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About Bfg

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  • Location
    Suffolk, England
  • Cars Owned:
    ..has to be a TR4A

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  1. Adrian, You wrote that you've centered and correctly adjusted the tracking of the front wheels and you've road tested the car, and then "This has already improved the overall feel and it doesn’t pull either way and it feels like all the wheels are going in the same direction with self centering reasonable." I took this to mean that you no longer have an issue with steering or handling, but you still had to address the unsatisfactory state of assembly and shimming. You don't mention whether the toe-in of the rear wheels has yet been checked. Otherwise, I've not much to add to my p
  2. Thank you.. you made me crack a smile there. A truly nostalgic moment.. "you want to bet ? " ..I haven't heard that counter-argument since I was a 13-year-old schoolboy.
  3. Not so, the amount of change to any of this geometry is defined, so for example the author of Buckeye Triumph article writes "The 0.44” spacer raised the height 0.8” and increased the camber (in a positive direction) by a little over one degree". I've read the same with regard to the Triumph 2000 rear suspension "Every 0.725” lower at the wheel results in 1 degree of negative camber". If my car's ride height were 6" out, then the geometric change would be a little more complicated, as it's non linear, but as Katie's is within 1 to 1-1/12" of being right, then the variation to cambe
  4. Sorry I don't understand. How does a chassis rail get pinched by the bush / pivot bolt ? Pete
  5. Yesterday was interesting, but not as productive as I hoped ..and my back now aches something rotten. Nevertheless here we go . . . Ignoring for a moment the ride height, which I hoped might be helped a little, with what I was about to do - the challenge was to adjust the rear wheel's positive camber. But firstly, I needed to ascertain where we were at. ^ eight approx 8kg night storage-heater bricks in each seat, half a tank of fuel, the spare wheel and another 15kg of weight in the boot to simulate normal load conditions. The car is on the level having been ro
  6. Thank you for your kind words David, You make it sound as if this thread is a constant tale of woe and despair, whereas I would like to think it has also shared Hope, enthusiasm, and many experiences with a host of good and kind people, some of whom have become friends. And then, from my part, there's been a whole lot of learning about these cars ..and the purchase of a beautiful (albeit yet to be sorted out) car called Katie. Most of this journey has been enjoyable, but then the frustrations have been equally profound too. It is, I think, an honest appraisal of classic car (..or mot
  7. Adrian, good morning. I'd agree with both Stuart suggestions and John's query. In regard to the packing and rack adjustment - the prior owner must have been trying to fix something ..and then accepted what was obviously wrong to him in trying to achieve a better result. Clearly you recognise this as you have being looking for signs of accident damage. I presume you have looked closely at the wishbones and the link arms from the steering rack to see if they are not bent, perhaps as a result of impact with road debris. As you don't mention it I gather there is nothing obvious.
  8. Thanks Gareth, just as reference ; the car presently has its spare wheel in, usual tool kit, jack etc, 5 ltrs of water and 5 ltrs of oil in the boot (still from when I collected the car). Hood is on the car (it's a TR6 hood frame), and there's 3/4 tank of fuel. Two standard seats are in, but no carpets or side trim panels, no bumpers or their irons. Apologies if my posts appear critical of M&T. That was not my intent. only to report what I've been doing. I'll watch my tone in future. Again, I emphasis that my budget was/is very limited, and this was not a full restoration. Mar
  9. ^ which case is that John ? If it's in regard to neatness .. Rowlocks. On a 1950's sports car I think Peter W's looks every bit the part. And I should think in an under-bonnet photo, showing the engine bay with inner arches and bulkhead, then that insulation would not be detrimental to the overall impression, nor hardly be noticed insomuch as the exhaust down-pipes are barely seen under the inlet manifolds, carbs and linkages. And anyway, as Peter says. . ie., he's used wrapping that was made for the job ..and thought to be very worthwhile by the aircraft engineers, but
  10. Yesterday Mathew (Puma-powered Spitfire ..from the TSSC ), very kindly drove down from Norfolk to give us a hand. Two minds looking at the same problems from different experience-perspectives, as well as another pair of hands when measuring toe-in, camber and tracking, was very useful and he's good company and an interesting chap to hang out with. Mathew also has toe-in checking equipment which gave definitive, if at some times a little confusing, data. I might add that the confusion was mostly on my part because I'd never used such no-smoke-&-one-mirror tricks before. I'm old school
  11. Thanks Stuart. Half-shaft has now been swapped out.. ^ the original from this car (top) and one I bought hoping it was OK below. fingers crossed. Rear springs now swapped out for those that were originally on the car. Five hours later, as I had to first swap the wheels studs over, and then had issues with one of the six studs holding the hub to the trailing-arm being loose / a stripped thread, the sliding handbrake mechanisms having no lubrication, and then again the handbrake cable mounting on the top of the trailing-arm being loose, no washer under it, and a bindin
  12. Ah the position or size of the splines. Brilliant. I'm hoping to swap out the whole half-shaft so that ought not be an issue. I do, very much, appreciate your prompt reply as I've just raised the car on stands and am just about to tackle it. Pete.
  13. Thanks Stuart, "in where they join" ?? do you mean the stud pattern of where they bolt onto the diff ?
  14. Can anyone advise if the 4A half shafts are handed ? or whether it's good or bad practice to put them on the other side.? One of mine has a seriously worn and clonking spline and so while I have the spring out, it makes sense to swap out the shaft ..if in fact the used ones I bought are actually off a 4A rather than TR6. I don't know yet if there is any difference but I would have thought the latter's were more robust to take that car's 150bhp. Thanks, Pete
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