Jump to content

Malbaby

Registered User
  • Content Count

    373
  • Joined

  • Last visited

1 Follower

Profile Information

  • Location
    Australia

Recent Profile Visitors

951 profile views
  1. There must be a correct repair available to the pipe. Perhaps an additional mount or alterations to the existing. I would take the car back to the exhaust shop for further investigation.
  2. Hi John, These are a few of the modifications that I have done to the body during the restoration of my 4A, that will have a Triumph 6cyl fitted. pic 1...fabricated and plug welded infill panels between the inner wings and the front valance...they made a tremendous difference to the rigidity of the front valance. pic 2...deleted the top holes in the headlight [upper valence] panel and modified the outside curve to fit the front wing better. pic 3...modified the curved shape of the front wing to one piece, instead of having the small seperate piece bolt in...this was only do
  3. John....Have the sills been replaced recently? One of a restorer's problem is that the panel gaps of the cars have probably changed over the years since they left the factory. Even from the factory the gaps may have not been perfect. In this case my preference would be to temp fit the front and rear wings and doors starting from the rear, as the tail light fitment, hence the rear wing, is the only FIXED panel. Even if you welded in the front headlight panel and lower valance to their original? spots, there is no guarantee that the front wings will fit perfectly together with nic
  4. John.....Looks good so far....replace the rhs front body mount...and the left one repaired. First of all, the body should be correctly bolted to the chassis [assuming it is straight and not twisted] prior to any panel replacement, preferable have the chassis perfectly level, otherwise mal alignment of panels will occur. All replacement panels are welded on...This needs to be done in the correct sequence. Tack weld, or similar, the the headlight panel to the inner wings. The bonnet is now temporarily fitted to ensure the gaps between the bonnet edges and the inner wings are
  5. I would buy a new non alloy radiator.
  6. David...I think it important to ascertain the temp range of your current thermo switch. I prefer to fit the switch in the top tank [hottest] as the water temp has already cooled when it reaches the bottom tank....therefore a much lower temp range switch is required if fitted to bottom tank.
  7. Gary...such a very nice car. Personally, I would pull the engine and rebuild it with more horsepower.
  8. Sorry to bring this up again Guys.....my latest query on this subject was initiated by seeing a post by a guy that had just bought a TR6 that had a P/S rack conversion. Unfortunately, he did not know what car the rack was sourced from. Apparently the car steers well. I am currently building an EPAS steering column unit for my TR4A [6 cyl] project using an MGF column, and would like to find a P/S rack that I can fit to my green TR4.
  9. Sorry, I should have noted for TR4A. Are Dolomite racks the same width?
  10. Hi Guys....am I correct in assuming that the Stag and Sedan racks are too wide to be used successfully in TR4 series. Any other racks that will mount in a similar fashion to the TR4.
  11. "So in effect prepping (possibly to the metal) and painting." That is a big $ decision in itself, and an immense amount of work if a bare metal resto. Tom Boyd's comments are valid. How good or bad is your existing paint and panel fitments.....If reasonable, then your cheapest/easiest option would be a "closed door" respray.
  12. I cannot comment on prices in the UK, but what you are intending is virtually a complete strip down of the body, which is a lot of work in itself, so I am not surprised that there are variety of quote prices.. Prices will depend on who is dismantling and replacing the body panels. The body shop or yourself. Can your existing colour be matched exactly. Are you intending to strip the doors completely etc. Then there is the question on how good are your current panel gaps, any underlying rust, panel alignment, any need to strip some of the panels to bare metal, etc. Botto
  13. Steve....450 lb springs are way over standard...are you sure about the rating...standard are about 320 lb and give a "firm" ride. At 450, your car would ride like a truck.
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.