Adrian Pettitt

Found it! Take a look at the lower tag on the blower switch that some clown managed to bend down whilst fitting! I must have moved that panel just enough whilst fitting the choke cable to earth it out! Bearing in mind I never removed the panel it could have happened at anytime with the slightest of movement with catastrophic results. Thanks for the advice guys, I learnt an awful lot about my car today trying to find the issue. IMG_4392 2.HEIC IMG_4391 2.HEIC

Update! Checked connections on ignition switch this morning and nothing dislodged or obviously loose.Removed some dubious radio wiring for now however this wasn’t connected yesterday. Connected battery for a quick check, no ignition lights or gauges lit. Smoke from fuse box area, disconnected pronto. The wire that has shorted is the red one that I’ve traced to the heater blower switch. The other small red wire goes to the luminition. The other side of the fuse are two green wires and one is slightly larger than the other and a white one that I think goes to the voltage stabiliser.

Cheers Peter, that helps me with yesterdays question despite the strange title. For info this post got stuck trying to upload a photo and somehow merged with today’s ignition switch question. it really has been one of those days! Thanks for taking the time to help. regards Adi

Sorry guys, technical glitch! Regards A

Hi, today I’ve fitted a new choke cable and that involved quite a bit of rummaging around the back of the ignition switch and wiring to route the cable.The battery was disconnected throughout and I started the car ok to drive the car outside prior to the work. New cable fitted ok, reconnected the battery earth and no dash warning lights and the starter only just managed a brief crank attempt and sounded unwell. Immediately pulled the battery earth and had a quick look around ignition switch area, the switch area felt warm. Have I potentially screwed the ignition switch or perhaps a w

Hi, looking through the Internet at chassis photos for reference. Am I correct in thinking that both the fulcrum and the top wishbones are fitted the wrong way around? I’m about to take mine apart and do the same or have I got it wrong? Please wait while image is uploading...

Do you think it’s low compression now with those test results? I wonder if it’s been tweaked a bit. Frankly I was surprised they were that good!

Thanks Peter, I’ll advance it up a bit when I fit the new needles and jets. Cheers Adrian

Hi Alan, there is a photo of my carbs on page 1 of this thread. They are the ones with the K&N filters. I had the pots off yesterday and those numbers were embossed in the casting underneath not on tags. I actually spoke to SU Burlen today. They identified the needles as only being used on the Rover SD1 2600 so we’re assuming that’s where the carbs originated from as well? They confirmed them as HS6. They confirmed the BEP needles are far too rich for a TR6 so I’ve ordered what they recommended. BAG needles, 100 thou jets and yellow springs. it’s a bit of a hotch potch I’m afra

Thanks Niall, is your engine ‘breathed on’ at all?

Hi, sorry to come back to this old thread after quite a while. My TR6 project has been very much on the back burner! I’ve revisited this particular thread as the advice I received from Magnus, Peter and others was brilliant. I wonder if you could help me again please. My TR6 has never run well and felt like it was strangled unless being really rich or assisted with some choke so I’ve gone back to basics. For info my TR has twin HS6 SU’s and potentially an American lower compression head from previous research. I have no idea what vehicle donated the SU’s. The car is not an import. So