a shallow U shape. The finish isn't critical. In fact any neater and it looks worse ! ..because the castings of the engines cooling fins are likewise never perfectly straight nor smooth. ^ that's it. A whole lot of work to file a shallow grove around the slab face of the spacer. The proportions are reasonably compliment to the spacing of the engine case cooling fins ..and so after a few months on the road (when all the aluminium has oxidized to the same colour) then it will not even be noticed.! But to my mind - it is the details that you don't see which can make the difference between something looking right or something looking just a little odd. Enough of my prattling on today. I bid you a good evening. Pete.
  5. . Good afternoon all. With so many other distractions, not much has been happening on the bench this week ..but here's a little conversion I do to the oil filtration on my old Sunbeam motorcycle engines. . . . ^ The engine block (in aluminium) with the original filter ..the oval shaped brass top with gauze mesh around it, soldered onto a base plate. This plate (when inverted so the filter is facing downwards) is sandwiched (hence two gaskets) between the block and the cast aluminium sump (top right). The plate has a few through-holes, but they are not so large because it also serves as a baffle between the turbulence in the crankcase (with the crankshaft spinning around) and the wet-sump oil reservoir. It would helps stop the oil in the sump from surging forward ..away from the oil pump's pick-up pipe, under heavy braking. 'heavy' being a relative term with 1940's drum brakes, but perhaps the oil surging sideways is also a matter for concern, when the bikes are used with a sidecar. To the left is a (HOF306) disposable paper element oil filter ..which I now use, along with viton o-rings. Seen at the bottom of the photo is a spacer made and supplied Stewart Engineering, who are the primary supplier of post-war Sunbeam parts ..and I believe owners of the Sunbeam Motorcycle name and its design copyright. The 'sump spacer' is supplied with new gaskets and x12 longer studs. It cost the best part of £100 + p&p ..but is (sort of ) useful because it increases the standard (3-1/2 pints) engine oil capacity by an additional pint. However, the spacer fits between the baffle plate and sump casting, so unless one extends the pick-up pipe, that extra pint of oil just sits in the bottom of the sump. True it does mix in with the oil being circulated - but it does NOT add to the oil capacity which is accessible to the pump. For example should the oil run low - the pump will still suck air (despite still having that extra pint in the sump). Why is the spacer not fitted lower ..between the spacer and the sump casting then ? Well, without extending its pick-up pipe down to the bottom - the pump would suck air at the same oil level anyway. The gauze filter is soldered onto the plate with a soldered-on collar to snugly fit to the pick-up pipe. It' not insurmountable but would need to be removed for an extension tube to fit through it. And then how well would the plate work with so much engine oil above it ? I suspect that oil would literally be driven up the walls by the turbulence within the tight confines of this crankcase. So I change things. I leave the baffle plate where it was designed to be but I extend the oil pump's pick-up pipe. . ^ This shows the standard oil pump's pick-up pipe relative to the inside of the sump ..this is without x2 thick sump gaskets, the filter/baffle plate, or the after-market sump spacer. There is about 1/4" between it and the bottom, but because of the notch in that pipe - the pump would suck air if the oil locally surged away to be less than 1/2" deep. " Well that's a ridiculous low level of oil " you might rightly say. But let's do the maths (on these little engines). We'll start with a (standard) full capacity of 3-1/2 pints, and then there's, let's say, 3/4 pint of oil needed to fill the oil-ways, cavities and galleries throughout the engine, and then when the engine is running there's another 3/4 pint being splashed against / running down the insides of the cylinder head, rocker cover, timing case and crankcase. And the 1/2" air-gap between the sump and the top of the notch in the pick up pint constitutes another 3/4 pint, so also does the distance between the top of dipstick mark to the bottom mark (ie., conceivably less another 3/4 pint). So we have 3-1/2 pints, less 3/4, less 3/4, less another 3/4, and less yet another 3/4 pint = 1/2 pint reserve ! Is it not feasible that this 1/4 pint (= just 3/8" deep) might surge under braking or when a sidecar bike turns quickly through a fast corner ? . ^ illustrating the crankcase, and sump, relative to the length of the oil-pump's pick up pipe with the sump spacer fitted. The shiny tube I'm holding up to it is a length of aluminium which I'll use to extend the pipe by the spacer's thickness (21mm). . ^ The aluminum tube I use is an interference fit, on which I use Loctite but then literally hammer it on. . ^ With the sump spacer in place, but still without x2 thick gaskets and the filter/baffle plate, I've reduced the clearance between the sump and the tube to about 1/8". . ^ I then cut the bottom at a 45 deg angle so there's no restriction to oil flow, even if the tube should happen to work loose and drop down. . ^ The pipe is now cut, de-burred