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  • Location
    South Germany - Lake of Constance
  • Cars Owned:
    '63 Beetle, '68 Land Rover Series 2, '55 Triumph TR 2

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  1. Hi All, Just met a TR owner the other weekend who, was enthusiastically reporting about the stabilizer kit which he as attached to his TR3A. Significantly improves road performance of the car, he reported.. My TR is optical quite period but has enjoyed some beneficial modifications already (TR4A engine, steering, Kenlowe...).so I am always open to implement improving (but more or less invisible) features. Who has experience with the kit? Easy to install? Any experience, input and advise welcome... Cheers Oliver
  2. Hi All, Although replaced by the preowner to a new one, I do have a leakage on my radiator (filler neck connection to top body). Questions 1: is it possible to exchange the radiator without taking the front mask off ? I do have an electrical radiator and no fan. The radiator itself may come out but I am not sure if there will be any conflict with the neck ? Question 2: I may have the radiator ovehauled/repaired or opt for an exchange to a aluminum version. Any argument against such aluminum replacement (except originality) ? Advise welcome Cheers Oliver
  3. ...and here are some more news and recent lessons learned to share: The Ammeter has a small adustment screw on the back with which the needle friction can be adjusted. Playing with this adjustment finally resolved my issue and the gage shows correct readings, now.
  4. Final finding: It is the Ammeter! I took it out and did the same procedure again. It would jump to -30 when turning ignition and light on but when ticking with teh finger it, it jump back to a normal value. If I would not tick it but start the engine, it would as well be "pulled up" to the normal +15 Ampds steady state value. On the positive side, I took the input for serious as I did have some electrical issues (and may still have). A short cut however luckily can be excluded.... Will get an exchange Ammeter and hopefully will rectify this issue. Thanks for everyones
  5. All right, it seems to bee good to spend the night in bed (instead of the garage), read the posts in the moring first before planing further actions :-) So, I will follow Robs procedure and disconnect the A3 whites - see what happens and then check the routing of the whites from the fuse to the switch and coil.... (qualified sparkys are difficult to find over here :-(
  6. So could I connect the Multimeter with Amps reading between the brown an brown/white instead of the Ampmeter ? And if so, should I read the the same value I read on the TR Ampmeter then ? I am just trying to replace the Ampmeter to confirm the reading and potential short cut yous suspect.... Important information: When disconnecting the Amp meter after getting it to the -30 in connected condition, it remains at this value. It needs slight shaking to get it back to the 0....
  7. Hi Bob, just measured Amps between the brown and ground with my Multimeter - so there is no Amps reading. I would conclude it must be a Ampmeter defect ? (but I am just a poor MECHANICAL engineer and hate this electrical stuff :-)
  8. Hi Rob, Thanks for the swift feedback. Would you 100% exclude a defect of the gauge ? I think I will use my workshop meter to confirm the -30 reading ? Why taking teh white wires from the A3 ? The brown rouings all run to the A1 ? Cheers Oliver
  9. Hi All, Currently its my Ampmeter playing games with me: When turning on the ignition, it runs to “-30” and I need to shake it with ignition off to get it back to “0”. Does it matter which terminal takes brown and which brown/white ? Do I need ground ? I do have stabile 12V from the batterie on teh brown when turning the ignition on... Advise welcome Cheers Oliver
  10. Thanks Rob, have already planned to check the clutch adjustment tomorrow. I can say that it only is present in warmed up condition and for reverse only….
  11. Hi All, I do experience an annoying problem with my reverse gear (especially in warmed up condition). All gears can be engaged without problem just the reverse. Could it still be an clutch adjustment issue or something eles ? Advise appreciated. Cheers Oliver
  12. Hi David, Yes indeed. Although a good prospective on the road scene, the car will not be present in the recording at all .Appreciated presentation of any alternative solution. cheers Oliver
  13. …it took me quite a while to identify the purpose of the small mouth front bracket.
  14. Peter, does this apply with the wire wheel adaptor as well. ? The Haynes is differentiating - for whatever reason- between standard and wire wheel. For wire wheels only smooth torque is required (?) Cheers Oliver
  15. Another question that came to my mind: Does the spline nut require a defined torque? It was tightened quite soft when disassembled …
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