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Andy Moltu

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About Andy Moltu

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  • Birthday 09/26/1963

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR6, TR4A & Stag

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  1. The question is whether the bracing displaces loading to elsewhere which may produce premature failure?
  2. I use a bullet filter with the mesh filter before the Bosch pump and a post filter too to stop the fine stuff getting to the metering unit and injectors. The pre-filter helps stop coarse debris from getting to the pump and shortening its life.
  3. Screwfix sell a limited number of sizes but mine came from the restoration show but available on line Places like this not cheap but quality.
  4. The rarer option are “open” ratchet spanners which are even harder to come by but are very useful in difficult access situation.
  5. Might be worth a look on this The water pumps are the same on the Stag as the TR7 ( - if you swap from 6 to 12 vane you need to fit the appropriate cover). It illustrates setting the end float too. The method is the same on the 7 if not the exact location on the 4 cylinder engine. The nut on top of the pump is a left hand thread.
  6. Andy Moltu


    What he spent and what he'll get may be somewhat different.
  7. Yes - you remove the nylon washer (and rubber one if fitted) Press the koni's closed - this allows the lugs to engage which when turned proves the adjustment. Once engaged turn fully anticlockwise and then fully clockwise - counting the revolutions. Then pick a point in-between as your starting point , - set both to this - replace the washer and try it. If too firm - reduce, if too bouncy stiffen up. It's a bit of a pain as to do each adjustment you have to, jack up the car, disconnect the top mount of the Koni, adjust and reconnect. That's why I wouldn't fit front Koni's again- you have remove completely (as they are within the spring) just to adjust them.
  8. Andy Moltu

    surrey top

    Quite a few have fitted TR6 header rails. The cloth is attached to the header rail which clamps over the frame this means modifying he of the screen frame & modifying the hood frame.
  9. The resonance is caused by the PRV plunger moving in and out at high frequency with this frequency coinciding with the resonant frequency of the fuel piping - more likely to happen with old piping that has gone stiff or braided piping which is oftern inherently stiffer. Sometimes twisting or flexing the highpressure line between the pump and prv can be enough or swapping to a different length pipe may help. The diaphagm PRVs are seemingly less prone to this affliction. My experience with them that although notionally set at the right pressure out odf the box, my 6 misfired at full throttle & 5000+rpm. When I checked it the pressure measured at teh metering unit (which is where it is meant to be measured) was 95 psi. Easily adjusted to 105psi. The diaphragm PRVs can be adjusted without petrol leaking everywhere - unlike the the Lucas PRV which is adjusted through the end with the PRV to tankl return rremoved which results in significant fuel spillage if you do it with the pump running. (you could do it with the pump turned off, reconect and check & repeat until you get it right) I did experiment with a chaepo diaphgram PRV (£18) sold as an after market one for the Nissan 3000z from eBay which performed fine, but swapped to one of the "proper" diaphragm PRV's prior to a long continental journey. Had to get a few plumbing adaptors but it worked well enough. The only gremlin was that the £18 prv came with a free pressure guage which blew apart when subjected to 100+psi. However once blanked of it was fine.
  10. This issue relates to all of the IRS TRs as well as the Stags and 2000/2.5 saloons. The hubs are essentially fine however the stub axles are 50 years old so perhaps fatigued already, then someone applies enormous force with a press to separate the hub to fit new bearings and at a stroke takes the metal fatigue from moderate to critical and shortly after the hub breaks. If you decide to replace the bearings, get it done by someone with experience of rebuilding Triumph hubs otherwise you may well get id done by someone with a huge press and a hammer and with it potentially serious consequences. Personally I wouldn't advocate rebuilding the rear hub. New are available, both in standard guise and also uprated. The problem is that the new ones are nearly as as expensive as an uprated one that comes with a CV jointed drive shaft.
  11. I did that with the sump before painting. Left a scum mark like a dose of dysentery in the bath. Let’s say I didn’t get away with it!
  12. I't not just the fraudulent sales. It just cheeses me off when people set a starting price below their reserve. If the bids don't reach a selling price you have wasted other people's time. The same as "call to enquire". You are selling it, you know what you want, why waste potential buyers' and your own time on phone calls to find out there is a difference between the buyer's and seller's valuation. If I won't pay more than £50 I won't bother enquiring if the selling price is £200.
  13. My experience with them was they were no better when warmed up.
  14. Given that the car's lights have inbuilt reflectors relying on the number plates being reflective is pretty unconvincing as a direct safety benefit. More likely that your number plate is harder to read (with the lights off) in the days of Police enforcement rather than cameras. No doubt dressed up as a safety issue. Black number plates can be used on vehicles of pre 1/1/1975 vintage if they fall into the historic vehicle category. I think that before April 205 when the law was changed, the vehicle had to be Pre 1971 (might have been 73) to sport black number plates.
  15. You will have to take it apart anyway if only to refit the master cylinder and the brake lines that run in the engine bay. In the end it's probably not a good use of time.
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