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Tim T

TR Register Members
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    358
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About Tim T

  • Birthday 11/06/1955

Profile Information

  • Location
    Dorset
  • Cars Owned:
    Current 1959 TR3A and restoration of 1968 TR5 underway.
    Previous 1968 TR5. Now residing in Weston super Mare.
    1970 Triumph Vitesse Mk2 convertible.

Recent Profile Visitors

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  1. No, used in one piece. I just put contact adhesive in the bottom of the channel, and carefully pushed the felt into place using a piece of 3mm thick plastic. The side pieces just stayed where they were and tend to be held securely by the window glass when it goes in place. No trimming was needed. Worked for me! Tim
  2. Tim T

    Model makers

    If you are going to have one made, an alternative method to using 5 pieces of perspex is to use just 3, one piece for the 2 large sides and the top with a radiused fold at the top of each side to create a tunnel. 2 end pieces can then be inserted and glued. Much stronger that the 5 piece option. Tim
  3. Well I just used the 1" x 1/8 plain black felt from Woolies as recommended by others and it worked fine. Tim
  4. Tim T

    Model makers

    When working we used Tensol cement. There are 2 types, one is quite thick and gap fills but difficult to get perfect. The other one is almost like water and flows with capillary action. Mask off around the joints first. Mitred joints will also give you a larger contact area. I can thoroughly recommend this company, used them for 35 years, never let me down https://www.lyndhurstplasticfabrication.com/ Contact is Peter Lightfoot. Cheers, Tim
  5. Same car as used in Eastenders a few weeks ago. Not that I watch it, of course. Tim
  6. ... having a rest from throttle linkage at the moment and thought that I would sort out the original gearbox tunnel cover on the 5. The cover is in pretty good condition but has a couple of weak points which I thought that I would strengthen with some fibreglass patches on the interior of the car side. However the underside has got a fair amount of underseal 'overspray' on it. I can remove the thick bits and make it look flatish and tidy but I want to paint something black back in there. I cannot remove all traces of the underseal as the base surface is textured and still holds underseal so I
  7. Greg, The lid should, I believe, have a pretty heavy seal to the front, a neoprene rubber seal on the rear, and 2 cantrail seals that sit in the channels above each window. You can see these channels in my first pic. However I am an apprentice, Stuart is the master. Tim
  8. Greg, This pic is the front n/s corner. . ...and this is the remains of the seal across the rear of the lid. Hope this helps. Tim
  9. WOW! I don't suppose I could borrow you to come down and fit it all as well! That is all amazingly thoughtful of you and will be incredibly helpful for me. Very many thanks and I look forward to receiving the bits in the next few days. All the best, Tim
  10. Martin, Have sent you a PM. Cheers, Tim
  11. Great minds obviously think alike. Trying to be as boringly original as possible within reason! Tim
  12. ... best that I can find. Tim
  13. This is what was on the rear of my steel lid and has now been replaced with very similar profile. front edge is a substantial rubber seal. will see if I have any images of that. Hope it helps. Tim
  14. I agree with Andy. Having watched numerous 'Can't pay... we'll take it away' episodes about high Court bailiffs, the only proof of ownership acceptable to them is an invoice or bill of sale. the V5 does not seem to be of much value at all. How you would prove ownership of a gift is perhaps tricky! Tim
  15. Surely the V5 is purely proof of the registered keeper and are never proof of ownership. Tim
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