and thoroughly cleaned out, and I'm fitting the new / longer studs. . . . Moving on to the engine oil filter itself.. whose casing would stop my extended pick up pipe reaching the bottom, and otherwise has too coarse a mesh to prevent fine contaminates (byproducts of combustion and running-in engine wear) from circulating. . . . ^ the solder around the front of this one happened to be cracked anyway. . ^ Blowtorch used to un-solder it. I leave the two anti-surge plates in situ. . ^ cleaning off the surplus - it's surprising how the weight of this adds up. . ^ Ok cleaning up job done. two new holes (red arrows) have been drilled and I'm just about to add a piece of aluminium angle - longitudinally to the top face of the plate. This is to stiffen the plate against panting ..in a small crankcase which changes in volume by 500cc with every half revolution, and might also help with lessening the amount of oil being driven up the inside walls of the crankcase by the turbulence from the spinning crankshaft. . ^ Here I'm checking a length of rubber hose I've cut to sit between the crankcase and the baffle plate. It effectively seals around the hole through the plate and acts as a spacer to (again) prevent that plate from panting. .. ^ Working on two engines at once. That on the left shows the extend pick-up pipe with rubber hose sleeve around it. And the engine to the right shows the sump spacer in place and illustrates how the disposable filter fits. (NB. old sump gaskets are only used for dry assembly trials, and not for the final build). A fair bit of filing was done to have the plate and the sump extension sit down on the studs, as those (although original) are not perfectly parallel. . ^ detail showing my extended oil-pump pick-up pipe inside the disposable filter. The cast finish on the inside of the sump (seen in first photo) has been locally smoothed, so the o-ring forms a seal between it and filter, which is sandwiched in there. The baffle plate is of plated steel - so I'll also place a strong magnet on it. Because of it's size and shape, it can't go anywhere but in practice I've also never known one move about. . ^ The sump loosely dry fitted in place. And unfortunately yes, the sump does have to be removed to change that filter, but so did it when needing to clean the original gauze. Once after 200 miles of running in and thereafter every 3000 miles is not such an issue with a wet sump design. And of course, the oil itself may be changed frequently without dropping the sump. . ^ viewed of the aperture for the rear bearing carrier ..which also carries the oil pump and oil way galleries. The hole between the two studs at the bottom of this flange face is where the oil pump draws the engine oil from the sump, via the pick up pipe. And the hole through the flange near the top is where the oil-pump sends the pressurised engine oil up to the camshaft. Inside the case you can just see the upstanding length of aluminium angle used to stiffen the sump's baffle plate and to hamper oil being driven up the inside wall of the crankcase. In this morning's post I received a second sump spacer from Stewart Engineering, for the other engine. . . . ^ Actually it's a nice casting, but their instructions neglect to say it needs finishing. It's a raw casting and so the gasket faces are not smooth, and more often than not these castings are not flat ..but is often slightly bowed &/or twisted - so it needs flattening on both sides before it will be oil tight. Often the holes need easing too, but that's because these Sunbeam engines were made on 'very tired' war-time machines. Personally I also find they look slab-sided when fitted - and so, as you see in the other photos, I file a grove all around it's outside, which (visually) halves its height and imo compliments the lines of crankcase cooling fins. That's it for today - it's time for me to do some flatting and filing ! Best regards and take care, Pete.
  6. Again from what I've read, and I have no experience to the contrary - low detergent engine oils do not soften / dissolve / clean deposits off the inside of old engines. This might be likened to a mild detergent (for vulnerable fabrics / clothes dyes) used in your clothes washing machine - where its soapy-ness simply stops dirt re-sticking to other fibres ..after the hot water, tumbling and agitation lifts them out. Then the dirt is in fluid-suspension until its filtered (or in a wash machine changed). Personally, I would be very wary of using a high detergent oil in an older engine because - if it does soften / dissolve / clean deposits off the inside of oil ways or in hidden galleries ..and that comes off in flakes - they might cock sideways and cause a blockage ..But then I'm not having each of my engine parts chemically dipped to remove every last deposit. I have had to scrap badly pitted worm-gear wheels, made in bronze (..and very expensive to buy nowadays !) from the rear-drive of a post-war Sunbeam motorcycle ..because a prior owner used EP gear oil in it (standard spec is straight 90 mineral oil). But perhaps EP gear oil has different chemicals which caused that.? Still, I was warned that some high-detergent engine oils can be damaging / corrosive to certain metals such as the bronze bushes and gears (speedo-drive gear for example) used in older engines. I don't know this for a fact, but I do tend to heed such warnings. Pete.
