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Dale  Moore

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About Dale  Moore

  • Birthday 03/31/1952

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  • Location
    Hope, North Wales
  • Cars Owned:
    Tr 4a

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  1. Ditched the wire wheels a few months ago and with bolt on minitite replicas the car has never handled and driven so well I wish I'd done it years ago. I tried many times to balance the wires by so called experts but the vibrations at speed were always there The minilites are half the weight of the wires and the lower unsprung weight seems to make the car less skittish on varying road surfaces if you know what I mean. I thought long and hard on the width/ apect ratio with the concensus on this site favoring the 165/80. I felt that Id like to fill the rims a bit more with 5.5J so went for 185/6
  2. Think you'd go some to generate 400 psi or so by turning the gearbox input by hand, most seem to use a heavy duty hand drill (two hand variety) Have you checked the operating lever is set corectly? Slacken the clamp on the solenoid lever and operate the overdrive off the lever on the otherside. My overdrive seems to now work slightly more slugishly after changing from straight 30 engine oil to penrite 40 gear oil, but the gearbox is quieter after replacing all the bearings. Maybe the oil helps aswell. Dale
  3. In a word no. The overdrive needs separatings about 4 ins or so before its clear of the gearbox main shaft, and even if there was room, trying to line up the splines and fit the springs with th box horizontal never mine still in the confines of the car would be more than impossible It took me best part of a day to replace the overdrive onto my box the other week and I thought I was being careful lining it all up !! Before resigning to the fact of removal try a few other checks first Does the solenoid pull the operating lever fully There iss a lever on the oposite side of the box with the t
  4. Hi Clive Dont know if Im being over simplistic but wouldnt ordinary 12 point sockets (ring spanner style) fit these nuts Cheers Dale
  5. Should make no difference as the gauges are only a wound resistor, With both gauges failing I would susspect a problem with the voltage stabiliser. Just the heat of a resistor opening and closing a contact. Unless its been changed to a modern solid state type when it will make a difference as I would expect it would be polaritiy sensitive. Regards Dale PS Welcome to the forum
  6. Dale  Moore


    Hi Gary This topic was discussed a few weeks ago http://www.tr-register.co.uk/forums/index.php?showtopic=20990&view=findpost&p=148198&hl=vent&fromsearch=1 Regards Dale
  7. Hi Jana I would sugest that the offer from TR shop is about as good as it gets for replica minilites. Unless you are thinking of serious competition they are more that up to the job You will have to remove the splined adaptors, this leaves the standard disc wheel hub that will accept the 4 bolt minilites with the only requirement of the standard length wheel studs. (The studs are shorter, or ground down, when using splined hubs so the studs dont foul the back of the wire wheel) There are no additional flanges. The general consensus is 185 width on 5.5 j wheels with 65 or 70 profile to gi
  8. The hide end of the copper and hide hammer doesnt mark the spinners but generally needs a bigger smack to satisify myself that its tight enough. This agressive action tends after time, to goose the hide end up. So the next thing to happen is the steel part of the hammer catches the spinner. This is now worse than just using the copper end in the first place Dale
  9. Would agree with Ian, that its a good idea to replace the rubber doughnut couplings with tr6 steel ujs. Takes away the fear of ripping the coupling apart when mauling the steering wheel into a tight parking space Downside is the road surface is transmitted throught to the steering wheel, and any front wheel out of balance can appear more severe Dale
  10. Hi Reinaldo, Dont see a problem with the location, and a location that I have considered To reduce heat transfer when fitted to the normal location, I have longer bolts and a thick piece of nylon in between the coil and block acting as an insulator. Regards Dale
  11. Hi Nic There are varying suggestions on what correct oil pressure "should" be, but on a freshly rebuilt engine I would expect not to be below 30 psi at tick over at normal running temp Mine with 98000 under her bellt drops to 20 or so but still runs at 55 to 60 above 2000 revs The oil should have no sign of any metal contamination Can't think of whats brass in the engine though Regards Dale
  12. Adrian, If you can manage to thread the fan belt between the cross tube and the fan extension then I would think the engine is sitting too high there is normally less than 10mm or so gap (there is on the 4a and I think the other 4 cyls cars are the same Regards Dale
  13. Hi Phil Pipe in question is :- item 208606 PIPE, pump housing to bulkhead Available from Moss etc Regards Dale
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