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About peejay4A

  • Birthday April 25

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A (Eric) current, TR6 (CP) gone, TR4 (frying tonight) long gone.

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  1. Ages ago I saw blue Hylomar spray recommended and I’ve used it every time since then.
  2. Maybe try a fill from a different Esso station.
  3. Just by the by, it’s CDD.
  4. Tried the air valve trick, and about every other one. No joy. Probably due to my Burgess head mods. I now use IanC’s suggested solution. Foot brake hard down, 3rd gear, drag the clutch ever so slightly and switch off.
  5. I should have read your post more carefully. The noise disappears if you cover the breather. It sounds to me a bit like a glugging sound so I wonder if it’s an oil circulation thing. Engine cold noisy, warm the noise disappears. That also fits with reducing the oil pressure. What’s the pressure at start up and when fully warm? Oil level high?
  6. When the brakes are applied the shoes will initially try to move ever so slightly in the direction of rotation. If the open end of the clip was facing in the other direction there’s a small chance that any small movement of the shoes would dislocate the clip.
  7. “Out of interest where do you go for your news?” Seems to cut both ways to me.
  8. I modified a catch from a Peugeot 309 (I think) hatchback. Just a bit of hacksawing and drilling. It’s a loop and very strong. No problems in 7 years.
  9. +2. I fitted a front arb to Eric and suffered the extra under steer for a while. I’ve now fitted a rear arb and turn in is better than my Audi S3. Not difficult because it understeers quite a bit. The TR is much more fun in corners. Not so much in a straight line though.
  10. Agreed. It’ll probably be considerably easier to add shims to the lower wishbone mounts. No dismantling required.
  11. They look like bike carbs to me, Keihins maybe? If so the description is misleading.
  12. It’s the “single blink then turn” people that drive me nuts.
  13. I read that as Hip Hop. Sorry Sue.
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