  7. . speaking to a friend the other day (..by telephone) he said he'd be glad when things get back to normal.. My reply was " what the constant political bickering over Brexit, terrorist attacks, threats of war, and repeatedly shameful episodes of drunkeness and disorderly conduct in town centres on a Friday / Saturday night ?" ^ This may not sound like bright and cheery ' good stuff ' but personally I like to notice and appreciate some of the positive side of what is happening, and possibly even to learn from it. Local radio is brimming with stories of people being kind to their neighbours, and communities pulling together in the crisis. I applaud this thread for looking out for good things.. so on the pet theme here's an old favourite from me. . .
  8. Bobs comments on detergents is very valid. Nowadays many mono-grade oils use various degrees of detergent (usually moderate or mild ) to keep 'bits' (particularly combustion byproducts) in oil suspension long enough to be carried through to an element-type filter. Non-detergent oils are still available - which are supplied for prewar designs where the ' filters' consist of a gauze mesh (often loose enough weave for even small insects to get through ! ) combined with centrifugal crankshaft galleries and an oil-settling design of sump. My Sunbeam motorcycles, although post war, were designed like this. So I modify my own bikes to use an element filter (.. same as specified for a 1980's Skoda) so I might take advantage of detergent oils. Btw., Oil filters which are washable - I tend to think of as being the equivalent to gauze, rather than the disposable element type which are really so fine that they cannot be effectively washed out. The 4 potter Triumph TR engine has both the gauze pick-up essentially to prevent broken bits of steel or careless globs of gasket sealant from getting to the pump, but then an element oil filter to pick out the finer contaminants. In the old days (..yes, even I remember them !) engine oils were sold for winter use or for summer use ..so straight 20 for winter might be changed to straight-40 when the weather warmed up, and then back again near the end of Autumn. This doubly served good purpose, because a conscientious owner would also change his engine-oil twice a year ! But as so many owners became lax in their maintenance schedules - multi-grade oils were like a God-send. Engine designers took advantage of the lower viscosity to specify finer replaceable element oil-filters. The lighter-weight oil didn't however float heavy parts so well, so there was a massive move (1970's) towards ever lighter engine parts - which in turn led to the trend for shorter stroke, higher revving engines with six gears (..1980's sewing machines). To achieve the faster engine speeds (rpm).. less internal friction was needed so plain bearings gave way to bearing races - which require more splash than high pressure floating lubrication. However ball and roller races point-crush the oil, so oil molecules needed to be linked together by way of additives. Unfortunately some of those &/or the detergents were found to chemically attack (eat away) certain metals (such as bronze) which was used (for bushes and gears) in old engine designs. Physically smaller engines meant less engine oil was needed (still more compact and less weight) but being splashed around and without settlement tanks - the oil suffered from aeration (not good for pumping), so they were then modified to be wetter (to better flow back together again). And with such compact car designs a revolution in engine 'oil systems' occurred whereby the importance of internal oil cooling (localised heat dissipation from very hot spots) moved to be on parity with an oil's lubrication qualities. Those molecular links (which generally define synthetic oils) have especially slippery properties. Absolutely great for reducing friction ..but not good for older engine designed to wear (bed-in / run-in) from newly rebuilt. I have never tried it., but I have read that synthetic oils can prevent piston rings and plain bearings from bedding-in correctly. Bottom line.. over the past 50 years - engine design and oil development were hand in hand, and as you suggest ; a modern high-performance multi-grade oil designed for the high pressure loading, speeds and temperatures of turbo components - isn't necessarily the best thing for a slow but torquey 1950's design of engine. But perhaps the equally important thing to watch out for is the oil additives ..and what they might do to brass / bronze and/or to rubber parts like seals within our engines. Mineral oils seem to be an absolute-must during running in + a few thousand miles. However (thereafter), a fellow Sunbeam rider says he uses synthetic oils in his bike and has only seen positive effects. SAE ratings : The later TR4A workshop manual tells me, for the British Isles - that either straight 20w or SAE10w/30 from Shell was recommended, as was straight 20 or SAE20/50 from Duckhams (..other brands available from all good stores ). For overseas countries, generally over 20 deg c. it became straight 40 from both companies, dropping to straight 30 where temperatures of 0 - 20 deg c. were more the norm ..with 20w/40 recommended for both markets from Shell. Nowadays though (..and there are