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qkingston

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About qkingston

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  • Location
    Helensburgh, Argyll & Bute
  • Cars Owned:
    GT6 x 3, Herald, Dolomite, Stag, Cobra, Jaguar XK

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  1. Thanks Gents, very helpful. I looked at a couple of cars at TRBitz (thank you), specicifically at where the pipe goes at the rear of the propshaft tunnel. The metal clip welded to the upper NS of the tunnel routes the fuel pipe up and then over the diff, question is, does it then go under the rear diff mounting bridge or over it then a sharp up-turn into the fuel tank. By measurement, I reckon the pipe access hole through the body immediately under the tank is just aft of the rear bridge (but I stand to be corrected on this). The Automec fuel pipe kit is a bit of a rip-off as they effectively give you double the amount of pipe you need so that you can choose whether to run one complete length front to back (with a short section to the pump) or have 3 sections joined by rubber pipe joiners, why not just ask which you want and reduce the charge accordingly? David
  2. Thanks Roger, I think probably it would, it's the rear part I'm trying to puzzle out. It's one of the photos I didn't take when I dismantled the car!!! Grr
  3. Purchased the Automec fuel feed kit and trying to work out how to compare with the old pipes I took off, and it doesn't really seem to match, anyone got any good photos of the pipe runs? Also is there some sort of clip on/near the diff where the pipe comes down from the tank and bends through the chassis legs? Appreciated David
  4. So I've fitted all the brake lines on the rolling chassis and I would quite like to test the system before I put the body on; new brake lines, piston seals etc so chance of a system leak is possible. Has anyone done this before putting the body on, so obviously no master cylinder/brake pedal etc. Has anyone devised a tool which can pump in brake fluid then lock in the pressure to do a drop test? Much appreciated David
  5. Thanks chaps, fitted successfully; I ended up putting the bolts through the TA bushes from outside in, I've seen comments that inside out is easier to dismantle, but I found that the end of the bolt on the inner bracket was fouling the chassis leg (just), so I went for the other way round. Also fabricated a couple of plates to put before the nuts on the TA brackets at the back of the chassis cross member to spread the load and hopefully prevent any pull through of the bolts Rgds David
  6. Hi Lee, what model of Landrover mount did you get? (part No?) decent quality? VMT David
  7. Grateful for any top tips from you clever people; trying to refit the trailing arm brackets now that the superpro bushes are in the TA, but I cannot get the bracket to fit neatly over the bush, it just wants to slide about and skin my knuckles in the process Regards David
  8. Thanks Stuart, full CTM strenghtening kit fitted Rgds David
  9. Thanks all, that's useful. I just measured the pin and bush, the pin o/d is 14mm, the polybush i/d is 16.5mm, quite a difference no? Photos below (I know the cone is upside down, just for illustration) David
  10. Thanks Chris, where did you source your rubber ones from? I'm aware there's a lot of rubbish "rubber" components out there Rgds David
  11. Thanks Dave, it's the front and rear mounts, my diff is the other type that uses the cones front and back, no steel sleeve. I was kinda hoping that the tightening up would sort the issue, but didn't want to do that until I've checked with you chaps who've done this before. The older rubber mounts I removed (original I guess), were a tighter fit on the pins Thanks David
  12. Yes I had considered rubber for the diff mount for the reasons stated, but the blue polybushes are fairly soft and pliable, just didn't think they would be so loose on the pins. I'm waiting to see what Rimmers say when they are open tomorrow
  13. I was about to get the diff re-mounted on new (blue) polybush mounts from Rimmer's. The cones seem very loose on the diff pins, concerned the diff would be able to move excessively; I was expecting them to be a neat fit, is this correct?
  14. I would agree with that my 1965 4a lock stops are eccentric, but new ones supplied seem to be all centre drilled David
  15. So I've seen pictures of training arm bracket bolts pulling through the chassis leg, is it worth putting an extra plate at the back of the chassis leg to spread the load at all? Have people done this? Many thanks David
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