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RogerH

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RogerH last won the day on June 3

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About RogerH

  • Birthday 12/02/1949

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    West London

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  1. Hi Doddle, What is your name? Have you got a good WorkShop manual - this one is one line and is good https://app.box.com/s/830280775a109252d69d Page 381 Here is reasonable (USA) electric wiring diagram http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf Roger
  2. Hi Doddel, Bad fuel is a serious possibility. First take all the plugs out. Spin the engine and make sure you have sparks whilst doing this. Charge the battery so that it gives the engine a fair chance. Drain the float chambers and top up with 97RON or better. Remove the air filters - possibly consider a squirt of 'Start You Bast%^&' this is desperation time. Heat the plugs with a hot air gun etc and refit. TRy to start with normal choke Where abouts are you in the UK. Perhaps a local club member could assist. Roger
  3. Hi Malbaby, if you reduce your picture size to apprx 100Kb then you will be able to get dozens of pics uploaded. I use MSPaint as it is on the computer and easy to use. Roger
  4. Hi Adrian, I would have thought the teeth are stripped on the gear wheel. The regulator can be replaced without removing the glass from the door. The new regulators use M8 screws instead of the 5/16UNF. Roger
  5. Hi Rod, if the spring has a round cross section then possibly piano wire will do the job. Have a look on ebay for piano wire - all sorts of gauges. Roger
  6. Hi Rog, haven't a clue about TR6 ignition but the Moss item 218959 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/switch-ignition-218959.html?assoc=131107 Looks very similar to what you are holding. However my USA wiring diagram shows the 4 pin plug but with only three wires going to it - no BROWN wire. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf Roger
  7. Hi Steve, have you sent the Mod's a PM asking them to sort it out. This was a simple housekeeping process - and then the site got improved. Roger
  8. Hi Geoff, welcome to the forum. Have you got an overdrive? Roger
  9. nice one Grommet. Roger
  10. Thanks Mike, It is on the bucket list. Roger
  11. Hi Tony, yes, have been to the NYMRY a number of times. A very neat and tidy concern. They always have a good selection of steam. Not been to the museum tho'. Must put that on the list for next time. Roger
  12. Hi Waldi, I'll check my two seals for depth. They have always appeared to be too deep. However over time they do appear to squish down a touch. Both my 4 & 4A fit well (now). When I fitted them I place a very heavy weight on the lid for a couple of days. This allows the base of the seal to spread out (I think). A PQI form may be needed. but!! (there is always a 'but'. A NOS unfitted seal would be needed to compare to. I would assume all the suppliers use the same source. Let me have a dig around and see what I find. Roger
  13. HI John, there are three types of bearing carrier material. There is steel - which I find good on my 4A Phosphour bronze (dark gold colour)as used on the side screen cars. These work well and many TR6 owners believe this is the one to use. Brass (bright gold colour) as used on many saloons. These do not work with the standard TR fork. The pins dig in, The saloon cars use slipper pads to spread the load. If you go for the Gold colour again ensure it is Phosphoyr bronze as this is harder than the Brass. Roger
  14. Hi Hawk, if you go to the Technical Forum, the General stuff is under the specific marques. Well hidden out of the way for whatever reason. Roger
  15. Do the gearless ratchets have a fine action (no teeth) Roger
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