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About jerrytr5

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  • Location
    Chesham, Bucks, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    TR5, Hurricane Lightweight, Hurricane 1300, Jag XKR X100

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  1. Hi Jerry,

    Thank you so much for your offer of help with the TR4 screen.

    I'm really a bit of a muppet, put the ad in whilst in a tizz then realised I had to work away and then off on holiday. I am back and got 2 lads from the local garage to give me a hand today for "beer money", and hey presto - all in.

    Now the jobs done and decided to read the TR Forum and there you were.

    Thanks again for your interest in this.

    Take care - Rob.

  2. No, that's not right. Unlikely to be the rack. More likely the column sliding in the spline (even though it seems tight), or moving in the adjuster. Get someone to heave on the wheel while you inspect all the joints. In my case it was the top spline where the pinch bolt was not pinching enough - there is a design problem (although the 4A might be different here). You should not use any spacer washers. The inner column can be adjusted for length. Jerry
  3. 10% is about average I would guess. When my efi converted engine was set up on the rollers for the rev limiter, that was about 10% out. Jerry
  4. That seems to have everyone stumped Nick. I guess they are so simple that if the pulley is turning, then it must be pumping. You could take it off and check that the impellor is still attached and hasn't corroded away. But if the fan cuts in and the sensor is in the bottom of the rad, then clearly it's not cold. Jerry
  5. I've never had to bed in brakes over an extended period. I'd say your pads and/or discs are suspect material. Following the process here for 'Street Pad' should be perfectly adequate. https://www.hawkperformance.com/how-to Jerry
  6. Hi Rob, I'm just down the road in Chesham. Happy to pop over & give you a hand, but will have to be next week. The frame needs to be fitted to the car - presume it is? You need some nylon cord about 4mm dia, long enough to go all round the rubber, and some lubricant. IM me if I can help. Jerry
  7. Sounds like one of the inhibitor switches (on top of gearbox) stuck on. As you know, don't reverse the vehicle. You're going to have to remove the gearbox tunnel to get to the switches & see what's what. You'll also probably want to drain the gearbox oil and check the filter for foreign bodies. Not doing anything else today are you? Jerry
  8. I'll hang my hat on the 'More trouble than they're worth' peg as they are a pain in the neck when you want to remove or install the driveshaft, being too big to go through the trailing arm. Jerry
  9. Slotted / x drilled discs from Revington & Hawk HPS pads (Cambridge motorsport) with 5.1 fluid are a good combination. The pads work from cold but have a high temp range. You won't need any more on the road and unlikely to get fade on track days. Jerry
  10. In my experience the weld at the top of the pin is always broken so you need to get at the top of the diff mount either by removing the body or cutting an access through the floor. Sorry, that's just the way it is. Jerry
  11. As others have said, nothing wrong with the standard system as long as the cross shaft taper pin a) fits properly & b) is supplemented with a secondary bolt. Jerry
  12. Fit a rear anti-roll bar. Koni all round but measure up the rear conversion brackets to avoid IRS failure. You may need thicker front ARB to compensate for rear. Springs are a minefield. You will probably need to try several before you get right height and handling. With the ARB you can keep the spring rate soft to handle everyday obstacles like pot holes & ramps. Jerry
  13. Welcome to the Forum Martyn. First thing you need to do is join the TR Register. £400 is an awful lot for a saloon engine of unknown ancestry, even it was fully dressed in PI kit. What is wrong with your engine? Jerry
  14. There's a similar thread on the TR4A forum with pictures - you guys should get together !! Jerry
  15. I wouldn't say it was a mess. Nothing wrong with the nylon bushes and using plated bolts and copperslip along with a bit of maintenance usually resolves the corrosion issues. A stainless sleeve would be an improvement, but I don't know of any suppliers. As this thread identifies, the replacement poly bushes cause the suspension to lock up which can only contribute to something breaking or bending. I pointed this out to the suppliers several years ago when I returned them. Polybushes are fine almost everywhere else, just not in the trunnions where the original nylon is perfectly serviceable. The bolt should not move with the trunnion as that would cause wear and oval holes in the wishbone. The bolt clamps the wishbone ends together using the sleeve as a spacer making it all rigid. Jerry
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