Drewmotty

Hard Line: Screws are a bodge. Use a bolt with the correct length of plain shank. There are applications where screws are preferable but not many. Reality: Screws are ok for lightly stressed applications or holding thin components where the shank of a bolt would be minimal. Using screws saves carrying stock of all the different shank lengths.

I don’t have much trust in the captive nuts holding the seats on TRs and removed them when I had standard seats in my TR3 in favour of Nylocs and penny washers. Regardless of the seats ( Corbeau Classic in TR3 and MX5 in the TR4) I drill in the best position to suit the seat/seat positioning and use Nylocs with large washers under the floor to spread the load.

I had a couple of pressure switches fail in that position so changed to a mechanical switch on the pedal box. It has the advantage that the brake lights illuminate much sooner too.

Lots of racers don't use anti roll bars or sometimes just a rear to allow easy adjustment of the balance but they also tend to use much stiffer springs which may bring the roll rate close to that of a road car with softer springs and anti roll bars which will soak up the bumps better in a straight line. What size is your ARB Andy?

Pm sent

Here’s a bit about my rack and pinion conversion. You may glean some useful tips on checking bump steer etc. https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2019/11/1695/In-the-Garage-Winter-19

Me too :-)

I’d cut a matching hole for the drain. It can be useful.

I often drive by and see the sign. I’ll call in next time I have a chance.

3/8” BSPT. Tapered thread.

I’m with Roger. I always use a plain nut to get the taper seated before replacing it with the nyloc after learning the hard way many years ago. While the ball joint is disconnected replace it with one of Amsteer’s full articulation joints so that you won’t have to replace them again.

Are we talking at cross purposes here? The standard gasket which is a composite of a number of materials surely will not fare well with 89mm liners whereas the composite gaskets sold by Restorations are specifically designed for use with modified heads and big liners. The steel shim gaskets were a copy of the competition gasket supplied by Triumph and work well with careful assembly. I've used all three types and a solid copper gasket to good effect, although I am extra careful when using a steel shim or solid copper gasket which needs a good annealing prior to fitting. I favour

I stripped my engine right down and removed the liners to clean out the debris.

When I removed the wheel from my newly acquired TR4 I found a spanner still located on the bleed nipple. It had stayed in place for at least the 140 mile journey back to North Devon and possibly a lot longer.

I jack the front of the car up as high as I dare to fill the rad then lower it to the ground before running the engine with the cap removed. Once thermostat opens run it for another couple of minutes prior to topping up and fitting the cap. I then take it for a short run and let it cool before checking the level and topping it up again. As Roger said unscrew the block drain tap and sort it out on the bench. A bit of poking and maybe some running with a flushing agent generally gets some flow from the block drain port. If not either refit the tap and forget about it or if you’re bored and wa