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Andy Moltu

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About Andy Moltu

  • Rank
    Moderator
  • Birthday 09/26/1963

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  • Website URL
    http://www.leicestertr.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

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  1. It doesn't automatically mean something is wrong. I assume the car wasn't overheating when you were driving? When you switch off after a run the cooling largely stops but some of the heat that has built up in the block continues to pass into the coolant and as it expands it vents via the rad cap (7lbs on a 4A) into the expansion bottle. As the car cools it sucks it back up into the rad. If the expansion bottle is overfull it won't have capacity to catch the fluid that is vented from the rad via the rad cap. When cold the expansion tank should be about 1/3 full. If it checks out with no faults such as a blown head gasket then there isn't anything to worry about. If you have an electric fan on it you could fit a timer relay that keeps the fan running for 30 seconds to a minute after the ignition has switched off. Personally never found this necessary on the my ^ or 4A although the controller that operates the electric water pump and fan on the Stag keeps both running until the coolant temp has come down to the below the controlled temperature.
  2. Any chance of posting links to the switches/fans. Andy
  3. Slightly more common than hens’ teeth. Not many were supplied to high altitude markets - many/most of the PI cars were simply adjusted to run leaner than those supplied for sea level. Manually aspirated cars lose power at altitude which the PIs compound by its failure to compensate for low atmospheric pressure. However many of us have gone over some of the high passes such as Stelivio.
  4. Presume you mean fuel pump?
  5. Apparently there is only one supplier of the original style dash tops. The other parts dealers either buy from them or get them recovered. The cheaper repros seem to have disappeared from the market. In defence of Rimmer’s I bought a pair of the repro door tops for 6. Went for the cheaper ones. Took me a few weeks before fitting them and discovered one had a defect (someone has clearly slipped with a knife trimming off the excess from the moulding. Rang them and they asked if I could email an image of the faulty part. Emailed back to say that it seemed to be a one off defect so they would send me another. Replacement with me within 48 hours.
  6. There is a difference between the long term protection you want for an engine an limited wear that is important for rings to bed in when running an engine in. Running on oils are formulated to allow limited wear but would lead to premature wear if used long term.
  7. Was the plan to weld the edges & cuts? Do they make a zigzag attachment for MIG welders?
  8. I filed down a pair of M4 captive (cage) nuts they need a couple of ml to get them to fit in front to back - I also took the square nut out of the cage and filed that down so I could squeeze the cage enough to get it to fit in the square hole in the door frame. Wind window down, remove the weather strips and fiddle! I used a small magnetic pick up to stop me dropping it into the door whilst I got it in place and pressed it in with my fingers. Went ok on passenger side and psyching myself up for the drivers door!
  9. If it is a CP the existing ignition feed should be 12v.
  10. Andy Moltu

    Gear Oil

    Some GL5 oils have ingredients that damage the yellow metal parts in the gearbox. Not all, but some and GL4 does a perfectly adequate job so reducing the risk of an expensive gearbox rebuld! I have to say I have become a convert to Penrite Gearbox Oil 40 of late. Since the 6 box was rebuilt I could occasionally beat the synchro in 3rd using 80/90 multigrade but since swapping to that I haven't beaten the synchro. I had a similar experience with the Stag which again was rebuilt when good quality synchro's were not readily available and after the experience with the 6 I swapped the gear oil and the synchro is much more effective. A bit stiffer to get into 2nd when cold. (Reminds me of the the 6 back in the 1980s running in EP90 on frosty mornings - the first shift into second sometimes required a firm hand)
  11. The cables lose their stretch over time. When you pull the hadbrake on you pull it on a few clicks - the clicks being teeth on a ratchet, with a new cable the elasticity of the cable keeps the tension as it drops on to the last tooth it clicked past. With an old cable the lack of elasticity means the tension drops just a tiny bit as it relaxes onto the to the tooth. No amount of lubrication will get the elasticity back. By all means lubricate a good cable but it may not be worth the effort if it's getting on say 10 or 15 years old.
  12. That's a good thing - if performance improved with a change in plugs it means the old ones were the wrong ones or defective. I think my 6 was less prone to going fluffy after being stuck in traffic for long spells when I swapped to the multi-electrode plugs but there again the plugs they replaced were getting on!
  13. You would hardly think there would be enough profit in faking a bog standard plug but if you have manufacturing capacity churning out cheapo plugs, putting a label from a premium brand bumps up the profit margin and there's no real risk of warranty replacements.
  14. Sorry I can't find the email. On behalf of the Leicester Group I emailed a number of the "classic" oil suppliers asking about their ZDDP content, most were forthcoming and as I recall the Millers Classic products were at the upper end of the ZDDP spectrum. (The data sheet on theie web site doesn't specify the level beyond saying "full"). Castrol, Duckhams and Penrite were all happy to divulge their levels which again were pressy similar to Millers. Morris Lubricants gave me one of the more patronising replies suggesting the ZDDP level wasn't relevant. Their customer service dept didn't get the the irony when I replied it was relevant to the question I asked! Not bought any products from them since. Interestingly I did find out from another source what the level was and it was pretty low and below what was considered optimal for our cars. The Opie Oils web site is pretty good in that it allows you to filter the search including ZInc additives.
  15. Does that mean you beleive the oil bearing the same name is identical to that of the 1950s? Triumph made recommendations based on the lubricants in regular use in the day. No doubt that may have involved deals with lubricant manufacturers to get a discount!
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