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Lebro

TR Register Members
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About Lebro

  • Rank
    Joined 1971
  • Birthday 04/23/1950

Profile Information

  • Location
    Leatherhead, Surrey UK
  • Cars Owned:
    1956 TR3, 1998 Jeep Cherokee.

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  1. Not sure if the 4A choke is the same as TR3, but to release the choke you should have to twist the knob to release the ratchet system. The brass rod behind the knob should have sections cut into it, which a sprung loaded metal plate dips into to hold the choke out against the spring on the carbs. to release it the shaft is rotated, pushing the metal plate out of the way. These plates often go missing, meaning the choke wont stay pulled out. Bob
  2. Enjoy your trip Ian, & hope the TR behaves it's self ! Bob
  3. I have only ever heard of two types - TR2-3A type which is "long" & has a sprung steel "seal" under the top, or the TR4 onwards type which is shorter, & has a rubber seal at the top. Bob
  4. If you can feel movement on the pulley, but you cannot pull it off the shaft, then that would suggest that the pulley to shaft fit is fine, but the shaft bearings are loose Bob
  5. All the best wishes on your birthday Ian. Bob
  6. I have done a few, happy to look at yours, I would need the sender, & gauge. Dont mind which, but the new one would probably be better long term. Bob P.S. Maybe sent both, then I can choose the best option. Also before sending it's impotant to set the end stops (small tags on the sender body) such that the arm hits the end stops at the same time as hitting the bottom & top of the tank. I can only assume that the end stops are correct when calibrating.
  7. Try this. Connect it all up, including screwing the sender fully into the tank, with a wire (straightened out coat hanger with a hook on the end) push the float right down to the bottom of the tank. What does the gauge read. Now pull the float slowly up to the top, again - watch the gauge. if it progressivly rises towards full, then all is ok, but the gauge may need re-calibrating to the sender. Bob
  8. Sounds like the solenoid has stuck in the ON state. As Roger says the contact have probably welded themselves together. Either stip it down & see if you can clean it, or just buy a new one. Bob
  9. I am including with the puller the 1/8" dia hard steel pin to insert in the split pin hole, but I have not made any of the copper pads, because it seems the tool worked better without. Bob
  10. You say the gauge drops to 3/4 when you connect the sender body to the tank. How is the sender earthed before you do this ? Sounds to me that the tank is earthed properly, but the sender not so. How much fuel is actually in the tank ? If 3/4 full then all is well. Otherwise the gauge needs re-calibrating (easy to damage if you don't know how ) Bob
  11. Most likely layshaft needle bearings IMO much more prone to wear than the large in & out ball bearings. Bob
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