Drewmotty

As it has the lug at the front to attach the bell-crank when using the early H6 (long) carbs it looks like it may be one of the SAH manifolds made for a TR3 and pre-empting the later TR4 long manifold used with Strombergs and HS6 SUs

Unfortunately I think that you may have only cleared the tap. The waterway can only be cleared by stripping the engine down.

Do you have a standard pulley? if you do the timing mark is a small hole in the rear flange which lines up with a pointer on the timing chain cover. The pulley can be fitted incorrectly so if you find the mark its best to check its accuracy before starting any set up work. Aftermarket pulleys tend not to have a mark as people fitting them are usually looking to improve performance and so want a more accurate mark than the factory provided and make their own.

I warm the pulley with a hot air gun or kettle of boiling water before fitting. It should slip on easily and then shrink a bit to form a snug fit on the shaft without picking up as it slides on. It's very easy to force the pulley onto the shaft less than square and broach out a couple of thou' from the pulley as you go making the pulley fit on the shaft a bit too loose. As mentioned above make sure that you use the correct thick washer under a new Nyloc nut. From a design point of view the alloy pulley on the steel shaft is sound.

You can remove the bump stops and brackets while the car is still on the ground before you Jack it up or take the weight with a jack under the hub or trunnion if you already have the wheels off.

The revised drop arms are well worth the change as are 3 degree castor trunnions together with upper wishbone assembly from a TR4.

I bet you put the jam on a scone before the cream too Bob

Someone not far from me changes his exhaust for track days.........he has to quieten it down to get through the noise test

We have a tame machinist in the Devon Group who can machine a groove in alloy rocker covers to take an o-ring seal.

I use Welseal between the cover and the gasket to keep the gasket captive and a light smear of grease between the gasket and head. Tighten the nuts only just enough to take up the slack and not over compress the gasket or deform the cover.

Thanks for the nod Pete.

Boot lid mounted spare wheel?

When the boot is closed there shouldn’t be any load on the hinges as the lid should seat on the rubber all round. It’s obviously not a good idea to open the lid with a loaded boot rack Broken hinges are often caused by fitting the hinges on the wrong sides. They then flex the deck and boot lid when it is opened.

I have changed to long studs with spacers on the front hubs of my 3. That way if I have a double puncture on a group tour I can scrounge a spare off anyone without having to have a knock on. You could do the same for your bolt on space saver.

One of the local group sent his back and paid the premium at Restorations.