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Bfg

TR Register Members
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About Bfg

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  • Location
    Suffolk, England
  • Cars Owned:
    ..has to be a TR4A

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  1. I cannot disagree with you Stuart, regarding what a 'plug chop' is ..but I'd contest whether it is necessary to do so, to assess the colour of the plugs. My own practice is to power-wire-brush the plugs clean before driving to the club meeting (some 27 miles away for me). Of course, I then drive home after the event.. and when I arrive home - I promptly cut the engine. Fortunately the ground here is level enough to then push / roll the car into the garage. And I check the plugs the following day, or whenever. This journey is representative of my normal driving ; usual revs and e
  2. As Mike says, his.. "exhaust was blowing around my manifold in the engine bay". If a TR4 exhaust is blowing around the manifold then it too will tend to let fumes through the bulkhead and possibly an ill sealed gearbox tunnel too.
  3. That's useful to learn. Thanks Peter Pete
  4. I had this with the forward carb on Katie my TR4 Only after I disconnected the (underneath) tie-bar which operates the the choke ..at the bottom bracket on the jet - the full screw adjustment of the jet was possible. ^ Then, the end nut (nearest the forward carb) on the cross linkage to the choke was loosened, to re-adjust the position of that (underneath) tie-bar ..so its bottom screw hole aligned with that of the bracket on the jet. That done, I could adjust each of the twin carb's jets - so each of the spark-plug colours matched and the twin-carb fine balance achieve
  5. Just thought I'd contribute on that old acorn 'outdoor car covers'. A search on this forum for 'car cover' will hit 176 posts but as I've just bought one, I thought I'd add to those pages. When the TR is in the garage, the other car sits out in all weathers... The purchase of this car cover was prompted by my 'modern's MoT (..it's a 2010 car, which is modern to me !). With the very kind help of Rich C-R, I bought it in mid-February last year, to replace my aged Chrysler Grand Voyager whose steering-rack seal had failed.., in short this car's MoT, road-tax and insurance are all n
  6. I use date format for saved documents, but in the year-month-date format ie., 25-01-23th ..so then the the computer automatically lists them in alpha-numerically order. It derived from my working on Autocad (and other) design programs, where work would span day or weeks. It was the most reliable and convenient way to always pick up from the latest amendments. Now I use it for everyday filing and when writing (..as an amateur novelist). You'll note that I've (long since) dropped recording which century I'm working in. With a lifespan of 70 to 100 years it doesn't really seem relevant
  7. I suspect the reason for that hole was more a matter of when driving into rain - when the gutter may fill to overflowing water into the under-bonnet space. So what ! ? I note on Katie there is no rear drain hole for the NS front wing's gutter, and the hole through the OS wing is 1/4" above the bottom of the gutter anyway. Despite prolonged journeys in the rain, I've never noted an excess of water running into the engine bay from either side. Personally I'd just ignore them (which is probably 'original'), or close the holes off with a piece of tape, or putty. That's much easier than s
  8. Nope, for the windscreen. The screen's A-posts clamp at the side tubes under the dashboard and then there are also clamps across the front on top of the dashboard, by the air vents. I don't know about the dash top pad, but to remove it - I think it may require the TR4A's wooden facia to be released from the steel dashboard frame, and that does not need everything disconnected. Pete
  9. That would be a great loss to the UK TR Register's forum. I protest if this is forced upon you. Peter
  10. The simple tool which I already had (..but never tried before) was a shim from the suspension held with a pair of long nose vice grips. . . I anticipated this was going to be a pain-in-the-arse task, especially with my not having the correct tool ..so I mentally prepared myself (anger management) by expecting to drop every clip into the bottom of the door four times. I refitted the (old) inside felt before attempting the outer lip seal. Note., the inner felt uses different clips to the outside lip seal. I found it went back on quite easily by firstly loosely fitting the c
  11. I'm with the mechanical fan fraternity, and endorse Marco's suggestion of using a moulded plastic fan, with a shroud around it, as being best. I hadn't fitted a shroud, and I use a TR6 seven-blade fan (which bolted straight on to the four cylinder engine), although I did have a fan extension lathe-turned from aluminium to achieve a much better balance and for less weight hanging off the end of the crankshaft.
  12. In case it's helpful to you Paul, I swapped the diff on my 4A (essentially the same) .. < here > Pete
  13. Cheers Peter, I wasn't planning on leaving the Register or the TSSC, but thank you anyway. Pete
  14. What you missed the startling events of the last minute ! ? Nope.. As Mike says ; Katie didn't reach reserve, despite this being the lower value suggested by Car and Classics. It reached £18,000 some 4-1/2 hours before the end of auction (which was Friday at 8pm) .. but then no more bidders. As C&C step-up the bids in £1000 increments above the previous, I don't know what that final bidder had actually placed. When £14,000 is the lowest price for a TR4 not described as a project, and £28k is the mean value of the TR4 and 4A presently advertised in C&C's UK classifie
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