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TR4Tony VC

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  1. Dave ive done the same job as above, but taped the many holes up and opened them up one at a time to cut down the spray out from too many apertures. If you start at one end and work your way along each leg you can do it without much mess. Infilling the cross tube etc by the same method. I also used clingfish to wrap it to stop the drips - same job with the sills until it hardens up a bit. regards Tony
  2. Hi The other avenue is to look at insurance records if you have the full number plate and any previous ones, tax records, owners details etc but again you run into privacy concerns and problems with expunction of old records. Some states have nothing, some have something depending on the level of computerisation of records - from the early 70’s there might be something. I was able to get a good deal of information about a certain car I have but only because I was very lucky and had knowledge of the ownership details and dates of an accident where it was damaged and a claim was lodged
  3. Hi all A couple of other aspects to think about with coils, firstly the king lead coming off, which tends to happen more often with horizontally mounted positions and secondly with water splash from the road when the weather is gritty and that particular spot on top of the LH inner arch tends to attract a lot. Mounting it ‘clever end’ toward the bulkhead seems to be worse, possibly because water makes its way in the end of the king lead. I've run single and twin coils in the same position as Ian C shows on the same car for over 100,000 miles without any issues, including having the c
  4. Hi its worth looking at the large nut arrangement on top of the steering rack knuckle and which sets the pinion load on the rack. If this gets loose or the rack becomes worn here, the steering gets light at first. it gets very evident when you get a lot of play in the rack, but this happens gradually and at first the steering feels light then you start to feel the excessive movement of the steering wheel before you actually do any steering. regards Tony
  5. Hi all I would be interested to hear from the owner of my old 3a BRX448 which I last saw being sold after restoration by a garage in York I think ? It was painted grey. This car was particularly interesting as when I found it, some sort of sporting history was evident as it had been fitted with a number of very early SAH bits and had a few modifications that hinted at racing. Easy to spot was the vented fibreglass bonnet, the pulled back inner wing, the long trumpets on the SU carbs, the electric fuel pump and the high lift cam. Sadly another car that I didn’t get to whilst spen
  6. Hi all There are issues with both aluminium and mild steel tanks in my experience. Mild steel tanks rust from the inside out if the car isn’t kept full of fuel and / or left for a long time with out use or a combination of both. The obvious solution is to fill up the tank before you park it and also in my case I put a bag of desiccator down the back and recharge it by drying it out in the oven to refresh it. This works well and 3VC’s original banded steel tank for example is in perfect order as a result. Aluminium tanks tend to split in various places depending on how high the g
  7. Hermes pay up the full amount insured within 28 days of a complaint. They do lose stuff, but at least they pay up.
  8. Do PS Nicholson still exist in Forres ? They did an old friends Alvis many years ago and were really good. Body and paint plus the usual mechanics to get it rolling. this was place and the first time I saw someone gently refacing a cylinder head on a thick piece of glass with grinding paste rather than machine it to death. regards Tony
  9. Mike At least two of the four works TR4 rally cars have 10 inch rear brakes and I use these on BST82B and have done for many years, all with steel drums and very good brake linings. 3VC and BST82B have the Revington TR Twin circuit system or similar. 5VC will also. All are basically road rally cars but have done circuit work as part of that as you know. In my experience the 10 inch rears work very well on BST82B in particular and I experimented over a long period with settings on the manual balance bar in front of the 0.75 inch cylinders to get the proportion front to rear right. I’m
  10. Hi folks on the two pictures above in the thread which are attributed to me, 3VC (the interior shot) in fact has a Revington TR fibreglass backlight and the integral rollover bar with a removable diagonal.The fact that none of you could tell speaks to its quality of fit. Some may remember by put we removed 3VC’s original backlight to preserve it and the period the period stickers etc when we were rallying the car fairly hard. The seats are also RTR offerings and predate my ownership of 3VC. The car in the picture below that is obviously BST82B and in that car I have a full Safety
  11. TR4Tony VC


    Hi could you drill out and recut a new thread for a larger metric union ? Available from automech as above. Not elegant but that union is braised in place and braising a new one an old tank is a big job To remove, clean fully, sort, repaint and replace and not without risk. i have done this job with a 60 year old banded tank and it’s no fun. And I did none of the welding / braising myself. regards Tony
  12. Hi all my view is that using all sorts of gizmos usually has not proved to work all that well and in the case of lighting, an enormous improvement can be achieved simply by having good wiring, relays and earths in place and good lamp units and modern H4 bulbs. UK rally regulations essentially forbid LED, HID and non road legal hi power bulbs etc (and in any case they will melt the wiring in a TR) so this is why I’ve put a lot of effort in here. there are some truly excellent 7inch period copy headlight units available for moderate cost, a good selection of ‘clear’ and polycarbonate u
  13. Hi Peter Yes got a variety of solutions now, with changes to kit depending on regulations. FIA are stricter than others but most rally events I can run whatever I like as long as it was available in period or ‘free’. regards Tony
  14. Hi all My experience has been that thicker oil also can make the seals in lever shocks fail very quickly. Essentially the shock heats up inside as a result of continuous actuation of the piston, so the heat is transferred across the body, oil gets very hot and thin and the seals fail. Worse still the piston seizes. This is why a so called ‘upgrade’ with thicker oil Is only a partial solution and there is obviously a limit to the thickness of oil you can use and how long you can use the shocks for with thick oil in them. You can revalve shocks, change the springs in the valves or shim
  15. Thanks all - I think a Stuart has the answer again. Time for more blue paint.
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