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Moliver

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  • Location
    South Germany - Lake of Constance
  • Cars Owned:
    '63 Beetle, '68 Land Rover Series 2, '55 Triumph TR 2

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  1. @Drewmotty: Thanks, this input will help. Will try immediately
  2. This is the answer I have been afraid of ... If I did replace, I most likely would go for a canvas type. Still shy of the investment especially as being used not too often... nevertheless, input on the rod positions would be appreciated
  3. Hi there, I have just fitted the org fuel tap to my TR which was missing as I wanted to improve the filter glass removal process. With the tank just filled with one gallon, I do have a slight leaking on the top of the tap. I will exchange the cork seal in the next step but am wondering if it is really possible to get this tap type tight at all...? Any recommendations or alternative tap recommendations? Input welcome! Cheers Oliver
  4. Hi there, I am trying to assemble my hood rods and vinyl hood (most likely the still the original vinyl hood). With the rods positioned to meet the hood shape, I cannot reach the window with the hood (2 inch gap). I am wondering, if this is due to a shrunk hood (and may retry at warmer cond) or there is need to correct the rod positions. Can anybody advice on the correct position (e.g middle rod in full upright pos?) and experience with shrink of vinyl hoods? Thanks Oliver
  5. Hi There, can anybody advise the correct color code for the TR 2 brake drums? Mine were silver grey and I have repainted them with a light silver grey 2k brake drum paint. Behind the wire wheels, this just does not look nice as the color is different to the wheel color code. ( black would be more appropriate as the drums would „hide“) Input welcome.... Cheers Oliver
  6. Hi there, I do have a TR2 but with a TR 4 A engine fitted. Is there any difference in valve clearance between the TR 2 and 4A head? Input appreciated. Cheers Oliver
  7. Hi There, I think about dedicating some time to the mod and improvement of my electrical system over wintertime. One of the thoughts is either 1) overhauling my generator or 2) exchanging it to a modern alternator. 1) can the regulator be overhauled as well. Are there modern exchange parts available with the housing original? 2) what needs to be modified? (Pully, belt, regulator, harness...? Your input and recommendation welcome! Cheers Oliver
  8. Thanks for the input. Good to know. that the orignal was aluminum. It is just that I have expected a part which can be upholstered and installed with minor adjustments to make. So "junk" in my understan ing does not mean, that I have a problem with aluminum but the fact, that I need to do major rework including cutting.... The side cappings are fiber class and they just fit perfect. If there was a fitting fiber class alternative for the rear capping, I would prefer it to a aluminum piece of jun.. ÄÄhh originality... Cheers Oliver
  9. Hi There, my cockpit rear pannel/capping was missing and I have ordered replacement for upholstery and installation. (the middle capping at the rear of the cockpit) The part provided was aluminum and of very poor quality. It would require major rework, cut and bending and is not more than (expensive) raw material for this job. All my other cappings are fibre class and fit very well. Can anybody recommend a parts source for a decent quality fibre class part ? All sources known to me do only offer the aluminum junk... Input welcome Cheers Oliver
  10. Hi all, I have further investigated. 0) Basic Situation: Gauge connected to Voltage Regulator, Earth and Sender terminal:--> With ignition on it jumps to "Full" after 30 sec it jumps up and down from empty to full . 1) Sender unit disconnected and Batterie direct to the gauge battery terminal (without VR) - Gauge reads full - Then Earth to the Sender Terminal - gauge reads empty. --> I read that the gauge itself should be all right (see attached doc) 2) Now, Sender unit re-connected, batterie still directly connecetd without VR (Bobs proposal/ TR2 wiring spec):
  11. Yes, your PL700 Version ans supply obviousely different to mine...
  12. There are indeed two different PL700 types on the market - however no difference in Price (LHD Versions) https://www.limora.com/de/catalogsearch/result/?q=PL700 The cheap looking versíon seems to have no Logo at all... The Valeo+LED beam looks impressive (propably only blind squirrels in this area now? :-)
  13. As maybe spotted on the earlier picture, I have followed Bobs recommendation and have exchanged the front indicators as well to the White glass lense (had orange plastic caps) I have decided to keep the standard bulbs, and have the park lights integrated into the Tripods now. Nevertheless, I have installed the twin bulbs and have connected both to the indicator. Means I now have a 21+5W indicator bulb. Not a big difference but stilll a small improvement...
  14. Hi All, As promised, the beam pictures of my PL700s (not fine adjusted yet). Looks quite all right to me ? Community thoughts welcome - maybe I can recover the reputation of the ole PL700 ? (Just for the beauty of the PLs, I would rather tape a pair of Maglights on the Fenders than going back to the Boschs Cheers Oliver
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