Drewmotty

The outer wing flange needed to be relieved to clear my connections.

I soldered a 15 to 10mm plumbing connector to a brass plate and bonded it to the inner wing with Tigerseal. The drain hose connects to the plenum drain and exits down through the top of the sill and out under the car through the inner face.

Clamps to prevent sideways movement are usually only required when drop links with ball joints at both ends are used. If you don’t have ball jointed drop links a bit of sideways movement is needed when the suspension articulates.

Sounds like you are trying to erect the hood incorrectly. Mine would be 2” short if I left it unclipped. Erect the frame with the over centre section near the body mounting lowered. Fit the roof to the windscreen and tonneau deck leaving the first two studs behind the doors unclipped. Raise the frame into position by straightening the over centre section. Best done with two people reaching in from the side through the unclipped section. Once raised fit the remaining lift the dots.

I believe that Bob Lebroc uses a second TR3 light switch with wipers on the sidelight terminals and washers on the headlight terminals.

I replaced my rheostat with a push pull switch for the engine cooling fan override. The rheostat knob is retained so that all looks standard. I made a similar mod on my TR3 but in that case the switch operates the windscreen washer pump.

Chalk rubbed onto the file helps prevent pick up when filing soft materials.

Lots of people need one of these but don’t realise it. The lack of the bracket can often be spotted by looking for the neat crack right up the middle of the screen.

Go ahead Bob, and while you’re at it mount it on a flexible stalk with a magnetic mount as I will be doing for use in the engine bay.

I tested my woodworking skills yesterday making this fixture for soldering wires together :-)

There is a vertical slot in the B post about 10mm square. The slot was originally packed with a twisted rope/jute type material and the tabs bent back to hold it in place. The Furflex draught excluder was held in place by tacking it to the the inserted material.

Green LEDs here.Again from Classic Car LEDs. Rheostat is bypassed and switch position used for electric fan override.

My son recently had a satellite dish fitted at his house. The fitter bolted a permanent anchor point to the wall at ground level and attached the base of the ladder to it prior to starting work. His employers don’t allow the use of a ladder without an anchor even if footed by a second person.

No personal experience of these. It was a purchase which I was considering. A friend has a similar design which he swears by.

You don’t need to be precious about the number or thickness of the pads/spacers. It’s more important that what you use adds up to the correct thickness to fill the gap without straining anything or compromising the panel gaps.