Malbaby

Where to buy a quality item?

Hi John. As you know, the rack position is critical for the bump steer effect....Particularly height. When you changed to horizontal mount, presume you fitted the rack in the "factory" position? The overall length with tie rods is not your main criteria... It is the length of the rack itself.

Thanks guys...any definitive answer to what year this engine block was manufactured?

Thanks...that website notes the CR engine starting at #1 July 1968 to Oct 1969 for the final engine....could that be correct?

John....please advise what year your engine is.

Hi Guys...I have engine block # CR5933HE, which is an injected engine. Cannot find a reference to the exact year of manufacture.....1976??

The problem may not be with the gasket or the bolt torque. Since the block has been decked, by how much?.... I would recommend checking the combustion chamber volume to ascertain the current compression ratio....Higher the compression, higher the gasket failure rate. Confirm the piston tops do not protrude above the block surface. As already mentioned, check the cyl head surface for absolute flatness.

I also fitted a Spal unit.

Thanks Stuart....that is very scientific

What is the correct size tucker style rivet clips. I have seen some for sale stating 7.9mm for a 7mm gap......Seller says they clip on, rather than slide...0.9mm does not seem to be enough width?? Or, has anyone used an alternative method of fixing?

With the TR5/250, you are paying a lot extra due to their rarity, not for the quality of the car itself.

In your situation, you probably do not need the more expensive adjustable shocks.

My only comment is that the slip join at the upper outer aluminium column is not very strong and easily damaged/malaligned if force is applied between the two...eg..trying to remove the upper bush by having the column upside down and trying to remove it via force from a drift or similar....You correctly aborted your first attempt.

IMHO...The cracking occurred because the original spotwelds were now insufficient to hold the pod securely....I would concentrate on additional welding to strengthen the pod to apron fitment, as per "Adrian's" car. I always took leading to be a means of filling rather than a structural element.....Perhaps I am wrong....Stuart will have a definitive answer.

Quicker to make your own.....fine threaded rod, some steel plate, nuts and large washers.