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  2. My wife and I have also been to Pompeii and Herculaneum and many other sites in the region. We thought the Villa dei Misteri was best, not too many tourists get down there and the mosaics and frescoes are in place. Between Sorrento and Pompei are two of the most magnificent villas, San Marco and Arriana. A bit hard to get to, we walked up the hill from the railway station. Both villas were on top of the then sea cliff, the sea has retreated a km or so since. They are very complete with numerous frescoes and mosaics in situ. Just wonderful to sit there and imagine the life they hosted. https://archaeology-travel.com/travel-tips/how-to-get-to-stabiae/ Also fantastic for Roman buffs is Baiae near Pozzuoli on the Bay of Naples. Most of the Roman resort is in a few metres of water and easily snorkeled. The ruins on shore are just brilliant. We have visited numerous Roman sites in Britain and would love to join in a Register tour if it happens.
  3. Roger (and Andy), Do I take it that removing the heater & fan is easy? I have some annoying something or other that has got into the works of the heater and is rubbing on the fan making it too noisy to use. I suspect a squirrel, but I suppose it could just be a leaf or two. Anyway, I need to get it out and clear out the gubbins. Tim (still with a full time job from home and not getting enough TR work done).
  4. Yesterday
  5. Continuing the garden theme on the slopes of Diamond Head:
  6. That looks like my '69 PI except my locking tab is rounded.
  7. I was looking Austin Healey Le Mans style at when my bonnet kept springing open, but my problem was caused by trying to used the latch to "square up" the bonnet when it closed. Once I accepted that there should be no force on the catch when it closed my springing open problem went away.
  8. Phil, if you are reading this thread, be careful with the bosch pump comment, the ignition coil gets stressed with long periods of power on without the engine running, hence the 30 second suggestion for your Lucas system was meant to be the max limit. Bob
  9. I'm thinking get the bonnet fully aligned on the car and the catch pin at the other end of the garden!!, then , with cargo straps ready under the bonnet, introduce the pin and fixing plate but without the spring, masking tape over the hole in the bracket and gently lower onto the tape to get an idea of potential alignment, adjust accordingly, bias slightly away from the latch(towards the front of the car) finally fix the plate and check the pin hasn't moved, then spring on, latch fixed open gently lower the bonnet onto the bracket (I'm going to extend my tube so the pin can never become trapped at the bottom) and see if it will come up again!! ... All good, release the latch and see if it works!!, just final height adjustment needed. Well that's the theory!! Leather straps and buckles maybe a better look!! Cheers Rob
  10. Thanks Rob, that’s sounds like an excellent suggestion. It makes me wonder if whoever reconditioned these pumps set the end stop for the pump to deliver 105 to 110 on the bench. I’ll sleep on it and see if I’m brave enough to invalidate my warranty in the morning. Once again many thanks, Ashley
  11. Thanks Tom, very useful, Just to clarify, does your '3' have wire wheels, as opposed to solid wheels to which your comments refer. Barry C.
  12. Hi Ashley, a Lucas pump should be capable of delivering 120psi give or take a couple of psi, that's why you have the PRV, I wonder if the 2 pumps you've had have had the end stop (little grub screw and nut on the end) set just slightly too tight causing the pump to bind when it gets hot (they do run fairy hot at the best of times), it would invalidate any further warranty you may have but you could always try slackening the stop by 1/2 a turn or so, you should hear an increase in the speed of a running pump as you do this, also feed the pump directly from the battery via a fused relay. Cheers Rob
  13. I think you've got the wrong forum Rolie
  14. I'm surprised at all this bonnet catch shinanegans, I'm restoring my car and the bonnet catch hasn't been fitted yet- has someone got a definitive answer as to the best way to align this with the spring part?? Or should I too go down the piece of rope road as others have jokingly mentioned?? Michael
  15. Thanks Stewart. Looks ideal......I’ll try making one.
  16. Yet to fit mine as well which is some time away but while its a bare shell I think I'll cut a round 30mm hole at the rear through the bulkhead and fit a rubber grommet just in case given the grief Stephen's going through I'm not sure I'd be quite as laid back! Removing a bit of dash etc would seem an easier option! Andy
  17. When fitting my Racetorations tubular manifold 20 odd years ago I was hoping the starter motor was going to be reliable and trouble free. Well it has been until now. Unfortunately, it means the manfolds and carbs(webers) all have to be removed to access the starter , not a quick job. I am considering going back to a standard manifold with single exhaust. Has anyone got a twin pipe manifold for sale?. Any recommendations for standard starter motor repair or purchase? Simon
  18. Hi Richard, it might be that my Triumph original bracket (TR4A 1965) is different from a later 6 bracket (same part No. is given for both these days) but but my pin only needs to move a few mm downwards to reach the end of the tube, this is all very useful information for me as I will soon be re-fitting my brand new bonnet, fore warned is fore armed as they say!! ..... Maybe the rope trick is a better bet!! Cheers Rob
  19. Hi Yes Tr6, tend to be on the US spec cars, seal can be got from Moss. Richard
  20. The car is a pre inertia switch model. The old pump was able to drive for 2 hours on the hottest day on record ( 37/38 degrees ) and that was with worn seals and fuel dripping from the overflow pipe. So surely a reconditioned pump should be able to manage 25 degrees. Thanks for the suggestions gents. Since posting, I have continued to scratch my head over this. I think that having just fuelled the with 25 litres of cool fuel and yet the pump still overheats after 20 mins is some sort of indication of where the problem lies.
  21. The sidescreens have the same problem. It works, but only just ! Bob.
  22. it looks the same as the one on my 72 also a cc model,imhave seen some that are a lot smaller hope this helps.
  23. When I purchased my car it came with 195 x 15 tyres, the car looked great, but heavy steering and too much grip put me off. I have fitted Pirelli CA67 165/80 x 15 and the car is transformed, less grip yes, but more feel, it rides a little better and they look great too. The car has standard road springs with Koni’s front and Armstrongs at the rear (with uprated oil). I’m very happy with it.
  24. Hi I have a CC from 1970. The fuel cap rubber is perished buy looking at Moss to replace it, the design seems different. Googled a bit and it to me, looks like a GT6 fuel cap - can anybody confirm this? Rubber is perished and fuel smell comes from it so want to fix Cheers Richard
  25. I think its for compressing rubber suspension cones on early minis
  26. Hi Bypass the inertia switch to check that is not at fault.
  27. jfg

    FHC rebuild

    I have now solidified the driver side of the car. I still have some body work to do but i'm doing the rust removal first to give a solid body to work with. Before i fit the refurbed front wing i'm redoing the front part of the inner wing. I have never been happy with the first repair to it. Hopefully Friday will see the wing refitted. Then i can put the rolling gear back on to spin it around and start again on the passenger side
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