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About rcreweread

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

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  1. Rod - if you can't get the tank in it's correct place vis a vis its mountings, how is it's filler inlet fit in relation to the hole in the rear deck - if it's nice and central, then you will have to use appropriate spacers as you can't move the tank away from that location without losing that critical positioning - there isn't much wiggle room between the neck of the fuel cap and the hole in the rear deck to play with, particularly when you fit the grommet in the rear deck. If you have no alternative, I don't see why you shouldn't make up suitably sized spacers, both in thickness and sur
  2. Rod - the mounting holes in the flange around the tank are all in the same plane and hence your bodyshell mountings should be the same. Did you brace the rear shell area once you took the tank out before the work was done to it? I suspect not, and I hate to say this, but it sounds like the area around the tank/rear deck area has become distorted during the rebuild. The bottom of the tank sits just above the rear floor area and is supported in this position by the mounting points in the vertical part of the rear boot floor - if this area has been put in too high, then that would create the
  3. Pete - if you ask them, they will send you some samples - I ended up in the end with a TR Shop standard set which were both good value and quality, and which Stuart uses so that was good enough for me. Cheers Rich
  4. Alan - that's really interesting - I have been taking 4000mu a day for the last year since Peter first started his post - I also take Cod liver oil capsules but not sure if they naturally have Vitamin D in them. How do you go about getting a test? Presumably you had it done privately and if so, what did it cost? Can you post a link please Cheers Rich
  5. Mike - "PM" stands for Personal Message which goes into your Forum mailbox which you probably didn't even know you had - if you go to the top of a Forum page, you will see an envelope icon - click on this and it will open your mailbox and you will find Stuart's message to you - it is private and hence only you can see it - you can respond to his message from within the mailbox so essentially you can conduct a private conversation. You can also set up various options so you get an automatic email if someone sends you a PM which I find very useful. Hope this helps Cheers Rich
  6. I do have a couple spare of spare ones which Dave has refurbished which I could make available on an exchange basis - PM me if interested Cheers Rich
  7. Hi all - If DD mentioned above by Tony C is referring to Dave Davies, he is unfortunately suffering with some eyesight issues and awaiting surgery so is unable to do any refurbs at the current time, and this may go on for a while if normal surgical procedures are cancelled because of Covid Cheers Rich
  8. I wasn't overly impressed to be honest with the programme - the hood and frame was folded down and the whole lot put behind the rear seat squab - I always thought you had to take the hood off the frame before folding it behind the rear squab - that's what I've always done, and I know I wouldn't get the hood behind the seat as well as it's tight enough with just the frame - I hate to think what it did to the precious hood. And as for importing and fitting a TR6 door skin, well that was just daft in my view - I would happily have panel beaten out the crease/dents and retained the whole of t
  9. John - not sure if this is relevant but here goes in case it is. When I got my first mini at the age of 16, I stripped the engine down and modified and gas flowed the head as per David Vizard and all the advice in the tuning magazine of the day called Triple C ( Cars and Car Conversions) - at the time, I had a holiday job in our local garage . Having successfully done the head, and now knowing everything there was about gas flowing, I looked inside the inlet tract of my high performance 1 1/4 SU and concluded that SU should have done better, so I ground away the step/ridge in front o
  10. I think there is a lot of misinformation circulating about this issue - I arranged to send a crate to Belgium with a gearbox in it just before Christmas - it was picked up in the West Midlands on Friday 18th December by TNT and naturally I was extremely worried as to what would happen and how long it would take, because at that point we still did not have an agreement with the EU. All the media coverage was saying that there was chaos at the Channel ports and total mayhem. You can imagine my surprise when it arrived at it's destination in Belgium on Wednesday 23 Dec by 10.00am! In
  11. Ralph - I think I've got some if I understand correctly what you are looking for- I'll have a look if Peter can't help. I can remember one of the selector rods had an extension piece on the back of the rod so it stuck out a lot further than the others which I thought operated the inhibitor switch mounted in the bracket you are talking about, to operate the reversing lights. However I can't remember which selector rod it was but would have thought it was the reverse selector rod as otherwise how would selecting reverse operate the switch? When converting these to TR spec boxes, Pete Cox wo
  12. Hi all - I started the above enquiry in the General Technical Forum and Bob (Lebro ) responded that the curved one was the same as the one on his TR3 engine, hence I thought it might be better to follow this up in this Forum. I wasn't aware early cars were different so does anyone know when the changeover point to the straight snorkel took place? Was it on the introduction of the TR4? I presume the early snorkel mounting bracket fits under a sump bolt whereas the later one fits on the rear fuel pump mounting stud. Any further info would be much appreciated Cheers Rich
  13. Hi all - would appreciate some help identifying a breather which I recently acquired in a job lot of parts. The one with a straight down tube (RH one in first photo) is the usual 4 pot one , TR2-4 as far as I know, but what is the other one from with a curved downtube ( LH one in first photo)? ( yet again the second photo has been inverted when I downloaded it from my photo library and I have no idea why it's doing this!). The "curved" one doesn't appear to been modified from a straight one and it's fixing bracket is in a different place and orientation so I'm assuming it must be a g
  14. Tony I think wires look great and really set the car off, but these. like all opinions, are subjective - if you like them, go for them - you are doing the right thing by asking so you can decide with good knowledge which way to go - couple of photos below of my car with 60 spoke silver powder coated wires fitted in 2012 . These don't have spacers fitted, but I don't think eared spinners on 5.5Js even with spacers will noticeably stick out These are some fairly recent post/threads: Also this one started in 2019: Hope these help Cheers Rich
  15. Tony - if you are dead set on wires, I second all those opinions saying don't go for chrome - they are even more difficult to clean than painted ones and they rust very easily as the chrome plating appears to be very thin. All new wires are expensive, whether they be painted or chrome but there is a low cost alternative and that is pick up a set ( or two ) of used ones ( plenty about, often for very little money), and get then checked and refurbished by a company like Tudor Wheels in the New Forest for, I think, about £65 a wheel - they will repaint ( I think it's powder coat) in your cho
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