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rcreweread

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rcreweread last won the day on June 8

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About rcreweread

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  • Location
    Colchester
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4 (1962), various TR4As, Austin Healey Sprite

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  1. Mick - I've just got an old PM from you about engine rebuilding but not presumably the PM you sent me earlier - my mailbox has got space in it for new PMs - I sent you a test PM - did you get that? Cheers Rich 07954 252 338
  2. Mick - nothing come through yet - I see the PM I sent Francois hasn't been read by him yet either so I 'm wondering if it's a funtionality issue with the forum stuff apparently going on at the moment - have sent you a test PM to see if it works from me! cheers Rich
  3. Hamish - I'm sure it's not that powerful but it feels it when you drive it which is what it's all about really - well when on the road but no good for you when sprinting/racing, although driveability is still all important. A seasoned enthusiast once said to me , horsepower sells cars quickly, but torque makes them go quickly! Cheers Rich
  4. Hamish - its never been on a rolling road but it pulls from literally 1000rpm and then goes all the way up to 4500+ but I normally change gear then although it will easily pull round to my redline at 5500 in 1st and 2nd in no time at all. I have no idea of the power output but I would guess about 120bhp Cheers Rich
  5. Francois - I am by no means an expert on high performance 4 pot engines, but have some observations which may be helpful. I hadn't read the earlier posts from last year when I first read your most recent one today. It would seem you have have downgraded your engine expectations in the intervening period which makes for some interesting options. You have obviously got used to driving high performance modern diesels, but I wouldn't be surprised if your modern car weighed the best part of two tons, a hell of a lot more than a 3A, so to get equivalent torque performance, in my humble opinion, you won't need anything like 200bhp and not even 160bhp. The 4 cylinder engines are well known for their torque in the first place and even mild tuning can make a big difference to their driveability - it is also very easy to destroy the torque characteristics of these engines, and that normally happens by use of an inappropriate camshaft. When I approached a very experienced TR engine builder about a typical spec for my TR4 engine, I explained I didn't want a racy engine but rather a really torquey one. He was pleased as he said he had made more money than anything else rebuilding rebuilt 4 pot TR engines where fast road cams had been fitted because these just didn't suit these engines. I didn't have a vast budget so the spec we settled on was an 89mm piston and liner set, a high torque cam ( ie something like a Newman PH1), an unleaded head but otherwise standard ( I asked about improving the head and he said he could quite happily take another £700 off me to gas flow and improve the head but it wasn't absolutely necessary), a Phoenix sports exhaust manifold and system , retention of my fully restored HS6 carbs with slightly richer needles, electronic ignition, all fully balanced and a lightened flywheel. If you are not proposing to use more than 5500 rpm, provided you get everything fully balanced, I don't believe you need to go overboard with steel bits inside your engine, but if money is no object, then no harm in doing so. Well everything he said turned out to be true - I have a lovely, smooth and driveable engine with loads of torque which didn't cost a fortune - I tend to use high octane petrol as far as possible which I'm sure helps. Undoubtedly this could be further improved but the fact that you say you already have a stage 2 head and yet want more torque makes me wonder if you have an inappropriate cam. I can't help feeling with the basics of what you already have, you should be able to achieve a really torquey unit for not that much money - for torque, you need cc's so go for the bigger piston and liner set. However, there is no doubt that going down the supercharger route will give you tons of torque and power, and sound great as well but at a fair old price! Moving onto the drivetrain, I have no actual experience of how you improve your back axle, but I'm sure others will be along to recommend appropriate improvements. I don't think you need to worry too much about your propshaft other than replacing the UJs with heavy duty ones, but you will need to do something to your gearbox/OD if you want reliability - my preference would be to go for a Stag box with an uprated OD as these are the strongest gearboxes you can have in a roadgoing car. So definitely an exciting project with lots of angles but I'm sure we will all be interested is seeing and hearing how it develops. More than happy to discuss further if you want to contact me so have sent you a PM ( personal message) Cheers Rich
