jerrytr5

I know it's been a while, but other priorities got in the way. It still didn't blow the fuse again so I hunted down the coolant level control module which it turns out is a cylindrical gadget under the dash. Then I got lucky as it seems there have been previous issues here given the state of the multiplug (photo). As the car doesn't have a low coolant indicator fitted I chose to terminate all the wires neatly (two black wires together) and see how it goes. One of the green wires powers the choke warning light and as the switch isn't fitted either was also eliminated. I was going to look a

All very well chaps, but not within the regs for Tuned Roadgoing - not even sure a panhard rod would be. Think I'll stick to one thing at a time - it was just a thought. Cheers, Jerry

The advantage is Chris that they don't break and send you off into the scenery, or oncoming traffic. The small chassis cars have a much smaller diameter vertical link, which coupled with having a grease hole bored up the middle reduces their strength. Less of a problem on TR's due to the increased scantlings. I always fit them when I build a Hurricane. I spray mine with wd40 whenever I remember - which isn't often - they get along just fine. Jerry

Whilst the axle is out of the 7 Sprint to fit coil overs and an LSD, is there any value fitting a Watts linkage as used on the SD1? Presume the axle cover is identical (5 speed) and the arms may need shortening. As far as I can see from drawings the SD1 didn't have the top tie bars used on the 7 so would this be duplication of lateral control? Thought I'd remove the rear ARB too. The car is used in the roadsports category of our hillclimb championship. Jerry

Press & hold the on/off button will reset on some devices. Jerry

How does such a simple question morph into such a long thread ! You can put any type of antifreeze in, but if you change types it must be fully flushed. Mixing the types creates a jelly, not a coolant. I'm sure we'll have a chemist along in a minute to explain why. Jerry

Whatever was in it before, probably blue. Jerry

In the absence of purchasing driving talent, thinking it might help out of the hairpins You never know what might be lurking in a dark shed somewhere. Jerry

Just in case anyone has a LSD collecting dust, I need one. Jerry

Anyone have a newish RH window regulator and a couple of winder handles they need to dispose of for a TR7 hardtop ? XKC326 & CZA7109. Jerry

Correction, "Spirit of the road" went to Larry, not myself. A clerical error. Jerry

If replacing the cam, then yes new followers are required. You can safely replace the followers whilst keeping an old cam, but I'd replace them all, not just the damaged one. Jerry

Funnily enough, not really. There were a few extra bangs & rattles from the back end on my way to work one day. I think it must have sheared and then wedged itself into a new position. Having had TR's for 30 years at that point (2011) I had never heard of it as being a 'known' issue. If it is known, I'd say it must be pretty rare. No doubt the Nissan diff is a competent conversion Dave, but there is nothing wrong with the TR diff in general so a s/h mount will do for the next million miles I'm sure. Jerry

I don't think Roy is referring to chassis strengthening, but the diff front mounting flange cracking and tearing itself apart. See photo. Mine was too bad to repair so I bought a strengthened one from Revington - I don't have a photo though. Jerry

Set the fast idle screw to contact the cam as soon as you pull the choke, then you can run with a faster idle before the jet starts to move. Then push choke in when fully warm to reduce to normal tickover. Jerry