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About johnw

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  1. Hi, do you have electronic ignition fitted. I had a similar situation whilst sitting in traffic. Found the electronic ignition to be faulty. Went back to points, seems ok now. Regards John
  2. Just a thought, could it be a bit of play in the diff? I think the movement is to easy to be the wheel splines. I'm in the process of fitting CV shafts to my TR6, so fingers crossed. John
  3. Hi Mike, you need to make a small mounting plate, I used 2mm aluminium. Firstly I removed the steel insert and drew round the outer profile onto a piece of 3mm hardboard. Cut this out and drill the two mounting holes and a 20mm hole in the centre. Fit the fastener to this and fix back into the surrey frame. You can then juggle this around untill you are happy with the position. Once happy you can use this as a template to mark out the aluminium, I then covered this with vinyl to blend in better. The pins are more tricky. They are M6 so I ran a 1/4 UNF die down them, but because M6 is smaller than 1/4" they are not a good fit into the rear bar. I have bought some 1/4 UNF SS bolts and in the process of making some new pins. Hope this helps. John
  4. Bought a couple of these click fasteners as Andy suggested and they work a treat. Much easier to fit than the thumb screws and look quite neat from the inside too. I've already carried out the header rail mod but I used a late Spitfire header rail. With these two mods fitting the Surrey top is much quicker and more secure. Thanks for the heads up Andy. John W
  5. That's a shame, but thanks for the info John. Regards, Another John
  6. What size are they John, how many spokes? Would they be OK for a TR6? Thanks John.
  7. Hi Sean, sorry for the late reply. I have a 1972 TR6 with a 0.70 bore MC. The original Girling unit had a 80mm push rod, the TRW unit that I replaced it with has a 74mm push rod. After fitting the TRW unit the clutch did not release. In the end I made an adjustable push rod and all is now working as it should. Regards John
  8. johnw

    Fuel Pump Woes

    Hi iani, there is some debate as to whether copper plug leads should be used with these electronic ignitions. I changed to copper in 2017 and have had 2 electronic units fail, may be coincidence, but have gone back to points and kept the copper leads. Worth checking before you damage your other ignition system. Regards John
  9. johnw

    Fuel Pump Woes

    Hi iani, I had a similar problem to you and found that the Pertronix system had failed even though appeared to test ok. In the end I re fitted the old points system and it has run fine ever since. Give it a go if you can. If you search for one of my posts "electronic ignition" you can read the whole sorry tale. Good Luck John
  10. Thanks for the offer Z320, I've ordered some bits off Ebay to make one. Will keep you posted. Also thanks to collin3511 for your input. John W
  11. Hi Roger, if you follow your link you will see that there are in fact two item 37 !!!. One is as you say, the other is LH and adjustable by the look of it. Many thanks for your help. Just found one on the Revington site but no pictures. ( I like pictures) John W
  12. Thanks Roger, did not realise it was adjustable. Any idea why it says LH drive, could it be a different length than a RH drive unit. Thanks John W
  13. Can you buy or has any one made a clutch MC push rod ? John W
  14. I think you may be right DaveN and I will have a better look over the winter. I'm pretty sure it's not an earth problem. Certainly your voltage is much better than mine but it sounds as though your starter is cranking slower than mine. First stop will be the starter which is the re conditioned original, all be it 30 years ago but not many miles. At the moment it runs fine on points so will wait for the weather to turn. Went out in it today and ran like a train. Many thanks for your input John
  15. Thanks both for the info. John
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