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OldBob

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About OldBob

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  • Cars Owned:
    TR2 TR5 TR6 TR7

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  1. Andy, the old Lucas style cooling coil collected heat from the pump and dumped it into the fuel ! Not a real benefit if hot fuel then causes the problem. I think your in tank pump comment is a lot more interesting - ever heard of anyone doing it? Bob
  2. New switch fitted and 100 miles done today with working brake lights
  3. They don't look the same shape as chrome headlamp rims either ..... Plus, the LH (as we look at the photo) spotlamp case looks to be black not chrome on PKV375 & 376 but car 68 seems to have 2 chrome spotlamps.
  4. Yes Rob, been trying to fathom it out today without sucess! And likewise, a dimmer lit bulb by the green wire made me think of something in the circuit but there isn't any relay (except the overdrive one). Maybe coming through more dash wiring is the reason - the engine wasn't running, I just had ign on. The car has had the mod you refer to btw where the centre and wing brake bulbs all illuminate making 3 in total. Never been an issue in years though. Waiting for new switch to arrive with fingers crossed! Bob
  5. The wiring colours to the switch are Black & Green+Red stripe Roger. -12v is on both wires (its a pos earth car) and the wiring is part of the replacement harness, making me a bit reluctant to unwire it. I guess back in the 80's this is how the replacement harness was supplied. Bob
  6. Test bulb tried Rob and both wires that go to the brake switch are definitely live - although one wire gives a brighter bulb than the other. By connecting both the wires together the brake lights work. Again I suspect the brake switch but until the replacement arrives I can't confirm. Still don't understand how two 12v wires touched together can complete the brake light circuit? Bob
  7. Many thanks Rob, I'll try out your suggestion tomorrow and let you know. Regards Bob
  8. The brake lights on my '55 TR2 have suddenly stopped working - everything else still working OK though. So I suspect the brake light pressure switch. But, checked the wiring to the switch and it doesn't match the standard wiring diagram I have. Mine is a 2 terminal switch which has 1 black wire and 1 Green with red stripe going to it. The odd thing is 12v is present in both wires when running. Anyone else have this arrangement? - or understand how the switch works with 2 live wires? The wiring harness was replaced 30 years ago BTW and everything was working fine
  9. Hi, can someone please tell me where I can find the full ticket price tariff for the show - I can only find the pre-book prices on the show website, nothing about 'on the day' costs. Thanks Bob
  10. OldBob

    Help

    Hi Grant, what a bummer, but if the engine was otherwise OK then avoid an exchange unit and get your own engine rebuilt & keep your original engine number. Good luck, Bob
  11. Thanks Peter, I never did trust that vile stuff!
  12. Presumably Alan you have read Rob's clarification regarding the varying resistances you have listed, and since you haven't challenged his post then I think we can safely say 1.5 Ohm and 3 Ohm are in fact the 'usual' resistances. Every day is a school day eh? Bob
  13. Alan, Resistance of a Ballast Coil is nominally 1.5 Ohm, same for the resistive feed wire I believe. Bob
  14. Kevin, Volvo are still worth listening to on this subject. Rearward facing seats gets the safety vote up to the age of 4 years. Under this age, a childs neck strength is the limiting factor. https://www.prnewswire.co.uk/news-releases/volvo-s-backwards-thinking-why-facing-rearwards-is-the-safest-way-of-travel-for-your-child-851268462.html Bob
  15. Just had a 'box for my TR2 with an A type OD fully rebuilt by Pete Cox and his son Tom. I'm certain there are plently of suitable oils out there but Pete recommended the Penrite GB30 / GB40 products so thats what I've gone with. Bob
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