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  2. The best person to contact is Phil Horsley one of the Wedge team. Send him an email: wedgeregistrar@tr-register.co.uk. They have a lot of data from previous members. Hope you find something. Mick
  3. Thanks to everyone, and thank you Roger for the alternative lead. Unfortunately Revington don't have any at present! Willie
  4. Today
  5. Sorry, allow me 2 questions: - in the rocker shaft the oil is full or reduced pressure? - isn't there a pressure reducing small drill in the cylinder head? Ciao, Marco
  6. Of course you can refer to The Art of Coarse TR Maintenance manual which, so long as your soldering skills are up to it, says just cut and splice the wires near to the new switch and use heat shrink to insulate the joints .... saves an awful lot of fighting with the rest of the dash board!! Cheers Rob
  7. Oil drips from hole in the bottom of the bell housing, and is definitely gearbox rather than engine oil. Possibly talking complete twaddle. But as the drips continue long after the car has been run. I suspect leak is from the layshaft end cover gasket. Which I should imagine is below the oil fill level. Rather than the main shaft/pinion cover seal/gasket. Which I imagine is above the oil fill level. Just wondered if anybody had tried a leak stop "snake oil". And more importantly if their overdrive still functioned afterwards.
  8. Hi Willie, Revington may have an alternative https://www.revingtontr.com/product/1a2139/name/spring-washer Roger
  9. Also check that the breather is clear. If blocked, pressure will build inside the 'box and O/D causing oil leaks. Nigel
  10. Hi Malcolm, do you know where on the GB the leak is. If it is the selector rods then no need to remove the GB. Simply take the top cover off and do any work on the bench. The attachment plate between GB and OD is a prime candidate for leaks as these are known to crack (I think that is my problem). As for your leak stopping wonder fluid - don't go there. A basic GB may well appreciate the stuff but an OD wouldn't. Roger
  11. It looks like the person who overhauled previously ground off the upper traces. See shots attached of rear cap. I also attach shot of the loose washer at the front arrowed. Willie
  12. TR6 Gearbox has a slight oil leak. Not bad enough to justify having the box out. Its just annoying. Has any body experience of stop leak oil additives. Slightly worried about possible effect on overdrive operation.
  13. Hi Carl, another tedious job. Work slowly and it will happen. Ref this Moss page https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-column-wheels-tr5-6-1967-76.html You need to remove the cover #34 To do this you need to remove #50 & #51 and on a TR4A #48 This will allow the steering column to move up/down to get the cover #34 out. The cover pushes forward and then down. Do remember to put clip #51 back in place. Roger
  14. Take the Rev counter and Speedo out that will give you much more access. Be careful of repro switches as some arent very good at all and dont pinch the wires when you put the tray back. Stuart.
  15. Mills pins do tend to be tapered at one end so find the smaller end and tap back through from there. Stuart.
  16. Hi Willie, don't drill them out, the roll pins are split along their length which provides tension to hold them in place, the end you can see is probably the end it was knocked in from. Remove with a hammer and suitable punch from other side. Chris
  17. Hi Folks, There are indeed internal plugs to my new rocker shaft. I am going to strip the shaft, but I noticed this morning that the front double coil washer looks as if it is broken. Lots of free movement whilst everything is still on the head. Not opened it up yet as leaving till next week when my son will be in Hereford. He will take the car one day so I want to do the overhaul with him present! The washer [part 044630] seems to be out of stock everywhere. Does anyone know of a suitable substitute - or a source of supply! Also the end caps [060733] in case I have a problem removing the pins. Incidentally, do the pins only push in one way? I can only see one end! Does one drill them out? Willie
  18. Hi all my light switch has failed and I need to replace it, So I need to undo the channel where the wiring goes down the steering column. Any advice on the best course of action after removing the seat and steering wheel, I can clearly see one bracket and can get access to that, but I’m assuming there’s going to be another bracket very close to the back of the dash? Is that a clicks out job to get to? TIA
  19. Mike C

    Flasher Unit

    Make sure they check the overdrive lockout switches are functional. Some PO had wired mine to work in all gears including reverse.
  20. Its not often fitted just depends on the particular spring, in that link you will note those springs are NCA Your usually supplied now with TT4212PR instead which doesnt require it. Stuart.
  21. We have covered this before on the TR6 forum I think. I use 2BA Rivnuts to hold them in, I use the Revington ones they have a rubber seal to go against the arch. Stuart.
  22. Had a quick play with the image, & it is very low resolution, i.e. won't be readable at A4 size. Iain needs to put a higher res version on here. Bob.
  23. Hi Tim, don;t panic. Mine has done far more than that and still going strong. The lubrication to the rockers is not excessive so oil loss is not the best thing to have but it works. Roger
  24. Hi Tim, when I fitted mine many moons ago I used bathroom sealant (acrylic/silicon) in four or five blobs around the main contact area. At the ends I used upholstery clips just to keep things together. This works very well until you need to get in there. Easy enough to remove but time consuming to clean the liners before re-installing. Thankfully not often required. Or you could go to a more mechanical attachment. I now have M4 rivnuts on the wheel arches. Easy tpo remove and re-install. Of course this requires drilling into the metal work. Roger
  25. Thanks for the drawing, but I could not print it A4 . I had planned to mark the drawing in colour. The plan I used was from a long standing owner who knows all there is to know. Please send me a larger size plan. I am away from home at present and will get back to you later. Thanks Richard & B.
  26. Is the spacer #58 in RogerH's post always fitted or does it depend on which spring is fitted? Is there a chart/list which details this please? John
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