Lebro

Ha ! older than me again have a great day. Bob

I suspect that part of the inside of the void was untouched during the rebuild, so it has taken 69 years to get that bad ! The boot floor was replaced, so there was opertunity to protect the lower part then, but I guess it was not done. It must be the same for all sidescreen's so would recommend making the two holes even if all seems well from the outside, they give you a chance to examine the inside, & to apply "something" to slow the rusting process without any external damage being done. Bob

I had noticed a thumb nail sized area of rust at the very bottom of the rear apron - LH corner. Decided to investigate. Discovered a fair bit of filler covering rusty metal (probably been like that since 2013 re-build) so I cut back till I got to good metal (1st photo) I then wondered what the other side was like, so after much measuring etc I cut a hole inside the spare wheel cavity in order to 1) inspect the insides with a boroscope, & 2) to eventual squirt some anti rust stuff in there. The holes were cut to match the size of rubber blind grommet I happened to have.

I discarded my back plates as they didn't seem to serve any purpose & were a bugger to fit. Bob

Well I did use the above 4 way fuse box, located where the voltage regulator normally goes. Running an alternator, so don't need it. Bob

Have a good one Dave. Bob

Tr3 one no good ! Needs to be TR4. Bob

No to conversion - not really feasable. I ended up buying several electric gauges from various places, & actualy ended up using a TR4 fuel gauge innards with the TR3 Temperature dial. They are all the same inside ! The fuel one was less troublesom to calibrate accurately. it is a very fiddly operation ! Bob

I changed my '3 to electric because with the capillery setup it was impossible to get properly behind the center dash to do any work because the capillery pipe could not be disconnected. I did however wish that the change was not detectable, so did the dial swap. Bob

I believe the needle points down on all the TR2-4 variants. The electrical ones all work the same, the later ones with the top of the needle shielded are actualy the same inside as the early ones. you can also fit the dail from a capillery type (TR2-3B) to any of the electrical ones (which is what I have done). The tricky bit is calibrating the gauge to match the sender. Electrical gauge with capillery dial Bob

Nearside of the block - behind, or very near to the ignition coil. Bob

Looks like TR4 gauges to me with individual bulbs Bob

Good job, well done Bob

If it ain't broke -------- Bob

Simply add a diode in the feed from ignition circuit, that will block any current from going back into that circuit. Bob