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c.hydes

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About c.hydes

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  • Location
    Exmouth, Devon
  • Cars Owned:
    1974 TR6 PI

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  1. What make of Avon`s Stuart? Colin.
  2. Thanks Rob, green/black wire disconnected from sender and connected to earth, gauge the increases to "slightly over full". But sender was Ok with 10L, but not at 15 L, so maybe the resistance track on the potentiometer at this point (15L) is dodgy? Need to find a way then to lift the float higher need some sort of internal diagram perhaps. Colin.
  3. OK thanks Steve and Rob. So Steve, the black wire (small spade terminal) has a zero ohm, good connection to earth. You suggest disconnecting the green/black wire (large spade) from the sender and measure resistance from this terminal to earth - correct? Rob, when I look down I see nothing, do we have some sort of pictorial on what the tank sensor looks like inside the tank so that I can maybe lift up the float and measure its resistance from where it is to the top? All I've done is add 5 liters of petrol? Cheers
  4. Fuel gauge has always worked OK and over the years never had any issues. Today tank had approx. 10 liters of fuel, and a dipstick test indicated about 100mm of petrol from the tank bottom, and fuel gauge indicated circa 1/6 full. Added another 5 liters from petrol can and now gauge doesn't move off the stop position to the zero mark - its dead? I put a DVM on the tank terminals and it read 12.4V dc (battery voltage), but after 10 seconds the DVM reading switched to "OL" and the voltage bar on DVM display was "flashing" indicating an overload. Any suggestions on how the sensor w
  5. Think you maybe be scaremongering here. If you refer to headlamps yes probably will be a fail, but my car passed MOT last year with LED brake lights/rear marker/front side lights.
  6. On my tank the hole through the tank is 7.9mm, but the original pipe I/D when removed was 6.2mm. The new adaptor I/D is 7.9mm all way through, so increases the diameter by 1.7mm. This gives an increase in I/D of +30%, but an increase in area of +65%, so for a fixed head of petrol this must be a significant benefit without re-drilling and re-tapping the tank? Colin.
  7. John, got mine from here: https://www.trgb.co.uk/products/large-bore-fuel-tank-outlet-pipe
  8. If you mean the petrol tank, mine is 1/2" UNF x 20TPI. Just brought a larger adaptor (brass with push on adaptor)to allow more fuel to flow and it screws directly in in place or the nut and copper pipe. Colin.
  9. No Stuart I don`t have any "title document". The car was imported by the specialist car builder, I asked if I could have the plate when the car was handed over to me on completion of the rebuild. Thanks anyway Colin
  10. OK Stuart, but what does a Tun-dish look like its very dark in there, long way and a long way from the filler hole to the LHS? What about a piece of thin wood with elbow to "feel for it", would that work? C/
  11. Apologies if posted before but is there anyway to positively determine if my tank has this modification? Someone said that if it has "a small dimple" near the bottom fuel outlet it, has some sort of internal baffle to prevent cornering problems, ......... if so where is it? Regards, Colin.
  12. Thanks Mick, that's a relief, its a Flamethrower 3 ohm 40611 epoxy filled so presumably OK to mount horizontally? Colin.
  13. I have a J-type, and I'm sure I have seen an article or comment from someone on the Forum recommending that there is also a "secondary filter" as well as the main rectangular filter? This should also be cleaned. Is this true, and how do you get to it/remove? Regards, Colin.
  14. Thanks all for your ideas but noting comes up on those sites. Not to worry, just thought someone on the forumn may recognise it from across the pond. Cheers all, Colin.
  15. I`ll go for ................................"if you have another petrol car add 1/2 gallon of the old fuel into a tank of good fuel".
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