CalT

Well, that was a result. Last night I had the MU off again and refitted just to be sure, this morning attempted to restart with the same issues. As suggested above, I opened the air bleed screw on the manifold (quite a bit actually) and the car started, pushing the throttle stalled the car so I wound the bleed screw out further and tried again, this time the revs took off and stayed up around 2000rpm. Wound the bleed screw back in almost to where it had been and the car idles nicely now around 700 - 800rpm. Possibly something had been causing a blockage in there. Further bleeding on the i

Stuart, Do you mean the one at the end of the throttle bodies? It had crossed my mind, but this was all set up before and the car was running, I haven’t touched it since. Will have a look tomorrow and adjust to see if this helps. Cheers.

Have checked the dizzy as well and the rotor is pointing towards 1 when I set 1 to TDC so this seems right also. The only thing still to confirm is that the MU timing is right, I’ve had a look there and number 6 port opens just after 1 is at TDC which also seems right, but I’ll refer to the manual to confirm.

So firing order is correct, 1, 5, 3, 6, 2, 4.

Yes correct, will now not run on 5 cylinders. But with any injector removed will run but very rough. I was mulling it over there, it may not be that the firing order is out but that the timing is out on the ignition. Removal of the injector letting air in to allow the engine to run? I think I might have to go back to square 1 and set up / recheck the ignition timing which is something new to me! I’ll double check the firing order before I do anything.

No, to access the MU I undid the 3 bolts holding it to the pedestal then pulled it backwards to access the No2 banjo. This is what I’m struggling with as almost nothing was altered (intentionally). I wondered about the plugs being soaked but then why would the engine run with one injector removed? I’m baffled to be fair.

Hi all, Thanks for the replies so far. Just to clarify, I now seem to have a different issue. On Thursday, the car was running with no issues other than no fuel at injector 2. I suspected the Banjo bolt and so yesterday I replaced this. Since replacing the banjo bolt the car will no longer run, I have confirmed I have good spray on injectors 1,3,5 and 6. When turning over, the car is almost starting and then stalling very quickly. Injectors are all new (within the last 5 years) from KMI, metering unit overhauled within the same time frame and throttle bodies also overh

Keith, I have recently carried out some refurb work on my own wheel (attached), like you I want to stick to original! Maybe not directly answering your question, but I re-did what would have been the chrome using revel chrome model paint, the centre pad and horn push are from rimmer and I’m planning on ordering this: https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/154015835338?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=YZeynfJbRT6&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=kR83m--8TIy&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY to add the leather and padding you are speaking about. All in, it’ll h

Yeah I had read about that as well, I took It off and blew through just with breath while holding open the end. No blockage evident, there was a bit of fuel in it when I took it off so possibly just more bleeding required. Im a bit more concerned about the car only running when one injector is pulled. I’ve checked and got a good cone of fuel on 4 out of 6 injectors, 4 still needs bleeding and 2 is the original issue. Cheers Cal

Hi all, Just out in the garage now, have changed over the banjo as above. Car is now not starting (appreciate there will still be air in the fuel lines so am bleeding through). Oddly, I keep getting the car to take and then die, but, with one injector removed for the bleeding process it is running up and idling albeit very roughly. I’m clearly missing something here? Also, still no fuel at number 2 and the banjo I removed looked in fine condition… Cheers, Cal

I’ll change out the Banjo Bolts and hopefully that will solve the issue. am I right in saying there is no easy way to do this and the MU needs to come out? Would the recommendation be to remove the MU from the pedestal or the pedestal from the engine? I’ll then need to re-setup the timing on my CR car which I’ve gotten wrong in the past following the brown workshop manual as this is apparently for a CP setup. Cheers Cal

Rather late at replying to this, but I went with the RC001’s and am very happy with the look on the car on the newly refurbished wheels. I haven’t covered any miles yet but will update once I have along with some better pictures!

Hi all, After waiting a long time, my 6 is finally back in the garage, running and driving having had all the suspension and brakes overhauled, a lot of work to the fuel and ignition system, new tyres and overhauled wheel, and some restoration on the paintwork. I’ve registered the car as historic and so Tax and MOT is all dealt with and I’m ready to get the car on the road for the first time since 2008! Just at the wrong time of year of course! One of the few outstanding issues on the car is there is no fuel getting to number 2 injector. All the usual bleeding etc has been done bu

Hi All, I have a question about tyres which has no doubt been asked and answered more than a few times. Firstly, I need tyres all round for my ongoing ‘return to the road’ restoration on my 1972 TR6 which has original 15” steel wheels fitted. I have read up on a few recommendations and had settled on Vredestein T-Trac 2’s (165/80 R15). What are peoples experience of these in the past? Are they the correct size? I am also curious about tubed / tubeless, I am guessing that the current setup is tubed tyres on the 6, if fitting the above, would it be acceptable to run these tub