  6. All the above options work but can be messy. I found that the brittleness of the underseal, albeit it was pretty much intact and stuck on, meant that if I used a narrow flat bladed scraper ie 1-1.5 inches wide and got under the leading edge of the underseal with a stabbing type motion, it would flick off in chunks leaving the paint finish almost clean underneath. However make sure you grind off the very edge corners of the scraper so it doesn't "dig" into the metal otherwise you will end up with lots of little nicks in the metal. Would post a photo of what I've done but away from home at the moment so not possible Cheers Rich
  7. Gavin - how are you actually driving the car when you engage or disengage the OD? If you are lifting off the accelerator in anticipation of the OD engagement or disengagement, you will get a very obvious and jerky action. Try keeping your foot hard down and engage OD and see it is any different, and likewise don't lift off when deselecting. Do you know if your J type is a standard 25% ratio or has it been upgraded to a 28%? If the latter, it is even more relevant to NOT lift off - just think about the different turning speeds of the various components trying to accommodate each other in a very short space of time. There are high grip cone clutches available for the OD, mainly for hard users, and these will give a more aggressive response, but not as you describe so it's possible one was fitted in the earlier rebuild - like Bruce suggests though, be wary of using the wrong oil - it will come back to bite you cheers Rich
  8. Well I was nearly right! Whats a Maxi or Allegro Sport between friends!!! The £12.50 price tag was also some distant info floating around in the vacuum of my brain. On a serious note then, to avoid posting misinformation, can anyone confirm what the carbs are off in the ebay advert mentioned above? Cheers Rich
  9. Phil - yes, correct, but they are later carbs with the dumpy dashpots and probably with the 3 hole triangular front fitting for the air cleaners - I think these might be the ones sold by Cox and Buckles years ago for very little money which might have been originally produced for a Maxi- they might also have been for Dolly Sprints. They are not for the purists but as far as I am aware , are fine for TR's if appropriately jetted and needled Cheers Rich
  10. Ross - as per Roger's response above, I sent you a PM last night as well which, if I believe the forum system info, is showing that you haven't read it yet Cheers Rich
  11. Alf - the plenum bolts are awkward but get -attable - however, because of their length, they go through the captive nut inside the plenum chamber and stick out about 1/4 in what is a fairly hostile environment for metal, hence they get pretty rusty and corroded. In my experience, its easy to get lulled into a false hope that they are coming out, but they can often get tighter and tighter the more they are unwound, and then they break or the captive nut breaks loose!! Now you really are in the poo!! Don't ask me how I know this! I was fortunate that I was working on a shell, not a finished car, so could get access more easily to rectify the situation. Good luck Cheers Rich
  12. Steve? I might be able to help - how do these look? Fully rebuilt on a 4A manifold complete with all linkages etc, ready to bolt on and go! Have sent you a PM so you can contact me if of interest ( a PM is a personal message which has been sent to your forum message box which you will find in the top right hand corner of the page, indicated by an envelope icon - click on it and it will open up your message box - if you have an unread message, there will be a red flag attached to the icon) Cheers Rich
  13. Marco - I think you will find quite a few will tell you there is nothing wrong with standard discs but you want to put your money into some good pads - Hawke and Ferodo come highly recommended - green stuff pads have not been found to work well . A search on forum will tell you which Hawke and Ferodo to go for and/or someone will be along shortly to advise -I cant at moment as travelling cheers Rich
  14. I think I'm right in saying the cross tube is held on by three 3/8 UNF bolts probably about 1" long which fit into threaded holes in the turret - these in practice have nuts welded on the inside of the turret which are almost impossible to get to. If the whole area has suffered bad corrosion, I can well imagine the welded nuts breaking free if the bolt is seized, in which case you would have little choice but to replace with a nut and bolt ( really fiddly I imagine). Quite often the cross tube is difficult to fit as the turrets tilt inwards a little when it's removed. You have to spread them again to get it to fit, if you don't want to resort to using a big lump hammer to knock the cross tube into place. Cheers Rich
  15. I posted my last reply just as Michael was posting his - I didn't take offence as I said above - simple misunderstanding it looks like to me, so, Michael stay with the forum and don't be afraid to ask questions in the future. If you ever want to buy any of my bits, I'll throw in a free apple!! cheers Rich
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