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jerrytr5

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Everything posted by jerrytr5

  1. Less a matter of convention than how you want it to handle. I should fit the rear bar and find a local piece of tarmac to throw it around a few roundabouts and see how it handles. Your rear bar will induce oversteer so you will probably wish to fit the larger front arb to counteract. Not sure why Pete has linked to Spitfire bar as surely it must be too narrow, he must have a cunning plan. Jerry
  2. Does it matter if it moves? It will still be acting as a torsion bar and the length hasn't changed. What am I missing Hamish? Jerry
  3. Hi Neil, it's funny that installers generally say it only really functions efficiently on a well insulated new build with underfloor heating, and the suppliers tell you it works anywhere with anything. Jerry
  4. There is some interesting stuff on this thread. I looked at GSHP's a couple of years ago and was quoted £40k to install. Even with RHI payments I couldn't see how anyone could make economic sense of it particulary in a mid 19thC poorly insulated property using radiators. Anyone have any real-world examples of this actually working? Jerry
  5. 'bout time you did something useful Roger instead of messing about with electric windows I'm sure we can all find some aluminium or stainless for you to practice on. Jerry
  6. Yes, that is what I meant. Thanks. Jerry
  7. I don't think I noticed any difference, they are not especially hard. Jerry
  8. Take it apart and replace the shaft. The 'sticky' ones are probably where they have worn the shaft. It's almost worth considering the shaft as a consumable. If you get the reassembly wrong it will be obvious as the rockers won't touch the valve stem. Jerry
  9. Make sure the spacer tube is stainless steel. Many are not. https://www.superflex.co.uk/proddetail.php?prod=SF378-0077KSS Jerry
  10. Welcome to our forum Martin. Start with the basics. Is the new cam timed properly? Is the distributor drive & distributor correctly positioned and the plug leads in the correct order (sometimes incorrect in the workshop manual) ? 153624 Are the valves clearances correct? Is it the correct coil and is it wired the right way round? Is the fuel pump working and the carb jets set to a reasonable value? Check the static timing, got an idea it's around 11 BTDC but someone will correct me. If you haven't already, squirt some oil in the bores and turn it over on
  11. Like these Nigel? Adams & Page flogged 'em at a fiver each as I recall. Jerry
  12. Nice car Ian. The Mk 2 I had was one of my and my wife's favourite cars. Sadly written off by an Audi driver "sorry, nice little car - I didn't see it". Daylight driving lights might be worth considering. Swap the sidelights for a dual filament unit with LED on with the ignition perhaps - while you're doing the wiring. Jerry
  13. Fuel vaporisation, airlock near the carbs. Foreign body blocking fuel line in tank. Collapsed fuel pipe. Reverse switch detent not engaging? Jerry
  14. If you'll forgive me for clarifying, that may be true for TR (although it is quite rare for TR's to suffer this failure), but not for small chassis Triumphs. They can break at any point in their life and the Canley Classics conversion is highly recommended. After breaking a new GT6 one, I had the next set tuftrided. One of those also broke. Jerry
  15. Put the shims back in to push the lower wishbone out which will increase negative camber. You can't verify toe-in by sight I'm afraid. It needs to be measured. You'll also need to measure the rear geometry, or you will have a very ill-handling car indeed. Jerry
  16. Agree with comments on powder coat. My chassis was done and the coating started coming away in sheets after 5 or 6 years. I don't think it is flexible enough for a chassis. Doesn't galvanizing add an awful lot of weight ? Jerry
  17. Should be OK without sealant so personal preference. I use blue hylomar both sides as the sealing area is relatively small and the bolt spacing quite large. Make sure the housing face is flat, it tends not to be over time. Jerry
  18. Well I never. Can we get this saved as a 'sticky' please Mr Moderator ? Jerry
  19. How do you calibrate them Neil? I didn't know you could do that. Jerry
  20. Don't know where you got that idea, but it is nonsense. Jerry
  21. Coppaslip. At the risk of starting up a long discussion, presume you've done the usual cross shaft upgrades? Jerry
  22. Surely front & rear studs are the same design (possibly different length)? Perhaps post some pictures as previously suggested. There's not much that can go wrong with a front hub, so buying replacements seems a bit rash - you might end up with the same issue. Jerry
  23. I ran mine up the road without the bonnet on with open inlets to test something once. The intake roar is just unbelievable and will give you goosebumps. It's worth doing just for the hell of it. John, best not try that with the Vitesse. Jerry
  24. Very fine pitch. M10 x 1.0 is my best estimate. Jerry
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