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  2. Thank Rob, the look was designed for a voltmeter rather than an ammeter (I've read various views on this and I get both sides of the discussion) Rgds David
  3. Today
  4. Hi, thanks for the advice, I will try that.
  5. Agent’s/Seller notes - ‘In summary, exceptional 2 owner unmolested car, definitely one for the purist.’ https://www.marleeclassics.co.uk/marleecarsforsale?fbclid=IwAR2h7gKkkE3wBZYwJeDK1NQmwEkLPpqMv-vre1V_4NPmldfGG9H_bvZMPuA
  6. No change - the only difference is the brown/blue feed to the switch comes direct from the ammeter (if you still have one) rather than via the control box A1 terminal. Everything else on the switch stays the same. \
  7. All great information. Thanks again. I have ordered the servo just looking for a supplier for the aluminium.
  8. Recycling an old thread: so if you have a new loom designed for alternator and no control box, is there any change to the ignition switch connection? I assume not as I have the correct number/colour of wires to match the ignition switch terminals as described above by Ian C Many thanks David
  9. The figures for my car in 1988 164 lb ft torque at 5300 revs and 165 BHP, at the wheels. That's with 89mm pistons standard crankshaft but stroked and using -60 thou big ends, with standard con rods and with 45 Webers fitted. I used a 6000 rev limit with a limiter at 6250 revs. Mick Richards
  10. thanks to everyone for info and prices gifen for steering etc,have now opted to go with r+p,with horn conversion kit,thanks for all your help,2 things though,what is best spray to use on wire wheels,(silver) also i,m missing o/s sidescrenn bracket latch,any ideas,kind regards.phil
  11. I read a good tip on the Forum to fill up the O/D, which was to jack up the front and then fill the gearbox with a bit more oil than the capacity. Leave overnight then drop the car down in the morning and with a bit of luck it should overflow a little bit. If not top up. Roger
  12. I mean GOOD advice, I'm not Swedish. In fact used to work close by you, at Bristol Uni's Long Ashton Research station, closed down long ago, soon after I left it for Texas.
  13. Done, thanks for the god advice. I'm a climate scientist so I'm semi-accustomed to getting death threats even though I don't use social media (other than this one)
  14. Hello All, I have recently moved to Queniborough in Leicestershire and today spotted a white TR6 going past the house (Main Street). Would be interesred if the owner was local. I have a 71 Damson TR6. Regards. Mark.
  15. Hi Im removing the gearbox this weekend in order to have it rebuilt. Last time I removed the box I had a really hard job removing the gearbox mount from the chassis and the J type overdrive. I can’t remember how I did it in the end. What is the easiest way to do this as most of the nuts and bolts are pretty inaccessible. Nigel
  16. Best thing I did when I got the TR was to join the register. Just thought I'd look into the drain Stuart directed me to ..and back in August 2016 the removal tool details were given. Although it's also suggested a hammer and a block of wood can be used..
  17. I tried to fill again today but no good. Thank you Stuart. I'll take a look tomorrow. Great to have access to so much experience on the forum. Phil
  18. Probably a good plan if it was working OK without.
  19. Thanks Roger, I've given it a good test and all is well. No idea why that tube was bent the way it was. I seem to recall it was always a bit noisy in operation. Hopefully better in future.
  20. Thanks Rob I went back to my original pics prior to starting the restoration and saw that I had no Ground on the Alternator. So maybe it was upgraded in the past to the newer type regulator... It would be prudent then to disconnect the Black cable before I kill the alternator...
  21. I'm helping a friend with his gearbox rebuild, TR5, it was dismantled some 10 years ago, dont see any real damage anywhere, the original layshaft is good, but which bearings are best, the caged ones with the small rollers or the open type with the larger rollers, the surface in the layshaft appears to be un damaged. The gearbox number CD6509. My friend had ordered 2 new bearings long ago, for the top shaft, front and rear, but these have much deeper outer bearing rings with smaller ball bearings compared to the ones that came out, will these be ok to use or should I find some like the or
  22. Hi Rod, having fitted the rack/tubes and they do nt foul the vent flap rod - have you operated the rod. It can move its position (not just up/down) Roger
  23. I'm in a happier place, although not there yet. I did some surgery to the centre tube using heat and a metal rod thrust down each end until I'd (largely) straightened each end. I got it to the point where the new rack would pass through relatively easily. I've just put in the wheelboxes and connected them with the centre tube and it looked a whole lot better. It also appears to not foul the vent rod. I've also fitted up the first tube from the motor end, it was a bit tricky to align but it's pretty much all in. A quick trial with the new rack has been successful in that it operates both w
  24. Thanks for your reply, TR8IAN. Yes, underseal on a car was an optional extra in those days and It would depend on the dealer's technician what type of 'pattern' you'd receive. I think that's why so many people who own TR7s today have difficulty trying to make their cars look original - there isn't a standard finish. I'll go for a smooth 3M stone chip coating painted with the standard Ford satin black - when I eventually find the colour code for it! I have at least got the colour for the alloy wheels. I removed a tyre and the inside of the wheel is painted in the metallic silver/
  25. My TR is a 1973 CR type with extended mounting brackets to meet the 5MPH crash rule in the USA. Although it is a UK car and I have just under 1" gap between bottom of lens and top of bumper. Bruce.
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