rcreweread

An IRS diff is as near as dammit 30 kgs with no oil in it And second Hamish’s recommendation of Pete Cox Sportscars cheers Rich C-R

Eddie -if your starter motor turns out to be duff, I have a reconditioned OE one available for sale at £130 outright plus postage - some photos attached. PM me if interested Cheers Rich Crewe-Read

Rob - if Pete has sold his speedo and rev counter, I have a speedo and the 4 small instruments surplus to my requirements - the speedo is geared for a 3.7 diff and all the instruments have been fully reconditioned - please see attached photo but note the rev counter is not included as it has been sold separately, Looking for £125 for the speedo and £275 for the 4 small instruments which I would prefer to sell as a set. I do also have a few additional, individual small instruments at £75 each ( all again reconditioned or new as stated): 3 x Lucas +30 - -30 Ammeters Early TR4 ele

Ollie - from what I can recall, whether the car is RHD or LHD doesn't matter as the tanks and locations of the fuel lines are the same for both hands - however there is a difference between the early and late models and this primarily related to the shape of the underside of the tank to fit around the different floor pans which were changed during production - whether at the same time, I'm not sure, but the outlets changed as well - its easy enough to drill a hole in the floor for a different outlet, but you will struggle to fit a wrong tank for your floor. If you only have a few pinholes

Alf - I think I would be reticent to use that repro pump because the operating arm looks very "rough", and could easily damage the operating lobe on the cam - the surface of the part of the arm which connects with the cam lobe should be really smooth and hardened to ensure longevity and minimal wear. The other point to bear in mind whenkeeping any spare is to make sure it works in the first place before packing it up as a spare- don't ask me how I know. Dave Davies told me he reckoned the "Made in Canada" repros were the best of the bunch, but still not as good as an OE AC one.

Just to be clear, a 4A rack is shorter than a TR4 one, which I suspect is why "Nonothing" is asking the question - unfortunately I don't know the respective dimensions but I see no reason to doubt Dave's info from the WSM (Assuming it was for a TR4 and not a 4A) Cheers Rich C-R

Jim - thanks for the update - glad to have been of help - keep us posted on future progress Cheers Rich

Tim - you need to mark one of the output flanges with a chalk mark and do the same with the prop flange - then clamp a mole grips to the other out put flange and locate it against the floor so it doesn't turn when you rotate the other flange. Now turn the chalked output flange two whole revolutions and count how many times the input flange revolved - you don't have to be accurate to nth degrees -approx 4 turns will equate to a 4.1 ratio , 3.5 turns to a 3.45 and three and three quarter turns to a 3.7 ratio - simple and no dismantling - this can also be done with the diff in situ in the car -

Tim - that over stamped serial number on the diff looks like it could begin with a "M" which in my experience would normally be followed by a "B"- this would indicate it was originally a saloon diff which has been rebuilt and fitted with a TR5/6 front bracket and rear casing. Saloon diffs were often sourced as donor diffs as they were typically a 3.45 ratio, the correct ratio for a UK TR5/6, but exported cars to the US were fitted with a 3.7 ratio diff. These numbers are usually on the underneath spine of the cast iron casing running from back to front, but I have never seen the CP letter

Hi all - this is what I found when I was trying to "key alike" all the parts which require a key - firstly, the glove box lock is not really capable of being dismantled to get inside to the tumblers - however Triumph kindly stamped the key number on the barrel so you don't need to get inside but it means you can't change the tumblers - the key number is not always visible until you give the barrel a good clean with a wire brush. Having established the key for this, then a good old fashioned locksmith( or enthusiastic young locksmith with a penchant for classic cars) should be able to key

I have also used the bolt deburring tool which Ian mentions, like this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/326294334430?_skw=deburring+tool&epid=18032391897&itmmeta=01J9EZ6X67ZWV6EC780HF8929R&hash=item4bf8a86bde:g:GHIAAOSw4YBnAVVt&itmprp= Cheers Rich C-R

Thanks

Phil - I have a fully refurbished one spare - have sent you an email with photos Cheers Rich C-R

Mike - I have been in touch with Andy direct - unfortunately I haven't got any TR6 ones left - would appreciate you removing my phone number and email from your post so scammers don't pick them up - click on the three dots in the top right corner of your post and you will be able to edit those bits out of your post Cheers Rich C-R

Bob - I'm happy with a 2 1/4" hexagon bolt Cheers Rich Crewe-Read