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  2. Hello Roy, a bit dusty - but you can see the Details of the pressing quite well Just think it beeing mounted on the other side ….. Regards, Johannes
  3. That's superb! How do you form/round the edges? Gareth
  4. Today
  5. hi all, does anyone know of an tr3a electrical wizard in the Milton Keynes area? need help! len.
  6. Yesterday
  7. Hi RoyM ~ Here's a photo. of my blanking plate from my post TS 60,000 TR3A. I don't know if this is of any help to you? Regards ~ Tom.
  8. Great, Many Thanks, John.
  9. Hello again chaps, i wonder if any one can help with a picture of a post TS-6000 peddle box blanking plate, my car is a TS-76000, and the peddle box blanking plate on mine was just a flat off-cut of steel cobbled together by a previous owner, i know that they differ between models with the pressing. and yes i know i could buy one but as i can move steel i thought i would give it a go.
  10. I found the contour of the "Honey" top over the windscreen capping was not perfect fit. Requires some additional shaping and filler work.
  11. Do you have a fuel filter between the pump and the carbs?
  12. Have you considered fitting the TR6 booster M/C combination.
  13. A local club member sold me a NOS pipe supplied by JC Whitney about 50 years ago. Still had all the stickers on it with a bit of surface rust. It fit perfectly. If JC Whitney could get it right... Tom
  14. My daily driver is a Ford S Max 2.0 litre diesel...heavy car about 2500 kgs in loaded condition with front wheel drive. I bought this car from my firm after driving it for 4 years as my company vehicle, (now at 11 years old with 164,000 miles on the clock) at first I left the tyres Michelin Primacy in their original positions and the steering tyres (front) wore down to 2mm after 14,000 miles near enough on the button. The rear tyres were at 5mm and I put a new pair on the rear moving the rear tyres onto the front, and after a further 8,000 miles I again moved tyres at the rear moving them onto the front, and again after a further 8000 miles etc etc . The rear tyres on all cars and especially front wheel drive cars have a much easier life than the front tyres. The fronts obviously have braking, steering and driving the car to contend with whilst the rear tyres merely suspend the weight of the car and have corning and braking forces (less than the front) but no steering or drive forces to contend with. Also the front engine positioning means weigh upon the front axles is about 15% more than at the rear. Hence the rear tyres wear down considerably less but if the front tyres are not rotated front to rear the rear tyres receive many cold/hot/cold cycles which bleeds the oils out of the tyre and the tyre suffers from advanced aging (becomes harder) which again promotes less wear year on year (but less grip). This leads to the scenario where new tyres on the front with their fresh rubber full of moulding oils and of softer compound (even if the same compound as the rear just years younger and with thousands less hot/cold cycles which hardens it) has considerably more grip which leads to the examples as shown in the Michelin video, when the front wheels get to the limit of their grip (front wheel drive or rear wheel drive) the harder rears exceed the tyres grip coefficient and off into the boon docks you go...dangerous. Driving safely is a percentage game, the number of times throughout the life of a set of tyres an emergency stop happens is very low, but the number of times you've driven in teaming rain becoming aware that even lifting off will cause a dangerous situation because of weight transfer, or a corner causing a side force or even the side draught from a HGV pushing your car out of line over a 2 or 3 year period will vastly exceed it...you think not ? it may well be because you are not aware of it, which should make you think again. The best mileage I got out of my Michelin Primacy was a combined mileage of 38,000 miles from a set of 4, which spread the tyres aging and hardening forces as equally as I could amongst the set whilst still allowing good grip for braking and steering available for the front axle. If I had continued to run new tyres only on the front the best mileage I would have recorded would have been 28,000 miles for a 4 tyre turnaround, whilst I would have risked having rear tyres which would have degraded in grip by a much more considerable amount than that available at the front. Interestingly the car leasing company phoned me after the first tyre change asking why I had instructed their tyre fitters to fit the new tyres on the rear after moving the older tyres onto the front, (there was a £10 extra labour charge involved) they listened to my explanation (as outlined here and after gum sucking said ok they'd monitor it). When I again spoke to them after reaching the 38,000 miles mileage for the Michelins apparently it had become company policy after seeing the tread life extension where their company expectation was 30,000 miles on an S Max, what can you teach young tyre fleet engineers eh... well apparently a great deal !). As a professional driver I was expected to drive to the conditions and if that meant slowing down an extra 5mph or expecting the unexpected that was part of the job. Driving to the levels of grip both cornering and braking was an expected skill... and yes having an unseen car or object in front which caused you to have an accident was not necessarily absolved as "that's life" without questioning and objective examination of what caused it..and no I didn't have one, but I know drivers who did. As a clincher for anybody who questions what Michelin (and other tyre manufacturers say, this advice is now universal) their advice actually removes money from their pockets ! Eh...what how come ? If new tyres are fitted to the front of a vehicle because they are softer (even if the same manufacturer and compound) and share braking, steering and acceleration forces they wear out quicker than if they are fitted to the rear, hence the tyre manufacturers recommendation of fitting them to the rear reduces their tyre sales with the increased mileages covered because nobody replaces worn Michelins with new Goodyears (unless a disaster has occurred). So driving experts (as well as me) and tyre manufacturers say fit new tyres to the rear, now I'm not against the idea of ploughing a lonely furrow I've done it many times...but really ? Mick Richards
  15. Its connected straight across the dash tell-tale lamp Roger, and just cable-tied to the dash support bracket.
  16. Hi Keith The ones in pic 2 are the ones I purchased (along with door cards & new door caps) only to find no fixing brackets in the door. My top door pulls are like Bruces & have aged & cracked (the dash seems to be of the same vintage) which again makes me think they were original fit. In the end I purchased new top pulls from TRF which seem good quality although I haven't fitted them yet. In the interest of originality can anyone confirm when the change took place? According to Moss it was from CR5001, however my car doesn't seem to match that. Alan
  17. Thanks Pete, sounds like a good idea.
  18. Oooh, I like that. How did you wire it?
  19. I thought these holes were there for some sort of jig, rotisserie, robot or other contraption with which the shell held on while it rotated through the paint shop or assembly line???
  20. Actually Chris - you've given me an idea......I could connect the indicators to the horns......left and right of course! Wife - 'Turn left', Me - 'do you mean Hi or Lo'?
  21. Roger, the catch tank in not really relevant. All it does is stop any oil that comes from a crankcase breather from dripping onto the road. Try a length of hose from the rocker cover into a milk carton or similar. I just have a hose hanging down and pointing towards the chassis, and I haven't noticed any more oil on that part of the chassis than on any other part. Pete
  22. When I was poor and could barely afford to keep a TR on the road I bought tires in pairs, occasionally. Otherwise, unless one gets an irreparable puncture early in its life I buy 4 or 5 at a time ( per Chris's #4 above ). Tom
  23. "Covert urinal?" Ceci n'est pas un trou ? (OK that was Dechamps not Magritte but still.......)
  24. As you state the hole is for the jack....but only on TR 2-4 where the chassis passes next to the hole and the simple pillar lack fits to a bracket on the inner face of the chassis rail I also suspect it was retained as it formed a paint drain hole for when the shell was dip primed. A Similar big hole is found in the rear of the boot floor. Peter W PS Do not forget the floor panel hole was the same size from TR 2-6. TR 2 originally used a steel plug retained by a spring strap. These are currently being remade by me.
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