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About brian-nz

  • Birthday 10/07/1957

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    New Zealand

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  1. Hi All Can anyone supply a photo of the inner side of the sidescreen. Is there a bulbous piece at the lower front that butts up against the scuttle to stop water coming through that area. I can't find any decent pictures showing this. Or is there something others have done to eliminate this Thanks Brian
  2. I had a similar problem about 5 years ago. The horn would sound when going over a bump in the road, which was quite often. Took the fuse out for the trip home. I found it to be the metal ring on the slip ring inside the steering column had come adrift causing it to 'short' out and set off the horn. A couple of drops of super glue and no problems since. Bit of an effort to get at it but did not need to disassemble the whole control unit (which I have done and agree with others comments). Might be easier to fix than first thought. Brian
  3. Hi John Yes I have always fitted my old hood from the back first. I tried the new one both ways. Either way the seams do not line up with the hood bows. I Have also tried relaxing the bows as suggested in the video but when putting back up it creates a huge amount of pressure on the windscreen frame. I know the hood needs to be a tight fit but this is beyond tight. Given that the seams don't line up I believe that the hood has not been made correctly. It will be interesting to see where Johns friend one came from. Perhaps a bad batch?. I am working with TRF who in turn have gone back to Robbins. Waiting for there conclusion. Brian
  4. Hi Bob and Iain Yes I have checked the webbing and bow positions -TRF sent me that diagram after I indicated that there was a problem. A friend who has a TR2 lent be his set of bows (he currently has his hardtop on) and his soft top. We (upholsterer and I) checked friends bows against mine and they are close to identical. We did this to eliminate the bows. Next we fitted my friends top and although it is a couple of years old it fitted like a glove. The new hood - when fitting from the back and trying to attach to the windscreen will not go and the bow seams are way off. Attaching to windscreen first the first two seams are closer but the back seam is off and even an extreme amount of pulling will not attach to the back pegs. Measuring friends hood and new one there is an obvious difference. Some difference can be attributed to friends one being weathered but the new one doesn't come close. Attached is a photo of the back -this is with stretching as far as it will go.
  5. John Can I ask where the hood came from. I am having the same issues. Mine is a Robbins Hood which I purchased via The Roadster Factory. It is about an inch to small (measuring from windscreen to back pegs). No amount of warming /stretching will get it close and the seams do not line up with the bows. I am using a professional upholsterer to fit mine and he has had 40 years experience in the trade. Brian
  6. Thanks guys for your comments. Initially I had tried to glue in the pegs and used JB Weld but this did not work when under some pressure. Next thought as previously suggested was to braze holes and rechrome but this is a very expensive excerise over here. I have decided to replace the existing toughened glass screen with a laminated one. The old one is quite scratched and pitted. I have also decided to get a professional to put the glass in (its being done under insurance). When I restored the car about 5 years ago the windscreen person had trouble with the rubber and in the end used sealant. Has worked since then with no problems. The pegs shouldn't be an issue as I could feel where the glass was through the holes before I decided to remove the screen. The screen came out of the channel so in theory should go back in. Us Kiwis have an old saying -Anything can be fixed using a piece of number 8 wire (used for farm fences) so I am sure this issue can be overcome Cheers Brian
  7. Hi All An update on progress on my windscreen issue. I have decided to use the tenax pegs designed for the Aluminium frame. Here are a few photos of how it turned out. Thanks for everyones help Brian
  8. Hi All I have managed to drill out the rivets with the screen in situ (and without cracking). About 4 of the holes have thread visible and may just need retaping. The others I will need to plug up with JB Weld or similar as Rod suggests. I contacted Loctite as I had seen in a previous thread that they produced a thread repair kit. Unfortunately they do not bring into New Zealand any longer. They have suggested plugging the hole with Epoxy Weld, spraying the peg with silicone and inserting in the Epoxy and let set. Basically the same a Thread repair. Can anyone advise what the tap thread /tap I need to use to spruce up the "good" threads - ba x 3/16" seems to ring a bell. Or is there something similar Cheers Brian
  9. Hi Tony Yes photos and any info would be good. I too am not to bothered about originality as I want a driver car. Rod screens over here are like hens teeth so finding a replacement would be almost impossible - to fill and drill would be expensive too Regards Brian
  10. Hi I know this subject has been covered a number of times however none seem to cover my issue. A previous owner had replaced the windscreen tenax pegs with snap domes which are riveted in place. I had to replace a couple when I rebuilt the car some years ago. At that stage I had noticed that some of the threads had been drilled out. I would like to now replace the domes with the correct pegs however I suspect that the threads are too damaged to re-tap ( and hole too big). Question - I see that The Roadster Factory has pegs item number 553837 which are designed for the aluminium frame and go right through the windscreen. Has anyone used these on a steel frame. Albert from TRF has heard of people using them but has no experience himself. I am wondering if this would be a good solution to my problem. Regards Brian
  11. As I understand it the car is under restoration in Christchurch.The owner used to own my TR3. Kevin Tinkler our TR Registrar in NZ would have more information and I recall an article in our TR magazine a while back. Would be interesting to know what happened to the other car in Shanes photo. Brian
  12. Hi. While my 1974 CR TR6 motor is out and and apart I am thinking about power steering. The block is orginally from a saloon according to the block numbers, coverted to TR6 spec. Can a saloon power steering unit be transferred to the TR without any modifications (straight swap over). Have searched for previous threads but cannot find anything Thanks Brian
  13. Hi. Would it be possible for someone to copy the article and PM me. I would like to keep as I will be doing my injectors in the future. I can't seem to copy or save to my laptop. Cheers Brian
  14. Hi. I wondered if anyone had the measurements for the diff mount reinforcing brackets. The ones like Moss and Rimmers stock. The cost to import to NZ is expensive and my son in law works at an engineering company so could make some up. Any help would be appreciated. Regards Brian
  15. Hi All When I acquired by CR series TR6 it was in boxes. I have slowly started to sort out what I have and what I don't. There was no clutch at all. I have just purchased a second hand Laycock clutch cover from my local Vintage car club. Can anyone advise if a Borg and Beck clutch plate can be used as I don't have one that can be sent away for exchange. The clutch plate would be a 8.5x 10 x1.25 What are the differences between the two - would I be able to find a suitable aftermarket one as no one seems to have even a second hand one. Also a bit more difficult being on the other side of the world. I could not find anything in other threads on this. Regards Brian
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