exceptions) very few British Isle owners who drive them in such sub-zero temperatures, let alone leave their TR parked outside overnight in such conditions. So, aside from the occasional week of "big freeze", I'd suggest we now live in a warmer climate than when the manual was written. This graph illustrates how multi-grades work. . courtesy of mechanics.stackexchange.com <here> And as the author correctly says - "All oils reduce in viscosity as the temperature goes up. The 10W-30 just means you have grade 10 viscosity when cold, and grade 30 viscosity when hot. Grade 10 oil when cold is still thicker than grade 30 oil when hot. The viscosity of a multi-grade oil still varies with temperature, but the slope representing the change is lessened." Put these things together and perhaps what I'm thinking is something like .. Penrite Engine Oil - Classic Medium 25W-70. As copied from Holden's website < here > it says ; " Penrite Classic Medium is a premium mineral, 25W-70, high zinc, low detergent engine oil designed specifically for engines manufactured between 1950 and 1989. This SAE 25W-70 grade oil can be used to replace SAE 40, with better results than using a 20W50. Classic Medium features a double layer of engine wear protection with high zinc and increased operating temperature viscosity, over older style multigrade oils or where SAE 40 monograde oil was specified by the manufacturer. It controls oil consumption and maintains oil pressure in older engines." This on the face of it appears to gives us a good quality mineral oil high zinc low detergent (just enough perhaps to keep a restored engine clean inside) a winter weight which is still good for 0 to -10 deg c. not too thin - so it ought to still quickly build up oil pressure. but not so thick when cold to significantly slow the engine's cranking. at normal engine temp, a weight equivalent to SAE40. ie., summer weight but not too thin when the engine gets really hot. ie., when stuck in traffic. at a price which is not at all outrageous for a respected brand. What do you / others think ? Pete.
  9. The official workshop manual says ; Main Journal Dia.: 2.4790 - 2.4795". Today measured the front journal at 2.4675" = which according to my maths is not the 0.010" increment, but rather is a 0.012" difference. Admittedly my measuring with digital vernier calipers is not so accurate, but my previous pressed-tight measurement recorded a 0.013 - 0.014" difference ! ..so I might only hope that my calipers / each of my measurements are way out. Again I'll have another engineering company check them for me, but the fear is that this machine operator removed 0.010" from whatever he measured the original part-worn journal size was ..rather than referring to workshop manual. I provided the con-rods with shells only for the big ends to be reground to. But the mains were not meant to have been reground so the machine shop never had the engine block, caps, or bearings to measure or work from. I loathe the prospect of dragging this through the courts but just in case - does anyone know of a lawyer who is very good with cases like these.? Pete.
  10. . In a utopian world there should never be shame in wishing to learn. Instinctively from a toddler age we ask ..to learn. And without an adult admitting (to themselves) their lack of understanding - they cannot self-teach. I'm always looking up things and constantly learning - I love it. Imo, the internet is truly a wonderful resource. The task then is to sort the wheat from the chaff of hearsay opinions. Multi-grade versus mono-grade engine oils - My understanding is that multi-grades are compounded to be the assigned viscosity when cold. And then as they get hot (sometimes very hot indeed) there is a molecular change and instead of thinning as they get hot - they stay much the same thickness / viscosity. This means the oil is not too thick to pump through tight clearances (like bushes) when it is cold ..but then as the oil gets very hot it doesn't go all watery - and therefore it retains the thickness of film coating to lubricate surfaces. Lighter oil, when cold, also offers less resistance to quickly turning and starting the engine. The sooner the engine fires up - the sooner the engine oil is being pumped to pressure and at the designed pace around the whole engine. That sounds great.. but used in the wrong engine design - is to ignore the reality that mechanical tolerances also change as individual components and then the engine block heats up. No two assemblies are the same, but some - for example, a spindle in a housing may thermally expand more (as it heats up) than the housing itself ..so the clearance between the two actually gets tighter. This can happen when the housing has better flow cooling or a greater surface area, or heat dissipating material than the spindle. Piston slap of a cold engine, which goes quieter as it warms up, is perhaps the most easily recognisable example of this - but it can also apply to valve stems in their guides, to camshafts in their bushes, and to numerous other parts - particularly in engines where plain bearings / shells / bushes are prevalent. Furthermore, if parts within an oil pump are loose fitting ..through sloppy machining or wear - then thicker oil will more quickly build up its pressure, whereas