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Everything posted by Bfg

  1. Today : Helmingham Hall & Gardens, Suffolk - Festival of Classic and Sports cars ( an event in support of charities) . . . ^ Katie joined in with the TR Register's Abbott & Stour group of very nice people with very nice cars .. TR6s, Peerless, TR7-V8, and of course a TR4A ..with half a roof panel. It's an excellent informal type show despite some pretty exotic and equally as diverse cars being allowed in, which this year enjoyed sublime weather which.. by the end of the day sort of radiates from my fresh lobster-like complexion. And because of that, I was oblige
  2. Sorry, but I know nothing more. I received no reply from this thread and have not pursued other avenues like trying to contact the prior owner to Bob Bell (who I bought the car off) nor the DVLA or the various club registrars to see if they might furnish any further history. Do let us know if you have better luck. Pete
  3. Today : Helmingham Hall & Gardens, Suffolk - Festival of Classic and Sports cars ( an event in support of charities) .. 10am - 4pm for £10 On Saturday 20th August - Katie and I hope to be at the TRAAB (..TR's alternative annual bash) @ The Great British Car Journey, Ambergate, Derbyshire. as on the Sunday we hope to witness a reenactment of The Battle of Bosworth ( c.1485 if I recall my history) and the Bosworth Medieval Festival weekend, just an hour's drive south in Leicestershire. Hope to see some of you at one or the other event. Pete ..and Katie
  4. I don't know what the pressure switch is set to on Katie's, it is adjustable ..as supplied, but I haven't adjusted it. It is provided by TR Enterprise < here > ..presently Out Of Stock. This switch is, I believe, the same as that supplied by Merlin Motorsports < here > who claim it to be pre-set at 35psi (2.4 bar). Whatever Katie's is set to (and these switches are adjustable), it goes out immediately upon starting the car. The lowest I've seen on the car's (original and not checked for accuracy) oil pressure gauge - when the car was used around town in really hot weath
  5. ^ certainly nothing looks terribly amiss in SimmoTR's avatar photo.
  6. Toe in is fine and possibly a just little more than required to counter bump steer. Caster is probably not very adjustable anyway, and wheel camber is pretty obvious visually ..if they are leaning too far in or out. Likewise your tyre pressures would not be reason for too light a steering. 2.5 turns lock to lock is the same as for the earlier TR4, with 16" steering wheel, and a 33ft turning circle. This would have been more direct (responsive) but heavier steering than later cars whose rack changed to 3-1/2 turn to turn. As Mike says .. I presume the car's ride height
  7. I'm well impressed ..very nicely done Jim. Pete
  8. ..if it were used on the same car
  9. in short - yep, although it's likely that the robustness of build, the cut of those gears and the bearings used would effect its operational friction.
  10. It's in the gearing ratio of the rack and pinion. So a rack with gearing ratio calculated to work with a heavier (front wheel drive ?) car, with a small steering wheel and fat tyres (lots of scrub at parking speed) and McPherson struts will feel very light on a lightweight car with a 15" steering wheel and tall skinny 15" tyres, wishbone suspension & trunnions. Even more so when their castor angles are different, as might be anticipated with different types of suspension and when the steering-arm length has to fit within different size and offsets of road wheel. Pete
  11. just a thought or two .. Have you checked the amount of front wheel tracking, castor and camber of the car ? ..as these will not only effect the directional stability but also the feel (lightness) of the steering. And are the steering lever-arms original.? ..again if the relative position of the track-rod ends has been altered then the feel of the steering will be different. Pete
  12. Half a tank of petrol will enough for a good run to a somewhere good n' interesting. Only problem then., is that you need another half-tank to get you home again.! Those lever-arm links could work out to be quite expensive ..but fun ! Pete
  13. Well done Chris, I'm sure with your specialism and enthusiasm for the TR7 - it'll be a better than new car pretty soon. I look forward to seeing it in the flesh at one of the shows. Pete
  14. I just place the jack, via a block of timber, under that side's brake drum with the car sitting level and the other wheels/tyres each on the ground. Okay Katie is IRS ..so jacking under the diff would have been useless anyway, but surely supporting under the brake-drum or spring-clamp would set the axle static-load condition of a live axle equally as well.? As Ralph suggests you might want to preload the car, if only for the driver's weight placed onto the car seat + half a tank of fuel. Pete
