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Bfg

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About Bfg

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  • Location
    Suffolk, England
  • Cars Owned:
    ..has to be a TR4A

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  1. The 1950's Sunbeam motorcycles I ride have an all alloy engine with a cast aluminium sump. The engine is 'wet sump' and because its oil capacity is marginal (many of us think 'inadequate') it is common practice to fit a 20mm cast aluminium spacer (sump extension) between the sump and the engine case, to increase the engine's oil capacity by a useful percentage (15 - 20% comes to mind). The consequential effect on running temperature (improved cooling) is negligible ..But, because of the additional capacity - the oil does take longer to warm up from cold. When the bike is being used mainly f
  2. A oft-mentioned argument against the use of an aluminium sump is that castings tend to be (relatively) fragile to impact. ie. they can fracture or puncture a hole through with consequential very-rapid loss of engine oil. The original pressed steel ones will take a whole lot of bashing, and that may lead them to seep a little oil ..but unless you're very unlucky indeed, total loss is unlikely. Accordingly, not recommended. Improved cooling is better achieved in other ways. Pete
  3. Cheers Andy. If the threads pull out then I may well consider through-drilling and fitting a spacer-tube inside the chassis-rail to prevent it from crushing. But as each of these mounts will be sitting on reinforced-rubber body-washers - the tension on their screw threads ought not be excessive, and the double plate depth of the rear inside corner ought to dissuade those bolts from tilting under shear load. I cannot see a torque specified in the workshop manual for body mounts but I'd suspect 6 - 8 ft.lb. would be ample ..which is really very little. Pete.
  4. ^ Thanks Gareth. After a couple of days off, this afternoon I did a little pottering around rather than real work. Thought I'd deal with the T-shirt plate. Whether or not anyone else thinks having the top (TR6) T-shirt plate on a TR4A chassis is worth the bother is not really the issue - It is something I wanted as part of my IRS-chassis mods., so this afternoon I set to bolting it in place. . . ^ first up I decided to drill and tap into the chassis, where the TR5 & 6 have their seat belt mounting hole. The T-shirt plate was drilled to just clear a 5/16" UNF
  5. Thanks Mike, Thanks Steve, I am well pleased with this Johnston's red paint. And with it being spirit rather than water based I hope it'll stick well and then do its job ..which of course is to help shed dust and moisture. This afternoon was pretty darn chilly out but lots of break-dancing type spinning around under the back of the car kept that well at bay. Unfortunately though I had more welding to do, which I'd spotted before - but now was the opportunity. . . ^ again the MOT man with the white stick missed this loose body mount, even though it was very much clea
  6. I can't believe the psychological difference this flash topcoat of paint, underside the car, has on me. My attitude is changing from the car being an "acceptably tidy car from 10 -15ft away" to a car that is being 'nicely restored and is well on the way to being a good example' ..whereas in truth I'm just tarting her up in places ..where no gentleman ought to look. Not only that but I'm actually enjoying doing this painting, despite it entailing my crawling around on the floor like a fat pink worm on cold concrete slabs ! hey ho., I hope to enjoy it ..for however long this refreshin
  7. ^ Thanks Stuart. Guessed They might have been TR6 floors, didn't think about the TR5 ..most likely because i think of that as being the rarest.
  8. Aargh.. Now I'm really seeing RED ! . . . . . . Have a good evening, Pete p.s. I tried to give it a stipple finish but it didn't work very well.
  9. No that's fine Stuart, I understood - Thank you that's what I thought.. The TR6 has the body mounting Moss chassis illustration # 109 to 112, and then the seat belt fastens through to the chassis to the pair of holes with captive nuts immediately behind those. The floors in Katie have the holes for the TR6 seat belt stems to be fastened through. Cheers, Pete
  10. sorry my confusing grammar .. ie., they were not " etch primed and then finished with a good quality harsh-environment paint" either
  11. Thanks Stuart. Much appreciated. Do the TR6 seat belts not anchor through the floor panel and into the chassis then ? As I bought her Katie had L-shaped brackets for its inner seat belt anchorages. The bolts were too long and so prevented the seat from moving further back, so I turned the bolts around to clear. During the chassis swap the L-shaped brackets were swapped for screwed in rings (eye-bolts) into the side of the tunnel, which would have worked nicely with the earlier type of clip-on seat belt. However, mine are a retractable type, and so I now have the seat-belt bolts into t
  12. Thanks Andy, lending a lifting hand is a kind thought. Mark at M&T was doing his upmost to work within my limited budget. He runs a small business that subcontracts out various tasks, and despite being in the Midlands has struggled to find competent employees for certain positions, in particular a really conscientious spanner man, so he's been sub-contracting a mechanic to help out. Any such business relies on the integrity of each and every member of the team. If a man forgets a weld, to do a bolt up, or to fit some strips of rubber, then the Manager hopes to spot it before it's
  13. Thanks Hamish, My attention to detail is it seems a handicap which can often be difficult to live with. Had the panel been bonded, as on modern cars, would have helped my mindset - had it been a body part rather than on a weak spot of the IRS chassis ..but still to use seam sealer ! ? Interestingly, or not, I note that the TR5 / 6 appears to have an additional pair of body mount through that T-shirt plate, indicated by the rubber pads on the Moss parts drawing < here > as 113 or 114. The TR4A doesn't have this second pair.
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