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jerrytr5

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Everything posted by jerrytr5

  1. I don't believe the shims are fitted to equalise pads or anything of that nature. I have only come across them fitted where the caliper body itself is grazing the disc and the shim just centralises the caliper. Whether this is due to poor tolerance in the caliper, mounting bracket, disc or bearing I know not. Jerry
  2. Would seem to point to something not right with the new pump, but can't think what - not much to them really. Have you still got the old one to put back on?
  3. So what was it doing before the water pump change, and why did it need a water pump ? Jerry
  4. Sounds about right but it's long time since I did one. Don't fit the bottom stop until last as you'll need to drop the glass as far as possible to fit the weatherstrips. Jerry
  5. Have you tried one? As Cameron says, many of us find them too thin to be comfortable and can be slippery (= dangerous). Don't want to put you off, but you need to know. Jerry
  6. Harry, I have some 1 x 5/8 which could be filed down. I thought they were the wing fixing ones. Jerry
  7. Just to give an opposing view, I'm not sure that you can pull the inner entirely from the outer to properly clean and lubricate due to the end fittings - or am I mistaken? When I replaced mine with new, I found the operation of the handbrake much improved. Jerry
  8. Not sure about roof mastic - try this one https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Windscreen-Sealer-Window-Sealant-Black-310ml-car-van/371592868637?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Jerry
  9. 195 will fit but is probably less than desirable on a 5.5 rim. The 195/65 is a good match for rolling radius to keep speedo and gear accuracy and are also cheap because they are used on a lot of moderns. I like this size with Toyo's but I run on 6 inch rims. There will be someone along in a minute to recommend the original size (165 / 80 I think). Probably depends on your wallet and expected use. With wires you need to be aware which tyres are compatible with tubes (assuming you are not running tubeless wires). Jerry
  10. Well done all, now it's working as intended it makes more sense. Jerry
  11. I'm sure I have seen an instruction somewhere that with the window fully wound up the drivers (RHD) handle should be fitted at about 10 or 11 o'clock - this keeps it away from the drivers knee. But Tim's probably right. Jerry
  12. Was it working before? It could be that the inner has moved. Push the inner cable in a bit further. I presume you only jacked up one rear wheel and not both. Some gearbox covers have an access panel over the speedo drive. It's a lumpy sticky out bit on the right side towards the rear of the tunnel. Otherwise the tunnel has to come out. Search for 'speedo angle drive' as that may be a suspect. Jerry
  13. No way can you retain points along with Luminition optical switch and chopper. No physical room. Jerry
  14. Bad luck and hope you both make a good recovery. What exactly were you trying to do as I'm struggling to see how you managed that, and I would like to avoid making the same mistake. As Derek, said, puts one's own issues in perspective as like him I have had to cancel my own holiday with not much chance of the insurance kicking in as the Foreign Office still maintains it's safe to travel even though the receiving country (NZ) effectively bars entry by requiring 14 days self isolation. Jerry
  15. They would usually come as part of the surrey top, so I guess one of the hood manufacturers might be a best bet. But it's only a bit of knicker elastic - surely you can raid the wife's drawers - boom boom Jerry
  16. No, I meant that you have to sign in to use it, just as you do for Alec's Inn. Or is there a distinction between a member of the forum and a member of the club? Still baffled. Jerry
  17. But this is Members only as well as Alec's Inn. I'm perplexed why there are now two areas for essentially the same thing. Jerry
  18. No baffle plates other than the one that Waldi srtarted this thread about, which is why fitting wheelarch liners is so important. Even if you only intend to drive on dry days it is far better to prevent the build up of rubbish under the wings and forcing itself into all those small crevices. And you can dispense with the baffle plates. Jerry
  19. I've been using this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Trim-Fix-500ml-High-Temperature-Spray-Adhesive-Heat-Resistant-Glue-Van-Lining/112573949873?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=412978949959&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649 Just check that whichever product you use is compatible with the seat foam - you wouldn't want to melt the foam due to the solvents. Jerry
  20. jerrytr5

    Inlet ducting

    Have you tried car builder solutions or merlin motorsport? https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/search?adv=false&cid=0&mid=0&vid=0&q=duct&sid=false&isc=true&orderBy=0 Jerry
  21. Is it for a Mountney wheel, or another manufacturer? They ofton use similar number of bolts but different PCD's. Looks like MB029 - all TR 4-6 and Spitfires use the same spline format. Jerry
  22. Almost all of our TR4 - 6 windscreen frames (shared with Spitfire/GT6) are probably rusty internally. Those few bubbles at the bottom corners are just a hint of what's inside. I imagine that their construction makes it unlikely anyone would attempt to remanufacture them. This is a picture of the cross section showing the support tube and the corrosion inside. The tube extends to within about 125mm of the top of the frame ie: almost all the way. What is the most effective of way of halting this corrosion. I presume some sort of dipping process, but what would actually work? Discuss. Jerry
  23. To follow up: I got some rosewood veneer and used a high temp spray contact adhesive having recessed the alloy panels so that they were flush with the ply. Clamped it up using a dozen G cramps and left it for 24 hours. Lost count of coats of yacht varnish after the first ten. It's not perfect, but it'll do for £20 in materials. Time will tell if it lasts. Before and after pics below. Jerry
  24. Really John? Not sure I'd agree. They are generally better engineered and seem to last for hundreds of thousands of miles. As far as the MX5 box goes, it is a fine choice as a gearbox (I have one in one of my Hurricanes), but as others have said, perhaps not right for an overdrive TR and I wouldn't willing swap an overdrive box for non-overdrive. If it's a non-o/d car, then that's a different question. Jerry
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