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rcreweread

TR Register Members
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About rcreweread

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  • Location
    Colchester
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

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  1. Make sure the master cylinder isn’t full to the top with the top on, hence nowhere for the fluid to go - the vent hole will allow some to escape ( and strip your paint) but possibly not enough quickly enough when trying to push piston back cheers Rich
  2. David - £196 for CD's moulded and veneered door cappings is a very good price and you are baulking at it!!! TR Shop used to charge £345 ( don't know what they charge now) and the other suppliers similar or more - I think the vinyl ones are not that different in price either. In my humble opinion, there is no contest between the two types - the wood ones really do set off the interior and worth every penny, and more even at full price Cheers Rich
  3. Greg - don't forget you will need to rig up a power supply for it - I found the easiest way was to buy an adapter with a cigarette lighter socket one end and a cable with crocodile clips the other to go straight on the battery terminals - in time you can then install a permanent feed somewhere as so much modern electronic stuff needs them ie Sat Nav, phone etc Something like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/384817920496?hash=item5998ef79f0:g:GNoAAOSwLytiTF8j cheers Rich
  4. Peter - I appreciate the delays are frustrating but stick with it! you can contact other members by sending a “PM” - a personal message - click on the persons avatar on any post and that will open up a series of options whereby you can send them a message with your contact details - if you get a message it goes into your forum mailbox - it’s the envelope in top right hand corner of a forum page - if you have an unread message, there will be a red flag against it I don’t understand why new Forumites aren’t given an induction message when joining explaining all this John( Morriso
  5. Glad to have been able to help - I'm stumped on floor mats though but I'm sure others will be along with some ideas - keep on posting! cheers Rich
  6. MB is a saloon casing which as Bob says has been fitted with an early top cover - not sure about the other number which may be a rebuilders number as obviously the box has been got at previously. Is there an ID plate on the OD unit - that might give some more clues cheers Rich
  7. Jason - in short yes, and there should be a little rubber buffer which is secured by a a small rubber protrusion which goes into the small hole in them - yours look bent as well - they should be flat Cheers Rich
  8. Sean - I think ( not 100% ) one of these will do the job - Lucas 58SA Two Way Switch - some available on fleabay - here's one: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/202965266199?hash=item2f41ac2f17:g:DXMAAOSw07JelcBy Cheers Rich
  9. Lars - might be worth speaking to Richard Powney who advertised these TR4/4A gauges on Classifieds some time ago and is based in Denmark, I think. Link is: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/classified/4262/TR4-magnoliafaced-gauges-with-convex-glass-kmh-speedometer Cheers Rich
  10. Mike - I didn't think TR gearboxes had a steel selector cover at the base of the gearlever - I believe this was done on some saloons on which the reversing lights switch was mounted and operated by an extension piece on the back of the reverse gear selector. Cheers Rich
  11. Cliff - if you are looking for a replacement nearside TR6 trailing arm, I have one! It's the only one I've got, and it's been fully refurbished - this involved it being blasted inside and out, then painted, checked for no cracks, all the studs renewed with new nylocs and washers, threads checked and found to be OK, inside then waxoyled and new/good rubber grommets fitted - please see attached photos - not looking for a fortune just a fair price so if interested PM me your contact details and we can discuss Cheers Rich
  12. I wonder if the TA would have broken if a traditional lever arm was being used? Cheers Rich
  13. Andy - hate be be a doom monger but as soon as I read your original post, I immediately thought the OD was likely to be the culprit. If it was the clutch, I would expect that to be a more continuous and progressive slipping. I have experienced whirring noises like you initially described on a defective overdrive. Rebuild time I'm afraid - try Pete Cox Sportscars or alternatively give them a call to discuss. Might be an idea to have your gearbox checked over and upgraded at the same time Cheers Rich
  14. David - I'm pretty sure Roger Hogarth has used the Moss new ones, and rates them as perfectly adequate/good - I believe he has them on his car and does some pretty serious mileages so his experience will be very useful. I don't know if they are the same as the Rimmer ones though. No doubt Roger will be along to confirm or otherwise Cheers Rich
  15. Wayne - thank you for your swift response Cheers Rich
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