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  2. That what I didn't wanted to read. Fortunately it on primer so not a biggie, yet something i didn't wanted to do. No free lunch, ever... Thanks
  3. Today
  4. Found this at ebay by accident Seems to need some work and parts to get it working on the car.
  5. Yesterday
  6. Mine was the same about 15 months ago. I find you make great progress combined with periods of work with little to show for it. It took me 3 days to get the bonnet latches restored and working properly.
  7. .........(this is used on the post-war 500cc twin cylinder Sunbeam motorcycles I'm rather fond of). Rebuilt one o’ them with my father many moons ago....HBO 590. I see it was last mot’d in 2012 so it is still around. It was a complete basket case when we collected it. Twas an S8 and never been used for hauling a chair. As for indexing plugs... have a google some odd people reckon it’s worth it! Me.. I just gap ‘em and wind them in...any old plug will do providing it starts and goes flat out...(well not really, when I got my car it has some Champion thingys that I left for a couple of years then swapped them out for ngk’s of some description. Are they better? Can’t say I’ve noticed any difference but hey ho!
  8. Just took the bellows stat out of my car and replaced it with a Tridon item which is a modern wax type item without blanking sleeve. The bypass has a restriction down to 8 mm in it.. Reason for doing this change was erratic temp. Under 185 for entire 100 miles to IWE them a needles width over 185= all the way home later in the day Temp is now solidly on 185 including motorway and A roads. Cheers Peter W
  9. I reckon someone's been pulling your dangly .. not us though .. eh ? ..as spark plugs do not only arc across their end tip.. If that were the case then the central electrode would only erode on that one side. Aside from which, as all schoolboys used to know - the four stroke cycle is in effect : suck, squeeze, pop, and fart. So even if it were practical to 'index' the electrode's gap - it might only make a slightest difference * if induction was immediately followed by the big Pop. But as there's a full crank cycle inbetween the fuel-air mix being drawn in & downwards by the lower pressure behind a descending piston, and then being compressed (9 : 1 ? ) into a tiny space all around the spark plug ..before the ignition is fired - the spark plug simply needs to face downwards and be angled towards the centre of the combustion chamber to be indexed. * and that difference would be the time it takes for the ignited air-fuel mix / flame path to travel just the diameter of the centre electrode. Of course, as Mike says.. some engines utilise squish effect (this is used on the post-war 500cc twin cylinder Sunbeam motorcycles I'm rather fond of). But even then, there's a broad wave-front of air-fuel mix (..the full width / diameter of the cylinder) to ignite ..so again the spark plug just needs to be nearest the middle of its combustion chamber.. Three or Four valves per cylinder facilitates putting the spark-plug in the centre of the combustion chamber, so the flame front has shortest distance to travel / combust all the fuel mix in the shortest possible time (..important for very high revving engines). And twin spark plugs were a popular tuning option offered on motorcycles at one time (..I gather very few customers though).
  10. More than likely, colortune was struggling because ignition was a bit squiffy.
  11. Andy I used this firm http://www.ableblastclean.co.uk/index.HTML based in Tockwith to soda blast the shell of my TR6 about 10 years ago. John, I think. Nice bloke, reasonable rates. He did a good job and sprayed the fresh metal with etch primer for me. Awful communications and he took bloody ages! Anyhow, the body has stood up well. The doors, bonnet and boot were dipped which, of course, takes what little paint was originally applied off the edges you can't see so there are some signs of rust appearing there. David
  12. Oh! don't worry I had no intention of going anywhere near it. Jon.
  13. Hi Rich The auxiliary rocker oil feed is a small braided hose that is up the back of the cylinder head which supplies extra oil to the rocker gear, unfortunately it often supplies to much oil which has a tendency to run down the valve guides and get burnt The standard rocker box has a baffle plate over the inside of the of the vent pipe ( there is also some wire wool type stuff behind the plate), the baffle is designed to reduce the amount of oil vapour drawn through the vent. Some after market rocker boxes have very minimal baffles which allows oil vapour into the vent system then via the carburettor into the combustion chamber. The vent system should be a pipe from the rocker box into a tee then a pipe to the vent port on the carburettors. There are one or two variations to this depending on the year of the car but that is the basics. If the system is blocked or not connected correctly you will get a build up of pressure in the engine which will force oil vapour past the rings or down the valve guides. The above points are easy to check and cost nothing so worth doing before spending out on stripping the engine George
  14. Could be running weak from midrange try opening mixture screws 1 or 2 flats Chris
  15. Great work John. Sounds like your getting to the best bit working through teething problems and enjoying the car on the road were it should be all the best Jonathan
  16. Thanks for reminding me about the cylinder hard re torque. This should have been high on the recommissioning list but some how didn’t think about it. If I hadn’t posted on the forum could have ended up with a costly problem. Re torqued the head this evening and re set tappets and new bellows thermostat due at the weekend and with some luck all will be good. Cant thank you enough for the reminder about the cylinder head and just shows it’s always worth sharing a problem even if you think you know the answer as could be something basic you have forgotten Many thanks Jonathan
  17. Good road test, slight hold back between 2500 - 3500, but now ignition better - will have another go with colortune tomorrow. Only problem was 1/2 mile from home and the throttle linkage jammed _FULL ON! Interesting, was nearly 50 years ago the same thing happened to me in one of my TR2's.
  18. Hi It is. without a doubt a scam. I looked into some of the source and a lot is copied from other sites. Keep away Rich
  19. I have a derrington inlet whilst it has a good sharp internal split to each port the aperture to the head is too big. It’s 42mm. The tr inlet is 34mm the inlet on the head is 38mm so it would take som porting to get a smooth flow as can be seen when I offered it up and you can see the lip ( and the clean valve guides that could have been shortened a little ?!)
  20. Hi Harlequin I must admit, I do not fully understand all the checks you refer to... may I politely ask for a more simplified check? Excuse my ignorance! Rich
  21. So long as it's not been painted yet then the best way is to drill out the spot welds and remove it, you can then successfully reshape and re-attach in the desired position, if it has been painted then you are reduced to pushing and shoving, and you probably will have to re-paint it!! Cheers, Rob
  22. This is yet another EU regulation that the UK is only now implementing. We will just have to get used to it. Garages cannot be sure where their supplies will come from so are probably labelling all their pumps just in case.
  23. Shell are now the latest! Garage in Fairford has ALL petrol pumps including V-Power 99 octane marked E5!
  24. There's some useful info here: https://www.chriswitor.com/technical.php
  25. Spotted a red 6 from the Thames Valley group parked in Osbourne house car park today. We are incognito in the Stag
  26. An actual difference between 'US spec' (may also apply to other territories) and 'UK spec' that I've seen, and in fact is visible in this thread, is the presence of a fresnel reflector component in the US version.
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