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peejay4A

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About peejay4A

  • Birthday April 25

Profile Information

  • Location
    Warwickshire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A (Eric) current, TR6 (CP) gone, TR4 (frying tonight) long gone.

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  1. It’s tightened by raising the centre bar of the H frame. That’s done by moving the nuts at the rear where the H frame meets the backlight. Fiddly unless you have a pair of Roger’s (tubular) nuts in which case it’s a breeze.
  2. Mine uses a thyristor to latch the overdrive on until you pass through neutral and the thyristor turns off. No moving parts. Not as fully functional as some but it avoids accidentally bogging down.
  3. +1 for Peter Burgess’ work.
  4. From experience (admittedly limited), in practice the paper clip will bend before it sets the pins. You might get lucky with a sloppy lock but only if your tensioning is spot on. A pick set is cheap.
  5. Get a cheap lock pick set from eBay or Amazon. Tumbler locks are quite easy. I recently needed to open a filing cabinet and did it in under a minute.
  6. Alternatively and avoiding removing the ammeter from the dash, get yourself a small neodymium magnet and attach it to the back of the instrument panel near the meter. Move it around until the needle is centred. Get a cup of tea. It's not guaranteed to work but it did for me on my TR6.
  7. Someone once said that size isn't important.
  8. And a simple bracket picks up on one of the bumper iron fixings.
  9. I have them at the rear in the bumper iron apertures.
  10. Can you post a picture of the dashcam?
  11. I was going to ask why Sue bought you a battlefield communications system, albeit now obsolete - but I’ll just get me coat.
  12. I refurbished the internals. The only consequence is that they lock and unlock in the “wrong” sense but you get used to that.
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