Jump to content

jerrytr5

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    829
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

6 Neutral

About jerrytr5

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    Chesham, Bucks, UK
  • Cars Owned:
    TR5, Hurricane Lightweight, Hurricane 1300, Jag XKR X100

Recent Profile Visitors

545 profile views
  1. What was in it before? I suggest you use Dot 5.1 Jerry
  2. I have an underslung rear ARB too and initially it did ground on fast bumpy roads. I added a 9mm spring spacer & welded on some skid plates to protect the mounting. It rarely touches now. You could consider cutting a slot in the chassis and mounting the ARB higher. Jerry
  3. jerrytr5

    TR5 or 250

    I've PM'd him so he might see that. Jerry
  4. jerrytr5

    Summer tyres

    Toyo CF2 suit the car, very good wet or dry. Jerry
  5. Can you get a half nut on between the stay and the bonnet to clamp the stud in place? Jerry
  6. I'm not saying it can't be done, but you'd need a substantial jig to hold it in place while wrestling with it - something like a car would be perfect. Fit the frame to the car first - you can adjust it later. Jerry
  7. I think it probably directs the water down the A post, otherwise it would drip on to your knee. Jerry
  8. Run some electrical wire under the screen rubber to hold it away from the frame so you can mask the rubber and get paint under the edge. When you remove the wire the rubber will cover the new painted edge. Otherwise it could look a bit of a mess. Jerry
  9. Hi Jerry,

    Thank you so much for your offer of help with the TR4 screen.

    I'm really a bit of a muppet, put the ad in whilst in a tizz then realised I had to work away and then off on holiday. I am back and got 2 lads from the local garage to give me a hand today for "beer money", and hey presto - all in.

    Now the jobs done and decided to read the TR Forum and there you were.

    Thanks again for your interest in this.

    Take care - Rob.

  10. No, that's not right. Unlikely to be the rack. More likely the column sliding in the spline (even though it seems tight), or moving in the adjuster. Get someone to heave on the wheel while you inspect all the joints. In my case it was the top spline where the pinch bolt was not pinching enough - there is a design problem (although the 4A might be different here). You should not use any spacer washers. The inner column can be adjusted for length. Jerry
  11. 10% is about average I would guess. When my efi converted engine was set up on the rollers for the rev limiter, that was about 10% out. Jerry
  12. That seems to have everyone stumped Nick. I guess they are so simple that if the pulley is turning, then it must be pumping. You could take it off and check that the impellor is still attached and hasn't corroded away. But if the fan cuts in and the sensor is in the bottom of the rad, then clearly it's not cold. Jerry
  13. I've never had to bed in brakes over an extended period. I'd say your pads and/or discs are suspect material. Following the process here for 'Street Pad' should be perfectly adequate. https://www.hawkperformance.com/how-to Jerry
  14. Hi Rob, I'm just down the road in Chesham. Happy to pop over & give you a hand, but will have to be next week. The frame needs to be fitted to the car - presume it is? You need some nylon cord about 4mm dia, long enough to go all round the rubber, and some lubricant. IM me if I can help. Jerry
  15. Sounds like one of the inhibitor switches (on top of gearbox) stuck on. As you know, don't reverse the vehicle. You're going to have to remove the gearbox tunnel to get to the switches & see what's what. You'll also probably want to drain the gearbox oil and check the filter for foreign bodies. Not doing anything else today are you? Jerry
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.