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Tim T

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About Tim T

  • Birthday 11/06/1955

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  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    Current 1959 TR3A and restoration of 1968 TR5 underway.
    Previous 1968 TR5. Now residing in Weston super Mare.
    1970 Triumph Vitesse Mk2 convertible.

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  1. Thinking ahead to when I start to fit out the interior of my TR5 project I am going to need a set of carpets. All the original interior that came out of the car is in excellent reuseable condition with the exception of the carpets which provided a ready source of food for many carpet moths over many years! I am thinking that a new set of carpets may not look compatible with the worn vinyls, so bit of a bit ask but I don't suppose anybody has a used set of Shadow Blue carpets in good condition. I won't hold my breath! Many thanks, Tim
  2. Understood Stuart. Many thanks, Tim
  3. Many thanks everybody. Much appreciated as usual. Tim
  4. Thanks for the reply Mick. My bewilderment is caused by the fact that I have not changed the front arms from the deck or added the 'surplus' studs, so it somehow worked before I took it all apart. Anyway I will remove the surplus studs. Cheers Tim
  5. I have just had the rear frame for the surrey top soda blasted and having primed it thought that I would remind myself of how it attaches to the rear deck. However, when I removed the frame I did not take any photos as I thought that it would be obvious how it goes back. Wrong!! In the photos attached you can see 3 studs, these are mirrored on the other side and then there is a central one in the middle of the deck making 7 in all, as in the Moss catalogue. However there does not appear to be the correct number of holes in the deck to receive the studs.There are holes for the 5 across the rear deck but not the next 2. Hope that makes sense. What obvious point am I missing please? Many thanks, Tim
  6. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    Many thanks both. I will try to clean up what has come out but the PO had under sealed the underside of the bonnet so the edges of the felt are rock solid and now only about 8mm thick. If not reusable I was thinking about some 12mm thick black closed cell neoprene sponge? Cheers, Tim
  7. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    I have started to strip the bonnet back to bare metal and need to remove the 'felt' stuff under the stiffening rails on the underside of the bonnet. I assume that it just pulls out, but before removing it I wanted to source some replacements. I couldn't find any reference to it in the Moss catalogue, so could some kind person point me in the right direction please? Also when refitting the new stuff is it glued in or just held by compression. Any other tips on fitting would be appreciated. Many thanks Tim
  8. Many thanks for the link and taking the time and trouble to find it Ian. Thanks Tim
  9. One final image of the end of the crankshaft now that I have got it out. Does anybody have a photo of what it should look like please? Thanks, Tim
  10. Struggling with extracting the crankshaft bolt now so when I have the crank out will know more. Will remain optimistic!! Thanks, Tim
  11. Thanks for replies. I have this morning dug a little deeper and found the attached horrors. I am guessing that the crank is going to be well past it and possible not acceptable as a exchange - would that be correct? Thanks, Tim
  12. I have just started to strip down the engine block on the 5, which has not run for 40 years now. everything came apart easily with no seized fixings. However, I did find a failed thrust washer floating around. I can currently move the crank by hand by about 80 thou !!!!! Would this suggest that some serious damage has been done or will it be a case of fitting new washers albeit several of them? I am intending the replace all bearings, valves, springs, followers etc, and do a full rebuild obviously. There was also one bent push rod. All valves, pistons and rings again appear to be in tact. So, my question is, could there be any irreparable damage to the crank itself or anything else that a competent machine shop could not put right? Many thanks, Tim
  13. Many thanks all! I look forward to the answers to the next question whatever that may be!! Tim
  14. I appreciate that all measurements will vary at every stage of the build and that the only really relevant measurement is the final set up. Am I correct in thinking that if the car is set up at 0 degrees at the front with no weight on it the camber will become more negative as weight increases? Then add shims to get the final correct setting. Is there a maximum number of shims that should be added before suspecting something is not right? Tim
  15. This may be a silly question but I will ask it all the same! Obviously when doing the final set up on the suspension it will be done with the car fully loaded - about 12 months away - but when doing everything up loosely at the early build stage with a bare chassis ie. no engine/gearbox/diff etc is there a guide as to what the camber should be? Many thanks, Tim
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