Jump to content

Andy Moltu

Moderators
  • Content Count

    2,143
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

3 Neutral

About Andy Moltu

  • Rank
    Moderator
  • Birthday 09/26/1963

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://www.leicestertr.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

Recent Profile Visitors

808 profile views
  1. These were the ones I put in the 4a. H4 LED they can be separated in the middle to allow the doughnut to be fitted. They can be put back together 180 degrees rotated which puzzled me at first as one headlight had a perfect dip cutoff and the other completely wrong. Undo turn180 and all was good. I used ones with a heat sink and no fan because I know of a few where the fan has failed and shortly followed by the bulb. A bigger passive heat sink has one less component to fail. 18 months on so far so good. Would a more expensive set have been better for me or the vendor? Time will tell.
  2. Andy Moltu

    Metering Unit

    UCheck the plastic drive dog. Remove the union of no 1 or 6 injector pipe and turn the engine over slowly by hand and you should see the “hole” in the metering union come in and out of view as it rotates. If it doesn’t then the drive dog may have failed.
  3. If you have filled up with diesel there would usually be a good deal of smoke. Pull off the fuel pipe at the carb end and see if fuel flows freely - if it does then it's unlikely that the tank is blocked. Condensors are a significant issue these days and if one goes it may well run like a dog, backfire and possibly stop altogether, so don't assume it was just fuel as a possible culprit
  4. That's what I did. Avoids recycling blow by gasses and oil into the combustion.
  5. Andy Moltu

    EWP in a TR6

    You wouldn't need an EWP to achieve this - merely an oil cooler that is plumbed into the cooling system. This way the warm water heats the cold oil and cools it when hot. I think the VW Corrado had on of these and looked at trying it on the TR (as I recall it used the same oil filters as the spin on kits for the 6 but it turned out not to be easily adapted fot he TR)
  6. Andy Moltu

    Mr

    Not likely to be timing - even if way out will still inject (& probably run). As Mike says likely to be a fuel supply issue be that upstream of the pump (tank, filter, pipework), the pump or the PRV. If you have access to a pressure gauge - finding a normal pressure of 100-105psi (whilst cranking) largely excludes the above and may indicate that the plastic drive dog that turns the metering unit has broken. And don't disregard a failing battery/poor earth dropping voltage to the pump when you crank.
  7. Andy Moltu

    EWP in a TR6

    There was a kit to move the pump on the Stag and use a belt driven one using the Ford Essex 3l pump. Unfortunately this isn’t available any more. It was made by a guy who sold it through the SOC forum.
  8. Andy Moltu

    EWP in a TR6

    Have a Stag and a 6. Just fitted an EWP to the Stag because the rebuild kits for the mechanical pumps are pants - the seals are not fit for purpose and, to be honest the location of the water pump on the Stag is daft, high in the block and hidden under the inlet manifolds in the V and performance is marginal. Poor quality repro pumps have the capacity tp chew up the jack shaft with catastrophic consequences. As a spin off the controller also controls the electric fan. Not on my thoughts for the 6. Location is fine, works well and simply driven by the fan belt. An EWP is a solution for a problem that doesn’t exist. Pumps are cheap and long lasting. Electric fan switches are £10. No mechanical or financial case to be made for the swap to an EWP.
  9. The current supply of window winder mechanism has the hole drilled much deeper to the door so can be swine to fit the pins.
  10. Some have an additional mount that goes through the wheel arch which also helps to hold the body more rigidly to the chassis.
  11. Andy Moltu

    ECU help

    Haven’t Emerald got the facility to log in to your laptop for diagnostics?
  12. I would advise not to sand or shot blast them before welding as the residue makes welding more difficult. (Grind or vapour clean) Mig welding aluminium can be very tricky - TIG in the hands of a skilled welder is probably a better option and will give a satisfactory repair. Replace your bump stops and check (by jacking up with the spring removed) that the bump stop makes contact with the trailing arm before the shocker gets to full compression.
  13. AFIK: Spring goes inside the door card. Larger diameter outwards so it doesn't bore into the door card. Can be a pig to fit the pins. Personally I don't use the proper pins - I use a length of welding rod of similar diameter. Cut it 3/4 of the way through to the same length as the proper pins. Push this into place and bend the rod to snap off. Far easier than trying to fiddle a short pin in using long nose pliers or forceps.
  14. Andy Moltu

    Boot seal

    Just fitted this to my 6. Works fine
  15. Checking the opening pressure is simple enough with a pressure regulator as Alan says. Just connect the airline to the inlet of the injector and increase the pressure until it opens. If the opening pressure is out of range they can be adjusted. There is a special tool to adjust them apparently.(But who has got one of those at home?) However you can take them apart by removing the circlip and screwing the threads in or out - reassemble and test again until the pressure is right. It's a bit of a faff but doesn't take too long.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.