  15. Odd to see a motorway without safety barriers. So much more pleasant ..and so it was changed !
  16. Hi Andrew, I have my heater valve screwed straight into the cylinder head, rather than using the bent bit of gas pipe to raise it up . . . ^ but then I have to remove the valve to torque the cylinder head down . As you can see this valve head is more compact than the original, but still overlaps. I might only presume that the bent-pipe-extension was specifically intended to offer clear access to that stud. ^ removing the valve is no big deal, once the threads are clean and lubricated, but possibly most owners would prefer not to part-drain the coolant just for the
  17. I was out in Katie yesterday, albeit only along the A14 a couple of junctions to Curry's in search of an external hard drive that would be compatible with both windows XP and windows-11. I then did potter around with doing grocery shopping before stopping off on the way home for fish n' chips. The 4's temperature, with the TR6 seven blade fan was reading warmer than normal, around about 5 o'clock position on the dial but as it was stable there was nothing of concern. It was the first time driving the car with just the passenger-side half-surrey-top-lid on. Tbh the breeze was so warm
  18. Thanks Waldi, I thought that to be generally true, and so in tracing vibration one can narrow things down by the vibration being linked to 1. engine revs, 2. drive (prop) shaft speeds, and then 3. wheel, hubs & bear bearing, as well as rear-axle or half-shaft speeds (3. as a result of the differential ratio after the drive/prop shaft). However, I asked the question because I might envisage jointed parts like worn c.v. joints twisting sideways - when under load ..and that joint only 'straightening out' again under reverse load.
  19. As the shaft and drive-train continue at the same relative rate of rotation as the wheels are turning, irrespective or not of whether the car is in neutral, then your suggestion is that that the vibration occurs because these components are lightly loaded (steady speed) ? Pete ps. I say 'relative rate' because the prop-shaft is of course turning almost x4 as fast due to the diffential's gearing.
  20. ^ I was just writing in reply much the same, you posted first. "I would have thought that one needs to identify the camshaft first. On a bench a dial-gauge would be used to measure a cam's lift and its ramps, and that would be in reference to tdc. With the engine together and in the car I would have thought a dial gauge down onto #1 cam follower would achieve the same. From that data you may be able to identify its spec., and then inquire as to the correct timing " However, if the engine is performing that willingly and spinning at 5000 rpm without bending a valve, nor spitt
  21. I thought about painting it satin black, like the rubber seals, but decided to try it in red because I guessed it would better fade into the background of the body tub. It's done that so I'll leave it (..until one day, if n' when I do more major work to correct the route cause). Pete
  22. ^ the back-light is now raised by 1/2" at its front RH corner, and that in turn tilts its B-post angle back a little to almost correct it ..relative to the door glass. Yes, the packer is there and noticeable to anyone who looks, but imo it's unobtrusive. I can live with it as long as Katie can !
  23. Satisfyingly perplexing John just thinking out loud. . . Surely, the fuel consumption within similar in-tune engines is commensurate with their engine capacity and compression ratio .. for any given mid-range revs, load condition, and atmospheric (air intake) condition ..irrespective of how long the valves are opened or how quickly they open or close ..as the down-stroke of the piston in the bore only draws in that capacity of mix. In short, an i-c-engine uses let's say a 14.5 : 1 air-to-fuel mix. And if two engines are propelling the same weight, rolling resistance and aerodynam
  24. My pottering this week.. started off by seeing if I were at least on the right track .. ^ by deducting the 4" width of the T-bar, these surrey lid panels do fit within the boot, with the full tool kit and space to spare underneath them. Of course that isn't so useful for touring but, at first glance, it does look practical enough for day-trips out with a holdall placed underneath the panels for coats or whatever. I have read of targa-top lid panels being slipped into cloth or vinyl sleeves ..so as to protect them from scratching. That's something I'll likewise explore. For touring
  25. Truly excellent I would have loved to, but... perhaps another time when both I and the car are better able. Pete
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