Drewmotty

Great news....another one on the road to being saved. I’m here to help too Iain.

Classic Le Mans 2018

Did you get them from Revington? Their instructions cover this issue. Essentially you have to relieve the base locally to match the profile of the tower top when adjusting to greater angles of negative camber. How much camber are you trying to achieve? TR4 doesn’t require as much as TR3.

I wouldn’t risk it. As Waldo said welding will compromise the material. A hub is the last place you want to compromise and good used front hubs are quite easy to find.

One of our local group has used a control box cover to hide the exposed motor on a later car. It looks like it was always there.

Welcome to the forum Dude. I guess that you don't realise that you've resurrected a post from over seven years ago

5 1/2” 72 spoke on mine with long studs and 6mm spacers. Negative camber on the front tucks them in a bit more than they would be with standard suspension.

Just thinking.....dangerous I know. Has anyone ever found a measurable difference in tdc between no1 and no 4 cylinders?

The TR5/early TR6 wheels were the weaker of the options. Later TR6 wheels without the hub cap studs are much stronger. Although they lack the flat spot for the stud I have seen them fitted wit hub caps. IMHO they will look great on your car.

Would a stainless trim covered in leather cloth look about right?

It’s quite an easy job to solder a M22 brass boss onto the bottom tank of the radiator. They are widely available.

Possible if the tyre fitter really did use Gaffer Tape. I recently came across a set which had been equipped with masking tape which had subsequently been painted over!!! The other culprit can be PVC tape which goes hard over time and breaks up especially when subjected to the heat generated by the tube interacting with the tyre when subjected to hard use. The 'masking tape' wheels also had the outer spokes taped over.....dodgy practice as the tyre bead should sit on the rim and into the outer spoke holes to help locate the tyre radially on the rim. A proper rim tape in the well and plenty of french chalk is the way to go, combined with quality tubes devoid of patches and tyres cleared for use with tubes by the manufacturers. All recently learned from a conversation with the nice people at MWS.........it all sounds reasonable to me.

1st gear in the later boxes is closer to second. ie you can go faster in 1st before grabbing 2nd but might struggle to start on a steep hill towing a caravan.

As Iain suggested I have little to no chance of fitting the hood with the frame fully erect as it looks pretty much like yours. Break the over centre link at each side and fit the hood along the windscreen and the back of the h frame leaving the last two fittings behind the doors on each side unattached. You can then reach in ( best done with one person each side) and push up the apex bow with one hand while pulling the over centre straight with the other hand. The frame should then pop into place under the hood. The windscreen flexes a bit as the tension comes on. The four remaining lift the dots can be fitted to complete the job.

Thats interesting data Iain. I wonder how close mine is to that........job for tomorrow :-)