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rcreweread

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About rcreweread

Profile Information

  • Location
    Colchester
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

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  1. Paul - original dashboards were in American Walnut - what causes confusion is that some suppliers refer to this veneer as Teak which it isn't - this info was supplied to me by Classical Dash Hope this helps Cheers Rich
  2. My solution was to buy an earth lead from a modern motor factors ( they do lots of sizes and lengths) and attach it to the body mounting point next to the battery, in addition to the battery earth lead, using star washers between the two, and then attach the other end to a nearby bolt/nut on the gearbox bellhousing - has worked fine for many years and is hardly noticeable, I still kept the earth lead from the chassis turret to the block by the timing chain cover. Simple and cheap as chips! Cheers Rich
  3. Richard - I know this is not what you want to hear, but my offer of a brand new alloy tank for £250 still stands Off to duck! Cheers Rich
  4. Graham It would appear the "Edit" button only comes up under the three dots if it's your post which makes sense cheers Rich
  5. Andy - there's a similar query to yours in the General TR Technical Forum about a TR5 brake master cylinders which you may find helpful to look at. If there are no markings on your unit, it sounds like it may be a repro unit to start with - do you have any idea how long it's been on the car? Past Parts are just down the road from you in Bury St Edmunds and restore OE units but I'm not sure if they can/will restore repro units - best to ask them if you are interested. If you don't want to risk stripping your paint with future leaks, then you need to use Silicone brake fluid, but
  6. Jon - as I understand it, Past Parts ream out the bore and fit a stainless steel liner, bead blast the outside and rebuild with known quality seals and new parts as necessary, so a refurbed unit should be as good if not better than an original new unit. Cost is obviously more than your TRW repro but how much hassle have you already had and the historic evidence of the longevity of these repros is not that encouraging, but ultimately the choice is yours. If the bore is corroded, don't throw it away. just put it on here and someone will snap it up! Cheers Rich
  7. Jon - Have you still got the original master cylinder? If so, send it to these guys who will recondition it - http://www.pastparts.co.uk/index.php?route=information/contact No connection other than a satisfied customer Cheers Rich
  8. Roy - it fits on the end of the round bit of the gearbox rear extension or overdrive casing, and is clamped to it with a nut and bolt on the preformed part of the bracket on the side which is at 3.00 oclock ( or 9.00 oclock if other way round) with the central mounting bolt/nut pointing downwards - you can just about get it on or off by opening up the clamp a long way but a bit of a fiddle in situ. By the way, I sent you a PM a few days ago which I see you haven't yet read Cheers Rich
  9. Kevin - has your car got overdrive ? if it left the factory with one, this is signified on the Vin number with an "O" at the end of the number. This is often misread as a zero and added to the serial number. I wouldn't mind betting your vin number is CP52174 followed by a space and then an "O" , in which case I think your engine number is within the normal range of a matching numbers car - the way to double check is to get a Heritage Certificate which will confirm all the details for you - these are available from https://www.britishmotormuseum.co.uk/archive/heritage-certificates Ho
  10. rcreweread

    Fuel pump

    I've been running a Dave Davies refurbished original AC pump in my TR4 since 2012 with no issues so far, touch wood - I tend to use Shell Optimax fuel, but not exclusively Cheers Rich
  11. Eli - watch out - if her waters break in the car, you won't be able to sell it! Mind you, maybe that's a plan Good luck Cheers Rich
  12. Brian - what about this from a forumite ( I think) on ebay: cheaper than £60 and at £50 , that seems to be the lower end of the going rate https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Triumph-TR3-TR4-Crankcase-Breather-Draft-Tube-and-Bracket/143713985336?hash=item2176056338:g:f~wAAOSwKyxfTm2V Cheers Rich
  13. Nikos - whilst I can readily supply you with a fully rebuilt and guaranteed 3.45 diff for your TR6 ( see my ad in Classifieds), on an outright basis if necessary, the primary issue for me is of warranty in the unfortunate event of something going wrong because it would instantly make the whole deal unviable. There are also potential risks, not to mention costs, associated with transport to Greece. As I supply these as an extension to my hobby of restoring TRs and it's not a business, it makes it very difficult to justify to myself taking the risks involved - professional suppliers will no
  14. Try Steve Simpson - I know hes moved quite a few TRs on his flat bed - not sure if he has a covered transporter as well = his contact number is Oh, seven, seven, five, nine followed by nine, four, four, five , five eight - I think he is based in the south East cheers Rich
  15. Alan I also clocked your comment it was "a new Oil Pump" and as Mick has described, there have been quite a lot of issues with new ones in the recent past - I hope it isn't for your sake! Do you know where the oil pump was sourced from? Did you rebuild the engine or did you get someone to rebuild it for you? These could all be relevant re the pump if the easy options don't sort it. cheers Rich
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