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  2. cjstoodley

    TR2 RESTORATION UPDATE

    Hi John, Fantastic job ! Panel gaps look perfect. Getting closer to what must be one of the most ‘standard’ and original side screen TRs on the planet !! Keep us posted. Chris
  3. stuart

    Tr6 hardtop

    Originally Triumph were going to fit the Surrey to the 6 Stuart.
  4. John McCormack

    TR2 RESTORATION UPDATE

    I did a few videos of the TR2 today. It is getting there, all the electrical issues have been resolved and everything works although the overdrive and heater have been tested but are not yet wired in. , Brakes, clutch, throttle etc are now complete. The high port head and carbies will stay until the car has been registered but I have a low port head being crack tested and assembled and hopefully rebuilt 1 1/2"carbies available (thanks David Ferry). The seats are with the upholsterer, the fuel tank is being treated and should be ready next week.
  5. Today
  6. Z320

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    Unfortunely the original studs are a little bit short to lock a second nut the get them out with the head still on the engine. But when you remove the washer under the nut it works. I know on the ARP studs you can use a allen head tool. That's lovely and tells me my dad was not wrong. But I used the original studs again.
  7. RogerH

    Advice on fitting rear springs please

    Which CV shaft do you have? Looking at the CDD CV shaft the hub is attached in the same way as the ST unit. The inner attachment to the diff has nyloc nuts to undo. Why can't the hub and diff attachment be undone and pulled out as usual? https://www.classicdrivingdevelopment.co.uk/cats.asp?cID=4&carID=3&page=TR6+CV+DRIVESHAFTS Roger
  8. RogerH

    Advice on fitting rear springs please

    At the beginning of this thread I had considered undoing the T/A bracket bolts. No problem in undoing the bolts BUT will the CV shaft restrict its rearward movement in order to get the bolts out of the chassis. Once out of course the T/A will be able to drop forward, allowing the spring to come out Roger
  9. Ian Vincent

    New welding machine

    Use Google translate! rgds Ian
  10. Ian Vincent

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    A very good thought Marco. I certainly remove the studs first when taking the head off but that’s because it’s easier. And I put the new gasket in place before I replace them but I hadn’t thought about putting the head back before inserting the studs. Is there anything that you’d need to look out for doing it this way? rgds Ian
  11. Ian Walrond

    Seat Replacement

    Good Morning All Many thanks for the feedback. I will contact Paul straight away. Regardfs Ian
  12. Z320

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    Hi there, how do you put the head seal and the cylinder head on the engine? With the studs in the engine already? Or first seal and cylinder head and second the studs through head and seal? My father worked as a truck mechanic for a decade and told me they always did it the second way. This because the first way it can happen, that the threads on the studs work like files and dust/coal in the drills of the cylinder head will fall on the seal. I did it anyway the first way, with the result that I had to make it a second way with another new seal the way he recommended me, because coal was falling on the seal and water came out. (I guess I still should have the first seal in my Workshop...). Ciao / Cheers, Marco
  13. Bought an expensive ish Tig/MMA/Plasma cutting machine. All well and good arrived in one piece from Germany and thereby it gets more difficult. The manual is written in English as she is spoke and all knob marks are again on German language. Any settings tips gratefully accepted. Rod
  14. tr6fan

    Advice on fitting rear springs please

    The trailing arm bushes are poly so it is relatively stiff. Undoing the top shock absorber nut equates to me undoing the bottom one I guess-i.e. the shock absorbetr is no longer connected to the arm. There is a lot of resistance if I push down on the arm but I assume I can push it down so the CV driveshaft contacts the chassis without doing any damage to it? If that is so at least I can explore all the travel to see ifthe spring will come out. Since the CV nuts all seem to need replacing every time you do this I am even thinking of undoing the trailing arm mounts instead-any views on that? Thanks for all the great advice so far chaps, really shows how good this forum is!
  15. Yesterday
  16. Ian Vincent

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    On the subject of stripping the thread in the block, I notice that Don H and Stan (Foster461) have both fitted ARP studs to their TR3a engines. Presumably they didn’t strip the block but maybe they didn’t use the recommended ARP torque. Rgds Ian
  17. Rockie51

    Advice on fitting rear springs please

    I seem to recall that I installed my Goodparts rear springs without removing the CV driveshafts. I have Koni telescopics on the rear and I undid the top bolt and dropped the arm down. The Goodparts springs may be shorter than standard so easier to install. Removing the inner bolts at the diff end should give some extra travel. When you say that the arm has hardly moved, have you tried pushing on it? If the bushes are tight, you may need to encourage the arm to move.
  18. rcreweread

    Diffs & Overdrive Gearboxes for sale

    Markus - thanks for letting me know - have cleared a few messages out to make room so should work now Cheers Rich
  19. ctc77965o

    Running badly - any ideas?

    http://www.ngk-sparkplugs.jp/english/techinfo/fake/index.html how to spot a fake NGK
  20. GT6M

