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Drewmotty

TR Register Members
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About Drewmotty

  • Birthday 03/06/1955

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    AndrewAWillmott
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Profile Information

  • Location
    North Devon UK
  • Cars Owned:
    Post 60,000 TR3a, 1963 Surrey Top TR4, 1967 TR4a (long gone :-()

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  1. I screw them in as far as they’ll go and still allow full lock with the lock stop fitted. those spindles are well beyond their best.
  2. There’s a piece about converting a TR rev counter with Jaguar tachometer parts at the bottom of this issue of the Devon Group “In the Garage” technical newsletter: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2021/04/1827/In-The-Garage-april-2021
  3. Those outer bushes don't look bad although it is difficult to see with them full of grease. I'd clean them up to see if the bronze layer has worn through (if it has they're scrap) and try the new trunnion spindle in there with just some light oil to test them for size. If they're not sloppy I'd re use them. I wouldn't use anything other than the standard bushes in the lower inner as they exhibit far less flex than poly-bushes. The lower inners take the majority of the load and poly bushes let the assembly flex quite a bit especially under hard braking. I've used the nylon lower inners on
  4. Picnic meet at Tamar Lakes for the Devon Group, joined by three cars from Cornwall.
  5. 102 is the one. The standard inner bushes are fine.
  6. The outer bushes are pressed into the outer end of the arms and run on the spindle passing through the trunnion. Once the bushes have been replaced bolt the arms to the spring plate (on the bench rather than on the car) and run a reamer through one bush into the other to make sure that the bores line up. If they don’t lone up properly the bushes will be tight on the trunnion spindle.
  7. Take a look at the bushes in the arms once you've got it stripped down. Usually none of the bushes are any good so I'd replace them all. Its a good idea to press in the outer bushes and then ream through both bushes with the arms bolted to the spring plate. That ensures that they will be in line when the trunnion is assembled and wont bind on the spindle.
  8. The outer washers on the trunnion are a press fit on the spindle. A good whack on the inside of the arm with a copper or aluminium drift should free them off. Save them as new ones aren't the best.
  9. I've just zoomed in on the pics and they're 185/65 so a bit of both.
  10. Those tyres look a bit small. Wrong profile?
  11. That’s the ones. I’ve got them on my TR3 and my TR4.
  12. I think Deggers is about right. I pass that place regularly and sometimes stop for a nose. It looks like the axle, gearbox and engine are the only parts which might survive. The owner doesn’t want to part with anything from that site.
  13. Any spacer between the axle and the spring will lower the ride height by a similar amount. Bare in mind that old leaf springs can get a little tired. For good all round handling I recommend Revington's Red stripe front springs and 161 lb rear springs together with rear location washers, Super Pro isolators and shackle bushes. Standard ride height and comfortable.........we completed nearly 1000 miles around Wales last week without being shaken to death or grounding out despite some nasty sleeping policemen.
  14. Devon Group members visiting Conway during a tour around Wales.
  15. In my experience it’s quite normal to have to lap or machine a few thou off the cam bearing to get the correct end float. I would expect cam manufacturers to make the bearing area length a bit short so that we’re not faced with too much end float which would be difficult to resolve. The end float can be measured and sorted out on the bench prior to assembling to the engine. Just slip the front bearing over the cam and nip up the sprocket. You may need to start with a measured spacer behind the sprocket in order to give you some slack to measure.
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