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TR4Tony VC

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About TR4Tony VC

  • Birthday 07/05/1967

Profile Information

  • Location
    NN66JU
  • Cars Owned:
    Many TR’s over the years but including the ultimate rally TR4 BST82B (Beastie) for 30 years and ex Works TR4 5VC since it’s discovery in 2008 and currently being restored to its former glory at home
    Former member of the 3VC Trust and past owner of 3VC

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  1. Hi all Ive had a small run of these made as all the secondhand ones I came across were defective in some way. For the TR4, but my next job is to get some cranked arms done for the 4a if there is enough interest. The black blobs are high strength ABS so that they can be threaded and wont crack, the rods are stainless so that they wont rust onto the sun visors and the centre rods have the groove cut into them which allows the visor to stay up / down in the right position. Not strictly replicas but I think better ! Completely interchangeable and take the same coarse thread screws in th
  2. Hi all many thanks ! A happy evening in the garage … Beasties cousin taking shape. Body back from paint in a couple of weeks …. Then it’s onto Little Beastie before she returns herself …. All go here ! regards Tony
  3. Such a shame - a good friend to many of us so very sad to see him go.
  4. Party on Dude … you’re not 70 really ….
  5. Hi all A few things on cast aluminium sumps from my experience; Firstly, as Ian C says originally the Triumph factory competition part wasn’t used by the works rally team for fear of cracking as the international events got rougher, but they do seem to have found there way onto quite a few period race TR’s, so they definitely had a place. If you can find an original with the part number cast into the sump, they seem to be significantly better than the reproductions. I’ve used a steel sump for this reason in BST82B and I doubt that a cast alloy one would have survived some of the terr
  6. Hi My recent experience is that 10mm hex screws just are no good, similarly the spire clips for them need a lot of persuading to take a 7 1/16 hex screw. Buy the right ones and the job is much simpler. regards Tony
  7. Hi Geoff Soon I hope … wiring is a challenge and a few frustrating issues with new parts (no sh1t I hear you say !) but it’s getting there. Three other half built cars in the air too, so only myself to blame but found some great people to help over the last few years so all should be done this year. Regards Tony
  8. Hi Sorry to hear that you need one ! Remember that the new ones are about 1/4 inch bigger all round than the originals, so you need to shape the bodywork around it otherwise the it interferes and scratches the paint off. Just spent some hours on this myself. Regards Tony
  9. Nigel There are a couple of other things to think about here. Firstly the higher the rating, the shorter the life of the alternator in my experience so it’s a bit of a trade off - I’ve used most of the various ‘compact’ DENSO units and if you can live with it a 50 to 60 amp unit will give you a good 3 to 5 years depending on the treatment in the engine bay (repeated exposure to heat and water basically cook the diode set). They are also a lot easier to get hold of and the genuine ND stamped units are available in the UK. You can also buy a diode set to carry as a spare and if you
  10. Nigel Denso make an 80 amp version, with spade connectors and a small 70mm pulled already peened on. I use these. Anything over 60 amp rating is sufficient. The 40 amp version won’t cope with lights, spots, heater, wiper etc all on at once. if you’re looking on the internet, make sure you buy an OE unit with ND embossed in the rear heat casing - the pattern units don’t tend to last long. regards Tony
  11. I’m looking at having the stainless steel strip made for the Surrey top … as others have said, it’s probably the most difficult bit yet ! But I’ve found a company who can make them by hand from a jig, so it’s a matter of cost and quality
  12. Hi all This is almost certainly cause by the bushes getting into contact with grit or rust and abrading. This is why super pro and other better poly bushes come with a grease to use when fitting. The lesser / cheaper types do too, so that’s not necessarily a guide in my experience, so once again you definitely get what you pay for. The biggest issues are quality of material, which is why I use super pro as a rule, but also how you fit them and what you fit them to. If you nick the collars, they will tear. If you fit them badly, in squint or a obviously under pressure they will ruptur
  13. It looks like the window channel mount at the top of the door by the b post might come down and back slightly - or the top of the channel is gripping on the weather seal -worth looking at before more drastic action ? I also wonder if the roof panel is slightly twisted and could bend downward slightly ? therefore you could pull the screen surround back a touch ? it’s surprising how much a difference a little tweak can make ! regards Tony
  14. Hi Peter It’s worth talking to Pete Eggington at ORS as he supplied all the bits to do the same job for me about 6 months ago. There are some obvious things but you can do a lot ‘while you’re at it’ to make for a much better operating box and OD unit for the same money. regards Tony
  15. The other thing that occurs is if the bearing carrier is too long ? Easy to fit the wrong type if it’s not what came out of the car and some of the reproductions just don’t fit.
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