Jump to content


TR Register Members
  • Content Count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won


rcreweread last won the day on June 8 2019

rcreweread had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

76 Excellent


About rcreweread

Profile Information

  • Location
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

Recent Profile Visitors

1,784 profile views
  1. Don - I've got a Phoenix manifold but connected to an otherwise standard S/Steel two box exhaust system and whilst I wouldn't says its especially loud, it does make a nice noise! I think you will find the whole sports system ( I think it only has one silencer??) pretty loud Cheers Rich
  2. Matt - ask your gearbox rebuilder if they have any old input shafts that are scrap which you could have, as they make a perfect clutch alignment tool! Cheers Rich
  3. Matt - also mark the clutch cover and flywheel so they go back in the same orientation to each other in case they were balanced together, and also give it a good clean whilst the cover is off to remove any oil and other dirt. Cheers Rich
  4. Andy - thanks for the sentiments - have sorted Christine out. Made me realise how few I have left and as a result haven't been able to help some people, so today have arranged to get some more to keep everyone happy! Cheers Rich
  5. Hi guys - just listed this item for sale in the under £250 forum, but am told it's more of a racing part than a road going one ( not sure if thats true!) so posting here as well for a heads up. Surplus to requirements so open to offers - its brand new and has a part no of TH 4004 ( I think - slightly difficult to read) PM me if interested Cheers Rich
  6. Roy - the front TR4 over riders are not handed and as you say are different to the 4A which are handed - the rear over riders are the same for TR4/4A (and 5 incidentally) and are handed, so do you mean you want a LH side ( passenger side in a RHD car) rear over rider for a TR4 ? If so, I have some rechromed ones so please contact me directly if you still have my details or if not, PM me Cheers Rich
  7. Christine - see my post in the "For Sale, Swap or Wanted, maximum value £250" forum: You have 4 options - polished Stainless Steel with or without a laser cut model logo in the top, or black powder coated alloy with or without the logo. I'm only just down the road from you so you can save the postage - if interested, PM which option is preferable if you haven't got my contact details - I've only got some left so will have to check actual availability cheers Rich ( Colchester)
  8. FWIW, I don't profess to be an expert on these pumps but Dave Davies told me the cast steel, copper coated one piece arm was was used on the early cars up to and including the TR4 , and the three piece laminated steel arm which has a single rivet at the cam end ( I didn't think it was spot welded - certainly the ones I've got don't appear to be and all the ones I've got are not 2 piece but 3 peice) was a later variation used on the TR4A, and I'm not aware of these failing or separating. As such, Dave told me they are just as good as the earlier ones but people don't believe this! What is maybe confusing is that most, if not all, of the repros copy the laminated approach, and these have been known to separate and fail Hope this helps clarify things. Cheers Rich
  9. Clem - All my units are rebuilt by the Cox's and hence I feel confident in offering a 6000 mile/12 month guarantee covering parts and labour, and before anyone jumps on here and says they've had a duff box from them, I'm pretty confident every rebuilder/supplier has the same occasional mishap - sometimes planes and shuttles crash despite billions of pounds of money spent on them! A big chunk of this debate has been about cost, and particularly how little they should/can be, but the reality is that if people really wanted total reliability, are they honestly going to pay way more, ie up to £10k for a unit with all new parts and new part tolerances to match modern manufacturing - I somehow doubt it, so we try our best to provide an honest and good value service with the parts we have, replacing all "service" items and reusing gears etc which are not worn and within tolerance. I am just as upset as a purchaser when something goes wrong and I go out of my way to resolve the situation as best I can as I know how annoying this can be, and from my perspective, it's more about sorting the issue than anything else, including profit. I've sold a few gearboxes in the recent past, but have I made any money overall from this venture - definitely not, and that's not even taking on board all my time in sourcing and collecting units etc etc, so why do I do it, I really don't know!! What I do know is that I enjoy being part of the TR community and if I can help fellow TRers in any way I can, I will and I will always endeavour to offer top quality bits which I am happy to use myself on my own rebuilds - I know and hope some of you have found that to your benefit Cheers Rich
