Jump to content

All Activity

This stream auto-updates     

  1. Past hour
  2. Hamish

    Hardtop hints and tips

    Further update - sidescreens ok so now I’m convinced it’s the roll bar. In These pics the hardtop is fitted to the top windscreen without hardtop to windscreen seals. The rear is pulled down using cable ties. The hardtop is resting on the roll bar close to hardtop rear window. The side screens are fitted and line up well with windscreen stanchions. I have a considerable gap between sidescreens and hardtop. Very disappointed person
  3. atlastitsgreen

    TR250 Differential Mountings

    Hi Z320, that sounds like it could be interesting, it's not clear to me how you could undertake a safe repair in this area without welding but please could you elaborate. Kind regards, Bob
  4. Today
  5. MikeThomas

    How much for a full body respray on 5?

    Thanks for the detailed information re costings Tom, helpful in understanding the other side of the quote. I'm going to pop back and see the £11,000 guy and go through the estimate again to ascertain what he will be doing plus what I can do to help out. He's fully booked until May 19 so looking Nov that year. I need to take advantage that he is not yet VAT registered but that will come. Really appreciate your time in posting, unable to like the post as it doesn't appear for moderators? So lots of Best wishes, Mike
  6. Tim D.

    Clutch Release Bearing

    Tim, sorry meant half the RBRR tim
  7. Hamish

    Hardtop hints and tips

    Thanks Stuart / Dick the roll bar is fitted direct to the inner wheel arches direct not on pads or on the vinyl. I have read the moss catalog and the wsm and I am convinced that without the roll bar it would be fine. I am also confident that the roll bar will be correctly made. The hard top rests on the rollbar before the hardtop brackets get to the capping and way before the hard top bottom edge reaches the car. I need to think it through more. Really don’t want to take the roll bar off to see if the hard top fits. I need them to fit together and I’m not cutting the roll bar. H
  8. Dick

    Hardtop hints and tips

    The Triumph TR2 manual Part Number 502602 gives detailed instructions on how to fit a hard top. You must start with the windscreen in the right place and hope that this does not compromise your side screen fit. Good Luck, Dick.
  9. On my TR4A it was the LH rear, it is possible to repair this without welding
  10. stuart

    TR250 Differential Mountings

    Its always the right hand front gets punched upwards and the rear left hand gets pulled down through due to the torque twist of the diff. Stuart.
  11. stuart

    Hardtop hints and tips

    The lower seal is not the correct one for a start and yes the brackets fitted to the hardtop are adjustable where they are screwed to the hardtop. The tonneau/hood lift the dot pins when fitted with the hardtop should be the shorter ones which are only available now from TRF in the USA. Is the roll bar fitted over the trim on the wheel arches and is it fitted with any pads between it and the body? If you read the Moss catalogues description of fitting the hardtop then you will understand its never going to be easy Stuart.
  12. Right hand rear or front?
  13. astontr6

    Clutch Release Bearing

    I am using the Revington one, not cheap, no problems so far after 18 months and 5K miles and plenty of London traffic crawling! Stickie clutch has gone from day one when first used! Bruce.
  14. Waldi

    Engine rebuild requirements

    Thank you for that and all the best with the rebuild. Waldi
  15. Lebro

    Engine rebuild requirements

    Warwick gt. They were only trying to make sure you get the best possible result, there are a number of details you need to get right when building these engines if you want them to last a long time, & be pleasant to use (no vibration etc). Bob. (mine will need doing in the next few years, & I will take all the advice I can get from these guys)
  16. Waldi

    Clutch Release Bearing

    If the bearing carrier has a sharp edge, it may stick on the center piece. It is best rounded, you can test it by hand when moving the clutch shaft and tilting the carrier. Waldi
  17. tim hunt

    Clutch Release Bearing

    "My sister managed it happily for the whole of the rbrr". Really Tim, did she do ALL the driving? Tim
  18. Aldpilot

    TR4/4A fuel cap lock

    I can recommend Marco’s product. I got one in February this year and it is a great addition for my car. If only my diff was not leaking!! Mike
  19. Yesterday
  20. jerrytr5

    TR250 Differential Mountings

    In my experience the weld at the top of the pin is always broken so you need to get at the top of the diff mount either by removing the body or cutting an access through the floor. Sorry, that's just the way it is. Jerry
  21. jerrytr5

    Clutch Release Bearing

    As others have said, nothing wrong with the standard system as long as the cross shaft taper pin a) fits properly & b) is supplemented with a secondary bolt. Jerry
  22. Motorsport Mickey

    Engine rebuild requirements

    ..
  23. DaveN

    Suspension Upgrade - Retain Stock Height

    Fronts go for poly bushes all round, then a thicker antiroll (sway) bar. Upgrade the springs but only slightly, something like Moss TT4006. Shocks I guess personal choice. Rears again poly bushes. Upgrade the springs to Moss TT4211 or TT4212. Personally I’d stick with the leverarm shocks but change the oil for Penrite no.2 or motor cycle fork oil. You can also get updated valves for them. That should be good enough for thrashing around the lanes.
  24. jerrytr5

    Suspension Upgrade - Retain Stock Height

    Fit a rear anti-roll bar. Koni all round but measure up the rear conversion brackets to avoid IRS failure. You may need thicker front ARB to compensate for rear. Springs are a minefield. You will probably need to try several before you get right height and handling. With the ARB you can keep the spring rate soft to handle everyday obstacles like pot holes & ramps. Jerry
  25. warwickgt

    Engine rebuild requirements

    I wish I never asked. I thought I might get a list of points to ask or things to check. All I have got is pysicobable. And not reading my question. I only want a well built reliable, to standard specification engine No super duper flywheels, compressions of the head, crank end float. (I would hope a decent workshop would deal with that or at least explain the measurement of mine and how in or out of spec it is and how they would deal with it) makes of pistons. I think I now have found my answer in the workshop manual. It tells you about an engine rebuild so I will use to bench mark. Thanks all for trying. Think you all a bit to behind the norm for me.
  26. JohnRoberts

    Clutch Release Bearing

    Hi Roger Sorry to be so slow at replying, had to go out. does not judder as much as feel notchy up and down. will investigate if the fitted 3/8 unf bolts were used. regards JohnR
  27. Waldi

    Smiths Voltage gauge wiring

    Thanks Phil, I will contact the seller first before I dismantle, I prefer to send it back to him and look for a correct volt gauge. although dismantling it is tempting:) Regards, Waldi
  28. Phil M

    Smiths Voltage gauge wiring

    Hi Waldi I believe Ed is right, your gauge is either faulty or probably not a volt meter, I have recently refurbished an old classic Smiths Volt gauge and tested it with a volt/current generator. The classic Smiths Volt meter (and probably the new ones) use a winding round a bimetallic strip as the volts increase he coil generates more heat and the needle moves slowly. I’ve taken a couple of photos to help Regard Phil
  1. Load more activity
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.