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Andy Moltu

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About Andy Moltu

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    Moderator
  • Birthday 09/26/1963

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  • Website URL
    http://www.leicestertr.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

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  1. Changing to differnet coil/shock combinations isn't that simple - you need to know what the lengths, diamenter and spring ratings are in comparison to the 4A to be able to know if they will fit. Likewise you need to know the damper mounting compressed length and range of movement as well as the stiffness compared to standard. If you go for adjustable shocks they can be set at the lower end off stiffness to suite the ride you are seeking. As stuart says the standard springs are pretty soft so begs the question as to whether someone has fitted uprated ones in the past. What tyres
  2. You can get generic alternator brackets on Ebay and elsewhere for less than a tenner (the Racetorations looks like a way of spending money for the sake of it) and alternative fan belts of the size you chose from places like Bearing Shop Measure your existing one and go up a size or so.
  3. You do wonder if the staightening process may induce stresses that will shorten the life of the crank? Probably not as much as overrreving by a thousand! However I don't see you becoming a 300rpm rev limit pootler Mike.
  4. The caliper spacers are easy to get hold of - Big Red flog them on EBay. In the day they were a common mod on Cortinas which used the same calipers. There was a kit sold by a number of the suppliers a few years ago with the discks and spacers for the calipers. When the kit cam it was in an ECB box. However the kit is no longer being sold and I have struggled to find out what the original discs were. Tried ringing ECB who denied all knowledge! Presumably the kit didn't come with the same profit margin as a 4 pot conversion and died out. On the assumption that my discs will wear out ev
  5. That's how it works with auctions. So if planning to bid it is always worth working back from what you are willing to pay and set your bidding limit accordingly. Depending on the auction house the buyers premium may vary so don't get carried away as you will be paying nearly 40% more than you bid in this one. The other thing to take home from this sorry tale is to mark any big bits you hand over for work or record the serial number so you can prove your ownership.
  6. How are your engine mountings? if they have sagged it might explain things.
  7. You can get the tool for a 14mm spark plug (I have one) used it on my 4A when fitting a thin belt conversion.
  8. Waterless coolant is probably ok if your cooling system is in good condition- if the rad isn’t in good condition you may push the heat transfer limits. If you don’t get all of the water out then the anti corrosion benefits are reduced. It is flammable. It is expensive. Regular antifreeze water mix is fine but the corrosion preventative pack means it needs flushing and replacing every 2 years. Modern red antifreeze lasts longer because it has a different anti corrosion pack, but there are concerns about the impact on some of the metals in older cars and if mixed with th
  9. It’s not really the back end twitch that is the noticeable benefit if the CV jointed shafts it is the smoother power delivery powering out of bends. The “Teflon” coated splined shafts had already rid my 6 of the twitch but I was genuinely surprised how much difference the CV jointed shafts made. No doubt the CVs will wear out in the same way UJs do. I think the inners are Alfa GTV ones, but not worked out what the outer are.
  10. Paul -I shouldn't have to tell you there is an easier solution than additives - drive the car! On a more serious note I suspect that a great number of our cars will have done far less mileage than in normal years and next year, if things improve, will see more breakdowns as a consequence of not being used, with oil draining away and bearings, UJs and bushes running dry because they haven't had the regular use.
  11. Do you actually have a spark when this happens. Pull a plug and see if it sparks (or use a spare) If no spark you are looking at somewhere on the ignition.
  12. If it is the same as the Stag it's a case od shove it on. A bit of a git of a job as I vaguely recall and I'm sure that Allan Westbury said the same when he did it on his 7 last week.
  13. I'm with Mickey - fitted the CCD drive shafts first to the 6 and then to the Stag. They make a big difference to the ride. The difference on the 6 was more marked than the Stag, even though the 6 had uprated driveshafts already. So much more smooth and planted delivering power on wide, sweeping bends. As well as the added security of a modern hub.
  14. As I recall a lot of the leaks concerns (other than as a result of being too thin) came from the early days of Mobil 1 - one of the firrst widely used synthetic oils in the UK. Apparently the additive package in the early days inadvertantly omited the one that helps maintain the seal / seal swell and leaks appeared. I believe most good oils - mineral or synthetic contain swell additives these days. As the Duckhams chap says - many modern oils are formulated for modern cars with cats and zinc as packs are not good for cats. Our concern is that the alternatives are not necessarily so e
  15. The desogn of the hub is essentially fine as decades of use before failure confirms. However they are all getting old having been subject to repeated stresses. The very act of disassembly generally requires considerable force. Do not rebuild with out replacing the stub axle. This works out expensive and it is probably more cost effective to replace with new which are available from the susual suppliers. Do not opt for a rebuilt one unless the supplier confirs the stub axle has been replaced. New ones aren't cheap but given the catastrophic consequences of one shearing it is not
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