  10. Hamish - thanks for your link - I do sell uprated overdrive gearboxes and have been watching this thread with interest and actually some concern because I think only part of the story is being seen in some cases. Many of the prices being mentioned are for rebuilding someones existing gearbox - that is a no risk option on the rebuilders part because he charges for the cost of the parts needed plus his labour and profit - if nothing much more than bearings, gaskets and normal wear and tear parts are required, then obviously the cost is not going to be that high. Alternatively a fairly trashed gearbox will be a different ball game altogether and could even result in a writen off casing - who will pay for that? Well, you will, not the supplier! And then how long have you got to wait before you get your box back - it can be quite a long time. To try and compare that situation and the prices involved with an outright sale is like comparing apples and pears - they are simply not the same. Even on an exchange basis, there is quite an element of risk involved from the suppliers perspective, and that is why many suppliers quote prices as "from X" and make a surcharge which is refundable once they have stripped down the box and any non wear and tear defects will be charged accordingly, so you don't know to start with what your potential cost exposure might be. All the gearboxes and ODs I sell are uprated so that's another potential apple and pears scenario when making price comparisons, but at the end of the day, its a free world ( supposedly) so you can spend your money where you want. The only reason I supply any gearboxes is because I believe they represent good value for money - I've got an ebay listing for an uprated J type TR6 box, fully rebuilt and outright for £1495 - that seems a bargain to me and it's outright, but then again I'm likely to be biased! So are my units expensive? I don't think so but that's not my call. All I can say is I'm glad it's a hobby, not my business! Keep on TRing Cheers Rich
  11. Anna - it may help if you could indicate what part of the country your dad was in when he owned it. Cheers Rich
  12. Mark - 87mm are same price as 86mm so you get a little extra torque for free - nothing else! I don't think there are any other extra costs associated with doing this, unlike with the 89mm option. Cheers Rich
  13. Mark - whilst it appears you can't get a socket on the deepest conrod/big end bolt, can you get a ring spanner on it? I had this very problem on a previous engine but was able to get a combination spanner ring end on the big end bolt and using the trick of connecting two ring spanners together by putting the open ended end inside a larger ring spanner, I was able to get sufficient leverage to undo them. Then take big end and main caps off , remove crank, and knock out pistons and liners complete - you can then take your time to free the pistons from the liners to salvage the conrods - forget about salvaging the pistons and liners - get a new set of 87mm ones fro TR shop for £255 - great value and more than adequate quality. If you can't be bothered to try and get the conrods out, get a set of the maxspeeding rods which are readily available for about £170 Cheers Rich
  14. Richard - yes good point - usually manifested by play in the bearings which will show up by rocking the wheel when jacked up with handbrake off. John - might I also suggest you ask the moderators to change the title of your post to a more relevant title such " Rear end knocking noise on cornering" and you will get a lot more informed responses Cheers Rich
  15. John - I hope your problem is not the diff bit it could very well be. As this is an expensive part, go through the rear end carefully to eliminate things like the diff mountings, propshaft UJs, and the drivesahft UJs - as it's only noticeable when cornering, does it do this on both left and right hand corners the same or is it only doing it in one type of corner? Often best to jack up one rear wheel at a time making sure other is on the ground and can't turn, and then check both front and rear diff mountings and brackets are all intact. check UJs on the driveshaft and for any play in the driveshaft splines ( you shouldn't really be able to feel any noticeable play in the splines) - if nothing untoward crops up from this, then unfortunately likely to be the diff - have you had any other issues with the diff? If you have a drain plug in the diff ( you probably haven't), drain the old and look for any broken teeth in the oil. If you conclude it is the diff, I can help you with a rebuilt one if you need one - just PM me - whereabouts are you as a matter of interest? Cheers Rich
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.