john.r.davies

Red is the worst fading colour, so yes, the shade does change. Does it change in the can? No idea. Sorry!

Best way is to remove the studs. A stuck head is always stuck to them not to the block face. Crud gets down the space between stud and head and jams them. Double nutting, or welding a nut to the top of the stud will usually get them out. They're cheap enough to replace! With the studs out, hitting the head sideways with a soft headed hammer, or a club hammer via a wood block, will get it loose. John

The RSBP's Big Garden Birdwatch is this weekend. (ref, above) That might provide some details on loss of birdlife.

Ooooops! I forgot that capillary type sensors are filled with ether! In that case DO NOT HEAT!!! Thanks Rob!

Try heat first. As the whole assembly has been removed, no risk to other parts, but in case the housing is Mazak metal, no hotter than 200C. Allow to cool, and try again. Next, Innotec Deblock penetrating oil. Apply liberally - a 'dam' of plasticene or other modelling clay around will allow you to leave a lake of it to soak in. Try the nut every day, turning it both ways. Once it loosens continue turning both ways, until you can achieve a complete turn. When trying to turn right out, STOP at any 'screech'! Apply more oil and turn both way until the screech stops. T

Thank you, Andy! I'd been debating in my mind whether to fit my cooler to the PRV return, or the aupplybtonthe pump. Your explanaton has resolved me to the first. John

https://www.rallynuts.com/motorsport-ancillaries/racetech-thermal-indicator-strips.html Packet of ten , about a £ each. Choose the right range to order! John

My apologies! The above "more than 30C" was from memory. A brief look in the boot, and the temptabs register 50C! Quote a bit more. I'm considering how to fit a small fuel cooler from a Toyota Rav4 diesel: John

Jimt, I've measured fuel temp (temptabs stuck to various parts) at more that 30C, like PodOne says, body temp and warm to the touch. Paul, while the exhaust could contribute, most heat comes from compressing the fuel for Pi injection. John

Not just corrosion sediment. Often loads of casting sand, been there since it left the factory!

Ah. Which points out the need to ask your question properly, giving all the relevant detail. We're not bloody psychic.

Absolutely, MIckey! David, the Brown Bible I quoted is a modern copy of the Official TR6 Workshop Manual. EG https://www.abebooks.co.uk/servlet/BookDetailsPL?bi=31809250004&dest=gbr&ref_=ps_ggl_2039220669&cm_mmc=ggl-_-UK_Shopp_Tradestandard-_-product_id=UK9781869826130USED-_-keyword=&gad_source=1&gclid=Cj0KCQiAs5i8BhDmARIsAGE4xHyPkXu-rLM-O-VWknNefb8fWd1SLuTmce8OogIB5yVgmRznrygC29QaAgqiEALw_wcB Very good value and IMHO essential for anything more than checking your spark plugs. John

Apart from what is lost to the air, this adds heat to the fuel going to the M/u. Counterproductive, I'd say. John

The above figures in green are from the Brown Bible. Hope they refer to what you want, David. Keith, a well experienced mechanic can apply a more or less correct torque to a fastener using their educated arm. Then "hand tight" is up to 20lbs.ft, "arm tight" 30-40lbs.ft, "As tight as you bl**dy well can" anything above, with an ordinary spanner. Extra long spanners, and a torque wrench IF properly adjusted and calibrated can do more torque, and more accurately. I would beg to suggest that using anything other than a properly adjusted torque wrench to tighten cylinder head nuts

Which just added more heat to the fuel! I'd hate to add it to the argument - this is a mod I've been considering, as my system is not standard and not fitted to a TR! I've used 'temptabs' to find that my fuel does get rather warm, so I'm keen to do this. Thanks for suggesting a C4 cooler, PodOne. Anyone, used a different part? John