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About RogerH

  • Birthday 12/02/1949

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    West London

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  1. Tighten it down with a plain nut. This will anchor the tapers together. The replace this nut with the Nylok. oger
  2. Whatever floats your boat. Had I thought of a piece of wood at the time I may well have gone that way. Roger
  3. Hi Folks, I'm resurrecting this thread as it is doing a turn on another club forum and a thought came to me. The thread form is 5/8" diameter x 13tpi - this can be measured quite accurately. It obviously exists but is a special. The designer could have used half a dozen standard threads to work perfectly. Could he have use 13tpi because nobody else did and it may help to protect his patent. Curious Roger
  4. Hi BD, PM sent - look for the RED envelope in top right hand corner of the screen Roger
  5. Hi BD, the gear wheel is specific to the car - if it has a 150' then that is what it needs. A small degree will give a smaller sweep Buying a scrap motor should solve the situation - but make sure that the gear IS inside. The 14W motor is used everywhere and is a good price - NEW. https://www.s-v-c.co.uk/category/wiper-systems-and-part/ The 14W is two speed But you do need the correct switch and possibly a small interface loom - but they are very good once up and running. Where abouts are you with your gear wheel.. I'm in Hayes near Heathrow Roge
  6. Hi BD, Ouch!!! that is broken. Assuming you can't get a replacement then consider repairing what you have. Have you got access to a lathe etc?? The post can be turned up. Leave a tail on the end to go through the gear Cut the existing post off and make the surface flush. Drill a hole to accept the new post tail. The new post needs to be attached firmly - not sure what it underneath - maybe a touch of weld. Easy peasy Roger
  7. Indeed, if you can get a grit blaster in there then do it. Roger
  8. I would have thought that a quality fan such as a Spal is top notch and will not fail willy nilly Roger
  9. It could be Aluminium Oxide - they do corrode. I got mine processed in Alocrom 1200 to kill/seal the corrosion - used extensively in aerospace - google to see if there is anywhere near you to do this. https://www.misterwhat.co.uk/company/1864824-west-middlesex-surface-treatments-ltd-uxbridge Or give it a serious coating of Dinitrol 3125W to sow things down. Roger
  10. Hi BD, there are no new gear wheels available. Keep an eye on Ebay. As Pete states @AlanT on here is the man to contact. It is possible to reposition the spigot on any of the gearwheels to give an 150' effect (move the spigot in or out on the radius to get the correct sweep.) What have you actually done to the shaft to make it useless? Photo please Have you considered fitting a Lucas 14W motor - these actually work. Roger
  11. Hi Graham, have a look here at the Moss temp switches Temp Switch I would go for 88 or 92 You need a simple ON/OFF relay between the Temp switch and the coil of the relay - this way the temp switch is only switching 150mA https://www.vehiclewiringproducts.co.uk/c-219-relays-flasher-units/p-642-12v-4-blade-type-b The relay supplies ALL the power to the fan up to 20Amps. Roger PS Rob beat me to it.
  12. Hi Adrian I would have thought that the two halves would be the same thickness. But then again with one being thicker it should have no effect on the seal. Can you get a feeler gauge under the clam shell. I assume the attachment screws are tight and yu did clean the area before fitment. Roger
  13. Hi Folks, Yesterday I finished off the hinges (4 off) The first to be assembled - The over size new pin would not fit in the old hinge pivot hole (5/16" diameter). After making a threaded hole for the grease nipple I ran n 8mm drill through the hinge pivot hole - Lo and behold the pin fitted. So be careful as an 8mm drill will over size by 3 or 4 thou. Any who the fit was very good. With no wobble off the two hinges plates. I tried the same on the second hinge and the pin would not fit - the pin was bigger. So I ran a 8.1mm drill through - disaster. This gave a hole
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