Grahamgl

Gentlemen, I am now puzzled. All your comments indicate that the problem will go away once there is the weight of the car on the front suspension. How is it then when I have the front end of my 4A up on axle stands, ie no weight on the front suspension, the wheels can be moved by hand pressure from lock to lock? What is my thought process missing? Graham

Marco, No, the steering rack has not yet been fitted.

Gentlemen, Thank you for your responses. Here are the answers to the questions you raised: Before fitting the springs the suspension moved up and down, the ball joints and trunnions were fitted to the VL with the trunnions fitted to the lower arms to try to ensure that it all lined up Both ball joints are greasable and we’re greased before fitting As it is an early car it has zero degree castor I haven’t tried jacking the chassis, it is bare apart from the back axle I think my plan of action is to compress the road sprigs using the spring compressor

Hi Nick, Yes, but they were a bit stiff.

Gentlemen, I was been rebuilding the front suspension yesterday and have hit a problem. The upper and lower wishbones are polybushed, which were lubricated before installation. The trunnions have been installed, after lubrication, connected to the vertical links and the upper ball joints have been installed ( connected to both the vertical link and upper wishbones). At this point the vertical links turned freely in both directions to the steering stops. The upper ball joints were greased. The nuts on the upper ball joints were not tightened until the vertical links had been fitted t

Art Lipp in the USA makes and sells steering column bushes made from Delrin, for the TR4, so this could be a materiel option. Graham

A genuine new RHP clutch bearing for diaphragm clutches. Bought in error as my early 4 has the earlier B&B clutch. £85.00 to include postage.

There are only four gears plus reverse in my gearbox.

Easy answer to steering column bushes, use a set of Delrin ones produced by Art Lipp in the USA. Put them in my 4A ten years ago, simple long term solution. No need to remove old bushes. Graham

Roger, Thanks for your offer but once I have the dimensions I was going to turn them up on my Myford. Regards Graham

Stuart, I have contacted David and he is unable to help. Peter, Thanks for your suggestion but I want to do a proper job, not a “ bodge”, no disrespect . Roger, Unfortunately the car is garaged twenty miles from my home and I will be unable to carry out the measurements until next week. Graham

Gentlemen, I have started the rebuild of my early TR4 andI am now starting the top front suspension arms. I am missing the two steel bushes that are fitted to the upper ball joints, part number 19 in the attached scan from Rimmer’s website. Has anyone got a couple of them that they would part with or have their dimensions so that I can turn them up please? Thanks Graham

Gentlemen, I sought advice on the Forum on the type of clutch bearing I needed to purchase as part of my restoration of an early TR4. The advice was that I needed to buy a bearing reference 14/W 2. 1/16 RHP. I was anxious that I fitted a good reliable bearing, particularly as I had read about the poor quality ones that are available from some TR suppliers. I managed to obtain a new original bearing manufactured by RHP. I took it with me when I went to collect my gearbox from Tom Cox only to be told it was for the later diaphragm clutch and could not be used without have some machine

Gentlemen, I took a trip this morning to Moss in Bristol to buy some parts for my TR4 restoration. There were notices on the walls and counter that as from today they are closing all their branches, other than London, for counter and collection purposes. In future the staff at these branches will become telephone sales. Graham

Gentlemen, I have this week got my chassis back from painting and planned to start rebuilding the front suspension. The wishbones, both upper and lower have also come back from painting and the identification labels I had fitted had been removed and not replaced. The Rimmer’s catalogue shows that neither of the upper or lower wishbones are identical, I therefore assume that they are handed. Here is an image from their catalogue of the upper wishbones. Could someone please tell me how to identify which wishbone arm goes where for both top and bottom? Thanks Graham