thinner oil tends to squeeze passed the pump's lobes, around the lobe ends, &/or out through the shaft. Nor does the less-viscous oil help when the tolerances are already 'ample' in other engine parts. Then you may want the thicker oil film to provide its lubrication from the very first kick into motion. Another scenario, especially on older engines, is the matter of engine oil draining away while the engine is not being run. My infrequently used Norton Commando didn't like multi-grade engine oils because its oil tank was remote (positioned high up under the saddle) and its lesser viscosity would drain back from the tank ..and flood the crankcase, even when it was cold. Mono-grade oils conversely thickened up as they cooled, so when left standing - the oil had less of a tendency to drain away. My 650cc Triumph Bonneville similarly had a tank mounted just under their seat, but in 1970 Triumph changed the design to be oil-within-the-frame ..which was deliberately situated low down ..to prevent drain-back and for the c. of g. Go figure.. the revised design was not understood so never well thought of by the pundits, which to this day is still reflected in the respective bike's values. A similar situation to the Norton is experienced with my Sunbeam motorcycles ..which has a wet sump but also has generous oil galleries in its overhead camshaft and rocker assembly. Multi-grade oils tend to run back down into the sump. So if a bike isn't used in a while - the almost always multi-grade oil drains down ..giving a false impression that the oil level on the dipstick is correct, and then taking crucial moments to build up oil pressure, to re-fill those galleries, and only then to squirt oil onto the camshaft (..this being at the very end of the oil route). Thick engine oil is also a very good acoustic damper. So again, because multi-grade engine oil is generally thinner than mono-grade oil (unless the latter is really very hot) - it makes the engine noisier. Hopefully you'll realise that any engine design was done in conjunction with the oils to be used. We owners ought to be aware of these things if/when we choose to overrule the specifications. But just sometimes - such characteristics can be used to advantage. For example I like to use a good multi-grade oil with element filtration in my Sunbeam motorcycles while I run a newly rebuilt engine in. ie., when every bearing is tight and the engine oil is hotter than normal. Anyway, I hope this has given you some of the pro-and cons, and otherwise food for thought. Pete.
  11. Thank you Mike, I've just searched your posts to find photos of your own crankshaft *. Me being me I forgot they were in this thread ! I am cloth-brained at times ..but I did find your and Carol's birthday greetings from September which I'd not seen before. Thank you. * Those photos of Brenda's old / now replaced crankshaft are < here > I need to take my 'other' car into the garage on Monday (engine went into limp mode on the way back from the engineering shop, and now a warning light is telling me something is not happy), but yes - thereafter I hope to get these engine parts across to another engine specialist here in Suffolk for their assessment. I can't really afford the additional cost, but equally I cannot take the knock to my state of mind which would be inevitable if I had to pull it all apart again, ..although from your own experience - it seems it has to be a long way out of balance before it's a matter of major concern ..or enough to stop you driving and enjoying Brenda. Iain and Michael, I'll report on the verdict / opinion of this other engine specialist, and only if I'm mistaken (..which I very much hope I am) and damage has been done - then I'll name the business. Otherwise it would be grossly unfair to name n' shame ..and then find out that they have actually done a good job. I'm sure you understand. Pete
  12. . Finally I got my Triumph engine parts back from the machine shop. But to be honest - I'm of mixed emotions ..because things were not exactly as I had expected. . . Cylinder head ; now has been pressure tested and the core plugs replaced. It now has hardened exhaust seats, re-cut inlet valve seats, NOS valves (all of them), NOS valve guides, and the cylinder-head gasket face has been skimmed. Good news is that it's now good to go (..I hope), unfortunate news is that the original valve guides were a better fit than these. I thought those from #3 cylinder, and possibly one of those in #4, were a little loose and so might need replacing - but instead they went ahead and changed them all ..and now the all valves feel as loose in the guides as those to #3 cylinder were.! As you see I haven't yet unwrapped the cling film - so I also haven't visually checked the valve seats or the job done. I guess next week I''ll do this and also refit the valve springs so that I might do a drain-down test ..just to ensure the valves are well bedded in. Aside from replacing all the valve guides, I also didn't ask them to, nor want them to skim the gasket face. I simply asked them to check it for trueness and to advise. I have no reason to suspect the old gasket had any issues so if it ain't broke - don't try to fix things. I don't know how much has been skimmed off but I had no desire to increase the compression