    Diffs & Overdrive Gearboxes for sale

    tried t,PM ye, but yer mail box says . rcreweread cannot receive messages. M
  21. GT6M

    diff coast side contact pattern

    3.5 to 6 thou .It was approx. 10 thou when I first stripped the diff. says Dave, so what did ye shift, CW only, pin only, or byath!! Answer= ye say the increased backlash, it doesn't clunk on take off as the backlash now is almost the same as when I first stripped the diff So is this wid just CW shift, Pin shift,or both, Answer = Nee need t, put it all t,githa for running int drill, the oil will quieten the diff noises. run it as it is, as bit of oil int bearings, an meb,e a wee bit on Pin, as it,ll distribute along the CW teeth. if yer dril goes 3,000 rpms, then thats 60 ish + in direct top gear 1-1 ratio int box ...Pete Cox recommends using a backlash of 3 to 6 thou , this is good info, BUTT, but ev said it befoer, it all depends on what the diff needs, if its noisey at 4-6, an quiet at 12-14, then its gotta be the latter. the patterns , look t,me spot on, try it wid yer drill beofre fully assembling. re side thrusts, If its hard t,turn, then this is fine, it wont be efta a wee while. butt, lock side shafts, an turn frae pin end, it,ll be easier. { Wee tip, Half shafts bolts, a thin 1/4 drive ex bar will fit thru the wols int stub axle, this can then ev socket attached, and can then be tightened wid a T bar or ratchet, this way its faster than a spanner, ring spanna for last nip up only,!! } NOTE the edges oft teeth noo, they are dark all way up teeth, nee shiney edges as like on yer original pics, I did ask, but ye wer,nt s,sure aboot wot i was on aboot. look at 2 nd pic, see shiney bits on extreem edges, esp on yan near the yella spot ont case. re yella spot tooth, see ho the shiney bit is up the tooth, this me tinks is cos it just wer,nt sit,n in a worn in spot, thats a high point. and this,n, see the shiney edges, If it does wine a wee bit, its meb,e the best it can be got, if it howls, then it just shows hoo hard it is t,get a quiet diff, yer talking a few thou diff t,either mek it quiet, or noisey. Gud luk rgds M
  22. Motorsport Mickey

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    It all depends what covers the threads and what you call degrease. As you observed assembly lines call off their parts straight from parts stillages where they will have a coating of the manufacturers anti corrosion gunk. Because it's a controlled environment the torques of ALL fastenings will have been defined and if they can get away with it the manufacturer will include any torque variation required to allow for involuntary lubrication of threads. So their own torqueing regime unless requiring the use of sticky bolts where fastenings are cleaned and a Locktite or other proprietary locking agent fitted (these days bolts have the anti loosing agent impregnated by their manufacturer). So their interpretation of dry is not strictly without any trace of anti rust residue. My interpretation is cleaning block threads and stud threads with thinners to degrease, wiping dry and then a wet clean of WD40 to displace anything a wipe can't get with a blow out with airline of block threaded holes thrown in. I again wipe the threads with a non fluffy cloth and that's as good as it gets, no doubt there may be a residue in microns on the thread surface but I'm satisfied the torqueing operation is not adversely affected. As an aside on competition engines with standard race prepared conrods, ( I guess I'm a dinosaur, I have used Carillos for another persons build, their request) I replace the standard conrod bolts with Unbrako cap head bolts fitted with a smear of Blue Loctite on the threads (no washer) and use the standard torque values...no problems. PS: I use Unbrakos fitted the same way for flywheel fitment also, I like my ankles. Mick Richards
  23. RogerH

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    Hi Pete, very good question. I do not have the perfect answer but I simply wipe dry. And then - what about the deep holes - How dry are they !!!!! Roger
  24. stillp

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    Something I've often wondered about "dry" torque figures: how dry? When I've been in engine assembly lines, all the parts seem to have a coating of oil, presumably to resist corrosion. Should we degrease fasteners before torquing them up? Pete
  25. RogerH

    Tightening Cylinder Head Studs

    Hi Ian, ;looking at Mick's explanation that lubricating the threads increase the torque value then your 110lbs ft with grease will be well over the torque for the block threads. The bolts may well survive such a value but will a corroded 50 year old block. I know what I would do and it would not involve the ARP bolts. Roger
  26. Richard71

    Front Bumper Curiosity?

    Thanks Graham, The side bolts on the wing lined up okay, however the brackets are a little out. So as I'll have to loosen the brackets on the chassis, I've just removed them completely for cleaning & painting, I'm funny that way, maybe it's OCD? . Richard.
  27. Graze

    Door Latch broken

    Steve photos would definitely assist thanks Tom I tried to unlock it via the lever attached to the external key lock but cant seem to get it to work. It may be worth more attention though as a possible solution thanks guys Graeme
  28. Waldi

    Tr6 hardtop

    Thanks Colin. Waldi
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