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Andy Moltu

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About Andy Moltu

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  • Birthday 09/26/1963

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

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  1. Just converted the Surrey on the 4A to use a 6 header rail and Push fit fixings to attach the rear of the hood. This makes putting up the hood pretty much as simple as it is on the 6.
  2. Somehow, even if you omit the first 1 it still sounds expensive for a rubber bumper MGB.
  3. The concern with using 20 50 engine oil in a gearbox is that some of the viscosity modulators will break down when subject to the shearing forces in the gear mechanism. This isn’t a problem if you are prepared to change the oil annually. Otherwise I would stick with decent 40 gearbox oil or EP 90 providing it is marked as safe for use with yellow metals an overdrive.
  4. Out of interest why do you want such a ratio? You mention a different engine.
  5. No the antenna is built in. Seems to receive a decent signal mounted in the boot of the Stag near the fuel pump/relay.
  6. I went for a cheaper option https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Vehicle-Car-Truck-Tracking-Relay-GPS-Tracker-Device-GSM-Locator-Remote-Control/312817899515?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 put a 1p mobile sim in and works fine so far on the Stag and will fit to the 6 and the 4A shortly. comes with YunTrack software which is basic but functional. Has the facility to remotely cut the circuit to the fuel pump and texts you if it leaves a chosen boundary. You can track it from phone PC or iPad. £16 and does a job. I tried a similar one but the software was pants and didn’t cope with the UK sim options which required you to choose the net settings.
  7. The electric guages are the better option for pressure testing in real use conitions. The analogue ones are fine for measuring pressure when you've got the bonnet open but you don't really want a pipe full of fuel at pressure in the cockpit when driving. A weak pump or a stuck PRV may read an entirely normal 105 PSI at tickover but you need a prv that functions to allow a good pump to deliver that pressure at full throttle and max revs. A tired pump may well not deliver enough fuel to maintain 105psi at the flow rate needed for ful beans and revs - leading to the pressure dropping and the mixture leaning off and the power dying away precipitously at high revs.
  8. The original hub design was fundamentally OK. Rebuilding a 50 year old hub without replacing the stub axle is not a sound option. At best they will be old and fatigued and likely to have that process advanced by the forces required to take them apart. Rebuild with a new stub axle is fine, however that can work out more expensive than a new hub which in turn isn't much cheaper than an uprated hub with CV jointed drive shaft (OK you have to buy a pair of them but if one wheel bearing is knackered the other is probably aging) The CV jointed drive shafts give a smoother drive than the UJ ones which is why modern cars use them. The splines on worn standard shafts have a tendency to lock up and give the rear end twitch that the IRS TRs, Stags and 2000s are famous for but that is largely overcome by fitting shafts "Teflon" coated splines from the like of Proptech. It's down to choice once safety has been taken care of.
  9. What exactly do they do better than the standard one?
  10. Powder coat silver with lacquer. lasts a lot longer than paint on wheels.
  11. A worn distributor will be that whether or not it has points or an electronic module. Timing scatter is more pronounced on a worn dizzy running on points. A rebuilt dizzy with an electronic module will be better still. No need for adjusting or replacing at regular intervals. Even if the cheapo ones have a finite life they will probably work out cheaper than the sets of points they replace before they fail. One and an identical spare in the boot as a reassurance that can be swapped quicker than a set of points can be fitted, gapped and timing set. And - probably the biggest issue at the moment, means you don't have to risk fitting one of the garbage condensers that seem to be the ones in circulation.
  12. 1/8" rod (welding stick will do) with a small nick cut in it will be the most easy method. Surgical mosquito forceps and the like will not grip firmly enough without too much of the pin being held to push through or the forceps/pliers are so thick that access is restricted. On an original winder with an original spring and escutcheon you might be fine but it's still a pain. The newer winders have the drilled too deeply (near) the door frame which can make the job a swine to the point that you might have to shorten the spring slightly to get it to fit.
  13. I thought all the CPs had flat blocks. The CRs certainly has the recessed blocks but didn’t think the CPs did. If you skim the block the recesses will diminish so they will need re machining to accommodate the fire ring on the head gasket or machine them out completely and use a CP gasket.
  14. Look upon a Stromberg as an over complicated equivalent of an SU. Similar when working well but with more to go wrong - diaphragm an o rings to fail but more expensive to rebuild. Should you actively swap from another? Not really. If you want a swap for performance consider Weber or injection. Strombergs have less scope for alternative needles than SUs when making changes after cam swaps or other tuning.
  15. There is a better mod to the back rail. Uses these Click fasteners. Put the two catches in the rear frame and the pins in the back of the hood. These are metric so either re-tap the stiffener or turn a nipple on the end of a 1/4 uni set screw. The rear hood then just clicks in. To release press the buttons on the fasteners. No messing aligning nuts when it is raining. The other mod is to attach the front of the hood to a TR6 header rail. This is more complicated in that the frame needs modifying as the original fits there 6 the header rail attaches and the top of the screen frame may need modifying to take the fixings unless it already has a 6 screen frame. As yours is a 250 you probably already have the correct mounts.
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