Jump to content

jerrytr5

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    1,206
  • Joined

  • Last visited

About jerrytr5

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chesham, Bucks, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    TR5, TR7 Sprint, Hurricane Lightweight, Hurricane 1300, Jag XKR X100

Recent Profile Visitors

1,702 profile views
  1. You'd probably be better off ordering your parts and have them posted to a single location where you can pick them up in one go. I'm sure there would be members happy to act as a 'depot'. I'm in Buckinghamshire HP5 if that's any good. Jerry
  2. I was hoping someone else would chip in. My car has the GRP bumpers but they were fitted by a previous owner and origin unknown. To my eye the fit and finish will fool most people. Jerry
  3. Looks OK to me. Why do you think it might not be? Jerry
  4. Shortly after I acquired my TR7 Sprint the exhaust manifold started blowing. Fair enough, these things happen. On investigation a couple of threads in the head had stripped, so I helicoiled the lot, fitted studs, checked the manifold was flat (it wasn't) and refitted with a new gasket. Spent Sunday at Debden Sprint hooning round and on the way home, exhaust started blowing again at the manifold. Obviously I'd like to try and prevent this happening on a regular basis. The TR7 Sprint has an alloy head and the tubular exhaust is stainless steel. Original Dolly Sprints had cast mani
  5. Nice idea Pete, I'll add one to my shopping list. Perserverance with heat got me a couple of mm and then I could get a puller behind the oil thrower and got it moving. Just trashed the thrower in the process so not too bad. Thanks. Jerry
  6. 6 pot crankshaft front oil seal sleeve should just slide off the crankshaft along with the oil thrower and pulley, right? Seems to have welded itself on. I can't get a puller behind it. I've got a bit of movement after some heat. Any top tips for removal? Thinking of taking the timing chain off and getting a puller behind the lower pulley to get them all off together, but that might put a bit too much force on the teeth to be comfortable. Jerry
  7. Richard, they are indeed different things. It is however incorrect to say that 'most kit cars changed the chassis'. Early kits may have used Ford 10 or Austin 7 chassis whilst later the Triumph Herald & VW Beetle became very popular. It is only in comparitively modern times that new chassis have become the norm. So you are both right. Older kits using an original chassis are perfectly legal & covered by insurance. New kits with a new chassis are required to go through an SVA test. Major thread drift now, so let's end it there. Jerry
  8. GRP sheet is good for these & will outlast the car. Racetorations used to sell them, might be worth a call. You need to glue the fabric rather than staple it, & they might be marginally thicker than the fibre board. Jerry
  9. I disagree Richard. I'm with Charlie. The rules at the time (1980's) required that the chassis retained the VIN and registration. There was no ruling on bodywork. Most Hurricane's built in the period (the car, not the plane) are registered as Spitfire/GT6/Herald. I think it was only in that brief period when 'Q' plates were issued that things began to change. Bit of thread drift here! Jerry
  10. Well, black would normally be earth so if it goes to the relay and is not attached to the body then you have no circuit. Is there a lucar tag welded to the body nearby that has come adrift? Jerry
  11. Top Tip: keep a couple of the old ones. Really useful for odd jobs like radiator overflows and gearbox oil refillers. They can be be bent using a hot air gun and then hold their shape. Jerry
  12. Have you smoothed off the ridges where the shoes slide? As Roger says, move the whole cylinder/brake shoe assembly back & forth by hand to check. Jerry
  13. Thanks chaps, I'll take a look. Idea! Wonder if one could remove the vents and replace with a blanking plate and install an oil pressure guage. That would be far more useful. Jerry
  14. How do you turn off the face level vents in the middle of the dash? There is a constant blast of cold air through them. I have tried most combinations of the heater controls and nothing appears to close them off, so possibly something not connected or failed. If I knew which lever was meant to operate it I might have a clue as to where to look for a fault. Presume it would be in the handbook but I don't have one. Gaffer tape might be the best option at the moment. I will have to take the dash out at some stage as there is a fearsome rattle over 50mph. All that hard plastic seems to amplif
  15. Thanks for the tips Hamish. Most of it now sorted. I didn't realise that the helmet outer dimensions would be so much bigger than my track day helmet, so I'm taking the one I selected back to see if they are all the same, as it will make left handers a bit of a head-banging experience. Race suit delivered today, I can recommend AWS racewear if you need a made to measure suit. The website is basic, but get in touch and you will find them very helpful and reasonably priced. http://www.advanced-wear.co.uk/index.html Jerry
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.