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Andy Moltu

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About Andy Moltu

  • Rank
    Moderator
  • Birthday 09/26/1963

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  • Website URL
    http://www.leicestertr.co.uk

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leicestershire
  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

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  1. No 1 TDC is the same whether you are on a firing stroke or induction - that's determined by the cam. Find tdc. use timing whee to move on 110degrees. Move your dial guage to No1 inlet and ascertain max lift. Without moving anything fit the sprockets. If they don't line up perfectly with no slack on the opposite side to the tensioner, (you can advance the crank by a degree or two rather than retard it as the chain will stretch over time). Once you have done that, dont move cam or crank until the chain is on and the bolts on the cam sprocket are in. There is an element of adjustabilit
  2. TBH the fan simply won’t come on if you have the standard fan in the UK unless you set the ‘stat very low.
  3. If you have the headroom I would go for a 4 post lift with sliding “crossbars” for when you need to have the wheels off. Some come with drip trays so can be used to park another car underneath. I have a 2 post but when I (hopefully) get planning the new house will have a Worksop with a 4 post lift. Two post lifts are ok but you need clearance to get the bars under which can be a problem and you end up jacking up low cars like ours to get them on the lift. On a 4 post to do an oil change you just drive on and lift. On a two post you drive in, swing the lift arms in place and lift (possibly
  4. If it’s for back up, just buy a blower or universal fan. If you want to buy a decent make, I would buy a Spal rather than chucking more money on another Revotec or converting the existing one.
  5. Looking at the sheet - the figures for gaps & lift are imperial, and comparing to the figures for the CP cam on Chris Witor's web site, this is not a CP camshaft, it may perform similarly hence the 150 title. Doing a calculation from some of the on-line calculators I think a good starting point for setting it up would be to set up with with No1 inlet maxiamally open with the crank at 110 degress after tdc. The aternative would be to set it up on the rock which should give you similar timing. A degree or so either way doesn't matter hugely but with any given cam the more you advance th
  6. The need to carry bulbs is a bit of marketing disinformation to boost sales at the ferry port. Personally I run with 35W HIDs on the 6 which are not too bright and have a good dip beam cut off. Are they legal, probably not, are they illegal, again probably not as our cars pre-date the legislation. These were fitted well before LEDs H4s came into general circulation. never failed an MOT and been in for well over a dozen years. The 4a & the Stag have LEDs (Hid's did not give a good dip cut off in the Stag) and these days HID conversions have largely been superceded by LEDs. I
  7. What's the availability of quality wide belts? I am not sure what the reluctance to convert to thin belt should be? On a low revving tractor engine wide belts are fine but in 25 years of driving in convoy around Britain and Europe the only delays related to fan belt failures have been on 4 cylinder cars running wide belts. Often a git to change at the roadside sometimes involving jacking up the engine to get the mew belt on. For me the thin belt conversion is a no brainer. They fail less often and are easier to change. Going to the extent of machining an alternator pulley to take a w
  8. The 6 that had an under bonnet fire was lacking the correct earth strap. On the 6 it is an “all in one” that goes from battery to body shell to the engine at the bell housing. His just earthed battery to body and no bonding of block to body/ chassis. Cranked over reasonably well so started. Presumably short bursts of high current were not too much of a problem however a long spell with heater, lights, fuel pump and fan were enough to heat up something enough to start a fire. He had got through a number of throttle cables over the years and with hindsight they may have been getting hot with the
  9. Wrap the manifold? This will reduce under bonnet heat and noise. A modern starter motor can be accessed without removing the manifold.
  10. Static time as per manual and used knurled adjuster to advance until it just pinks and the retard slightly until it doesn't. Another option is to strobe time so that you get around 32 btc at 4000 rpm and make minor adjustments until it doesn't pink on the fuel you use.
  11. Agree both Hawke and 1144s are excellent road options on a 6. Personal experience with Geensnot are that they should be confined to the rubbish bin.
  12. Not sure that an electical gremlin on the O/D circuit should be affected by the revs. On or off throttle might affect a dicky connection if the wires were swinging possibly but it sounds more mechanical/hydraulic. If the pressures are OK and the filters clear then it would point to the clutch. I've always been impressed by the work done by ORS in Rugby and don't charge the earth.
  13. Or was the phase previously used in Space 1999 even before that?
  14. Gold plating terminals does serve a purpose in preventing corrosion and enduring a long lasting good contact. Speaker wires are a definite area of massive testiculation. Expensive HDMI cables that carry a relatively simple digital signal are another amusement. If a digital signal is readable, it won’t give a better picture or sound going down a better cable. Some coils are resin filled which helps to limit vibration from allowing the coiled wire to move and can’t leak unlike the oil filled ones.
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