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Phil Read

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    116
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About Phil Read

Profile Information

  • Location
    BD23
  • Cars Owned:
    1958 TR3, 1966 TR4A, 1973 TR6

Recent Profile Visitors

480 profile views
  1. I fit one from the top about 18 months ago, it was a fiddly but simple task. But a word of warning. After a couple of thousand miles I noticed a bad oil leak on the drive. On inspection I found the bolt holding the filter housing on had worked loose. Tighting it up solved the problem but I will be checking it regularly from now.
  2. Thanks for that. Mine looks as though it has been repaired several times, there is a lot of dried red mastik in the gaps. I know it had alot of work done back in the early 90s when it was reimported. When I have all the panels somehwere near I will tack weld so I can remove the clamps and see if the wings fit before final welding.
  3. Not any more, all is metric on new cars, that is until January then we go American.
  4. It all depends on what you call an "enhanser" Modern fuel goes off quickly and enhansers are useful in stopping it going "stale" when a car is laid up. You can also get enhansers that stabalise by converting any water in the system which could cause corrosion, this is an issue with ethanol fuels.
  5. Phil Read

    Diff oil

    Complicated isnt it. When I was in the trade back in the 60s and 70s it was EP90/140 or nowt. Now you have GL1-6 although I think 6 is not available. A little reseach shows that GL5 is ok is final drives but not in transmissions eg gearboxes. I still use a common or garden EP90 in my final drive, its cheap readily available and meets the manufacturers spec. Unless your a racer, doing donuts and wheel spins you should not need anything else.
  6. I sent it back and got a refund. My panel from Bastuck arrived yesterday, a bit dearer but 200% better quality.
  7. I am trying to line up all the panels on the rear before parching and tack welding. Unfortunately every thing only fits where it touches. One query I have is do the tubes on the lower part of the rear apron go through the holes in the lower closing panel or just but up to it?
  8. I have just removed the rear body to chassis mounting bolts on my 3A so that I can lift the body slightly to fit the inner lower inner panel. Between the body an chassis was a triangular rubber pad. I checked the parts book to order new ones but find that the parts book lists an alluminium "c" pad. Is this pad a fixed thickness and do you use only one?
  9. I fit new trackrod ends to my TR4A, they were different to the old ones so it was hard to set the track somewhere near. I knew the track would be out so I booked it in for tracking. My journey of 5 miles to the garage was frightening hard to go over 30mph as the car was all over the place. Not surprising as the track was nearly 1/2" out.
  10. Thanks for the info Dave. I am just building up courage to start, I wish I was 20 again.
  11. Although it appears solid the rear spring crossmember on my 4A is twisting on the o/s so I intend to take the body off to investigate. As I have access to heavy lifting gear what would be the minimum, panel wise, I would need to remove before lifting. Also where on the body/tube is it safe to put straps?
  12. I just bought a replacement part for my tr3 from Rimmers and have sent it back it was ****..
  13. Mine is x USA but it has been in the UK since the 1990s. Attached are photos of the Apron before and after removal. Once removed it was clear the lower inner panel had been repaired several times. The stiffeners on either side are also rotten as is the o/s quarter panel. Luckily its all coming apart easily. Welding it back together may be a different story. Another surprise is the amount of filler the complete car appears to be coated with it, inside and out.
  14. I have started the restoration of my TR3 by removing the rear apron and lower inner panel. I bought a new/old stock stanpart apron from a member who had had it for years and a repro lower closing panel from a UK supplier. The repro panel does not fit but what confuses me when comparing a repro from a uk supplier and a photo of one from Bastuck, is that they are different in that the tabs that fold over for welding to the sides and boot floor face different ways. I attach photos, which is correct.
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