Jump to content

RogerH

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    22,401
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

RogerH last won the day on December 17

RogerH had the most liked content!

1 Follower

About RogerH

  • Birthday 12/02/1949

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    West London

Recent Profile Visitors

5,839 profile views
  1. RogerH

    Tr6 drum brake question

    Hi Michael, welcome to the forum. Oh dear what have you been doing !! That is the end of a hydraulic pipe and probably should go into the slave cylinder. Have a look at the end of the pipe #10 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/brake-system/rear-brakes/brake-pipes-hoses-tr5-6.html You need these pipes connected very securely. Yours looks very rusty and icky. You may need some new pipes/connectors or possibly consider replacing the whole system. Roger
  2. RogerH

    Reeves metal finishing

    Hi Pete, are they already anodised? if so that will need removing. Not sure what the pro's use but Caustic soda will remove it (and your fingers) There is an anodising dye that will give a very good shine - 'Bright' anodising. How they get the surface very clean and brightish before hand I do not know. It must all be chemical based. Roger
  3. RogerH

    Trunnion and top ball joint grease nipples

    Hi Andy, You should not need to fit a GN to the trunnion as there is one in the Vertical link item #23 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/front-suspension/front-suspension-tr5-6.html If the top joint does not have a GN then it is sealed for life. You may find the rubber boots will not lat long enough to warrant fitting an GN. Soldering the base of the TRunnion is usual if you are going to use a heavy oil. If grease then it is not necessary. Roger
  4. RogerH

    TR4 in front

    ..defo not a 4 it has side lights LHD could it be a 250 as per Roy's post Roger
  5. RogerH

    Diff Pinion Oil seal/castellated nut torque

    Hi Andy, no point in breaking it. The amount of movement on the nut for any increase in torque will always be small once the slack are taken up. Keep an eye on it Roger
  6. RogerH

    Do you know what this piece of metal is?

    Hi Phil, that key may or may not be from the drive output axle shaft. It simply can't drop out as it is enclosed. However if it isn't in position the drive shaft may well still operate as they can be very tight - try taking one apart. The knocking noise could well be a broken diff mount pin attachment. Have a serious look at the offside front pin - especially where it is welded at the top. I may be easier to feel than see. Should feel typically smooth for a weld. Good luck Roger
  7. RogerH

    Diff Pinion Oil seal/castellated nut torque

    Hi Andy, in theory the tightness of the nut should not affect the pinion preload as that is sorted by the spacer tube and shims - but I would suggest that life is not that simple. on the earlier cars the Torque is lower at 80 to 100 lbs,ft. It needs some torque so why not go in in steps and see what it does to the preload. 40lbs,ft give the flange a turn, 60 etc etc if it was me I would stop at less than 80. See where the split pin hole aligns and stop there. Roger
  8. RogerH

    Do you know what this piece of metal is?

    Hi Phil, any keys in any position would only fall out IF the assembly was broken down for maintenance etc. Look at item 61 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/clutch-transmission-drivetrain/axles-differentials/rear-axle-tr5-6.html similar shape. BUT how would it escape. Possibly came out by previous owner and was sitting on the chassis frame. It looks a bit weathered. Not something taken out by accident. Roger PS - if you remove the drive shaft you may be able to look into the slot where it should live - or poke a wire in. !!!!
  9. RogerH

    Assistance please

    Hi Andy, welcome to the forum. It looks like somebody has been helping you by fitting non-standard colour wiring. Yellow is usually for the Overdrive. Purple for the horn Red for the dash lights Just to complicate it further you have two male spades unoccupied - choices, choices. Have look here for the wire colours - not TR5 but TR250. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr2506.pdf Looking at the bend on the yellow I would suggest it goes next to the purple wire. You could try it - the circuit is fused - you should have two speeds as normal. If it works then bingo otherwise plug into other male. Roger
  10. RogerH

    Indicators

    Hi Stan, not completely sure but I thought the TR2/3/4/4A had a fixed polarity. The TR6 and maybe TR5 had a polarity depending on direction of turn. Roger
  11. RogerH

    Engine Noise.

    Hi Mike/Phil, adjusting the tappets to the correct gap will not compensate for a worn lobe - sadly I'm an expert on this subject. I spent 2 years setting the gaps and yet the lobe did not grow any bigger Roger
  12. RogerH

    Which Camshaft?

    Hi Ian, although it is hard to find I understand that the standard cam is also 110' But with no lift or duration Roger
  13. RogerH

    what am I missing

    .............and rotor and coil Roger
  14. RogerH

    Engine Noise.

    Hi Pete, have you checked the tappets for gap and lift.. Could be one cam lobe wearing away. Roger.
  15. RogerH

    what am I missing

    As it runs well one moment and then bad the next it can't be anything that is fixed - Valve timing, etc. Check ALL the connection in the Dizzy especially the soldered tag on the flexible LT wire. Check all ignition connector joints. Have you got oil in the carb dash pots Roger
×

Important Information

By using this site, you agree to our Terms of Use.