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Andy Moltu

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About Andy Moltu

  • Rank
    Moderator
  • Birthday 09/26/1963

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  • Website URL
    http://www.leicestertr.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

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  1. Check the flow to the pump is clear. Also check the fuel pressure as if too high it generates more heat.
  2. This applies to jacking up cars with CV jointed drive shafts -if you jack up by the chassis alone and remove the shocker the force of the spring over extends the joint. Jack up by the trailing arm and release at either end - the big hub nut is done up to 215ftlbs and needs more than this to undo it. Probably easier to undo at the inner end which allows the trailing arm to drop without applying force to the drive shaft and allow spring removal. If it doesn't then the only option is to undo the hub nut but that's a struggle sometimes.
  3. In the video he adds Valvemaster to compensate for the octane drop.
  4. It seems a lot of hassle to remove the ethanol and impractical when touring. If you are potentially losing 10% of your fuel each time with E10 it is probably easier to swap your flats and pipework or buy ethanol free fuel. I suppose you could get the coloured water/ethanol tested for toxic remains from the process and see if fit for drinking. Is that what WKD blue is when a bit of soda steam CO2 added? It is a bit of a reverse of what we occasionally did when I was a kid in Norway when the wet weather would mean outboard motor's 2 stroke fuel would sometimes suffer from water co
  5. If you plug it, will it not stop the waxoyl from settling as the vapors can't escape until you plug it? May not matter if it functions in it's semi-liquid state. If you drill a box section and leave it unplugged it may well fill with water unless the hole is at the lowest point so any water entering or condensing water vapor can drain out immediately.
  6. I always wondered what stopped the cam bearings from rotating when fitted to the 6 pot. Given that mine were not significantly worn, I resisted the temptation to fit them for the sake of it, just because the engine was apart. The 4 cylinder TR engines have screws/pegs that pass through the block wall to hold the bearings to hold them. But if the shells were to rotate a few degrees the oilways would be obstructed with the inevitable consequences. I’m not convinced too many machine shops would have the knowledge to know what size to machine to. Likewise John’s equation might test the
  7. Do they still do that? I tried to get a replacement set of discs from them and they denied they ever supplied them! Big Red also supply the spacer its for use with the calipers when used on Fords, but that's an expensive way of buying the seals alone!
  8. You can get polyurethane spring isolators in different thicknesses that do fit.
  9. It’s one of those things that for some reason gets perpetuated. There is no reason not to split the caliper and replace the seals. As with all brake works care and cleanliness is important, but it is just a seal like any other. I have never understood why they are so hard to obtain other than to to keep work for those supplying exchange items.
  10. Why are we still burning the wine lake now we are out of the EU?
  11. Rumour has it that our former chairman Phil Tucker is working on an electric TR.
  12. I would say converting any of our cars is a bit too soon. Electric technology is improving in the automotive industry but, is it there yet in terms of range and charging times on purpose built vehicles? As for conversions I would say nowhere near really. At a realistic price I don't think so. It will come but I wouldn't do it yet as there is a real probability of swapping it to something far more effective and practical in a few years time. Who goes "Wow" at the sound of a washing machine?
  13. If the other pipes come off the junction, undo the other pipes. Cut the offending pipe off as near to the end as you can and make a new flare. They are easy to do with a hand held tool such as this inexpensive one There may be enough length on the existing pipe, if not you can knock up a new one or get a local garage to knock you one up. A roll of Kunifer (copper alloy) pipe and pipe ends is a useful thing to have if you ever need to replace another pipe. Once the junction is off you can sometimes use a vice and undo the pipe but the 4 way unions are inexpensive.
  14. Good grief - I didn't think speed limits applied to TRs
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