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Tim T

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About Tim T

  • Birthday 11/06/1955

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  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    Current 1959 TR3A and restoration of 1968 TR5 underway.
    Previous 1968 TR5. Now residing in Weston super Mare.
    1970 Triumph Vitesse Mk2 convertible.

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  1. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    Many thanks both. I will try to clean up what has come out but the PO had under sealed the underside of the bonnet so the edges of the felt are rock solid and now only about 8mm thick. If not reusable I was thinking about some 12mm thick black closed cell neoprene sponge? Cheers, Tim
  2. Tim T

    TR5 bonnet

    I have started to strip the bonnet back to bare metal and need to remove the 'felt' stuff under the stiffening rails on the underside of the bonnet. I assume that it just pulls out, but before removing it I wanted to source some replacements. I couldn't find any reference to it in the Moss catalogue, so could some kind person point me in the right direction please? Also when refitting the new stuff is it glued in or just held by compression. Any other tips on fitting would be appreciated. Many thanks Tim
  3. Tim T

    Thrust washers

    Many thanks for the link and taking the time and trouble to find it Ian. Thanks Tim
  4. Tim T

    Thrust washers

    One final image of the end of the crankshaft now that I have got it out. Does anybody have a photo of what it should look like please? Thanks, Tim
  5. Tim T

    Thrust washers

    Struggling with extracting the crankshaft bolt now so when I have the crank out will know more. Will remain optimistic!! Thanks, Tim
  6. Tim T

    Thrust washers

    Thanks for replies. I have this morning dug a little deeper and found the attached horrors. I am guessing that the crank is going to be well past it and possible not acceptable as a exchange - would that be correct? Thanks, Tim
  7. I have just started to strip down the engine block on the 5, which has not run for 40 years now. everything came apart easily with no seized fixings. However, I did find a failed thrust washer floating around. I can currently move the crank by hand by about 80 thou !!!!! Would this suggest that some serious damage has been done or will it be a case of fitting new washers albeit several of them? I am intending the replace all bearings, valves, springs, followers etc, and do a full rebuild obviously. There was also one bent push rod. All valves, pistons and rings again appear to be in tact. So, my question is, could there be any irreparable damage to the crank itself or anything else that a competent machine shop could not put right? Many thanks, Tim
  8. Tim T

    Setting camber

    Many thanks all! I look forward to the answers to the next question whatever that may be!! Tim
  9. Tim T

    Setting camber

    I appreciate that all measurements will vary at every stage of the build and that the only really relevant measurement is the final set up. Am I correct in thinking that if the car is set up at 0 degrees at the front with no weight on it the camber will become more negative as weight increases? Then add shims to get the final correct setting. Is there a maximum number of shims that should be added before suspecting something is not right? Tim
  10. This may be a silly question but I will ask it all the same! Obviously when doing the final set up on the suspension it will be done with the car fully loaded - about 12 months away - but when doing everything up loosely at the early build stage with a bare chassis ie. no engine/gearbox/diff etc is there a guide as to what the camber should be? Many thanks, Tim
  11. Moving forward with this issue and my confidence is waning! The arm was incorrectly fitted and has now been rectified. When I got it back I stripped the basic paint job ready to apply something more durable. At this point I noticed that one unit was leaking and the other all six screws on the top were spinning with the vibrations while stripping the paint. The provision of spring washers on both units was random! I spoke with the contractor concerned and he apologised for the loose screws and explained that the washer provision was always a bit random even from the original manufacturer. Anyway, I sorted the leak and fitted spring washers throughout. Next painted the units and fitted to the chassis. Tried to 'work' the units and found that every now and then they would bind up and would not move to their full extensions. With some perseverence they would move, but very hard work. I returned the units to contractor who said that they were fine and that I should fit them to the car and after 50 or so miles on the road they would work themselves in. Problem here is that the car is about 12 months from being on the road. Should I fit the units and build the rear suspension up, put an internal spring compressor on the trailing arm and observe what happens or is the 50 miles on the road the correct thing to do. I feel that I should respect the advice of the expert but my confidence is a little dented at present! Any views, similar experiences etc would be very welcome! Many thanks, Tim
  12. Thanks for that. Yes they are twice the height of those on the 3. Tim
  13. Many thanks Stuart. Why is nothing staightforward?! Are you saying that I can try these and use them if they give me the required setting? Tim
  14. I have attached a couple of steering lock images.The left one from TR Shop and the other from Moss. I thought it interesting that the Moss one has a bolt which is far too long - I know that it can be cut down, but...! Point of the images though is should the hole be more off centre than those shown. They are about 0.1mm off centre. Many thanks, Tim
  15. Rich, Try searching "rollover jigs". I placed some images based on scaffold poles here. Failing that send me a pm and I will send you some images. I have just dismantled my jig and would be happy to discuss with you especially as I am about 8 miles away from you in Broadmayne, Dorchester. Cheers, Tim
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