mleadbeater

Sorry Gareth, I still can’t fully understand your question, the original split cable wont push the new valve closed, a spring to do so would be required, but the double cable would work, but with out independent control of either mixture or idle. Jerry, I bought a water valve for washers etc, its a diaphragm operation so it won’t work under negative pressure, unless I'm missing something? cheers Mike

Gareth, the original system on PI cars has a cable which splits into two, one to the metering unit, the other to the idle cam, which both enriched the fuel and opens the throttle, so if you have an original system this does as you ask. My car with modified throttle linkage only had the enrichment cable, which is why I did this mod. You may need to adjust your throttle cam setting screw to get a faster idle, this should be in your manual. I still have the original split cable, but the throttle part is defunct, and not a solid wire so it won’t push the valve closed, I would

Thanks, I was hoping to make it operate electrically, but couldn’t find a large enough solenoid valve suitable for low vacuum, but the cable operation gives good control and works fine. The valve is just a standard water heater valve, from ebay, see photo, you also need a solid inner cable for full push/pull control . heres the ebay link: 19mm (3/4") Heater Control Valve Push to Close Taxi TX1,Kit Car, Classic Car I've set the existing air valve to well open, having set the butterflies for even airflow using the throttle linkage arms, giving from around 1200 rpm open to 800 ful

Hi, as my ‘6 doesn’t have the original throttle linkage, I am unable to set a fast idle during warm up. To solve this I have fitted a valve connected to the air slow running valve, with a cable on the dash to allow me to set the idle speed from the drivers seat as the engine warms up. The valve is a heater control valve, which works well to control the air intake. Maybe of interest, Mike

Interesting video, if a little brief on the actual workings and adjustments to the PI unit. I am still struggling with why his car revs cleanly, without bogging, when he blipped the throttle, and surprised that weakening the mixture didn’t introduce bogging. Advice from the forum suggests running rich is the cure for bogging, on my ‘6 the large spring is fully screwed down, yet still it bogs on blipping initial acceleration. Mike

Malbaby can you give use some more details as to why? cheers Mike

A few years ago I fitted electric power steering to my ‘82 BMW, using a Corsa column and drive , bought on ebay for around £50. If you have good engineering skills and some machine tools, this can be a challenging and enjoyable project. I believe there are new options for speed variable sensing, use gps. The whole job only cost around 80 quid or so, it transformed the car, making it a pleasure to drive. Photo shows the project in process, more info available if needed. cheers Mike