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rcreweread last won the day on June 8 2019

rcreweread had the most liked content!

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About rcreweread

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    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

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  1. David Try these for wing gaskets - they do both https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tr4A-Tr5-Side-Indicator-Lamp-Gasket-Right-Hand-Front-514808-BAY4-E5-/361741198556?hash=item543974a4dc The plenum seals ( the rubber seals which seal the air vent to the back of the dash) haven't been available for quite a while AFAIAA but easy enough to make out of high density foam rubber cut to shape Cheers Rich
  2. Dan - Have a look in the TR General Technical forum above the TR6 one - similar post cheers Rich
  3. Andy - I have both a NOS repro one and a genuine OE Stanpart one which are both similar but not identical because of their different basis of manufacture. I don't know the origin of the repro one but I'm fairly sure from the remnants of the sticker on it before I had it blasted and painted, it was a Moss one. Anyway, hopefully the attached photos will help you work out if your one has been manufactured the wrong way round. The chassis rails start rising up towards the rear where the rear bridge sits on them and the bridge ends up pretty much vertical - I have tried to show this in the photos but essentially on a flat surface, with the lever arm mounting face correctly pointing forwards, the bracket leans backwards towards the rear. Not easy to explain but I hope you get the drift. Before anyone asks, the Stanpart one is not for sale but I could be persuaded to part company with the repro one. if you are interested cheers Rich
  4. Funny this, I've faced exactly the same problem as well - I've tried the dishwasher route 3 times and it made hardly any difference - I've also tried bleach which made no difference at all. I think the only way may be to use a very fine blast medium ( soda?) both inside and out, but haven'y yet had an opportunity to try it - mind you I have got some nice shiny stainless brackets for the rad overflow bottle, so it would be great to get the bottle to do it justice! Cheers Rich
  5. Hi - if you disconnect the driveshaft from the diff on the side where it's noisier but runs smooth and the noise disappears, then it points to your diff having an issue. Just a thought. Cheers Rich
  6. Rich - for clarity the following photos are from an original UK RHD 1965 TR4A. Adding to Mikes input and maybe a bit easier to see as a fairly bare shell but still with loom in place - hopefully with our enforced lockdown, this won't be like this for much longer so I took lots of photos, for myself as well as everyone else. I've also included the cockpit area as I thought it might help. There's no front panel on this shell at the moment but basically the loom runs up the RH side of the engine compartment as you can see and then goes across the front panel/rad duct to nearside lights. As for the back, the loom goes down onto the RH floor at the front and along the floor /sill and then up the rear wheelarch behind the trim panel and then along the rear wing top to rear light but diverts across top of tank picking up sender unit and then down LH side to pick up the nearside lights Photos hopefully below of the front end - - haven't got any of the back I'm afraid Cheers Rich
  7. And they are blaming cows for global warming!!!! Cheers Rich
  8. Hi Rich et all - have gone and checked one of my unrestored 4A shells and taken some photos. The empty square holes exist on the nearside, but on the offside they are indeed filled with a smallish spire nut, which hold the horn relay in place - they are very similar I think to the ones which hold the headlamp bowl into the front panel. The other holes are threaded and as already stated, are the fixings for the the horn bracket and stay bar. If you can't get the correct spire nuts, then I don't see why you can't use a small nut and bolt with a large washer on the underneath. Hopefully photos will help but I apologise for my cr-p camera work!! cheers Rich
  9. Mike - if you have any difficulty with getting these from Moss . I have a box full which I will happily let you have 16 from at a very reasonable price. cheers Rich
  10. Im sure Roger ( Hogarth) has a solution to this - something like bolting both units front to front and then tightening the bolts but he's complaining of brain fade at the moment in the next post on here so it might take him a little while to get into gear!!!!! Roger - where are you! cheers Rich
  11. Mike - I had some wheel nuts as per your photo above which came with some new hubs - I used them and then found later they had been fouling the back of the wheel - I bet if you look at your wheels, you will see the tell tale marks where the corners of the nuts have dug into your wheel - this would almost certainly explain your "movement" - the wheel will be "rocking" on some of the nuts. Change them for the ones as shown in Peter's post Cheers Rich
  12. If you really want the "bling" of chrome, the other alternative is to get a used set of ordinary wires and and get them refurbished in a powder coated chrome effect - not quite a shiny as chrome but pretty damn good and you have the longevity of a powder coat finish - typically a lot less expensive as well - a number of companies do this - I used Tudor Wheels in the New Forest and was very pleased with both the results and cost. They will also check and repair any damaged/broken spokes and check for spline wear on both wheels and hubs if required. Used sets of wires are readily available and often cheap as chips so worth getting a couple of sets and choosing the best to refurbish Cheers Rich
  13. Isn't Evans coolant flammable? If so, would you drive around with a full petrol can right at the front of your cart? I certainly wouldn't want to! Cheers Rich
  14. Kevin - it was Peter ( BlueTR3A-5EKT) not me who found the original link! cheers Rich
  15. We are all losing the plot! Its a TR4 and the sidelights on this model are a bayonet fiitting as shown on the earlier drawing so follow what Peter said originally - you probably need to press the glass in as you turn cheers Rich
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