Drewmotty

I get it here a bit cheaper: https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.ebay.co.uk%2Fulk%2Fitm%2F333277652390

I tend to be very sparing with sealant as I don’t like any excess circulating in the engine so the gaskets would have had the faces painted with a very thin coat when fitted and the thin gasket edges would have been left exposed to the coolant. I can only put the excessive corrosion down to the OAT antifreeze as I’ve stripped much older engines and not seen any evidence of figure of eight corrosion approaching this before or since.

I’ve used nothing else since I liberated a huge tin of life expired Welseal from an aircraft repair facility in the early 1980s.......and I’m still using it with a dash of acetone every now and again to thin it.

My steel figure of eight gaskets eaten by OAT antifreeze some years ago before I wised up.

That works for me

Some of this car's build history is documented in the Devon Group's "In The Garage" newsletter which can be found on the Register site in the Devon Group "Social Scene" list. First bit here: https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2016/11/0559/In-the-Garage-Issue-nr1 https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2017/10/0855/In-the-Garage-Autumn-Edition https://www.tr-register.co.uk/group/devon/social-report/2018/03/1000/In-the-Garage-Easter-2018

Looks like a good excuse to fit a (slightly) hotter cam if you haven’t already got one. The composite head gaskets are a good improvement on standard if you have a reworked head and in my experience very reliable. The Racetorations one is worth the extra few quid. They are expensive so if you are in the habit of removing the head regularly a solid copper one fitted with Welseal will work well and is reusable.

Randy Schultz’s TR3.....or what’s left of it http://www.britishv8.org/Articles/Triumph-TR3-Plus-4.htm

Without the garish paint it doesn't look far removed from the modified sidescreen cars which many of us drive.

The angle is fitted to the heater cover plate with three 5mm bolts and sits on the dash supports. With the heater oriented like this I can reach the vents when strapped in to 4 point belts as they fall just under the supports, the water connections are at the top so the matrix is always full of water, there’s a better chance of bleeding the air effectively and it gives more room behind the dashboard electrics. The fan wires exit the air box through a plain hole on these heaters so it’s worth drilling the hole out, fitting a grommet and shrink wrapping a stop on the wire inside the box to prevent strain on the fan interface.

Fitting this T7 Designs heater to the TR3 and writing about it for the Devon Group “In The Garage” newsletter.

I'm going through the electrics on my TR3a with a view to improving the wiring safety and reliability. I already have relays for the headlights and electric cooling fan and will be adding another to the bank fired from the ignition switch and feeding an auxiliary fuse box for heater fan, windscreen washers aux power outlet etc. The question is: should I run the HT coil feed from this circuit too? It would make life easy because I could use the existing LT connection to energise the relay; it sits very close to the relay bank location on the nearside inner wing and runs in the existing loom straight back to the switch.

Welseal used very sparingly and carefully. Globules of sealant circulating can block the small orifices in an overdrive and you can easily wreck it if the overdrive sticks in and the car is reversed. check the adaptor plate for flatness. If it is bent (very common) it can be replaced with a new design plate which is stronger than the oem part.

Wayne Scott TR7 and Phil Tucker TR3 at 26mins A few of the Devon Group spent the day spectating at Simms. Believe me when I say that it’s a lot steeper than it looks on screen. Its worth watching it all; some entrants seem to have gone out of their way to find the least suitable vehicles!

Is your rack conversion a Revington one with welded on brackets? If so you’ll need Spitfire track rod ends with 1/2” unf thread. The TR7 inner track rod has an M14 thread rolled onto a 1/2” rod. The rolling process grows the diameter out to the required 14mm. When the rods are shortened they aren’t big enough to accept the M14 thread so they are machined you the smaller 1/2” unf size. Part No GSJ158