Lebro

To my eyes the needles you are holding look too big to be layshaft ones, there is also a needle roller bearing between the input shaft, & the mainshaft , they could be from there. The marks on your spur gear look pretty standard, & should not cause a problem. & it is only used in reverse. Bob

Easy enough to make a pair up, I can do you a drawing if you like (of TR3 ones, which should be the same, ie eccentric hole.) Bob.

The photo IS of the instruments voltage stabilser. The I is for instruments, B is for battery, E is for earth. I think you need rather more than the supplied relay to do the job. by the way green / red wire is the connection to left indicator bulbs, Purple is a fused line (not passing through the ammeter) to the horns. I would not expect to be using that for hazards. Bob

I have a 6V version of this one from Peter at "dynamoregulatorconversions" in my Hillman, & have fitted a 12V one on a friends AC Greyhound. Both working well. Bob.

In the case of the ACR type, then yes, the bulb is part of the circuit to initialy energise the rotor, once it starts to generate its own power the alternator provides its own energising current, & that is when the bulb should go out, as it has 12V (nom) on both sides of it. if one (or more) of the smaller diodes which provide this energisation is blown, then the bulb will continue to energise the alternator, & so will remain alight. Richard. I would check the on-charge voltage to make sure it is not exceeding say 14.8V at highish revs on a charged battery, because if the regulator is damaged it could cook the battery. Bob.

It does sound to me like an internal alternator problem, either the regulator, or one or more of the diodes which feed the rotor. Cant see how anything else would leave the ign light on. Bob

Absolutely agree, in my case it was a new standard loom, but I added a 2nd heavy wire from the ACR type alternator (which conveniently has two large output connectors) up to the new junction (which is needed when the regulator is removed) of "charge output", ammeter input, & other loads input . Bob.

Been reluctant to join this thread for fear of upsetting anybody ! But I am of the opinion that the alternator conversion is a good idea, particularly if running an electric cooling fan. They take a lot of current, & usually do so when you are sitting in traffic. A dynamo at tickover is doing nothing, so you are relying on having a good reserve of charge in the battery. If, however, you no not run an electric fan, & do not have anything else which is "current hungry" like extra high wattage spotlamps etc, then a dynamo will usually be ok in conjunction with a good battery. This setup can be further improved by fitting LED bulbs all round. Getting my coat Bob

I'm sure the above will be just fine, except for the description - 40AH they mean 40 A AH is a term used to describe a battery's capacity Bob.

The orientation of the stator tube would normally be with the slot at 12:00, but it could be at 04:00, or 08:00 depending on where you attached the back plate onto the control head. (3 screws - 3 ways it could go on) Bob.

Yes it will fit - but, alternator pulleys are usualy smaller in diameter, allowing faster rotation of the alternator rotor. this has the advantage of maintaining charge at tickover. In the 1970's I fitted an alternator to my '3 when no narrow belt options were around. I made my own wide , but smaller diameter pulley on a lathe. Bob.

Very easy to fix Richard. Set steering straight ahead. Slacken off the three grub screws holding the head into the steering wheel. pull the whole assembly outwards until you can touch the thin disk (which was being clamped by the 3 screws). by rotating this disk, you move the center of self canceling around the wheel. You need to find the place where it does it equaly either side of center. Then, without moving it again push the assembly back into the steering wheel, & tighten up the three grub screws again. Bob.

Ok mystery solved then. The float is dropping too far, & the wiper is moving beyond the end of the resistance wire. There are matal tabs on the Base of the sender case which should limit the movement of the float rod. The lower limit tab needs bending to stop the wiper moving so far. After that the easy way to improve matters is to bend the float rod (wire) to push the float lower in the tank without upsetting the adjustment you just made. That will move the range of the fuel level downward. If the gauge does not then read full with a full tank then the other tab could be adjusted, or the gauge it's self can be adjusted (but this is not simple) Bob

I wrote this for TRaction a few months ago - may shed some light on your leaks. Final draft Article on Improving spin-on oil filter adaptors 240618.pdf Bob.

That is wrong - removing cable between gauge & sender should make gauge go to full (assuming you have the correct TR2 style gauge.) TR2 - TR3A gauges react instantly whereas TR4 on react slowly, they work on different principals, & the later type will read empty if wire removed. Bob.