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Stagpowered

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  1. Stagpowered

    TR GT

    I like the look of that, personally I think it works better on the 6 than the 4. Access to the boot might be an issue! Neil
  2. I have done several of these but mostly leave the spool unit alone unless the roll pin is coming loose which gives unwanted play in the rack. I have heard of all sorts of problems with exchange racks (with the exception of LD Part mentioned by Mickey), hence if it a good rack apart from a leak I rebuild my own. They are a PITA to get on and off though! Neil
  3. One theory I heard which actually makes some sense is that when the centre pair of pistons are going over TDC at high rpm, the crank is pulled upwards towards the block and the bearing clearance at the bottom of the main cap is increased. This leads to an effective drop in the oil pressure at this point in the crankshafts rotation and starves the big ends of oil. The solution I was shown was to cut a groove around the inside of the main bearing housing so oil feeds around the back of the main bearing where it can enter through the hole in the bottom half of the bearing. This maintains oil pressure apparently more effectively than cross drilling the crank. The straight six has massive crank counter weights which probably counteract this problem. Neil
  4. Those 4 pots tend to destroy their cranks before they have done 70,000 miles if driven gently, and I have killed two of them before even reaching 35,000 miles. Dolomites rusted so quickly they were a good source of replacement engines back in the day! Neil
  5. It is probably a Chinese copy rather than an original Lucas. I have fitted several of these on various Triumphs and they have mostly been ok, though the one had a tendency to eat brushes due to the commutator not being machined true before finally expiring during the autosolo at Lincoln. On one of my Stags the lights flicker at idle as though the output voltage is varying though it has been doing this for 4 years and about 14,000 miles. Although I have not experienced it myself I have heard of others who had premature bearing failure, some rebuilding with new bearings. Having 5 Triumphs on the road means most of them don't do big mileage so I am prepared to take a chance on the cheap ones. Neil
  6. You really need all the butterflies completely closed at idle and let the idle air screw do the idle speed adjustment. If you have cleaned out the throttle bodies you will get an idle speed of over 2000 rpm, I made that mistake when I fitted PI to my USA spec TR6 about 30 years ago. There is generally enough wear in the bodies to allow sufficient air to pass down the side of the butterflies even if the edges are closed against the body. I would suggest smearing some very thick grease around the butterfly seating area and give each set a good rattling open and closed to make sure they are properly shut before you synchronise the linkages. When you have accumulated some mileage the gunk that come from the engine breather will gum up the gaps around the butterflies, but the grease will help until then Neil
  7. When I set up the rear toe on my TR250 25 years ago, I ended up with slight wear on the drivers side rear tyre after several thousand miles. Can't remember whether it was the inside or outside all these years later, but with an empty car it still checked out as ok. I decided to ballast the drivers seat to approx my weight, and re measure. There was a slight change in toe on the drivers side (I nearly always drive solo), so I removed a shim to correct it and never experienced the wear problem again. Neil
  8. I think you have miss measured something, cam lift will only be 7-8mm with 10-11mm lift at the valve Neil
  9. I made a set for the rear of my TR250 about 25 years ago by cutting up a polythene 25 litre chemical drum. I riveted it to the inner arch and used rubber seal similar to the boot seal against the outer wing. The aluminium rivets seemed to act as a sacrificial anode and back in the days it was my daily driver used regardless of weather, the rivets used to corrode off annualy. Don't use it in when the roads are salted any more and the rivets last quite a few years! Neil
  10. I have 3 engines running on megasquirt, two Stag engines and a Rover V8. Once they are set up properly they don't need to be touched again unless you alter the mechanical parts of the engine or exhaust system. The only time I have had problems was when on one of the cars the the 1980s throttle potentiometer started to give problems and I was able to swap it for another I had in stock. The most difficult part of setting up is the cold start, so if it starts ok then an hour or two on a rolling road will get a full fuel and ignition map done. I went megasquirt because I knew that if I managed to get the first car up and running myself, I had several more to get done and will probably be doing my 4th one next year. It worked out much cheaper doing it that way. If the current owner has a laptop with the megasquirt program and the leads to plug it in, get him to show you how it works. Neil
  11. You say it was taken off the road in 1982. Has it been standing for the last 30 odd years? If it has I would hazard a guess at rust pitting in one of the bearing races or on the gear teeth in the overdrive. I don't think it would be layshaft as that gets worse in the first three gears, and in any case if it was caused by corrosion from standing, the layshaft would be immersed in oil so should be OK. I have had input shaft bearings get tired, but again they give similar symptoms to layshaft as it isn't under load in 4th gear, and the rear mainshaft gear also isn't really loaded when in 4th. There is a thrust bearing in the overdrive, but I can't remember whether it is loaded all the time or just when the overdrive is either in or out. Neil
  12. Most likely a 125 engine as it has the later inlet manifolds with the twin balance pipes between each pair of inlets Neil
  13. Stagpowered

    Metering Unit

    I had the same problem on my TR6 about 30 years ago, the shuttle had stuck in the metering unit. It used to do it intermittently and free off when I cranked it over with a couple of injector pipes slackened off ( I reckon not fighting against the injector opening pressure gave the shuttle the extra shove needed to free it). Eventually it refused to start and being skint I ended up stripping the metering unit and spent half an hour polishing the shuttle by poking it back and forth through the rotor using two wooden cocktail sticks and T cut as the polish. Did the job and it never played up again but I wouldn't recommend it to anyone. I still remember finding how tight the tolerances were when reassembling the unit. The heat from my hand was sufficient to expand the rotor enough to prevent it from going back into the metering unit until I left it to cool down! Neil
  14. A few years ago I bought a 2 door Triumph Toledo with very new tyres on the back, can't remember what make but I think they were eastern European, and a very old set of Vredsteins on the front which were starting to crack on the sidewalls. A week or so after buying it, I managed to spin it on a wet road, ironically on the way to the Stoke group TR register meeting. I managed just over 270 degrees before I slithered to a halt with trees either side of the road. The trees and hedges are festooned with number plates, glass, bumpers etc so it is obviously a slippery bit of road! I realised very quickly that the new tyres were absolutely lethal after swapping them to the front end and finding the car ploughed on in a straight line whenever a corner was encountered. I very quickly fitted a new set of quality tyres all round (on Dolomite Sprint alloys) which removed the terror factor, apart from the fact Toledo's are so poorly damped they are dangerous at speeds of over 50mph unless on a smooth road. My conclusion is that by all means fit new tyres to the rear, but not if they are economy specials! Neil
  15. Stagpowered

    ECU help

    You say it has been to emerald twice. That sounds like it has been set up by them, and has subsequently developed a fault. If it has been fully mapped by them I would suspect an ignition fault if it is ok at light throttle but the missfire occurs under load. Could be dodgy coil pack or simply a spark plug problem. Neil
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