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rcreweread

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rcreweread last won the day on June 8

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About rcreweread

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  • Location
    Colchester
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

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  1. Terry - as Dave has illustrated in his post, if it's an original TR box, it should be stamped on either the vertical face or top face of the boss where the clutch cross shaft comes out of the bellhousing with the lever on it, which is on the LH side. If your box previously started life in one of the triumph saloons, it could be on the other side boss of the cross shaft and here they are often on the top face but also can be on the vertical face - hence difficult to read from underneath. Dont bother with the casting numbers on the side of the gearbox as they are not usually helpful. If you are struggling, send me a PM with your contact details and I can talk you through it. Cheers Rich
  2. The late Clive Manvers told me he got lots of plaudits from satisfied customers who complained of clonks for very little cost - his solution - a big lump hammer. His answer to those who wanted pristine spinners - what do you want - clonk free wheels on your wagon and patina-ed spinners or potentially 3 wheels and 3 spinners all pristine! In other words, as Pete says, give it hell! Cheers Rich
  3. Andy Thanks for the response and I appreciate what you are saying - my original posting was not so much about how well or otherwise I did at Stratford but rather highlighting the fact that people often say they are fed up with poor quality parts and will pay more for decent parts, but my experience didn't suggest this. I only sell stuff I would use in my own restorations, hence it has to be good because I set myself very high standards - I would have thought that would be fairly self evident from the parts themselves on display, followed up by explanations what had been done to them and if refurbished by a third party company, who that was and why they were used. I have followed the forum for many years now, and every time someone posts a supported recommendation for a top quality supplier, I make a note of it and follow it up, and then use them. I accept many people will not know me from Adam and that reputation takes a long time to establish and people need to trust you - my big ticket items like the diffs and gearboxes are all rebuilt by Pete Cox and come with a 6000 mile/12 month guarantee and that was made very clear to anyone interested, so I don't know what else I can usefully do. I am not a trader and I don't want to be - I've got a number of TR restorations to do in my retirement, and that means I need quite a few parts. If along the way, I can source quality parts at great prices, then I am happy to try and help other enthusiasts by making them available and thats it. Hopefully those that have bought stuff off me have been satisfied as I don't recall any complaints as such and when there has been a problem, and they do occur occasionally, I have been fastidious in how I deal with them to mitigate any consequences. If this post has come across as if I'm whingeing about being hard done by, it's been misconstrued as I'm genuinely not, but I do also genuinely appreciate every ones constructive comments - honestly Cheers Rich Ps I'm not a politician!
  4. Hi - I maybe wrong but I thought the front brake hoses on a TR6 didn't go straight into the caliper but were fitted to one end of a small section of highly curved metal brake pipe which then in turn fitted into the caliper. That's the bit which can be easily modified with different ends to accommodate whichever type of thread you have in your caliper. Cheers Rich
  5. Rob - Definitely repair rather than replace wherever possible - the rear valence and dented sill are definitely repairable, in my view -may need some skillful tin bashing but will save you a lot of money and you know it fits! Lets have a look at the other bits you feel are past it as they may not be! Cheers Rich
  6. Graeme Thanks for clarifying - I didn't know that! Cheers Rich
  7. Hi everyone Have just put an ad in Classifieds for a complete set of the above which has been professionally retrimmed and finished with stitched edging - looks the dogs boll---s! Pretty rare and unique set as far as I know, so open to genuine offers - PM me if interested with contact details and email, and I can send you some more and better photos than in the ad Cheers Rich
  8. Hi - just put an ad in Classifieds for a brand new set of the above from Classical Dash for £450 - a saving of just under £150 over normal prices, in case anyone on here is interested, as I know a lot of people don't look in Classifieds. Cheers Rich
  9. Dave - rear cover has already been combined with a rear mounting ready to be blasted and powder coated before fitting to a 4A diff, so thanks for that - glad you are pleased with the OE door pull cheers Rich
  10. So when one of these offers comes along, there are still other fees to pay as well from I understand and it's this lack of transparency which creates a lack of trust from my perspective, hence I don't list at all! I should try and learn a bit more about the whole process and whether you can draft possible ads and store them awaiting an offer - my cynicism means I suspect if you can do this, ebay can see it so may not offer any promotions - alternatively I suppose you could argue they might offer the promotion to encourage the listing An ebay virgin aka cheers Rich
  11. Guys Thanks for all your encouragement and helpful comments and I'm sorry there has been some delay in coming back to this post. I will get round to responding to all those who have offered help ( it may be a little while as on a few days hols with the family and the dog and doing much TR stuff is definitely a no-no!!) I do want to stress again that this wasn't supposed to be a moan about how well or not I did, but rather an observation on the reality of demand for quality parts which I thought would be better - price is obviously a major factor in this - I work to fairly small margins to start with, and with OE parts being sold on an outright basis which has to be the norm at shows, I have to be conscious of how I replace that stock and how much it costs to start with. New parts such as the fuel tanks, rads and dashboards do not face the same problem and that is a much simpler margin decision which I think I'm getting about right. I probably ought to do more on ebay but I resent the costs involved - I did list an OD gearbox not long ago and there were lots of views and watchers, but I hadn't realised how much the total fees would be if I sold it ( the Buy it Now Price was was £2000), so I withdrew it. I do need to more fully understand ebay selling fees and see if I can take advantage of all the offers they make but its always time which gets in the way ! (pathetic excuse I know) Anyway, got to go now - beach dog walk is calling. Cheers Rich
  12. Jose If it helps, here are some photos of the low port one and the 4A one - as you can see, they have been fully prepped - this involved trueing all the faces, blasting, then VHT painting and curing, Finally, they are ftted with new studs, if necessary, and washers, brass nuts and gaskets. This may help you better identify what you need PM me if I can be of any further help Cheers Rich
  13. Jose - there seems to be some confusion if you search for this part number on the Moss site, because it says this is a low port manifold, but if you go into the detailed parts diagrams, it says it's a high port! Unfortunately the one high port one I had, I sold. I still have 2 low port ones, but I also have a TR4A manifold which could be used with an appropriate adapter piece to take it from the twin pipe manifold outlet to your single pipe. Are you talking about a 3A or a 4 as a matter of interest? Cheers Rich
  14. Chris - yes I do have a Burr Elm dash for a 4A - an excellent choice in my view as a bit lighter than Burr Walnut which I thinks suits the 4A better. - if you add matching door cappings ( you either love them or hate them), it looks the dogs bo——is in my view Send me a PM with your contact details and I will get in touch cheers Rich
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