Lebro

Oh, that sort of Spitfire ! Strange it should be marked 250V AC Bob.

It was in "Alecs Inn" a while ago, & why not. Bob.

Yes, shame he did not make the ton. A great man who will be sadly missed. Bob.

Nice job Peter. My modification of substituting a short length of fuel pipe (of an appropriate diameter)for the cork is still working well after 7 years so will stick with it till it fails. Bob.

Two observations. The front edge of the sidescreen is not parallel to the stanchion, I think the rear of it needs to go up. The top of the sidescreen should guide it's self into the groove as you shut the door. It looks to me that the hood is too blame for the rear not lining up. Bob.

OK, I see which sort it is now. The holder allows for two wires to be soldered onto the top. the "hooks" are in pairs, strip the wire back approx 3 -4mm, guide it through the hooks till the stripped part is within the furthest hook, then squeeze the hook down, & solder the wire into it. then squeeze the second hook down to trap the insulated part of the wire. As there are two pairs of hooks you can daisy chain the two panel light holders the wire originating from the panel light switch, to the first of these, then the second, then on to the first of the large instruments & so on.

Agree with above if it was A tr2/3, but a tr4 should (I think) have the bimetalic strip type of gauge, powered from a voltage stabilizer, & the sender works the other way round. Low resistance at the full end, & high when empty. Bob

Should be a tad higher I would say. 90° plug caps would sort that out. Bob.

I made a small plate to fix under the dash, this holds a "cigar" lighter socket into which I can plug phone charger, sat nav power cable, air bed inflater, USB adapter etc. Bob.

+1 parallel to it, I found it advantageous to angle the sidscreen slightly in at the top to make sure it engages in the slot. The mounting arms are parallel to the screen stansions, so lowering them (moving the wedges up) will maintain the correct fit with the screen. Mine is a reasonably good fit (having spent hours on it) but To close the door I still have to lift the front outside flap a little for the sidescreen to slip under it. easily done from inside or outside the car. Bob.

I think you need to be a TRR member to access them. Bob.

Hard to see from that photo, but the 2 holders for the small instruments have only one connection, the earth gets made automatically as you push it into the steel cylinders (part of inner dash). The 2 holders for the warning lights have two connections each, For flasher warning 1 goes to the flasher unit, & the other goes to earth. For the ignition warning light one goes to switched ignition supply (white wire) the other goes to the voltage regulator "D" terminal, or if you have an alternator fitted, it goes to the field terminal on that. The five holders for the two big gauges are differ

I think making it more airtight would make things worse, unless you can put some dessicant in there, & then completely seal it. It would be better to give it more ventilation, Something I might try someday. Bob.

+2

Confused Richard, I thought I was the last person to setup your gauge / sender. If the gauge is dipping to empty or below, then either you have an intermittent short to earth on the wire between the sender & gauge, or the sender is internal shorting to earth (unlikely) or the gauge has an internal short on that connection to earth.(also unlikely), or the gauge earth connection is intermittent. The condensation is very common, mine does it, it's caused by dampness inside the coils, which vaporized when the coils are active, & heat up a little. Bob