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  1. As above, if the ride suits you. I would not use 390lb springs.
  2. I do not think the 1" difference will make the "steering easier" A lot of guys deliberately change to aftermarket steering wheels because of better looks and comfort. Changing the angle is problematic. As you know, there is in/out adjustment of the column, but that affects the "collapsible" length.
  3. A panel shop can fix this problem for you.
  4. I am sure there would be a lot of interest in such a comparatively rare car, price may preclude a lot of potential buyers.
  5. I currently have 195.65.15, but wish to lighten the steering effort. Sizes near to factory diameter size are 175.70.15....not available here in Australia. 185.70.15...only available in very expensive brands. Original sized 165.80.15 are available, but I am concerned with the not ideal fitting on the 5.5" rims....anyone fitted the same? Comments welcomed.
  6. Is the "powerspark" unit manufactured in the UK or elsewhere?
  7. Are you saying that with the door striker in the outboard position, the door will latch but not "lock"
  8. Progress so far....I did consider the epoxy adhesives and the heat implications. Decided on the convenient MIG welding. Still have to trim the edges, clean plug welds and do a couple of short linear welds on the inside. And yes, I checked the fender/wing/guard alignments with the bonnet a number of times during the process.
  9. Door adjustment is usually achieved via bolts through the A pillar. Seems that the PO has attempted same by shimming/washers on the lower door hinge due to the limited access on an assembled car. Also, door gaps were not attended to correctly before the repaint of the car. [could also be a problem with rear chassis].....[What happens to the rear/top door gaps when your car is lifted off the ground with the rear suspended]. On one of the pics the door/sill gap looks to be narrow at the front. We need a pic of the door/sill gap. I would first try closing the gap at the bottom/fro
  10. Thanks for the measurements. That confirms my thoughts. The project car bonnet had been damaged slightly, hence looking for the theoretically correct profile. I am about to weld 1.9mm metal strips to the sides and the rear of the bonnet/hood for reinforcement, plus an extra triangular shape piece as in pic, and maybe an extra rib from front to back on the carb/bulge side.
  11. How much of the top surface of the outside edge is perfectly straight.
  12. As a matter of interest did you paint the underside of the floors etc body colour.
  13. Initially, I would check the other brackets....If they are OK, I would cut the 2 threads off the TR6 bracket.... Drill 2 new ones to match existing and weld in 2 new bolts/threads .
  14. IMHO... one problem is the design of the top at the front/outside edge. It does not come down enough, similar to the Honeybourne top. Assuming the angle of the "B" post of the backlight is correct, the glass that you have fitted must be incorrect. Your glass runs fairly parallel to the B post, so unlikely to be a regulator problem. Have you considered having glass cut to suit the opening, as I do not think that off the shelf glass will fit nicely.
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