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RogerH last won the day on August 10

RogerH had the most liked content!

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About RogerH

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    West London

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  1. Hi Tony, thanks for that. More info to work with. Roger
  2. I had my doubts about Bob's explanation a long while ago but when Bob explained it it all clicked. It is only possible because the adapter and wheel hub do have a some play. It the spline fit was perfect then it wouldn;t tighten - but then again it wouldn't undo. Roger
  3. RogerH

    Buying a TR7

    Have a look here https://www.tr-register.co.uk/tr-buyers-guides/triumph-tr7-tr7v8-tr8 Roger
  4. RogerH

    belt trouble

    you should not have said that !!!!!!! Roger
  5. Hi Marco, that is astonishing. I have never seen that done before. So the only good test is adding water and seeing the results Roger
  6. Hi Rob, as my gaffer use to say years ago - that is another string to my elbow. I'll give them all a try tomorrow. Roger
  7. Hi Bob, which shaft are you talking about. The three gear selector rods are contenders for the eternal leaky thing on a TR GB. t=There should be 'O' rings on each rod but they appear not to be too effective. I have tried 'Q;seals in this area. They are like 'O' rings but with a 4 leaf clover cross section. Some members have had success with these. Another member fitted Lip seals to the rods and it looked a fabulous mod. I broke into the rear cavity of the top cover and put tie wraps around the rods making any migrating oil drip off. Roger
  8. RogerH

    belt trouble

    Hi Chris, not too sure what the 6 looks like down there but it doesn't look right. has the engine moved forward etc etc. If all is as it should be then you will have to move the rack forwards. Not too difficult at home. When you fit the new belt install another belt virtually n place but tie-wrap it around the rack - this is often done with the wide belt TR2 -4A engines. Roger
  9. Hi Bob and Rob, thanks for your input. I suspect you are right about parasitic something or the other. Johnny250 doesn;t mention this with his design. I'm sure he used the original flasher unit.. But that shouldn't affect the parasitic situation. Perhaps a poor quality LED may help rather than a Hi-brightness one. Roger
  10. Hi Graham, have a look here http://www.vehicle-wiring-products.eu/section.php/219/1/relays-flasher-units They have similar pin numbering. Mine is a RFL5 Roger
  11. Hi Rob the buzzer (12v) is in parallel with the LED& resistor. The 12v come from the flasher warning light output. I'll try your idea. I'll also connect to the buzzer to the line that goes to the flasher switch. Roger
  12. Hi Folks, I have a Vehicle Wiring Products flasher relay (RFL5) I am also using one of the audio buzzer units that Johnny 250 was producing a while ago. The alarm works well but I have noticed that when the engine is running there is a faint glow from the alarm LED I have changed the dropper resistor from 6K8 to 27K ohms but the faint glow still glows faintly There is no faint glow when the ignition is on but no revs. The flasher unit definitely clicks when operating but is desctibed as 'electronic'. So what could be causing the faint glow !!!!!! Roger
  13. I have the Moss tensioner in mine and doing well 40,000+ miles. Jeff at Moss was concerned that people are using the cheap chain with sharp edges that cuts into the tensioner. Roger
  14. I managed the first minute and then I thought Tit !! Roger
  15. The rubber breaking up in the system doesn't really explain the crud in the master cylinder. This crud could simply be Aluminium being rubbed off the piston tube when pressing the pedal. The clutch suffers badly from this. However your jam jar does look like you have a rubber pipe issue. Roger
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