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  • Location
    South Germany - Lake of Constance
  • Cars Owned:
    '63 Beetle, '68 Land Rover Series 2, '55 Triumph TR 2

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  1. Hello All, I have made a mistake and have bought a TR book. It says, that the crank extension shaft for the ventilator should remain when fitting a Kenlow and removing the fan as the shaft extension has the function of a balance weight. Is this correct? Advise welcome…. Cheers Oliver
  2. Hello All, Having my oil sump off, I think about exchanging it to a aluminum one. I like the seal surface compared with the original one especially when used with paper seal. Further advantages like improved cooling ... It has been reported that leakages may be an issue due to porosity. Difficult to belief as standard on modern cars... Any input and experience appreciated. Cheers Oliver www.limora.com/de/oelwanne-115011.html
  3. Hi All, Thanks again. I think (despite the fact, that I have just completed an oil change) I will take the pan off and investigate. Ref Oil pan seal: Are there different quality standards available or just the straight forward cork one? Additional sealing compound recommended ? Regards Oliver
  4. .. the leakage would then be through the cluth housing bottum hole (?)
  5. Hi Roger, a good post reply always starts with the management of expectation, doesn't it ... Thanks for the input! Just for clarification: with "scroll seal" you mean the split rear crankshaft seal, corerect ? Cheers Oliver
  6. Hello All, I do have oil leaking in the front and aft area of the oil pan. For the front leak, I am quite confident, that the leak is around the two T-seals to the block. For the back area, I am still investigating. Although it is just a few drops, I am keen on geeting it dry. A conversion to the stiffer aluminum pan with a new seal would be one thought I have in mind (as cooling will be improved as well). Can the front-T seals be exchanged when taking off the pan as well ? Any input on futher commonly known leak spots on the TRs ? Input welcome! Cheers Oliver
  7. This is the one I would get: https://www.limora.com/de/oelfilteradapter-115507.html Is this still the model you have experienced the problem ?
  8. Hi Bob, This is scaring.. I think I will just stick to the old and original one and not go for any risk. Thanks for sharing this with me! Regards Oliver
  9. Hi All, Oil exchanged and ready for the winter nap (the TR, not me) This is the opportunity to convert to a spin on oil filter. Can this be recommended ? Any experience, input appreciated before pressing the order button.... Thanks Oliver
  10. Hi All, Just met a TR owner the other weekend who, was enthusiastically reporting about the stabilizer kit which he as attached to his TR3A. Significantly improves road performance of the car, he reported.. My TR is optical quite period but has enjoyed some beneficial modifications already (TR4A engine, steering, Kenlowe...).so I am always open to implement improving (but more or less invisible) features. Who has experience with the kit? Easy to install? Any experience, input and advise welcome... Cheers Oliver
  11. Hi All, Although replaced by the preowner to a new one, I do have a leakage on my radiator (filler neck connection to top body). Questions 1: is it possible to exchange the radiator without taking the front mask off ? I do have an electrical radiator and no fan. The radiator itself may come out but I am not sure if there will be any conflict with the neck ? Question 2: I may have the radiator ovehauled/repaired or opt for an exchange to a aluminum version. Any argument against such aluminum replacement (except originality) ? Advise welcome Cheers Oliver
  12. ...and here are some more news and recent lessons learned to share: The Ammeter has a small adustment screw on the back with which the needle friction can be adjusted. Playing with this adjustment finally resolved my issue and the gage shows correct readings, now.
  13. Final finding: It is the Ammeter! I took it out and did the same procedure again. It would jump to -30 when turning ignition and light on but when ticking with teh finger it, it jump back to a normal value. If I would not tick it but start the engine, it would as well be "pulled up" to the normal +15 Ampds steady state value. On the positive side, I took the input for serious as I did have some electrical issues (and may still have). A short cut however luckily can be excluded.... Will get an exchange Ammeter and hopefully will rectify this issue. Thanks for everyones
  14. All right, it seems to bee good to spend the night in bed (instead of the garage), read the posts in the moring first before planing further actions :-) So, I will follow Robs procedure and disconnect the A3 whites - see what happens and then check the routing of the whites from the fuse to the switch and coil.... (qualified sparkys are difficult to find over here :-(
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