Jump to content

mleadbeater

Registered User
  • Content Count

    166
  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

2 Neutral

Recent Profile Visitors

238 profile views
  1. Hi, I am attending the spares day on Sunday, and would like to clearout my remaining TR2 spares, all open to very modest offers: Non OD gearbox, good gears Half shaft Door top trims trims, original, plus flbreglass elbow trims Rocker cover and vent/filler 3 deg trunions, new Starter, needs recon Dynmo, working 3 Overriders, used need rechrome Rear axle lowering kit Door latches, used, plus new strikers. See attached photos. If interested please PM me or text on 07961932463, can deliver to spares day FOC. Cheers Mike
  2. I have a tr4 Girling axle half shaft which I wish to dispose of, looks in good nick with slight surface rust. If you can use it please send me a pm, l do not want much for it. Cheers Mike
  3. Air leaks through worn seals usually the cause, blocked vent hole, or too high paint viscosity. Suggest you go for a gravity feed gun as they are much less prone to feed problems, and less sensitive to paint viscosity variations. I bought a low cost Bergen gun on eBay, about £30 if I remember correctly, for the money it's giving good results, you pays yer money..... Mike
  4. I have done this several times, the trick is to make an alignment jig, two concentric discs, to align the clutch with the flywheel centre. Then drill through dowel holes and tap bolt holes. Mike
  5. What is also important regarding clutch fitting is the height of the clutch release thrust pad relative to the position of the release bearing in the bellhousing. to get correct clutch engagement and release, the bearing should engage with the thrust pad just before the 90 degree position of the yolk's arc of travel, if the thrust pad is too low the clutch may not release, if too high the clutch may be partially engaged and possibly slip. As the clutch cover is tightened the thrust pad is raised as the springs compress. On older coil Spring clutches this can be adjusted by moving the fulcrum stops on the release arms, with diagram clutches this is usually not possible, so the only way to alter this is by fitting a thicker friction plate, or, conversely machining the face of the flywheel. Suggest you check this either before you fit the gearbox, by measurement, or on the bench with engine and box engaged. Hope this makes sense and is helpful, I know from bitter experience the frustration of having to remove the gearbox to adjust an non-operational clutch. Mike
  6. 4WIW, I use vacuum to form the veneer over the wood, this will form curves as well as flat panels. The loosely glued workpiece is put in a strong plastic bag, which is sealed and evacuated through a cycle inner tube valve using a vacuum pump. As I guess few will have a vacuum pump, maybe a connection to an engine inlet manifold will do. I use pva glue thinly applied, though this takes a long time to dry so needs the vacuum applying for several hours, maybe other water based glues would be better if using a car engine. More details , if anyone is interested , can be supplied. Hope this of interest Mike
  7. gas every time. Main thing to look for is plenty, say 6, of power settings. 130 amps usually plenty for car stuff, fan cooled desirable, don't use large wire spools as too much for lighter duty units, and get a self darkening visor, and some gauntlets. Co2 fine for mild steel, pub bottles ok if you know a friendly landlord. Argon good for mild and stainless, also ally if you get proficient. Plenty of u tube info to help you get going. Good luck Mike
  8. here's my two penarth' having had face-fulls of goo in the past from bursting cans or backfiring schutz guns, I made my own goo injection system as follows: obtain some 6 mm od nylon pneumatic tubing, say 3 m should be plenty make a spray nozzle by taking a countersunk headed self tapper, sized to be a good screw fit in the tube, and grind the threads to a triangular cross section leaving just sufficient thread at the peak of each corner to still screw in to the tube, the tube needs to be cut nice and square connect tube using compression fittings, as used for pneumatics, to the outlet of an old car filter unit ( i.e. as used with paper filters) , inside the filter head arrange a dip-pipe to go from near the canister base to the outlet, and connect the filter inlet to your air compressor, with an air valve in the line to shut off the air. The air pressurises the top of the goo, forcing it up the dip-pipe and along the nylon tube test the spray by adjusting the self tapper and air pressure, spraying inside an empty clear plastic ( pop ) bottle until a good circular pattern is achieved. Warm the goo ( wax oil, schutz, dinitrol or whatever you favour) by standing the can in hot water, also keep the filter in hot water. push tube into cavity to be sprayed and turn on air, withdrawing tube as you go. Works well for me, have fun and wear old clothes, goggles, an rubber gloves hope this makes sense Mike
  9. Thanks Ian, usefull information, do you know if a replacement convex glass will fit a flat-glass speedo? The one currectly for sale has 1152. Any speedo however inaccurate is better than none, I can use my satnav to view actual speeds. Cheers Mike
  10. FWIW, 5/16" Whitworth thread is essentially the same as UNC, and good hardware shops (or online suppliers) should stock threaded rod in this size at minimal cost, this is what I have used for years. Never had any problems with engine stands on many blocks, including Jaguar, Porsche, MG, Riley, and TR of course. Remember when tightening some bolts on the block you may put extra, and at some leverage, load on the mounting bolts, you may consider propping the block whilst you do so . Mike
  11. HI, I am in need of a TR2 speedometer, if anyone has a spare one to sell can you please let me know. Can someone please let me know if a speedo from a TR4 will suffice? Many thanks Mike
  12. I always bleed using my air compressor set to around five psi, through a rubber bung which is a good fit onto the reservoir top. Make sure the master cylinder is free to extend fully, ie the pedal pushrod screw is not too far out, otherwise the piston will not clear the intake port on the piston cylinder, stopping the intake of fresh fluid. Mike
  13. IMHU the original starter is barely up to the job, suggest you dump it, take the plunge and fit a modern high-torque unit. Mike
  14. I am trying to fit new seat covers, suplied by Moss, to new seat frames, supplied by Rimmers, and am finding the backrest covers are far too wide at the 10 past 10 o'clock positions. There is around 1" spare material around the edge of the back at both sides ( dare I call them 'love-handles" ) I have fitted new horsehair matting, with 2" folded over and glued as the books suggest, and have tried to pad out the empty edges with foam and wadding, but am not getting a good fit without wrinkles and a straight seam. The last TR2 I had, with original seats, had the same problem with some used covers I was given, so I ended up making my own covers from new hide, which I made to fit well. Before I am forced to partially dismantle the new covers and re-sew the piping, I wondered if there are two shapes of seat backrest?, maybe have the wrong covers for the seat frames. or do others experience this problem when they re-trim their TR2 seatbacks?, if so how have you cured this misfitting? Cheers Mike
  15. +1 to that, and a good stock of used parts at sensible prices too, great to deal with. Mike
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.