Bfg
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I designed a very similar looking cab when I worked for Cab-Tech in the early 90's. Our client was Simon-Gloster-Saro (the latter part of the merge were formerly the aircraft manufacturers). I fell out with the the owner of cab-Tech ..big time., when he insisted on entitling our tender for the contract a 'crash-cab'. It wasn't. It was a weather cab of tubular steel clad with aluminium. Although I conceived its quite substantial tubular steel structure to include three continuous loops (roll-over bars) over the cab (which the above design clearly doesn't have in their side windows) - I dou
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Colour in the tin looks to be a pleasantly darker shade of conifer-green on this screen. Out in the daylight will reveal all. I'm sure it'll look superb. Excellent work Jase. Pete
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Thank you Marco. ..and I like your gearbox modification In my personal experience - This is inaccurate. "Metal will rust" ..but the one I reused was already 65 years old and it'll most likely last another 65+ years before it'll need restoring. Conversely, polyester resin (fibreglass) will break down when exposed to stress & heat over that many years. Epoxy resins ought to fare better, but judging by its modest price and the accompanying website photographs - the brand recommended is of polyester. The gearbox cover is not like the floors of the car where rain water mig
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Thank John, Thanks Stuart.
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cool
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Yes indeed, most fibreglass boats are similarly white, which although a pain to keep clean in many waters ..and their decks ridiculously bright on the eyes, it does hide the imperfections. I wonder if your fibreglass moulding is of a better quality than this one. Despite the repair, across the top it now looks fine. But all around the bottom it's very wavy. I've improved its bottom front corners but had to face the fact that I'd be better off starting again (using it to make a new mould, and then taking a decent moulding out of it). Doing that would be another time consuming project,
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A quick pictorial update . . . ^ Fibreglassed underside to the frame, where I'd used masking tape to extend the flange. As you can see the resultant extra width of that was 3 to 4mm and instead of being 1mm thick it is now around 3mm thick. With the extra thickness the frame was much stiffer than it had been, so I opted to not fit wood, or other means to prevent it from twisting. Despite my original intent, and Stuart's endorsement of doing so, the lid's T-bar worked well before to prevent twisting, and so I felt little motivation to change things. ^ Having
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I did the same on Katie, although I've taken the timber facia and glove-box lid off. A TomTom with 9" screen conveniently sits in the glove box upon a cloth, all the power lead coiled up behind it. When parked I just put my woolly hat in the lid-less glove box to hide the TomTom away.
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I'm guessing Jase recognises there's not an issue with stone chipping under the bonnet, so is wondering if Stoneguard would be a good substitute for, better looking than, and less prone to peeling off when hot, than the stick-on panel anti-drum pads.? a tad more bonnet weight -versus- a quieter car. If the stays were masked off as it were applied, so the stoneguard was just on the underside of the skin panel, and then Hardura faced felt (sound absorbancy) were applied over those areas. The stoneguard might be effective anti-drum ?? ..adhering well but unseen. Black Hardura would
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I'd suggest that even original colours are subject to great variation anyway, according to year, batch and manufacturer ..and so it makes little difference if a car's colour is a standard or custom. Particularly where the blend and mix ratios are known. Fading (depending on the proximity of industry &/or coast, the climate and quality of light) and yellowing of paintwork changes hues and tones yet again, as to a certain extend does the primer undercoat. Arguably quanties of lead and other additives in those can have a long term effect on colour fastness. Fading of course tend to hap
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Thank you. I've registered my interest. Pete
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Thanks Stuart & Roger. No complaint, just an observation from someone who used to own a fibreglassing business, and took pride in the quality of their product. And.., leaving the front catch undone (the cause of the damage) was the fault of the plonker driving the car at that particular moment. He.. being the same plonker who'll have to fix it now. I also have no idea who made this backlight. I bought it from a chap who had sold their primrose yellow TR6 ..who had bought it with the car. Who knows perhaps it was made sometime back in the last century ! ? Pete
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Hi,
A couple of years ago you posted on behalf of a friend about 98 YKX Red TR4 1962. I think he had just purchased the car and you wanted to know some history. I actually owned this car from the late eighties for 11 years. I do have some history as well.
Maybe via this forum you can put me in touch with the owner, Happy to fill in any gaps about the car that I can. I still own triumphs, currently running a TR4A.
cheers!
Adrian
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It's a busy time of year ..but still I'm now close to finishing up on Katie's gearbox cover .. Firstly though, I had to close over the speedo drive. . . ^ again trying to make things close fitting / less intrusive into the interior. There was a little more work in making this a removable access cover, but really not a whole lot. My difficulty was in shaping the thin material (a reclaimed panel from the back of a boiler) as its steel was far less ductile than the original cover, and so somewhat reluctant to shape into a neat compound surface. ^ I also drill
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As far as I am aware . . . The TR4 and later cover was made in fibre-board. GRP ones are replacements. The side-screen cars had steel gearbox covers. The sidescreen cars do not have a H-frame, nor did the Italia or Doretti. The steel TR3 gearbox cover sits flat onto the floor, whereas the TR4 and later models have a raised lip around the floor's edge of the gearbox tunnel. The TR3 cover when fitted to a TR4 sits on this raised lip ..and so is high by about 12mm. The front edge of the TR3 cover has a 90-deree flange around it. The cover is fastened through this flange
