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About TRseks

  • Birthday 07/13/1966

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  • Location
    Solihull, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    72 Toyota Celica ST1600 (first car), 76 Toyota Celica ST2000 Liftback, 71 Dodge Charger 383, 71 Alfa Romeo GTV 2000, currently 70 TR6

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  1. Met a white TR6 here Wednesday 5.June, I was in my red TR6, we greeted each other, anyone from TR register? Magnus
  2. TRseks

    Adjusting SU HS6

    Do you know what needles that was fitted? Magnus
  3. True, I have reported ads on eBay that clearly was a scam, just to observe that it took days to remove it. Strange, as the result of such scams potentially could leave buyers huge sums out of pocket. At the same time I have ended auctions and sold items privately, but with no evidence that this happened. Still I then get warning mails from eBay telling me off for this with “we are watching you” treats, this despite that at least 99% of my auctions go through as normal, they must spend a lot of time checking these petty issues instead of deleting the scam adverts. Clearly they have not much worry about buyers potentially losing thousands, as long as eBay earns their pounds. Magnus
  4. TRseks

    Adjusting SU HS6

    Yes the head is what I remember from 1974, the block I believe is 1970 so it should be ok. The Strombergs carbs which was used until recently I believe was 1970 as well so a bit of a mix. Magnus
  5. TRseks

    Adjusting SU HS6

    I had a look at mintylamb, very useful thanks. Can see that BAG needles are a bit richer than BDQ needles. The thing is that the engine is a US model and probably has the low compression head with a milder cam, so would need a leaner needle than a UK PI model, unless the head is ported, skimmed and with a different cam, since I don't know the history of the engine it's hard to say. Will drive the car with the BDQ needles and see how it turns out, if too lean I will probably try f.ex BAG needles. I bought 4 "lost motion brackets" from Moss, and a 5/16 bar from eBay, combined this with the existing bracket from the Stromberg setup, welded on a homemade bracket to the 5/16 bar which linked to the old bracket and it now works fine. Need to fit air filters, hook up the valve cover vent hose to the carbs and will also fabricate a heat shield for under the carbs as the tubular SS manifold creates a lot of heat. Some pics: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/catalogsearch/result/?search_group=&q=aue587
  6. TRseks

    Adjusting SU HS6

    Ok thank you for that, I just thought it is strange that it indicates a lean mixture when turning the jet down that much in theory it should be rich. That it starts fine without choke indicate the opposite... Well I will get sorted with air filter, take it for a drive and see what the plugs look like. Magnus
  7. I just replaced Stromberg carbs with some SU HS6 1 3/4, the Strombergs has worn shafts so it was needed. I got these SU’s with the car from the previous owner but I don’t know what car they came from. They got the wax stat jets so I took the stats out and replaced with two 1 penny coins. They got .100 jets with BDQ needles, after some research I found that they might work on a US TR6, I believe standard, but with removed emission equipment and with tubular manifold and big bore single exhaust. As a starting point I adjusted both jets all the way up flush with the carb body and then down 1.25mm on both. Checked the float levels which were within spec, float needles close and nothing leaks, air vent on float chambers open. Both pistons fall down as they should, both carbs looks like they haven’t been used much, everything looks as it should, very little movement on the shafts. Oil on the dampers is 15-50 engine oil. I hooked everything up yesterday and started the engine, struggled a bit as it’s no choke but after a while it ran fine with an even tickover, no air filters mounted. I balanced the carbs and both pistons rise at the same time, after a quick run up and down the seems to have good power, felt at least as powerful as with the Strombergs, no hesitation, misfire or other problems. When I came to adjust the mixture I lifted the pistons 1mm using the lifting pins. When the mixture is correct this should lead to a slight increase in the revs and then settle down, in this case the revs fell immediately indicating a lean mixture. So I adjusted the jets down little by little, but I had to adjust down a lot before the revs stopped falling, now the revs stay the same, so it indicated at least not a rich mixture? I removed the top and the pistons and the jets are now about 2.5-3mm down, a lot from the expected 1.25mm. Is this normal? When I look down on the jets I can see petrol on the front carburettor maybe 1-2mm down from the top, on the rear carb it’s 3-4mm down, indicating a lower level in the float chamber, strange thing is that the carb that has the lower level has has according to the float chamber level a higher level of petrol as the float had a closer tolerance, strange. I tested for air leaks with spraying easy start around the shafts etc but all seems good, for now I plugged the vacuum connections but will hook these up on the valve cover outlet later. The question is: can the lifting pin method can be trusted for adjusting the mixture? I started the car this morning and it started right up without choke so I will assume it’s at least not lean but the opposite? I will get the air filter hooked up and take it for a drive and look at the plugs. Since I don’t know anything about the history of these carbs it might be that the needles need to be changed. Magnus
  8. I replaced the rear cylinders last year as one was leaking a bit, checked that they worked with braking hard on the road, worked just fine, as long as you feel the brakes are as powerful as normal and it stops in a straight line for me that’s good enough. I also replace the brake fluid every 3 years, when I took the car to MOT’s they never checked if the brake fluid was old, which I found a bit strange, anyway as I said I do my best. Specially regarding brakes as these are crucial for safety. Magnus
  9. This is the reason I stopped taking the TR6 to MOT’s once it wasn’t needed, as it’s a gamble to trust the second pair of eyes I will do it myself, at least I will try to do the best I can. Magnus
  10. I thought it was allowed to use the phone as “wireless” with small earplugs, but probably not then, even if that setup doesn’t stop you from hearing other things like sirens etc. Good to know. That it’s not sensible to drive with f.ex big noise cancelling headphones should be common sense. Good point about loud music, that is allowed then? Would think if someone is one the phone with only one open earplug that should be much better than playing very loud music. Magnus
  11. Close to Warwick the forecast for Sunday is partly sunny and 17-18, let’s hope it doesn’t change. Magnus
  12. TRseks


    I (tried to) set mine at 1/16 and was surprised at how well it rides so must be ok.
  13. Found this on eBay: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/TRIUMPH-STEERING-SHAFT-UNIVERSAL-JOINT-UPGRADE-SPITFIRE-GT6-TR6-TR5-TR4A-TR250-/162823606997 Any good? Magnus
  14. I removed the vinyl cover and sanded the console somewhat to smoothen it, and painted it with black wrinkle paint. This was 6 years go and it has held up great, cheap option too. The aluminium ring is from a Moto Lita steering wheel, cost £10. Best thing in my opinion no one that doesn't know would suspect it's not original. The "before" picture:
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