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Everything posted by Drewmotty

  1. I’ve removed the internals from the control box and linked across the required terminals under the base. The empty box makes a great storage for spare bulbs, fuses and a relay all protected with bubble wrap.
  2. I used to walk past the Ede’s factory in StThomas Exeter four times a day on my way to school and back (home for lunch in those days) Erands used to include knocking on the big wooden door clutching a handful of coins to buy a jar for the pantry Im a “Barry Norman’s” convert now :-)
  3. Those clamps are supposed to stop the bar from sliding sideways when ball or rose jointed links are used. They aren’t required with rubber bonded links. I’d bin the lot.
  4. Are the needles mounted correctly in the slide with the bottom of the mounting spigot flush with the bottom of the slide and the jets properly centred?
  5. I recommend the standard nylon and steel bushes for the heavily loaded bottom inners. I’ve used them at the top too without any noticeable harshness. Plenty of copper grease on the pin/tube interface if the pin is good and the tube fits snugly. Otherwise clean it up and fit the tube with Loctite bearing fit. General purpose grease is fine between the nylon and steel. Use the Superpro poly sealing rings on all the bottom wishbone bushes.
  6. TR6 clamps with Superpro bushes fitted are pretty good and cheap. The chassis probably flexes more than the ARB mountings. I’ve seen ARBs badly worn when using the common poly pipe clamps supplied by most of the suppliers.
  7. I made camber blocks to offset the fulcrum mount 14mm and raise it 12mm. They were designed to be mounted with a reversed fulcrum and bring 1 deg +ve in to 1.75 deg -ve. On that basis the 9mm change gives around 2.75 deg change so 4.5 deg without raising the fulcrum may make a difference just less than half that.
  8. The bushes tend not to wear so any leakage is generally sorted by replacing the shaft. Remove a shaft and try an unworn section for size in the bushes.
  9. Would these do the job? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/12V-LED-SMD-License-Number-Plate-Light-Screw-Bolt-Bulbs-For-Car-Motorcycle-Set/333729657851?hash=item4db3d673fb:g:AiYAAOSwVJ9fXymt
  10. The toggles are easily extended on one side with a few spots of weld.
  11. I use the cone filters. The mounting to the carb is offset to the bottom so there is minimal clearance inside for any bell mouth.
  12. Drewmotty

    Door Cards

    Use oil tempered hardboard rather than the standard diy stuff.
  13. I use them for reversing lights too but have retained the orange lenses. I have clear lenses but didn’t fit them as I’ve found that the orange tinted reversing lights are plenty good enough for reversing.
  14. I use a single flasher unit as you describe but feed it from a permanent live. This means that the indicators will work with the ignition off but as I always use a hidden battery isolator when parked it is of little consequence.
  15. The Corbeau Classic seats are probably the issue being quite long in the base relative to a very snug sitting space. I’m only 5’ 8” and mine only clear the rear shelf by an inch in the TR3a.
  16. I’ve given up with locking wheel nuts. I think that any miscreant looking to steal wheels will have the kit to remove locking nuts without the key. These days the whole car is a more likely target than just the wheels.
  17. Happy birthday Ben. We’re all looking forward to welcoming you both to North Devon. Have you got a date fixed yet?
  18. Be aware that the bumper iron is attached to the chassis with slotted holes and the front valance could be damaged if it slips.
  19. You will need to ease back the headlining and all will become clear. I had to make new cage nuts for mine.
  20. I use Penrite GB40. Don't be tempted to use engine oil.
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