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About peejay4A

  • Birthday April 25

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A (Eric) current, TR6 (CP) gone, TR4 (frying tonight) long gone.

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  1. I fitted Alasdair’s (CDD) power steering conversion a few months ago to Eric (4A). I modified the fluid reservoir mounting to suit my car. A minor bit of inner wing manipulation was required to accommodate the hydraulic ram pin. I’m very pleased with the result. The cars is now very nimble.
  2. Likewise on Eric. They work well.
  3. Worst case situation: I just replaced my aluminium tank, same provider iirc, suspecting a micro crack in a weld. There was no visible evidence of a leak but it doesn't take much to create a stink. The replacement steel tank is smell free.
  4. Iirc it’s a known issue that the top ball joints begin to bind up at full suspension droop.
  5. With front and rear arb on Eric, and lowered a touch, I can resonate to the above. On a decent road surface I like the handling but a few days on the NC500 got a bit choppy.
  6. Here you go John. Eric has two of these. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/FORD-ESCORT-MK1-MK2-GROUP-4-STEERING-COUPLING-KNUCKLE-UNIVERSAL-JOINT-NL-/154324823829?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&_trksid=p2349624.m46890.l49286&mkrid=710-127635-2958-0
  7. Mine’s not like that Roger. I followed Alan’s advice and it’s first pull for slow, second pull for fast. This also means that you start on full torque and don’t overrun the park position when you switch off. It might not be as the handbook states but it’s preferable.
  8. CDD here too for several years now. All good.
  9. That is indeed JO’G. The weather was grim if I’m honest. A consequence of going out of season to avoid too many RVs. High levels of concentration and patience required. If I were to do it again (unlikely) I’d take twice as long and stop more often. The road surface in parts is appalling. If your car needs a shakedown this is the route to drive.
  10. Returned home today from doing the NC500. 1569 miles in all. The Applecross pass was “interesting”.
  11. If it has never worked properly the column might have been assembled with the clip out of alignment. The clip only fits in one position on the upper column, it’s located by a dimple in the column. With wheels straight ahead the cancelling clip “nib” should be midway between the two sprung parts of the switch. You should be able to see it with a torch. If it isn’t correct you need to split the column at one of the splined connectors under the bonnet, align the upper column to place the nib between the sprung bits then reconnect the splined connector. Then you’ll have to remove and replace the
  12. To complicate the discussion a bit, I use DOT 5.1.
  13. Make sure the tapered mating faces of the hub and wheel are dry. Grease can find its way from the splines onto them. Then give an extra belt with the copper hammer.
  14. I did the same in Eric. The push switch operates a VW programmed wash/wipe relay.
  15. Dashlane works for me across multiple devices. You get a free VPN too.
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