Lebro

That's how I drive home from the pub

I will also be there on the Friday. Bob

Mine is a 1st edition I think, as it has no indications otherwise. It contains many photos, two of them have the TR in them Bob.

Why not try to find a second hand one, The TR shop would probably have them, they have quite a large stock of S/H panels etc. Bob.

Just finished reading this book, while on holiday. Would love to find the time to retrace some of his journey around Britain In the TR of course ! Bob.

OK that is what I guessed was meant. I did use the extension kit on my installation because it was just a bit too cramped in the shell to get everything comfortably inside it. Downside is you need to a fair bit of re-routing of existing wiring. If it all fits inside your shell I would forget the rubber shield. Bob.

I did not think that the later (60000+) cars had the blanking plate ? Bob

Doughnuts ? do you mean the original dust shields? Bob.

Looks like a ball from the 3 point lift on a tractor Bob.

TR shop one was better, but still needed some "adjustment" Bob.

Just goes to show there is more than one way to skin a rabbit Bob.

The sort you have is designed to beep when a level of current is passed through it. I.E. the 21W indicator bulbs on the trailer. To use as a warning you would need to break your existing circuit to either front or rear indicators, on both sides, & insert the "beeper" in that circuit, then it will see current passing though it. Quite a lot of re-wiring IMO. Bob.

Why not just buy a 12Volt beeper with two wires, & connect across the indicator warning lamp. They are dirt cheap on Ebay etc. Bob. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/DC-3V-24V-Active-Sound-Alarm-4216-Piezo-Beeper-Buzzer-Sensor-Elements-Beep-Sound/303247677401?hash=item469af857d9:m:m0NDBB9zR-edOiBTkXHiy-Q For example

1960's to 1970's Triumph twins (motorbikes) had both pistons traveling up & down together, one on its compression stroke, the other on it exhaust / inlet stroke. difficult to balance which is why they always vibrated rather a lot. Bob.

Since we are all showing & telling how we compress our springs: I used a Stainless steel M12 length of studding (because I had it already) with 1 nut at one end, welded to the studding, & two nuts at the other end welded to each other to make a double length one (more threads in contact with studding). some suitable steel plates at either end, & jobs a goodn. To use I put a ring spanner on the double nut (at the lower end, & an air powered ratchet socket driver on the single nut. Bob.