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  1. Did you ever measure the run out on the old discs? My TR used to consume about 3 pairs of discs for every set of pads. The run out was dreadful and every few thousand miles the judder would be back. The fundamental problem was the outer races of the bearings were not a good fit in the hubs. When I moved to expensive vented discs I had to fix the problem so sourced a good pair of second hand hubs. This fixed it. These days I have moved on to the CDD hubs with the uprated bearings, and I am still using my original pair of vented discs. They are getting a bit thin now though.
  2. One more from this batch, DVLA says this plate is now on a brown TR3, MOT expired in March 2020, but could be exempt I suppose. Anyone on here own it?
  3. Same batch of photos, TS2 perhaps
  4. I was given some Triumph photos by a friend whose wife works in a charity shop. The photos were donated to the shop and most of them seem to come from the late 40s/ early 50s. When I first saw this I thought early TR2, then noticed the odd little side lights. Next I realised the back end is all wrong. Could this be the car that went to the motor show as the concept car that lead to the TR range Neil
  5. My PI saloon had a labyrinth seal under the filler cap. It wasn't very effective at keeping fuel in when the tank was full. It used to centrifuge out of the nearly horizonal filler tube when cornering hard, but I never had any problems with the tank pressurising. A build up of pressure in hot conditions is not unusual due to the volatility of fuel. Just leave a square plastic 5 litre fuel can in the sun for an hour or so and see what shape it becomes! Neil
  6. The life expectancy of these boots seems to be measured in weeks, I use cut down steering rack gaiters as they last for years Neil
  7. A previous owner had been juggling the balls and plungers on my gearbox, It used to jump out of third on the over-run. IIRC the grooves in the shaft for the plungers and balls are different widths and as a result mixing them up meant they wouldn't grip properly. Putting them back in the correct places fixed that problem. I also used to get the two gears selected at once problem, further investigation (many years later) revealed the interlock plunger was also missing and was fixed by fitting one from a spare top cover I happened to have lying about. Neil
  8. Reminds me of a guy delivering stuff to my farm a year or two ago. He had a 3 day old new van, and was driving into a village where he saw a car parked by the side of the road. Suddenly the dash lit up and it let out all sorts of warning sounds. Totally distracted, he looked at the dash to see what was going on and ploughed into the parked car writing off both the car and his 3 day old van. Source of all the flashing and noise was the collision alert system he didn't know was fitted That didn't work did it Neil
  9. Not quite original, but still a Triumph engine..... Neil
  10. If you just need the pedal higher off the floor, find or make a slightly longer push rod from pedal to master cylinder. It only needs to be a few mm longer, if you measure the ratio from the pedal pivot to the pedal rubber verses the push rod location to pedal pivot you should be able to calculate the extra length needed to lift the pedal the amount you require. Be careful of bottoming the seals in the master cylinder, I welded a bolt to the clutch pedal so it hits the bulkhead before the master cylinder bottoms out. Neil
  11. As I read it, it effectively tells the metering unit to go to full throttle when you are accelerating at part throttle, once you get past a selected rpm. I assume that once the rpm drops below the set point it switches off the solenoid again. Two problems I can see with this. 1, thrash it round to the red line and the metering unit will stay full rich even with the throttle shut until the rpm drops below the set point. Sounds like an invite for bore wash. 2, If letting the engine revs build under a relatively light throttle, it will go full rich once it gets past the set rp
  12. Gave up using waxoil donkeys years ago as I found rust would travel behind it and lift it off. Also gave up using even the most highly recommended newer types of cavity wax as of about 4 years ago. I used this on a Stag and found the door skins blistering along the seams this year. Just use engine oil on everything now and give a squirt into the chassis and box sections every couple of years. Rebuilt my TR 29 years ago and door bottoms and chassis are still rust free. Only downside is it wicks through all the seams and needs wiping off every so often. When it stops wicking out i
  13. Make sure your trailing arm brackets are not cracking through the holes where they mount to the chassis. When I had my TR250 to bits a few years ago so I could repaint the chassis, I found all 4 were cracked to the point where failure was not far away, and it couldn't be seen from underneath. I noticed the replacement brackets were a bit thicker steel than the originals Neil
  14. Worth noting that if you normally run with just one person in the car you can set it up empty but can find the drivers side rear wheel will show signs of being out of alignment if you do a lot of miles without rotating the tyres. This happened when I first set up my TR6 about 30 years ago so I tried it again with bags of sand in the drivers seat and found I needed to add or remove one shim (can't remember which) When I got my TR250 back in 1992 I set it up the same way, haven't needed to touch it since. Neil
  15. Have you set up the wheel bearings with factory endfloat? If you have try tightening them just enough to remove the endfloat and that should cure it. All my Triumphs will fail the MOT on loose bearings with the factory end float and I gave up trying 30 years ago. Pad knock back is a symptom of loose bearings. Neil
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