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  3. Has anyone experienced these. Seem to be discounted here and on amazon with reasonable reviews on amazon. Siegen S0984 Combination Ratchet Spanner Set 8pc Imperial https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F232514456664
  4. There are 2 pins connecting the gear that drives the pump drive shaft. Items 97 & 99. worth checking their integrity as they break. Part nos 500974 & 500975 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-tr5-6.html cheers Peter W
  5. +1 i have a seldom used Snap-On set of 4 ratchet open Enders from 3/8 AF. They have limited use except in narrow spaces on stiff or nyloc nuts. , the need to 'ratchet' every 60 degrees due to the odd leg design encumbers the swing. Too often it would be easier to use an open ender and keep turning it over after each 'turn'. As ever the right tool will be best for the right job.... cheers Peter W
  6. It's now in Imparts, specialist garage. Hope my low revs 30 mins of driving hasn't caused any damage! Flying home. Back next week to pick it up. Thanks to all for your help and support, particularly Waldi and the Dutch Tr6 guys. Mk.
  7. Thks all, the consensus seems to be that they are a good idea. I have seen some middle of the road (in terms of quality) Elora ones on eBay that I will probably go with. The first set of spanner’s I bought were made by Elora (back in 1967) and they are still in my toolbox and being used. Rgds Ian
  8. Sorry to say Matt, you need a recovery truck. Any attempt to drive is likely to wreck the engine. Nigel
  9. Might be worth looking at Neil R’s car and it’s performance on Tarmac rally’s./ sprints etc...looks pretty impressive to me.
  10. Warning long rambling post ! Pondering the rebuild of the 5 because I've not actually got any cash to start it ! and my thoughts are currently focused on a rear anti roll bar. Now I'm really impressed with how BUO my TR6 now handles even with a very average driver the thing goes round corners very well indeed, to the point where the LHC is suggesting the the MX5 seats fitted are not providing enough lateral support and I'm getting complaints ! So clearly the suspension set up is working well ! So back to my point, was planning to fit a similar set up on the 5 but the one issue I have with the rear ARB I have fitted is that it sits under the rear chassis rails and the mountings can catch the ground especially when leaving petrol for courts and the like. Now there is one supplier that provides a rear ARB that fits over the rear chassis rails ( it's a body off job to fit but I'm planning to Re chassis the car anyway) but you have to use their coil over shocks as well. I know that when this idea was being developed on a TR4a owned by. TVG member there were issues because I the shock aBsorber mounting point was moved towards the pivot point, the shock only operated over a very small travel and because of this the shock had to be set quite stiff which in turn lead to the shock getting to hot and putting a lot of strain on the trailing arm. phew finally getting to the point .......anybody got this set up fitted and what are your opinions, please PM me if you prefer to respond privately
  11. You need to check the earth lead is good and nothing else connected to it or it will find any earth it can.
  12. I have a Bosch pump as supplied by Prestige. It's wired through a relay & inertia switch. My issue right now is I've just fitted the boot space interior trim and find the cable supplying the pump a few inches too short to be hidden away behind the adjacent trim panel. I'll pay a visit to CEF or somewhere similar tomorrow for a meter of white and a meter of black cable, I'm just not certain what size to be asking for. Any advice appreciated. Richard.
  13. Hi Alan , DarreN I have a Revington unit and looking my scribbles it looks like the only way it could select overdrive is if there is a positive pulse given to the internal little latching relay and the unit is grounded through the inhib switches. If the inhib switches break then that OD will drop out and will not re-engage until the selector switch is pulsed on again ( provided that the inhib switches are remade ) So it must (?) be the switch pulsing high without being selected to do so. It could be the equivalent of a bouncing switch rather than one having a crisp bang bang action. This assumes that the Revington unit hasn't failed/shorted internally. Best of luck Rog
  14. Eventually got it out using grease gun method, crikey what a mess!!! Anyway piston was corroded - almost all the chrome coating had come off. Bitten the bullet (or wallet rather) and bought a new one.......along with wheel cylinders, clutch master and slave cylinders. Shame you cant get new pistons, all the barrels were salvageable.
  15. Found it to be 1/4 " BSP.
  16. Willie


    Many thanks Stuart. Next time I have the back end jacked, I'll focus my search there! Best wishes Willie
  17. Do you have a spare filter ?
  18. Ethanol requires more ignition advance but how much is an open question when we don't know what % is in any batch of fuel. I think there is a need to collect some TR ignition data and I have a cunning plan well, more of a vision! The standard fan is fairly ineffective at very low car speeds and at idle, it just drifts air past the radiator and at high speed, it gets in the way as the incoming air is faster above <>50mph None of this mattered much in the old days but it does now. An electric fan is the way to go. The starter crank hole in the rad is not just a hole, it blocks the tubes above and below it. Maybe 20% loss of cooling area, a rad without it is way better (sorry!) I'm a keep-it-standard person but the fan and hole-less rad became essential for touring. James' comment about water, ethanol being hygroscopic, is an interesting one. I don't think we know too much about fuel with water and its effect on vaporisation. I'll ask Paul. Mike
  19. Yep at 50th, which was great. Truck on way. Hot and stressed!!
  20. Hi matt sorry to hear your bad news, have you, just left the 50th anniversary, it could .be the pump valve or the drive dog, I would be inclined to get a truck to bring it home, and bite your lip, we have all been there pink
  21. If you used a longer bolt with two more nuts, the bolt could still turn in the lever hole. Bolt head / washer / hole for the pin / washer / nut <-- these firmly tightened against each other. Then space for the lever and two nuts firmly tightened against each other.
  22. I still have a 1/2” 9/16” Snap On ratchet spanner from around 1973 which is still working. But do beware of a worn ratchet as ones knuckles can receive a serious pasting if it decides to suddenly slip (so I found out). Kevin
  23. Just dismantled the PRV. It's not that.
  24. Hi Darren I ooking through the forum I found this thread I have a logic box with the sane fault did you ever find the problem ? Alan
  25. Take the PRV out and clean it and ensure it is free. I had exactly the same issue and it was the piston jammed open. The pump displacement is relatively small so it will run at zero if PRV open. Unlikely to be the pump. Colin
  26. I had a similar noise from my TR3B a few years ago that turned out to be a loose dynamo pully (as others have suggested earlier in this thread). It's an easy thing to check, so worth having on the checklist. Although from your video, Stan, it sounded more like the noise was coming from the rear of the engine.
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