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Andy Moltu

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About Andy Moltu

  • Rank
    Moderator
  • Birthday 09/26/1963

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  • Website URL
    http://www.leicestertr.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

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1,968 profile views
  1. Check the wires that leave the alternator. Light came on and not charging. The alternator was checked and was deemed fine. Replaced the spade clip and all was good.
  2. As Mick said. Unless your cam supplier gives gaps for both hot and cold the only way is to go with the figure you have (for example 10 thou cold) and check what the tappet gap measures at when hot. Or if you have a cam that the figures are say 24 thou hot, set it to that and measure again when cold. Then write it down for fuure reference. Unless someone has the same cam as you it will be difficult for anyone else to give the figures you want. If you cam is standard you might be in luck.
  3. It doesn't take long to pull the rockers off. You are going to need to check the tappet gaps after pullng the head down anyway so compared to the time to do that the 4 pedastel nuts are pretty quick to do.
  4. Were you anywhere near the steering column?
  5. Andy Moltu

    53 today!

    Self incriminating should not be requested. Speed at 5000rpm depend on gear ratio m'lud.
  6. Yes this is a wiring issue with the inhibitor switches. If it works o 2nd the mechanical side of things must work.
  7. Having tried the regular exhaust systems on my 6 including the twin silencer system I would not waste time on finding a link for a sports manifold to this system. Pretty sure the likes of Phoenix supply the link pipes. The best IMHO is a 6 to 3 to one manifold and a single exhaust. The volume being determined bt the silencer you opt for.
  8. Head stages are a bit of interpretation. Does it mean gas flowed, big valves, raised compression or a combination of 2 or more? Different suppliers have different descriptions so it may mean virtually standard or just short of race spec.
  9. Warm the car thoroughly. Depress the clutch and try starting the car in gear. If that doesn’t work, jack up both wheels, start the vehicle in gear, and with the clutch depressed dab the brakes.
  10. The location of the alternator does risk them being cooked as well as the impact of the 4 pots inherent vibrations does expose some poorer quality alternators. Folk say the Nippon-Denso as fitted to one of the Nissan Micras is a good option but beware copies.
  11. Did the very first Scottish Islands Tour 30+ years ago and been meaing to go back to the outer islands. Next year. (Either that or the Shetlands)
  12. Most certainly mounted correctly there seems to be a high spot on the clutch cover (it was rebuilt by a firm in Leicestershire (Ibstock as I recall) a few years ago when I last changed the clutch) Have had the one I removed and rebuilt by Precision Clutch Components in Somerset so will fit that. (Posted on Friday along with the old Helix driven plate and arrive back in Wednesday) Flywheel fine.
  13. Existing Lacock and Helix driven plate had been in for several years and a lot of miles. Decided that with a trip to the French Triumpg event in Cognac and Sweden later in the year that a clutch swap in case the Koyo had eaten the fingers might be sensible. Rebuilt Laycock, new Helix and Koyo bearing put in in time for France. Started slipping on the way to get the ferry. OK if on light throttle so did the trip. 31mpg! Took it apart this afternoon. Thoughts on the cover? The rebuilder has ceased tradiing! Seems to be a high spot.
  14. That's pretty drastic for a simple head swap - must have flowed a lot more air to lean out and do so much damage in such a short time. You wonder if the initial set up was too lean and the head swap has worsened it? Or is the fuel pump not delivering enough fuel and causing the leaning off at high revs? No pinking I presume.
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