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OldBob

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  1. Thanks gents for all the comments, I did think Octane would be a casualty - albeit very minor. I'll pass the owner these points, seems he can choose what he wants to do without major consequenses in either direction. Cheers Bob
  2. Friend of mine has just acquired a UK TR6 pi car, running on standard the Lucas injection kit with a bosch type pump. The seller informed him that he always added a cup of 2 stroke oil to every tank full of fuel to "lube the injectors" he was told. This is approx a 200:1 mix. I've never personally heard of anyone doing this and frankly I wouldn't do it myself but thought I would raise the issue here to see if its a pracice others have followed rather than using the more common lead substitute offerings ? Thanks Bob
  3. More about this film is on another Forum thread in : Alecs Inn
  4. Hi Brian, have you checked the bows positions against a factory dimension at all? If the webbing is on in the incorrect position, the hood will not fit. Bob
  5. Just had the very same problem on a freshly reconditioned MU that was supplied to me by a well known company. Noticed it dripping - but not until the MU was bled and all 6 cyls running properly ! Under warranty so decided to remove it and refit old unit again. Reason was immediate failure of the diaphram inside for an unknown reason. The supplier gave a full refund - but what a waste of 3hrs of time. Bob
  6. Interesting thoughts thanks chaps - Nothing else was noticed when the replacement rod was fitted in terms of damage etc. We did 75 miles today to the East Region meeting and she ran like a dream - the only replacement part used for the repair was the new rod. Here she is at The Manger PH Suffolk meeting today. Pushrod failure is still / currently a mystery to me. Bob
  7. " When I start the 6 I have to have the ignition on .i.e. fuel pump running, for at least 3 mins prior to trying the starter - it then starts first time, no problem. - Why the need for the delay? " Hi Ernest, I've had this issue on my PI system. I found it was an injector that lost pressure when stopped, even though it was spraying well when running. To diagnose this fully take all 6 injectors out together, mount them through the top of a small 'ish cardboard box with side cut-out. Turn engine over and watch all 6 spray. Then turn off and watch for any that drip - they are the ones that are losing pressure. You may have to watch for a few minutes to spot the offending ones and you may have more than one doing this - even though they spray well. Swap them out for refurbed ones and hopefully your start time will be back to normal. Regards Bob
  8. The engine is an FRE with unknown mileage - but it won't be very high. Rod is from inlet valve on No3. I drove 2 miles home with this, I knew I was on 3 cyls but didn't know why, kept going as oil pressure and engine temp were normal. Engine sounded fine. Got the little bits out with a magnetic tip. Oil and filter change next. Counting myself lucky. Bob
  9. Dave, I had a very similar issue, I changed the one way valve on the MU and the issue has gone. Not an easy solution for your cyl no 2 but you could try the union on cyl 1 to see if this resolves that cylinder issue to start with. On my car I also noticed one of the injectors was dripping when the engine was turned off - so it was losing the pressure and fuel stored in the injector. Even though this injector was spraying well when running. Regards Bob
  10. Tom , worth checking the actual registration number in question with DVLA before you buy, not ALL numbers can be transferred. Bob
  11. Except Derek Robinson. AKA Red Robbo https://www.bbc.co.uk/news/uk-england-birmingham-41834559
  12. Hi Alec, If you PM me your details I'll happily forward them onto Bob. Cheers Bob (not the Bob)
  13. John, I don't know about 56 spoke wheels but if it helps to eliminate anything then TR wire wheels usually have either: 48 spokes (TR2) 60 spokes (TR4) or 72 spokes (TR6). Regards Bob
  14. Hi Rod, return PM sent thanks Bob
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