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  2. Hi Andy, excellent moral fibre for owning up. A number of plugs, typically, NGK, do not like getting wet. Even after drying they may still not work. Did your Super Diesel have a black handle? Roger
  3. Easy enough to make a pair up, I can do you a drawing if you like (of TR3 ones, which should be the same, ie eccentric hole.) Bob.
  4. The photo IS of the instruments voltage stabilser. The I is for instruments, B is for battery, E is for earth. I think you need rather more than the supplied relay to do the job. by the way green / red wire is the connection to left indicator bulbs, Purple is a fused line (not passing through the ammeter) to the horns. I would not expect to be using that for hazards. Bob
  5. To me the first item in the photos looks like a battery voltage stabiliser in the footwell that sends 10 volts to the instruments and is not a flasher relay. I would have expected to find the flasher relay under the bonnet and having 3 terminals. Peter W
  6. Today
  7. Most of the TR6's here in the US are using E10 fuel and I am not seeing any issues with the Strombergs beyond normal wear. I think at this point all of the rubber in the fuel systems has probably been replaced. Fuel lines, fuel pump, carbs. Stan
  8. Hi All, I am soon going to attempt to wire in a hazard switch to my 1964 TR4. Then wiring to the existing old-looking relay is confusing as it doesn't match up to a wiring diagram. I attach photos of the current relay comprising 2 double spade connections stamped "B" and "I" with a rivet stamped "E". On the two "B" spades are a single dark green, and a light green and dark green wire fixed together. On one of the "I" spades is a green/black wire. The stamp is definitely "I" , not "L". On the relay supplied in the hazard kit you will see 2 terminals stamped "B" and "L". "B" has a green/red wire, and "L" a purple wire. With the double spade set up on the non-hazard relay, I assume a piggyback spade is required. Do I attach the "I" connection on the current unit to the "L" on the new relay? Which is correct - the new hazard relay replaces the current flasher unit, OR the hazard relay is an extra unit requiring the existing unit to remain in place? I hope this makes sense! Best wishes Willie
  9. Nigel, Paul Thank you for your encouraging comments. I didn’t think the fuel came into direct contact with the diaphragms. However during last year’s hot summer (certainly in the SW UK), the TR6 under bonnet temperatures were often very high, so much so that I experienced vapour lock several times and so wondered about the effect of ethanol fumes rather than liquid fuel. I now doubt the quality of the two diaphragms I originally fitted. I can’t recall the supplier except to say they weren’t from Burlen, so perhaps the quality wasn’t up to scratch. BTW the split diaphragms caused a drop of over 15HP at the wheels when the car was tested/tuned on a rolling road this week so I’ll definitely be taking spares to Europe this year. Martin
  10. They will but they will be the centre drilled ones. Stuart.
  11. +1 It's an easy and cheap thing to fit and there's no real downside. You mention ground clearance, but if you fit the guard flush to the underside of the chassis you're literally adding only the thickness of the guard.
  12. Well, I have to first apologise for not replying sooner but afraid other things have happened which have had to take precedence. Okay well I checked the enrichment lever was stuck but that was not the cause of the problem. the plugs were filthy and looked very oily. Did not like the look of this so is it fuel related? decided to revisit my local garage. I use super unleaded in my car and when I checked the pump that I used it was super diesel. Well i felt a right pr**t. Back to the garage drained flushed the tank and the fuel lines, flushed the injectors. In goes the new fuel, to make sure I had not got it wrong again I used ordinary unleaded. Cleaned the plugs. Turned the key and it would not fire. took out the plugs and thoroughly cleaned them again. Still would not fire. Recharged the battery, and this time changed the plugs. Fired beautifully and running well again. My advice if using super unleaded check very carefully because in my experience the super diesel looks like petrol and does not have the distinctive diesel smell. Many thanks to all for the excellent advice. Andy
  13. jfg

    Bonnet release.

    Mine has a single mechanism in the centre of the bulkhead. Pull release next to the choke.
  14. jfg

    FHC rebuild

    The final external weld along the rear edge was finished today. temporary skim around the seem (for pinhole weather protection while it's kept outside) and coated with bilt hamer zinc rich primer and then covered in lacquer. The interior was stripped to reveal the floors, not as bad as i expected. Only real nasty was the drivers side sill was full of expanding foam!!!!
  15. It is a simple ball valve, no diaphragm like the original. The operation is via the same cable and is much easier to operate. It is generally known as the Everco heater control valve, part number 74648. Stan
  16. jfg

    FHC rebuild

    found a previous bodge attempt with what appears to be washing machine metal
  17. jfg

    FHC rebuild

    a lot less rot than i was expecting
  18. jfg

    FHC rebuild

    found this behind the backpad
  19. I have a 6V version of this one from Peter at "dynamoregulatorconversions" in my Hillman, & have fitted a 12V one on a friends AC Greyhound. Both working well. Bob.
  20. I went on the TRF site to order new stops, but found that stops for a Tr4a (142403) are NLS. However they do list stops for a Tr6 (156111). Will these work on my car? Jim
  21. clem No we will do it when it returns to the UK , the DVLA randomly selects applications for independent inspections by SGS so the car has to be in the UK . graham
  22. Do not forget the stanchions are matched to their brackets. They have a number letter combination stamped on bracket and stanchion that should be the same. Matching the profile shape when the two are assembled is a factor to consider. Since repainting my car and rebuilding a rechromed screen I now slack the 3 screws that hold one stanchion to the frame when fitting/removing the screen. Makes for more clearance. Peter W
  23. Pardon my ignorance, but I'm assuming these valves are an improvement on the standard configuration? Is the effort to operate them less because of the range of movement? and lastly, is there a source/reference number for these? cheers
  24. When writing the TR2-4A parts sales catalogue for Moss we were posed with a dreadfully difficult decision...to include or not the ash tray. We knew the source of one possible design was Morris Minor so contacted a good friend who ran a Morris Minor spares business to see if we could get a supplier. He said "when asked by our customers we think out the box & tell 'em to flick it out the **ck**g window" Peter W PS We concluded there were at least 2 designs of ashtray fitted to the sidescreen car, one we had an original NOS sample of - The long pull out metal one (as fitted to my brothers TR3A) plus the half round swivelling bakelite one, that crops up on many other early TRs (& early Morris Minor) - do you know of any more?
  25. +1 for Stuarts comment. Went through similar a few months ago. Leaving the pump running with coil disconnected cleared most of the air. A couple were problematic, removed the injectors, held upright then put in a jar until a good spray. Just be careful with petrol spraying around. Good Luck Dave
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