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TRseks

TR Register Members
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About TRseks

  • Birthday 07/13/1966

Profile Information

  • Location
    Solihull, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    72 Toyota Celica ST1600 (first car), 76 Toyota Celica ST2000 Liftback, 71 Dodge Charger 383, 71 Alfa Romeo GTV 2000, currently 70 TR6

Recent Profile Visitors

790 profile views
  1. True, “someone” used something similar to this on our chrome bathroom taps to clean off limescale and it strippet the chrome off, and no, it was not me...! Magnus
  2. The guy in the video did not assemble this correctly as the trunnion is rotating on the bolt, it should not do this as the trunnion should rotate together with the bolt, if not the trunnion will wear oval. The trunnion, four steel washers, both steel bushes, the bolt and nut have to be one locked unit. Magnus
  3. I also have an interest in this, the one one the car which might be original or not was leaking so I tried new seals, still leaking so bought a new one, this also leaked so got a replacement, this has worked but leaked a little bit and then seemed to be ok, have used it for 4-5 years now but will get the original refurbished if I can get it confirmed that it’s actually an original part... Magnus
  4. The camera will always delete only the oldest recordings so unless you drive on for hours with the camera running it should not be a problem. Another thing is that I had problems with my camera that it stopped recording as it stopped recording because it didn’t record over the old recordings, this was because the memory card was not up to standard, I went and bought a Nextgen memory card specifically designed for dash cams, and it seems to work fine now. Magnus
  5. I have a US TR6 and before first MOT I rewired the US sidelights to new headlights with integral sidelights, I would call them “parking lights”, not sure if these were intended for daytime running? I think I paid £20 something for these. I would just use full headlights in the day anyway. One of the orange indicators were cracked but I still used them. This winter I looked for replacement but decided to go for the U.K. type brand new repro, looks better than the plain orange in my opinion. They lack of course the extra bulb but still work fine as indicators so no problem.
  6. Fitted SS exhaust some years ago. Had problems with fuel being too hot on very hot days creating vapor lock, so fitted a heat shield under the carbs, wrapped the starter and covered the metal fuel line to protect from the heat. I left the manifold itself unprotected. No problems the last two summers so it seem to be working, but the last few summers have not been very hot so it might still happen, I guess modern fuel is to blame as well. The heat shield is 0.9mm alu, two pieces mounted with an air gap of a couple of mm in between, plus two sheets of heat shield material, one between and o
  7. TRseks

    Lowering springs

    I got 420 springs on my TR6, they are lower than standard, at least the «standard» that is sold as that. But probably not much lower than worn standard springs. Anyway I am happy with how it looks and how it rides, would not want it any firmer though. Magnus
  8. No, with performance I meant first of all stronger spark with easier start. Specially on my Triumph 500 Lucas Rita produce a stronger spark when starting, downside is that it draws more electricity. Not sure how that works with the Pertronix though. Magnus
  9. I run my Tr6 on Pertronix, easy starting and no issues after 5 years, also have a 1960 Triumph 500 which was fitted with Lucas Rita 25 years ago and it’s been fantastic, start on one or two kicks and has never failed. Still can see the benefit of the more simple points even if it is less reliable, less consistent performance and more maintenance. Magnus
  10. Here is a link how to refurb the gauges, helped me when I did mine. http://www.74tr6.com/gauges.htm Magnus
  11. I removed the carbon canister several years a go when the car was still on Strombergs, also removed the vacuum retard hose but kept the vacuum advance hose. On my SU’s the vacuum advance could be connected so all good. The hose from the valve cover is routed into a t-connection and to each carb, the float chamber vents I just routed down to a “safe” place. Also made a heat shield between the manifold and carbs, double 1mm alu with two layers of heat insulating material in between and under, work fine: Magnus
  12. Just found this YouTube video on conversion from Strombergs to SU’s, I found it interesting: Magnus
  13. Same as for the Strombergs, the engine on my car is 1970, but the head is from 1974 so assume original inlet manifold for a 1974 US car. Magnus
  14. I replaced my Strombergs with SU’s earlier this year. Reason was that the Strombergs was worn with idling problems etc, probably too much play in the spindles. Got a pair of second hand SU’s in good condition, think I paid around £90-for the pair, spent some money on gaskets etc, also bought some parts on spindle connections etc. I’m very happy with the result, a bit easier starting and a better idle, in terms of performance it seems the same, possible the Strombergs performed a little bit better on high revs? Might just be a feeling and not a fact. On the plus side SU’s looks b
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