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Grahamgl

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Grahamgl last won the day on November 30 2018

Grahamgl had the most liked content!

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About Grahamgl

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  • AIM
    Grahamgl999@aol.com
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Profile Information

  • Location
    Gloucester
  • Cars Owned:
    My TR4 and TR4a, 60's motorbikes, Model engineering, DIY, cookery and model making, a belief in free speech

Recent Profile Visitors

647 profile views
  1. Vital parts, Google is your friend. Graham
  2. Gentlemen, A couple of questions please. What size and thread is the 45’ elbow that comes out of the cylinder head to the heater valve. A few years ago there was an article in TR Action showing how a stainless steel bush with a plug was used to replace the gearbox filler plug. Can someone tell me what size and thread the original type gearbox filler plug is please. Thanks Graham
  3. A couple years ago I fitted some new repro. wheel boxes. When I fitted the old wiper arms they would not fix firmly to the splines. I bought new arms (Trico as fitted originally), same problem. When I fitted the new arms to the old wheel boxes they fitted and held. So, in my opinion the problem of wiper arms not fitting to the splines of repro. wheelboxes is due to the splines not being up to scratch. To resolve the problem I bought a pair of “heavy duty” ones from Revingtons, the clamp sort. When fitting them I pushed them hard onto the splines and the tightened the screws up tight. No problems since. I think the solution shown by Chris could weaken the shaft that holds the splined end on depending on the size of the self tapping screw. In my view another case of repro parts not being up to the required standard. Graham
  4. Hi Paul, Buy used originals, try the flying Englishmen on eBay or one of the TR specialists in the UK. Graham
  5. Roger, The Rimmer reamer looks totally different to an expanding reamer. On the Rimmer one the cutting flutes are in the middle of the tool and a little way in from the end, not on the end like an expanding one. Graham
  6. Gentlemen, Please excuse my ignorance but can you fit an LED tube in a fluorescent light fitting and, if so, is it a straight remove old tube and fit new tube? Graham
  7. Grahamgl

    New Years meet

    Tim, The Cotswold Classic Car Club are holding a meeting at the Frogmill Inn, Shipton Oliffe, nr. Cheltenham. It starts at 12.00. Graham
  8. Gentlemen, I am starting to restore my 1962 TR4 and restoring parts as I remove them. I am now working on the two dash vents. When I removed them the seals on each end of them, rubber, had deteriorated to crumble nature and thus will need replacing. According to the Moss catalogue the seals are no longer available. I assume a rubber or foam extrusion are my only options. What have other members used please. Graham
  9. Roger, “ little rod that keeps the two balls apart” Take care you don’t get banned from here. Graham
  10. Roger, I have sent you a PM. Graham
  11. Stuart, What is the right colour? Graham
  12. Grahamgl

    Headlights

    Ron, Try and get Durite relays, read on here that they are more reliable. I always use Polevolt for any of my car electrics needs. Graham
  13. Roy, I have just put a clock on it and there was no movement at all. I also put a rod down the tube and moved the follower side ways and the push rod in the adjacent bore moved so it seems to me that all is not right. It seems strange as all I did yesterday was to re- torque the head. Graham
  14. Thanks for the above advice. A though t has occurred to me. Is it possible that by dropping the pushrod down the bore that I have burred the inner top edge of the cam follower thus preventing the pushrod fully entering the cam follower? How deep is the recess/ hole in the cam follower? I have compared the length of the depth of the push rod to using a smaller diameter piece of dowel rod and both depths are the same. Thanks Graham
  15. Gentlemen, On from my post on Angle torque, yesterday I started to re-torque the cylinder head using a calibrated and certified torque wrench. After removing the rocker gear I then removed all the push rods. I re-torqued the head to 143 kns, after relieving the original torque by one flat. And yes, all of the head nuts turned a little further than before. When it came to re-fitting the pushrods some of them went in without turning the engine but, for three of them I had to turn the engine over by using the fan blades to get the pushrods to drop in. However, pushrod 6 is refusing to go down fully, it stands approximately 2” higher then the rest off the rods. I spent 3 hours yesterday afternoon turning the engine over and then trying to insert the pushrod, I was turning it by about and eighth of a revolution each time. When I remove the pushrod it is picking up the cam follower for a short distance and it then drops off. It appears to be dropping back onto the camshaft as the adjacent pushrod vibrates when it drops down. On occasions it appears that the tappet follower is sitting at an angle as the pushrod will not go into it. In retrospect perhaps I should not have removed all the pushrods before tr-torqueing the head nuts. Any advice would be extremely welcomed. Graham
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