Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited


About Bfg

Profile Information

  • Location
    Suffolk, England
  • Cars Owned:
    ..has to be a TR4A

Recent Profile Visitors

2,328 profile views
  1. Hi Colin, I don't know whether you have a 4 or 4A. Their wiring have numerous differences, less in design than in colour coding ..assuming your car is positive earth. I'm guessing yours is a 4A unless of course its wooden dashboard was retrofitted. The black wires I have behind my 4A's dash are the earths for the instrument illumination lamps, and also an earth from the heater blower. The brown wires I have under dash are to the ammeter. (..Rob that blob in Colin's photo is I believe the air-vent-lever's knob). The thick brown wire to the Ammeter goes off to the starter sole
  2. No problem with me Keith I was just saying like. And like yourself, I've had far more issues due to neglect, moisture, and prior-owner's efforts n' upgrades than with the original components ..including switches, sensors, dynamo & regulator, distributors, lamp assemblies, etc ..some which on my motorcycles are possibly 70 years old, and perhaps 50+ years old on the TR. I, like I'm sure many of us, would be glad very much like to help Melvyn get to the bottom of this problem, but I fear too many helpers in the kitchen have detracted from the pragmatic process of elimination. S
  3. Is it not rather unfair to continue this slandering of Lucas then ? ..particularly as so many after-market components, even those made half-a-century later, have such an unenviable reputation. So many times I've heard something to the effect of "rebuild the original, or buy genuine NOS, don't buy a new one - even those in Lucas packaging - they are xxxx !" ..just saying like. Pete
  4. Not a whole lot to report on, not least because I've been lazy these past few days and have enjoyed reading a book (well., half way so far). That's not something I've done very often in my lifetime, mostly I think because as a dyslexic my reading ability has always been incredibly slow. However, as I've written more over these past few years, it seems to have greatly improved. Still, aside from a dozen or so car orientated books, I guess I've only ever completely read a dozen or so others ..including the bible and those required in schooling, so it is enlightening and refreshing to now be
  5. ^ Surfacing tissue applied, ready for tomorrow's heavier glass-fibre laminates. Again, this very fine glass-fibre 'tissue' is being used as a first layer - because it's better able to follow the shape over hard corners and down into local depressions in the pattern. Often cars and hardtops made in fibreglass have very rounded panel and edge definitions ..and so look like fibreglass cars. The objective here, is to make a Surrey-top lid with the edge-definitions of a steel or aluminium panel ..which to my eyes looks more authentic on a a 1960's classic. Only by physically touching th
  6. Me too Gareth.! ^ As the moulding cures a little more in the polytunnel's warmth under the honeysuckle ..and for just an hour or so this Sunday afternoon, I did a little more, starting with my removing the windscreen frame's cap rail. . . ^ This is the TR6 type cap rail, without the front overhang for the fabric Surrey top (which creates a wind noise above 50mph), but with its dip recesses for the securing clamps (in these photos the masking tape is covering the holes). I've waxed it a couple of times with Mirrorglaze and filled over the rivet / screw holes with raised bl
  7. Eng, my experience of condensers is that they work well, or they fail. A failing condenser is quite apparent when prising the points open and the point's spark is a bright flash rather than a subdued sharp one. I've personally not had one which only fails when the engine gets hot .. after 12 miles. Likewise the distributor cap and rotor arm. I can leave my car ticking over for 20 minutes and it'll get much warmer than when I'm driving along. This time of year the car's engine would be already hot much sooner than 12 miles. Might I ask - what cooling fan you have on your car ? And do yo
  8. Along with Marco I'm also old fashioned, and sometimes wonder where common politeness and the courtesy of an address by name and perhaps even a 'thank-you for trying to help' now n' then, gets left behind on a club forum. Anonymity has its place, but if your Christian, first, or nick-name is too anxious a prospect - then the use of a pseudo-name may be appropriate. Even John Doe & Jane Doe have one of those ! I'll further add, that if you are near Ipswich, Suffolk then I would come across in my TR4A to give you hands-on / two heads together assistance. perhaps comparing the two cars
  9. Well I got the new gel-coat and surfacing tissue in and so could proceed with work on the Surrey-top lid on Thursday. Tbh it didn't go well, perhaps because I was trying to get things done in a rush before I went out at midday. I didn't make that appointment because me be me.. I first wanted to do a little more flatting on the inside of the mould. Looking afresh at the inside surface - I decided to rubbed it down some more with 320 grit wet n' dry and then to go over it again with 600 grit. That done I was behind schedule by an hour, but still keen to get the job done and to go out. My
  10. I used a 1/4" drive socket. I think it is 5/16"
  11. I recommend you remove this filter (perhaps replace it with a piece of metal pipe with jubilee clips) to ensure the fuel is free flowing / the pipe is clear of debris (..rust particles from the tank for example). NB. this pipe and the fuel filter should be full of fuel and so a large clean container is required to catch the petrol. My reasoning is ; the fuel tank is above the rear-axle ..and so its fuel level is above the fuel pump. The petrol is gravity-fed to the pump, and then the pump lifts it to the carburetors. Because the fuel is gravity fed to the pump.. it follows that the (sup
  12. For what it's worth.., a quick on-line check < here > of flow through a 6mm pipe, of 1m long, at 0.10 bar (approximately 1.5psi ) suggests an output flow rate of .278 litres / minute. That of course equates to (..0.278 x 60 = ) 16.68 litres / hour = 3.67 gals (imp) / hr. It is of course easy enough to check these flow-rate figures (which were complied for bigger bores and longer lengths of pipe) by cranking the engine (with plugs out and the low-tension lead off the coil) with the pump's fuel pipe leading to a clean coffee jar for half-a-minute. After which you should see about
  13. Not a lot happening on the Eastern front. The Surrey-lid's mould is still curing as i await fresh gelcoat to come in ..and as planned I've diverted my attentions to working on the boat. . . ^ the 30ft catamaran is mine, and she was first commissioned in 1972. I bought her knowing structural work was required, and I've done 99% of that now, so it's 'just' a case of replacing the systems, putting together the new rudders I've made, adding safety lines, refurbishing the rig and most likely replacing all the sails, and recommissioning or replacing the outboard motor. Well that's not
  14. I'd concur with Rob, and suspect the coil failing when it gets hot. We have the same symptoms on vintage Sunbeam motorcycles, which place the coil out-of-the-weather in 'an electrical box' ..which in turn prevent air flow over it. On these bike it typically runs for about 6 miles from cold and then stops, until allowed to cool ..and then it will restart easily enough, run for another few miles and then stop again. Over the years, some owners had replaced the original with a (cheaper) smaller coil off the diminutive BSA Bantam and that fails even sooner. Possibly, the easiest way to check th
  15. Thanks Ed, I learnt a whole lot from your own Bullfire web-pages. I am indebted to you for sharing, inspiring, and educating. Much respect Pete
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.