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Phil Read

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    188
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About Phil Read

Profile Information

  • Location
    BD23
  • Cars Owned:
    1958 TR3, 1966 TR4A, 1973 TR6

Recent Profile Visitors

565 profile views
  1. I am getting to the stage where I am trial fitting the rear wings after fitting a new rear apron. I notice the parts book lists pt 602167 clamp, rear wing fixing. When I dismantled the car it did not have these clamps fit, they had probably rotted away with the rest of the wing. Are they essential and if so where/how do they fit?
  2. Just spotted this. the estimate seems to be a "come and get me" https://www.the-saleroom.com/en-gb/auction-catalogues/anglia-car-auctions/catalogue-id-anglia1-10010/lot-f82d32cf-ff1c-46aa-9d3a-aca600b09119
  3. Yep I looked at it and thought of the Rover P6
  4. My wife and I have always had Samsung. My present one is a duel sim which I used when working overseas its around 7 years old and the battery is still good. My daughter recently bought a cheap Huawei and its brilliant.
  5. Who are the "we". never bought a foreign car in my life.
  6. Or This phrase can also be used in different ways, such as ‘to fettle someone’ which means to sort them out, I am in fine fettle.
  7. Hi All i had a phone call from the owner yesterday. He had the head gasket job done but on testing it was still blowing water out. Rather than mess about and to make sure it is right he has had a reconditioned engine fit. It will be relisted on the auction site in 7 to 10 days.
  8. I have spoken to the owner, withdrawn as it had a cylinder head problem. When fettled it will be re listed.
  9. Forgot to say, dont listen to those who say the engine must have 60-70 psi and 25+ at tick over, If it doesnt rattle on start up, the oil light is out on tick over and you dont intend to flog it, it will last for years.
  10. A man after my own heart. Dont send it to a restorer it will cost a bomb and then you wont want to use it. I have restored many cars in the last 20+ years, slowly doing them myself on a budget. I have never tried to do one to concours or any where near it costs too much and then you have to put them in cotton wool. There is some good advice on here. Get the chassis checked out and if ok then all the mechanicals. Body wise use the 1 metre rule, if it looks ok from 1 metre away, jump in and enjoy driving it.
  11. doooo! I was looking at the mountings on the body page. Thanks
  12. I have the floor out and notice that between the chassis outrigger and the inner sill floor mounts there is a fibre pad about 5mm thick. Is this a factory part? I cannot see any reference in the parts book.
  13. Whatever you do you are going to have to use a skim of filler on the outside to get a good finish. I have used Roger's technique in the past but with countersunk alluminium pop rivets (note this was with an alluminium body panel). A great deal depends on your skills, equipment you have and the budget. Have you considered a good second hand wing instead?
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