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  1. Today
  2. Hi Stephen. Are the linkage rods the aftermarket type? If so they are very hard to adjust and lock off. I can supply you with original spec linkage rods which will enable you to synchronise your butterflies properly without burning your hands on the hot exhaust manifold. Kind regards Martin (Fred Millturn Parts)
  3. Richard, you haven’t specified what you feel is wrong with the brakes. Is there imbalance with one end locking prematurely or is the pedal pressure required higher than before? I put Wilwoods on the front of my 4A initially with the smaller of the 2 piston sizes that Richard Good was offering. I later changed to the larger piston calipers. When I rebuilt the car 20 years ago, I fitted ventilated discs with the standard calipers with spacers in them. I was never happy about that modification so I switched to Wilwoods. I did change to EBC pads which lightened the pedal a bit. My wife approved. W
  4. My BMIHT Certificate indicates that my car was equipped with "2.6 Ply Tyres" so I'm wondering what differentiates these tires from standard tires. Does anyone know?
  5. I find those reference articles Pete keeps putting up for us to read pretty scary. (Or pretty hard to read anyway.)
  6. Yesterday
  7. Looking at that solenoid arrangement Pete, it seems it is just being used as a terminal and not as a solenoid at all. Perhaps that means someone has fitted a pre-engaged starter. Those have a solenoid on the motor so the one on the bulkhead would be redundant.
  8. Thanks Hamish. Just saw this. I will have to have it repaired.
  9. Really good progress today. Thanks for all the help. I will have to make a tour of the UK and hand out bottles of scotch to everyone as a thank you.
  10. I have a couple of extra senders I can practice on. This should be fun.
  11. Pete, In Wales its downhill all the way ! Peter
  12. Check out The Refreshments......from Sweden. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GlU0PUb_rFg
  13. Thanks: checked H-frame - one loose bolt. Roads are in my opinion getting worse as time goes by. Pot6holes in profusion!
  14. If it is a case of working but reading incorrectly, those two holes either side of the central screw are adjustment points. There is info on how to adjust the sender and gauge here: https://www.mgexp.com/article/how-to-adjust-the-fuel-gauge-sender.140
  15. RogerH

    TR4 Rebuild

    Hi Neil, more than likely. But the plugs were very well oiled up to start with. Roger
  16. Thanks Bob. The non TR gauge was sort of working and there is a voltage stabilizer on that circuit. I don't suppose you fix gauges? Thanks Rob. Hence the lights will turn on without the ignition on. "Face palm emoticon"
  17. ntc

    TR4 Rebuild

    Your easy start will have contaminated the plug
  18. Yes the connections to the switch are as you describe. Power comes from the battery to the lighting switch and through the brown/green wire to the input terminal on the ignition switch so that point is always 'live'. When the ignition switch is closed, power is connected to the three white wires on the output terminal. The feed to the voltmeter should come from that switched supply so that power is only applied to the meter when the ignition is on. You could take the feed from the switch itself or from the A4 terminal on the fusebox where all the green wires connect, as doing that would mean
  19. Just having a punture repair and balance at Savoy Tyres in Howden if you're stuck. Alan.
  20. The first fuel gauge you showed is wrong for a tr3a, it is the type which needs a voltage stabilizer, & would read "backwards" with a tr3 sender. Probably from a tr4 With this type it does not matter which way round the connections are made. Bob
  21. Stephen, Don't despair it is not an easy task. I'm down Herefordshire, sorry too far away to assist. When you write running like a pig do you mean at low revs as you pull away? Typically the butterfly adjustment in each pair and then the synchronising of the three pairs has its main effect as the car pull sways from standstill up to perhaps 10 to 15 mph, after that the throttles are open wide'ish and all cylinders are breathing deeply the engine has reached a couple of thousand revs the plugs have cleared and any adjustment issues are not particularly discernible. If the issues
  22. I have some questions about the ignition switch. On the schematic it appears that the connections from the starter switch, the feed to the fuse box and the ignition warning lamp all connect to the same pole? Is this correct? It appears that the power to the light switch is the only connection on the other pole. Is this also correct? Bob mentioned I should pull the feed for the voltmeter from the ignition switch. Which pole should I use, assuming the above is correct? How should I ground the volt meter?
  23. Going with what works but will test the spare for "experience". Thank you.
  24. Mine is an SG2530/63 so that spare one looks right. The internals should be very similar to the one in the MGA link so you can check that the resistances look reasonable i.e 99 Ohms from T terminal to the case, 61 Ohms between the two terminals. If those are about right you are good to go. However, if the fitted gauge was working OK why not keep it ? (unless you are going for originality of course...). That might save a bit of fiddling about as the spare will need adjustment to suit the sender.
  25. Just a thought.. you may want to check your TR4's dashboard brace / H-frame is bolted tightly ..both top and bottom. Pete.
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