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  1. Today
  2. Get a custom sized multi layer cover so it fits tight, especially if it's going to be for outdoors..Loose fitting universal style will shift around when the wind blows and scuff the paint.
  3. If you want the gauge to set up the fuel pressure , I set mine at the PRV end of the MU feed line, in my case that's in the boot. There's more space to set up the gauge and temporary connections. I set the PI pressure with the engine off. I don't believe there's much pressure drop in the MU feed line between the PRV and the unit- even at full load. If you want to leave the gauge permanently fitted to the MU with the engine running or while driving , I'd be worried about vibration unless I fitted an automotive quality pressure transducer to the T piece and connected to an electronic
  4. Yesterday
  5. This would connect direct to the MU and the fuel pipe will screw on to the bottom thread so that should be alright. Something like this: As for the LH threads, I'll give them a ring to confirm this isn't just a reversed picture or something. Gareth
  6. Thanks to all for your best wishes, I realise that the numbers of my birthdays keeps going up but my excuse is that I keep wakening up every morning (long may it continue) Bob
  7. I'd check the actual pipe diameter and threads on your PI system- after 52 years many of the components on my car have been changed and your's could be the same. The threads on the T connection on that fitting look to be LH - like those used in Australia for bottled gas.
  8. I now own things I didn't even know existed 12 months ago. Well, after a year of making a lot of mistakes and learning that does not seem so overwhelming to me now. I took one look at it when I first joined the forum and someone linked me to it and I ran and never went back. I think I have enough experience under my belt now to actually do the TR2 course. Thank you for pointing me back in that direction.
  9. My box of bits and bobs has arrived I'll clean them up tomorrow but they look in much better nick than the current set
  10. well all i have in the way of tools are the ones you mentioned, so i am really well and truly buggered
  11. What is wrong with the pinned links that David Bee started? This link finds the Moss printed parts catalogue with all the tech tips we added plus it links to 5 pdf docs of the TR2/3 wsm http://tr4a.weebly.com/triumph-tr-pdf-downloads.html Peter W
  12. Bringing this one back up as I'm planning to fit a tee piece so I can hook up a mates fuel pressure gauge which is a female fitting. Can anyone confirm this should do the job? It's a male, male, female 3/8 bsp fitting, I would fit a blanking female cap when the gauge isn't connected. Thanks Gareth
  13. Thanks gents. Rod
  14. Which car? Yes always 5/16” tank to pump via the petrol tap. For pump to carbs. Depending on inlet pipe types fitted to the float lids of the carbs. It can be either be 1/4” for all push-on connectors or 5/16” if you have banjo fittings. Cheers Peter W
  15. You will recall thatTS1 and TS2 were not built on the production line - perhaps that accounts for the possible difference in mouths? Ian Cornish
  16. Why bother, plenty of TR trailing arms on ebay.co.uk and ebay.com (UK and USA). Fixing a problem that doesn't exist. If you're not going original you might as well design something better not a basic copy out of some old steel box section you have lying around the back of the workshop
  17. Happy Birthday Ken, hope it’s been a good one…..so far Iain
  18. Think you are right Rob
  19. Does anyone know off hand the correct dia for line to pump and pump to carbs. i.e what size for the AC pump inlet and outlet. I think 1/4 to carbs and 5/16th tank to pump Thanks. Rod
  20. As a forward for those who really have never touched a spanner in their lives the first Port of call would be the local technical college adult learning dept courses. They often have DIY motor mechanics for beginners. this a basic understanding. and a good leap off point. The instructors tend to be mature guys that remember the days before module change mechanicing. To be honest if you have never done much if any DIY car maintenance you could be looking at a significant expense in tools purchase as a hammer, chisel and a tape measure wont really cut it. Rod
  21. No insult intended, just I don't 'do' facebook, or twitter etc. Regarding the mouth on TS2, I recall Wayne mentioning there was a difference when TS2 and MAW333 were side by side.....
  22. Unfortunately the "Wash & Go" didn't work & I now think the dust is actually comming from the cooton fabric itself breaking down, so it seems to have had it. I've just spent a small fortune having the car professionally "refinished & detailed" as I can't be bothered any more (sad!) & so will be looking to get a new cover. I may need to store the car outside temporarily for a couple of months & so was thinking of a decent quality outdoor cover, assuming they can also be used inside when the TR eventually gets it's garage back; do they work equally as well inside? This leads
  23. All checks done brake pads replaced, rear springs removed and sprayed blue. Run out tomorrow to Bodrhyddan Hall for a car show then MOT on Wednesday. Mike Redrose group
  24. It looks nice though, doesn't it? Brave attempt by the supplier. Another weak spot may be the sharp cut-outs. Sharp non-radiussed corners can be starting point for fatigue. I would add a radius, like R25 in those windows. A test period as done by the supplier will help identify short-use related issues, but a component like this requires long exposure to the actual loads (ie many miles) to show those defects. The challenge is weight versus strength and stiffness. A welded component (fabricated we call it in our industry) can hardly beat a cast item where the design can be
  25. Mike, where are you based? I am located in East Beds. H
  26. I am sure there are plenty of solutions out there but this is what I did to mount the phone. Used: Result:
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