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About rcreweread

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

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  1. I have posted previously with photos and dimensions of these tubes but haven’t had a chance to try and find them - maybe someone can. As far as I can recall , the tubes are definitely not straight cheers Rich
  2. If you are not in a rush, I have had quite a lot of success removing the trailing arm studs without damaging the TA threads - I remove the TA and hold it so the the studs and flange are vertical and then regularly dose each stud with a quality penetrating oil such as Plus-gas (not WD40!) daily for typically a week. Following this the studs nearly always come out cleanly with the threads in the TA intact - it's only failed on one TA when I was in too much of a hurry and didn't dose the studs for long enough and 2 studs stripped their threads - not saying it's always perfect but it's worked
  3. The original link to the car which Stuart posted no longer works - anyone know of a link which works? Cheers Rich
  4. Or if you haven't got an old useable nut ( you should have from the the old joint but they are not always the same thread), put several washers on first so you can get the new nut to tighten up before it hits the nyloc bit, and once it's gripped, undo and remove the washers, then re-tighten - lots of options Cheers Rich
  5. Alternatively, carefully jack up under the lower wishbone to put some pressure on the ball joint taper and it should grip enough to start tightening. Cheers Rich
  6. Coventry Hood and Tonneau as a guess? cheers Rich
  7. Hi - to remove the bushes, I use a hole cutter with a bore just a bit bigger than the metal insert in the bush, and once the core is removed, the remaining rubber part of the bush is easily removed - then you are likely to find a yellowy/white substance on the aluminium under the bush which is oxidised corrosion which you will need to remove - the same corrosion is likely to be found inside the hollow sections of trailing arm - once removed with some careful blasting, then it's a good idea to treat the inside with some corrosion inhibitor, making sure the rubber bungs are good and weathertight
  8. Keith - they might be the same as Ford ones but these were sourced as Land Rover ones. Cheers Rich
  9. Keith - I've just measured the ones I have and they are 78mm in diameter and 38mm in depth - see photos cheers Rich
  10. Neil - if you knew me better, you wouldn't make comments like that. I have a TR4 and three TR4As, all of which I acquired in 1980/81 - the TR4 was my daily driver form 1980 to 1983 when I took it off the road - the 4A's were all restoration jobs then and still are, but progress is being made, one at a time now that I am retired, following the full rebuild of my TR4 in 2012 so I don't know what you are getting at when you say " I will let others make their own conclusions" - what conclusions are you implying that people should make - that these are fictitious vehicles? Because there are plenty
  11. Just a customer? Neil - what don't you understand? I clearly state that I am a "soon to be customer", and indeed I am. As I have three TR4As to fully restore, I need plenty of parts and if in the course of securing those parts, I do a few extra to get a better deal and to make the spare ones available to other TRers, is that a problem for you? I would have thought and hoped that that is exactly what the forum and Club is about. I think most forumites would welcome what I do but presumably you don't. I like to be helpful and conciliatory in everything I do, and if that upsets yo
  12. Dave - you could also try these guys who are new on the block, and seem to know what thy are talking about - will be sending a batch to them shortly and they will uprate them if you want: https://www.vandcengineering.co.uk/ No connection other than a soon to be customer having discussed at length their parts provision , method and pricing which I found re-assuring Cheers Rich
  13. Neil - as both Stuart and Roger have pointed out, the outlet facing the engine is correct. Hopefully your repro pump will work well, reliably and be leak free although their reputation in this respect isn't brilliant. If you need to change it in the future, I have a small stock of genuine AC Delco pumps, refurbished by Dave Davies, so the very best quality. Just PM me if of interest Cheers Rich PS Sorry about the upside down photos - this often happens when I upload them but don't know how to re-orientate them!
  14. Dave - this is my take on fitting the strengthening brackets on my 4A chassis - I’ve added a few extra strengthening fillets to further support the new brackets as total belt and braces ive also boxed in the front body mount as I’ve always felt that looked particularly weak. You are also correct about shortening the front reinforcing bracket because you won’t be able to fit the bumper support bracket if you dont cheers Rich
  15. John - if you want an accurate speedo , you will need to change the Speedo drive for a TR one ( 15 inch wheels as opposed to 14”). You you also need to change the rear output flange for a TR one as the PCD of the saloon one is very slightly different - you can re- drill the saloon one to match but it has to be accurately done otherwise you will get vibrations and knock out your bearings very quickly . If you retain the saloon input shaft, which is ok to do, simply carry on using the matching saloon clutch plate. You could also consider tapping the top cover to take an extra inhibito
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