Drewmotty

Interesting comparison but gives a bit of a false impression if your mind defaults to "crank position" like mine does. If you were to plot them against crank position ie move all the curves up so that the peak occurs at 32 degrees and ignore the bit below 800 rpm tickover speed then they are more comparable. I guess that the earlier cars are very retarded below tick over for easier starting, possibly by hand with a crank handle.

It’s not best practice to use tubes in low profile tyres even though 70 series isn’t low by today’s standards.; I’ve assumed that your wires aren’t the tubeless type. I stick with 165s even on my 5.5 rims to keep the handling predictable, the steering light(ish) and the stub axles intact.

Good news all round in my book.

I'd take the old one out and have it rebuilt by Precision Clutch: http://www.precisionclutch.co.uk/ Great service, good price and probably better than the new offerings.

The clutch in the overdrive?

Nice job. You’ll find that with the visors up you won’t get wet when moving in the rain. With the visors down you still don’t get wet but the inside of the backlight catches a few raindrops. :-)

Apeism Bob? :-)

Me too.....combined with a bit of heel and toe for hill starts.

A recent rebuild by a Devon Group member features a hydraulic hand brake with master cylinder in the line to the rear brakes and handle mounted on the transmission tunnel. No locking facility as it is just for hill starts and the original parking brake remains unaltered.

Some years ago I bought a long Bosch wiper blade and removed the rubber (silicone?) cut the rubber to length and crimped it into my original TR blades.......its still there and has raised the performance from "abysmal" to "ok"

I could but I’d rather push the column back and close up the gap between the boss and the dash.

I have a TR7 rack, knuckle and lower column fitted to my TR3 and the steering wheel needed pulling out an inch or so from the standard position. Shortening the column is on my list of jobs but I haven’t got around to it yet. Revington’s conversion uses a custom lower column with both knuckles integrated into the column. I’m not sure if that may be shorter than the TR7 assembly. The racks must be mounted in the same place as the position is dictated by the required steering geometry and space available, a couple of mm difference makes a huge difference to the bump steer.

“Sacrifices to the God of Speed” Bert Monroe

Cleaned up some “old car tools” which my neighbour gave me for my “old car”

Stand by for pedantic comment: 45s aren’t necessarily for bigger engines but are more suitable for larger cylinder displacements (TR6 has a larger engine but smaller cylinders than a TR4)