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brian-nz

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About brian-nz

  • Birthday 10/07/1957

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  • Location
    New Zealand

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  1. Sorry, meant to mention its a 1957 TR3 with girling brakes, disc on front. The cocoa tin cylinder as mentioned Regards Brian
  2. Hi All and Happy New Year to everyone. Could someone advise the level the brake fluid should be in the master cylinder. Brakes and clutch have been bled but fluid is coming out of the top (and has damaged the paint work- very annoying). A friend said that fluid should be about 1 to 1 1/2 inches from top to allow expansion. I can't find any level indicator on the cylinder. I have a booster also. Your thoughts appreciated Regards Brian
  3. I have gone down a different route. I leave my soft top attached at the back and roll it up and secure it with a couple of straps around the hood and hood bows. Saves time getting it on when wet weather comes. Also doesn't crease the windows. I don't use a tonneau but easy enough to unclip at back to put one on. Works for me. Brian
  4. Here is a photo of my car from 2014. Couldn't afford a front bumper at the time (still can't). Have had a lot of comments from other TR members that it looks good and sets it apart from all the others. Personal choice though. Brian
  5. Hi all This no doubt has been mentioned in previous posts but can't find the answer. My TR3 is currently running HS5 carbs which from the tag are from a 1976 Triumph 2000. They have always run rich even though I have changed needles to TR3 ones (SM0 I have just rebuilt engine and increased from 83mm to 87mm pistons and liners. No amount of adjustment seems to be working and continues to run rich Do I need to change needle size again Regards Brian
  6. Hi again. Problem solved. I found a strong magnet and managed to coax it out. Took several goes but job done. Brian
  7. Hi. The cable of my rev counter has snapped off in the distributor drive. Is there an easy way of getting this out. There is nothing to grip on to enable me to pull out. Regards Brian
  8. Hi Most of my fastener holes had been drilled out and domes riveted to the frames. After a number of attempts with various glues etc. I opted for the long tenex as used on the aluminium frame. The windscreen did have be filed to ensure it missed the bolts but result is good and nobody has ever noticed.
  9. Hi All On my TR3 the speedo recording is close to GPS reading but the distance recorder is not reading right (reads low). standard speedo 1180. I think my diff is 4.1. Tyres 165s. Would the diff make a difference to the distance recorder or would it be something else. (sorry to hijack this thread) Brian
  10. Hi Folks I am considering rebuilding my engine to eliminate the oil drips ( I can hear you all laughing all the way down here in NZ). Will likely increase to 86mm pistons and liners at the same time. I am going to order the conversion kit from Moss (TT1032) which does not require any machining along with a Viton seal.This being ordered through our TR Register here who have an association with Moss. Moss advises that a special tool (TT1032Tool) is required but I have seen a YouTube clip showing that the tool is not used. At £55 it is very expensive for perhaps a one time use so I
  11. Hi All Can anyone supply a photo of the inner side of the sidescreen. Is there a bulbous piece at the lower front that butts up against the scuttle to stop water coming through that area. I can't find any decent pictures showing this. Or is there something others have done to eliminate this Thanks Brian
  12. I had a similar problem about 5 years ago. The horn would sound when going over a bump in the road, which was quite often. Took the fuse out for the trip home. I found it to be the metal ring on the slip ring inside the steering column had come adrift causing it to 'short' out and set off the horn. A couple of drops of super glue and no problems since. Bit of an effort to get at it but did not need to disassemble the whole control unit (which I have done and agree with others comments). Might be easier to fix than first thought. Brian
  13. Hi John Yes I have always fitted my old hood from the back first. I tried the new one both ways. Either way the seams do not line up with the hood bows. I Have also tried relaxing the bows as suggested in the video but when putting back up it creates a huge amount of pressure on the windscreen frame. I know the hood needs to be a tight fit but this is beyond tight. Given that the seams don't line up I believe that the hood has not been made correctly. It will be interesting to see where Johns friend one came from. Perhaps a bad batch?. I am working with TRF who in turn have gone back to R
  14. Hi Bob and Iain Yes I have checked the webbing and bow positions -TRF sent me that diagram after I indicated that there was a problem. A friend who has a TR2 lent be his set of bows (he currently has his hardtop on) and his soft top. We (upholsterer and I) checked friends bows against mine and they are close to identical. We did this to eliminate the bows. Next we fitted my friends top and although it is a couple of years old it fitted like a glove. The new hood - when fitting from the back and trying to attach to the windscreen will not go and the bow seams are way off. Attaching t
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