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  1. Have you set up the wheel bearings with factory endfloat? If you have try tightening them just enough to remove the endfloat and that should cure it. All my Triumphs will fail the MOT on loose bearings with the factory end float and I gave up trying 30 years ago. Pad knock back is a symptom of loose bearings. Neil
  2. You don't need to remove the pinion if you are just removing the metering unit. Saves messing up the metering unit timing. Neil
  3. Simplest solution is just to send it all off and get it recalibrated. They always get richer with mileage due to wear on the shuttle and end stops in the rotor. The metering unit has to be removed before you can check the max and min shuttle travel which is actually a DIY job. The rectangular black plastic cover held on by 4 screws conceals the metering track. With the linkage at the bottom of its travel (no vacuum full throttle) there should be about 56-57 thou gap between the rollers and the centre part of the rotor. This is adjusted with the little threaded widget with a locknut a
  4. Our local group leader told a tale from many years ago when he was taking a car for its MOT test after a rebuild. He had fitted the spinners on the wrong side (never thought to check) When the first front wheel fell off after a couple of miles he just thought he had forgotten to tighten it (it missed the bodywork as it fell off and he rolled to a halt on the brake disc. Shortly afterwards the other front wheel parted company. This time it happened at the top of a long downhill section and he then had to persue the wheel for half a mile, but fortunately it missed all the other cars an
  5. Looks like it could be a bit of a beast! I can understand the 4.1 diff on a 4 pot, especially if 1st gear is a bit tall. Back in the early 1990s I fitted a Dolomite sprint engine to my TR6 (I had fitted the 6 engine to my PI saloon, long story). The Sprint engine had equal performance to the PI unit, and did 40mpg on a run but was definitely struggling with hill starts with the 3.45 diff and 15 inch wheels. I swapped the Sprint 2.99 1st gear for a big saloon 3.3 1st gear which helped. I left it like that when it went back in the Sprint. It handled a lot better than the straight
  6. I have heard of people having problems with cars parked on steep driveways. Carb flooding when the car is parked front end down, and fuel running back to the tank when parked front end up. Neil
  7. I always brim my fuel tanks and check the mpg on every fill up. Having 5 Triumphs on the road means sometimes they will go a month or two without being used (particularly this year) For years I have noticed a car parked for a month or two will always show poorer mpg figures when I next fill it, even if I get it out of the garage and drive it for a couple of hundred miles and know within about 1 or 2 mpg what it would normally do. Some of it obviously evaporates, but I have never had one off the road long enough for starting to be a problem. Neil
  8. Also looking forward to this. No steering lock on my TR250 anyway Neil
  9. I have tried a variety of fans over the years. The one fitted to my TR came off a Citroen CX2400 in about 1990. Sucks about 20 amps but blows a gale. I wasted money on a cheap ebay 120 watt fan that I fitted to a Stag. I knew it wasn't going to work before I fitted it. The blades were long and thin with a pronounced curve across the chord. The shape at the tips was such that the curve of the blade was pushing the air at the leading edge and pulling at the rear, the net effect being to absorb what feeble power it had without actually propelling any air through theradiator core. I
  10. Unfortunately as standard the bearings do spin on the shaft (both front and rear) and eventually you have play in the hub even when the bearings are tight. I went for the spacer option many years ago and it stopped the problem of stub axle wear and significantly reduced problems with brake pad knock off which would see the pedal hit the floor on auto solos. Eventually bearing failure wrecked a hub as the outer race spun instead of the inner. At this point I went for an upgraded hub, stub axle and bearings Neil
  11. Children never really appreciate the good things in life!
  12. Looks like your hub has broken in two. The bit inside the bearing should be attached to the outer part of the hub. That was a good spot and a lucky escape! Neil
  13. I had this problem when I first had my TR which eventually knocked out one of the UJs . When I came to replace the UJ I realised the shaft had been assembled 1 spline out (prior to my ownership) so I re-assembled the shaft with the UJs aligned properly and the vibration disappeared and the UJs have lasted 70,000 miles since then. Neil
  14. The problem here is the height of the pickup that rammed him, and looking at the damage to the rear end it looks like the wheel of the pickup was pretty much in the middle of the GT6 which might be why his wife survived. The pickup must have pretty well driven over the top of the GT6 and I doubt that anything other than a full roll cage would have helped
  15. The return pipe on my EFi Stag engined TR250 used the original fuel oulet pipe as the return for many years until the original tanks sealing layer of fibreglass was eaten by the ethanol in modern petrol. The alloy tank I had made to replace it has the return into the sump of the tank close to the outlet and has never given any problems Neil
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