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Stagpowered

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  1. A few years ago I found tin worm in the bottom of the sills on my TR250 where the clips push on that hold the bottom of the front wing. Since these clips tend to scratch the paint off when they are fitted, I decided to make the patch out of stainless. Just used ordinary mig wire and argoshield The first set of manifolds and exhaust system I built for my Stag engine conversion were made from stainless tubing migged with ordinary mild steel wire. I think they lasted about 17 or 18 years until the welds started rusting through. As the welding process fuses the two different metals together it must mix the chrome in the stainless with the mild steel, so although all the joints were butted up before welding, the rust was about 1/8th of an inch wide which made re-welding the rusted joints more trouble than it was worth. I ended up making a complete new system using stainless wire this time. Neil
  2. I have had two Stag crank assemblies balanced, the first one at Oselli, the second at Vibration Free (they are a bit less of a drive to get to) Oselli balanced the flywheel and clutch cover separately as they both had material removed. Vibration free just removed material from the clutch cover (unless the flywheel happened to be perfectly balanced) End result will be the same, but if the clutch cover ever needed changing it would wipe out most of the balancing. I once had a clutch thrust bearing fail which wiped out the fingers of the diaphragm spring pretty quickly at a very low mileage. Neil
  3. I managed to get my work pick up MOT'd last Tuesday, but the MOT for one of my Stags last Thursday was cancelled as they said they have to reserve MOTs for more critically important vehicles. The garage in question had over a 2 week waiting list for MOTs at the time, but as has been mentioned most dealers are shut so parts supply is an issue. I could register most of my cars as MOT exempt but I prefer to have an MOT. Insurance shouldn't be a problem, until your car has a defect that gives the insurance company a get out. I know of one case over 20 years ago where a TR register member was involved in a fatal accident (not in his TR) He had one bald tyre which invalidated his insurance and the accident bankrupted him. Be warned. Neil
  4. Since the problem has started since fitting the new pump I would think it is most likely the pump at fault. I know the Evans coolant is more viscous than regular anti freeze mix so if the impeller is not a tight fit on the shaft it could spin. Looks like its time to take it apart again Neil
  5. I find 195s on a 5.5 inch rim a bit wobbly on the corners compared to the same size on a 6 inch rim. A lot depends on the car, and it might be less of a problem on a lighter car like a TR but they really don't suit something big and heavy like my Triumph estate which inherited a set off one of my Stags. I will be swapping those for a set of 185s when I change the tyres as there is not enough room to go up to a 6 inch rim Neil
  6. Sounds like a harsh shifting overdrive (the original complaint) could be a cause of torsional overload. I have had a couple of A type overdrives tear loose the pressed in brake ring for the unidirectional clutch. I assumed this was due to the A type having a harsher shift than the J type which is fitted to 3 of my 4 Triumphs. The 4th one is my PI estate which suffered the above failure. Neil
  7. I find its worth fitting a filter after these solid state pumps as the rubber non return valves eventually start shedding particles which jam the float chamber valves (I was using it on a V8 with Holley carb) Eventually the non return valve fails and the pump won't suck. I used to reckon on a new pump every 40-50,000 miles which mattered more when I was doing 12,000 miles a year when my TR was my daily driver Neil
  8. I was amazed how much play was in that new joint, I have had knackered splined shafts that moved that much on both Stags and TRs and have replaced them with new splined shafts in the past. I have rejected second hand splined shafts with less play than that! Neil
  9. Stagpowered

    TR GT

    I like the look of that, personally I think it works better on the 6 than the 4. Access to the boot might be an issue! Neil
  10. I have done several of these but mostly leave the spool unit alone unless the roll pin is coming loose which gives unwanted play in the rack. I have heard of all sorts of problems with exchange racks (with the exception of LD Part mentioned by Mickey), hence if it a good rack apart from a leak I rebuild my own. They are a PITA to get on and off though! Neil
  11. One theory I heard which actually makes some sense is that when the centre pair of pistons are going over TDC at high rpm, the crank is pulled upwards towards the block and the bearing clearance at the bottom of the main cap is increased. This leads to an effective drop in the oil pressure at this point in the crankshafts rotation and starves the big ends of oil. The solution I was shown was to cut a groove around the inside of the main bearing housing so oil feeds around the back of the main bearing where it can enter through the hole in the bottom half of the bearing. This maintains oil pressure apparently more effectively than cross drilling the crank. The straight six has massive crank counter weights which probably counteract this problem. Neil
  12. Those 4 pots tend to destroy their cranks before they have done 70,000 miles if driven gently, and I have killed two of them before even reaching 35,000 miles. Dolomites rusted so quickly they were a good source of replacement engines back in the day! Neil
  13. It is probably a Chinese copy rather than an original Lucas. I have fitted several of these on various Triumphs and they have mostly been ok, though the one had a tendency to eat brushes due to the commutator not being machined true before finally expiring during the autosolo at Lincoln. On one of my Stags the lights flicker at idle as though the output voltage is varying though it has been doing this for 4 years and about 14,000 miles. Although I have not experienced it myself I have heard of others who had premature bearing failure, some rebuilding with new bearings. Having 5 Triumphs on the road means most of them don't do big mileage so I am prepared to take a chance on the cheap ones. Neil
  14. You really need all the butterflies completely closed at idle and let the idle air screw do the idle speed adjustment. If you have cleaned out the throttle bodies you will get an idle speed of over 2000 rpm, I made that mistake when I fitted PI to my USA spec TR6 about 30 years ago. There is generally enough wear in the bodies to allow sufficient air to pass down the side of the butterflies even if the edges are closed against the body. I would suggest smearing some very thick grease around the butterfly seating area and give each set a good rattling open and closed to make sure they are properly shut before you synchronise the linkages. When you have accumulated some mileage the gunk that come from the engine breather will gum up the gaps around the butterflies, but the grease will help until then Neil
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