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Stagpowered

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  1. Not quite original, but still a Triumph engine..... Neil
  2. If you just need the pedal higher off the floor, find or make a slightly longer push rod from pedal to master cylinder. It only needs to be a few mm longer, if you measure the ratio from the pedal pivot to the pedal rubber verses the push rod location to pedal pivot you should be able to calculate the extra length needed to lift the pedal the amount you require. Be careful of bottoming the seals in the master cylinder, I welded a bolt to the clutch pedal so it hits the bulkhead before the master cylinder bottoms out. Neil
  3. As I read it, it effectively tells the metering unit to go to full throttle when you are accelerating at part throttle, once you get past a selected rpm. I assume that once the rpm drops below the set point it switches off the solenoid again. Two problems I can see with this. 1, thrash it round to the red line and the metering unit will stay full rich even with the throttle shut until the rpm drops below the set point. Sounds like an invite for bore wash. 2, If letting the engine revs build under a relatively light throttle, it will go full rich once it gets past the set rp
  4. Gave up using waxoil donkeys years ago as I found rust would travel behind it and lift it off. Also gave up using even the most highly recommended newer types of cavity wax as of about 4 years ago. I used this on a Stag and found the door skins blistering along the seams this year. Just use engine oil on everything now and give a squirt into the chassis and box sections every couple of years. Rebuilt my TR 29 years ago and door bottoms and chassis are still rust free. Only downside is it wicks through all the seams and needs wiping off every so often. When it stops wicking out i
  5. Make sure your trailing arm brackets are not cracking through the holes where they mount to the chassis. When I had my TR250 to bits a few years ago so I could repaint the chassis, I found all 4 were cracked to the point where failure was not far away, and it couldn't be seen from underneath. I noticed the replacement brackets were a bit thicker steel than the originals Neil
  6. Worth noting that if you normally run with just one person in the car you can set it up empty but can find the drivers side rear wheel will show signs of being out of alignment if you do a lot of miles without rotating the tyres. This happened when I first set up my TR6 about 30 years ago so I tried it again with bags of sand in the drivers seat and found I needed to add or remove one shim (can't remember which) When I got my TR250 back in 1992 I set it up the same way, haven't needed to touch it since. Neil
  7. Have you set up the wheel bearings with factory endfloat? If you have try tightening them just enough to remove the endfloat and that should cure it. All my Triumphs will fail the MOT on loose bearings with the factory end float and I gave up trying 30 years ago. Pad knock back is a symptom of loose bearings. Neil
  8. You don't need to remove the pinion if you are just removing the metering unit. Saves messing up the metering unit timing. Neil
  9. Simplest solution is just to send it all off and get it recalibrated. They always get richer with mileage due to wear on the shuttle and end stops in the rotor. The metering unit has to be removed before you can check the max and min shuttle travel which is actually a DIY job. The rectangular black plastic cover held on by 4 screws conceals the metering track. With the linkage at the bottom of its travel (no vacuum full throttle) there should be about 56-57 thou gap between the rollers and the centre part of the rotor. This is adjusted with the little threaded widget with a locknut a
  10. Our local group leader told a tale from many years ago when he was taking a car for its MOT test after a rebuild. He had fitted the spinners on the wrong side (never thought to check) When the first front wheel fell off after a couple of miles he just thought he had forgotten to tighten it (it missed the bodywork as it fell off and he rolled to a halt on the brake disc. Shortly afterwards the other front wheel parted company. This time it happened at the top of a long downhill section and he then had to persue the wheel for half a mile, but fortunately it missed all the other cars an
  11. Looks like it could be a bit of a beast! I can understand the 4.1 diff on a 4 pot, especially if 1st gear is a bit tall. Back in the early 1990s I fitted a Dolomite sprint engine to my TR6 (I had fitted the 6 engine to my PI saloon, long story). The Sprint engine had equal performance to the PI unit, and did 40mpg on a run but was definitely struggling with hill starts with the 3.45 diff and 15 inch wheels. I swapped the Sprint 2.99 1st gear for a big saloon 3.3 1st gear which helped. I left it like that when it went back in the Sprint. It handled a lot better than the straight
  12. I have heard of people having problems with cars parked on steep driveways. Carb flooding when the car is parked front end down, and fuel running back to the tank when parked front end up. Neil
  13. I always brim my fuel tanks and check the mpg on every fill up. Having 5 Triumphs on the road means sometimes they will go a month or two without being used (particularly this year) For years I have noticed a car parked for a month or two will always show poorer mpg figures when I next fill it, even if I get it out of the garage and drive it for a couple of hundred miles and know within about 1 or 2 mpg what it would normally do. Some of it obviously evaporates, but I have never had one off the road long enough for starting to be a problem. Neil
  14. Also looking forward to this. No steering lock on my TR250 anyway Neil
  15. I have tried a variety of fans over the years. The one fitted to my TR came off a Citroen CX2400 in about 1990. Sucks about 20 amps but blows a gale. I wasted money on a cheap ebay 120 watt fan that I fitted to a Stag. I knew it wasn't going to work before I fitted it. The blades were long and thin with a pronounced curve across the chord. The shape at the tips was such that the curve of the blade was pushing the air at the leading edge and pulling at the rear, the net effect being to absorb what feeble power it had without actually propelling any air through theradiator core. I
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