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Quite a lot I would have thought. Centigade scale added to above. Bob

Has anyone found an electronic heater valve that uses the 1/2" heater hose?

Yes, but do it the other way, and you'll need more than octane booster! John

Hi Bruce The MU was rebuilt 1500 miles ago no black smoke. I'm going to stick with the new set of NGK BP6ES and dial in the new TB and then see how these look but I've ordered some NGK BP5ES to experiment with. The ignition system rebuilt distributor, electronic ignition, flame thrower coil all from Dizzy Doc and Magnacore HT leads so I'm near certain the spark side is good. As said she run like a train with the new plugs in. Andy

Nice work Bob. Those numbers for a GTR 104 are a similar but a bit different from others like this. Pity these are in degrees C so not directly comparable but they do seem to be considerably higher at the low temperature end (eg your 90F = 32C is 360 Ohms as opposed to 500 odd here) though the difference gets less further up the temperature range. I wonder what the variation is like between different examples of the senders ?

Hi Waldi Perhaps to save the paint you could grind the remains off and drill the new bracket and door and use some half screws and nyloc nuts but you would need to remove the trim panel. Andy

I had the misfortune for a spring to break in the drivers door lock while competing in the Autosolo at Malvern this year, the door flew open and ripped the pin through the bracket, leaving a crease in the door skin. I welded a couple of washers to the remains of the bracket, a job I was able to do without removing the door. It has burned a bit of paint off, but there is a greater thickness of metal than there was before as my brackets had worn very oval Neil

Did the fuel pump stop working when the engine was running? I was told, The sudden lack of fuel to the rotating metering unit increases the load on the dive dog causing it to sheer rather than stripping the drive gears. The fuel is a lubricant as such and when it is not there the friction rises between rotor and sleeve.

I think the later 2000 engine had domed pistons rather than flat tops on the 2.5, and used the same head as the 2.5

Yes, but two tiny bulges in the front sump area will give clearance. Or, of course, a TR6 sump!

Well that might make feel a bit better because its possible mine was 30 plus years old for all I know!

It used to be a relatively common event 30+ years ago but not come across it in recent times.

Has anyone experienced a drive dog/coupling failure on the metering unit? Everything on mine has been refurbed but the other day the plastic coupling sheared and i'm not sure why, everything is free and, as stated, refurbed so I don't know why it went - other than I have no idea how old the coupling itself is, so maybe just fatigued, but I'm obviously a little concerned that a new one could do the same again. Thanks Graham

Yes it probably is the same as 2 speed. The single speed turns one notch only, the two speed turns with 2 notches. The single speed has only the 2 terminals for the wiper motor and it only turns to one position. If I had a very cheap single speed switch I’d be tempted to dismantle and investigate. The plastic body has mouldings to accept the extra 2 contacts. What happens inside is another game, but I expect Lucas did not make it too complicated. The switch from a Spitfire I have is far too large for sidescreen TR use without relocating it. I am not keen on letting the 4 te

Can't persuede you to part with it for a fiver then Bob

Small suacepan on the kitchen stove, used a small "kitchen" digital thermometer, normally used for jam making, or testing inside temperature of joints of meat. I now know why the electric TR4 temperature gauge has different end readings to the capillery type. Capillery marked 90, 185, 230 Electric marked 110, 185, 250. I have spent all afternoon attempting to get my converted gauge to read correctly, but have failed. I can make it read low at 110°, & hi at 250° but not 90°, & 230° It's the extra 20 degs at the top end, there is not enough mechanical adjustment. &

Photos added. Yes the studs are the white plastic ones for the body along the forward deck pieces. White or light coloured Cars have 3 each side. Also used across the back when white hoods are fitted. I have a few of the foam pads to go under the rear retainer rail to stop the rivets scratching the paintwork.

Some years ago I asked the same question and someone recommended a "dum-dum" lookalike available as black strips from Wollies. Used it to seal the rear light clusters, absolute perfect replacement, but sadly cant remember what it was called.

The holes in the door check strap bracket on my tr6 are worn; I missed this during the restoration tbh. What is the most practical way to fix this? Here is a link to the defective item: https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/en-gb/bracket-angled-check-strap-arm-613855 I assume replacing the strap bracket in the doors is not that easy, so I started reaming until the holes would be round and machine new pins to suit but broke the adjustable reamer. Not as easy as I hoped with the doors installed. Is there another fix, less involving than bracket-replacement, and preferably with the

So the sump will be different to give clearance for the extra throw of the 2500 cc long stroke crank?

Your hood stowage cover looks like it has a pocket in the top surface. If that is the case then that cover is also for use inside a hardtop when the soft top is left fitted. The thing is effectively turned inside out to envelope the soft top and frame and make a tidy item out of it. Getting the fasteners to connect may be a different thing. The fabrics shrink over time. Leave it in the sun to get good and hot then fit from the centre rear outwards and forwards. The cover was fitted with fasteners from new and matched to the original vehicle trimming bucks. After market weather

Good and useful info. As a matter of interest how did you heat the oil, and what method did you use to check its temperature? I got into boiling antifreeze in an old kettle using a meat temp probe for measurement when testing thermostats.

Correct and that is what I have fitted with my existing single speed DR2 wiper motor. The 4 terminal one is in the drawer for my conversion to 14W motor as and when.

So there we were ambling down the street in the small town of Karrebæksminde, Denmark when I see a white TR3a driving towards us. We were going to have lunch and when we came out and walked back towards my TR3a in the local car park, the driver of the white one had obviously spotted mine and parked next to it. Sadly however, he didn’t see us coming and drove away just before we arrived back at the car. I didn’t even have the chance to get a photo but you have to ask what are the odds of seeing another sidescreen car out and about. From the look of the registration it was local, as in Danis

Agreed Stuart, I thought the same Ade