ratio. I'm not overly happy. Crankshaft ; journals reground to 0.010", oil-way drilling plugs removed and cleaned out inside, and crankshaft assembly has been balanced.. But......... I specifically didn't want the main bearing to be reground. (only the big-ends). The mains didn't need it ..and I so bought original manufacturer NOS main bearing shells of a standard size ...Which Now Don't Fraking Well Fit ! That has me well and truly 'upset'. Balancing . . . Having seen the job done on Mike's TR4 (Brenda )'s crankshaft - which necessitated his having to buy a replacement ..because his had been previously 'balanced' so badly and was beyond retrieving - I now see this in mine. I fail to see how so much needed to be removed from the balancing Triumph had originally done ? It gets worse on the other end . . . ^ blue arrows indicate original balancing notches, the two red arrows indicate where these corners has now been angle-ground away. The one has actually cut into the ground side face of the journal. Again, I fail to see how so much needed to be removed from the balancing Triumph had originally done ? I am of a mindset that they have done the same damage as Mike's crankshaft endured.. I fear this crankshaft ..which ought still to be on its standard size main bearings, and first regrind on the big ends - is now scrap. I may be wrong but I really don't think so. To be sure - I now need to take it to another company to have it checked. Flywheel (right) is good (I think) and I am pleased. As requested - they turned the outer edge of the TR3 flywheel ..to reduce its overall diameter and to take the bolt-on TR4A starter gear ring. I'm told its metal was very hard indeed. With its starter ring, this is now 17lb in weight. As the standard spec was 31lb - I'm very happy with that weight saving. The flywheel seen here on the left is an already lightened TR4 one (which I borrowed for dimensions) which weighs in at 19lb. The gear ring weighs 3lb so altogether = 22lb. I would have been happy with that but it was not mine ..which is why I bought the TR3 one and had it reworked. The TR4 flywheel (left) is drilled for the 6-spring type clutch, my TR3 one has now been drilled for the diaphragm clutch. It was balanced independently and with the crankshaft. Overall the bill with VAT was £40 less than anticipated (all in all very close to £520 total), but until I know that crankshaft has not been ruined I'm left worrying. I also need to check dimensions and to find myself a set of +0.010 main bearing shells, so the final bill will end up more. Oh., and I need to drive back to the machine shop because they still have my con-rods and big end shells. My mistake as much as there's I should have remembered. There was no work to be done on them (I had weight matched them myself) but I supplied them so they might measure for themselves the exact big-end journal size required. That's all for tonight. Pete.
  13. . I've mainly been doing other stuff this week so just a little to update.. ^ A bachelor's home.. Mine has elements reminiscent of a production line. The two engine blocks of the engine's I'm rebuilding. Both I've tidied up in regard to filing the cooling fins and around the edges to diminish the appearance of knocks and scrapes incurred over the past 67 years, as well as some pretty awful original casting blights on the later case. The other / older one (to the right) was professional bead blasted, and will be used in Pudge ..the S7-deluxe Coronation window-display bike. The original to Nudge block - is the one I chemically cleaned and then used a scouring pad and degreaser on, and then last weekend - cosmetically disguised its broken top fin. Now there's not nearly the visual difference as it may appear here ..due to uneven lighting. ^ what I'm doing here is sorting / checking I have the components for each engine, along with all the correct fastenings and gaskets etc. It may seem obvious to keep all one bike's bits together, which on the whole has happened but these engines have been dismantled for quite a time now, and Pudge's was dismantled by someone else, and subsequently each box has been rummaged through looking for bits from Hovis which I sold in April springtime last year. The paper-type Oil filter is not standard, but is another little conversion I like to do on my own Sunbeams. I have to convert Nudge's engine yet so I'll come back and share details of that modification in a week or two. ^ Timing chains. The top of the three shown is a new one which illustrates how little it flexes sideways (no wear in its pins or links). The middle one is just slightly worn, and the bottom one is plainly just worn out. So there you go, as I say not a lot to report on this week, but enough "little steps at time" in the right direct ..and progress will finally be made. Wishing each and all of you a good weekend, Pete.
  14. Yes thanks ..I subsequently learnt of this . . Araldite® EP 300 A/B Adhesive is an extrudable, two-component, room temperature curing epoxy adhesive designed for service temperatures up to 400°F (204°C). This product is suitable for bonding a wide variety of materials such as metals, composites and many other dissimilar substrates.
  15. ..need cocktail umbrellas for those wine glasses
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