TR4Tony VC

You can see why a stub axle or kingpin failure on one of the early cars was quite a happening … especially in reverse on lock.

Which only works if you have the pipes running well up into the chassis …. The original purpose was to protect the low running flexi from being torn off, deleted on later chassis type cars.

I’ll fit Beasties ducts and take some pics of the mk10 arrangements !

This is the weld on short guard, which is a bit bigger than the guard Pete W showed above (which is attached through the edge of the inner part of the chassis rail in basically the same position). This one is fairly easy to fit and you can make it much better by welding a ‘dog one’ across the front cross member to cover the base of the turrets too, then the main guard plate which has two stiffeners either side. There is a bit of work involved in getting this right so that you can then fit the number irons etc but all easy stuff. I recall that 3VC also has a stiffener plate welded ins

If you’re going rallying and want a long guard, this is the sort of thing. Just needs a few L brackets on the outside of the chassis leg and a couple of small plates with nuts welded on at the back corners in the gap after the main rails and cross members are. You can do all of this from under the car when it’s in the air. Regards Tony

Hi Ive done a lot of work on this so here you go. With the small sump shields it’s no different to a standard car, so if you have a cooling problem it’s usually a radiator or water pump issue. If you have a bare stainless manifold this is always a killer and most of the alternator / starter problems I’ve seen are made worse by exhaust manifold heat, so there are a few things there with ‘standard’ bits that are worth looking at first. If you directly duct the carbs and the Distributer side of the engine from the radiator duct, you dramatically increase the intensity of air flow

All the same source … probably 4 selling these without naming names, then similar on eBay. Regards Tony

FYI I’ve recently bought a set of the repro clear sidelights that go on the end of the flasher lamps and the quality is grim. £60 a pair and … 1. the gasket is too large a diameter and is just a bit of flat rubber, not shouldered as the OE part; 2. The holes in the gasket are in the wrong place; 3. The recessed screw holes in the metal body inside don’t line up with gasket, or the attachment points on a TR4 grille - they might line up with the chrome body on the side light ? But I thought they would need to be the same ? 4. the little metal hood inside is too long, such tha

Yes they are very good. I’ve little miles on 1 set, maybe 5000 on another and that set are probably ‘bedded in’ and I think very good. The only seats I’ve found to top them are the Recaro’s in our MK2 Golf GTI, but they are too wide for a TR4 and also 5x the price of the Cobra’s each. Regards Tony

1. Below, OE DENSO with embossing. 2. Not OE no embossing. 3. 3 pin ‘Toyota’ … up to 120 amp. 4. 3 pin connector. Or 5. Replacement diode set with spade connector set

Be VERY careful to buy an original DENSO manufactured alternator, these have ND embossed on the rear heat shield. I’ve been using these for a long time and the real thing are very reliable and easy to mount. MOSS sell all the bits inc spacers and the adjusting bracket, so you just need a bolt, a couple of nuts and washers to shim it into the right alignment - and you will need to do that. My experience is that the life of the non OE DENSO alternators is very short and the diode sets are poorly made. They fail and cause a battery overcharge, which is pretty hairy. I would suggest that you

Hi Dave Cobra Classic RS, (see above) using their own runner (which is the same as the commonly available low rise runner that people like Demon Tweeks sell) with a set of adaptor plates so that the fit the TR4 /6 floor mounts (with additional spreaders under the floor pan, or in BST82B bigger bolts and very large washers). The reason for the adaptor plates is that 5VC was fitted with a set of NOS floor pans, so I didn’t want to then hack them up. I do also have a set of custom race seats as above in another car but these are bespoke - also really good. Cobra worked hard to find me a

That bonnet has all been apart presumably to clean it up, looks like a new lower ‘u section’ which hasn’t had the holes cut and edged back into it … and just not welded together all that well. I’ve just done a another works replica bonnet with an alloy skin and a steel frame starting from what was quite a nice standard bonnet and even pulling the frame from a steel one apart to blast is a good deal of work. Lots of hours in that bonnet, but just not quite the big cigar.

Hi Jerry Yes that was me ! I listen all the time in the garage and can’t help myself. Best radio station on the airwaves I think and Murray is such a proper guy. Regards Tony

That’s the look … SLR with H1 bulb conversions. Reasonable compromise if you want it looking right.