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About trchris

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  • Location
    Moulton Lincs
  • Cars Owned:
    71 tr6

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  1. Hi Rob the point I was trying to make was because of the cheaper fan units build quality they are less effective than a better built unit The one I originally used didn't in my opinion fill me with confidence of its effectiveness the Spal is smaller and only 80w yet provides a better flow through the radiator I suppose it comes down to money you pay for what you get. I agree there's no need for bigger more powerful fan units the same as large output alternators bigger is not always the solution Chris
  2. Its not the reliability its the performance as I said the one I had originally fitted as a pusher fan hardly rippled a sheet of paper on the other side of the radiator the Spal fitted as a puller sucks a sheet against the other side quite forcibly Chris
  3. trchris


    Hi Clem The 5and 6 has extra vents just under the dash both sides Chris
  4. trchris

    No Heat.

    Hi Phil The heater valve is located at the back of the cylinder head easy to remove check once engine warm if the hose gets hot first obviously with control inside on warm I would also check the distribution control cable do this by operating whilst looking at the flap on bottom of heater unit in the car from either the drivers or passenger foot well sounds like it will be the valve on the head as other say its not a good design Chris
  5. trchris

    No Heat.

    Phil My heater valve was completely blocked allowing nothing through changed to the Everco type now gets very warm Chris
  6. I removed the cheaper 14inch,120w pusher fan(from ebay make I wont mention but you all know) and fitted a Spal 10inch puller the difference is amazing and to think its a smaller fan too for anyone considering running with no mechanical fan and just using an electric type don't go cheap Chris
  7. Hi all I hope everyone's taking there 50 year old wiring into consideration when they are upgrading alternator outputs Chris
  8. I would also assume that in a well balanced engine the crank has the same forces acting on it so these cranks are not immune to failure either Chris
  9. Thanks all for the input and comments I agree with the consensus that it makes no difference if the extension and fan are there or not and theres no need for a damped pulley unless pacifically made for the TR2/3/4 crank the benefit is minimal if any Chris
  10. Hi John unfortunately your too far from me but that would be an interesting experiment to conduct on a tr4 however as I understand the 2s and 3s have a shorter fan extension so surely if the extension and fan form part of a crank balancer/ damper shouldn't they all be uniform as they fit to the same engine all be it in different models?
  11. Hi Roger and Stef Thanks for the replies. These were my thoughts as well unless the damped pulley has been specifically designed for the appropriate crank its fitted to its almost as good as not and Im sure the ones sold in the kits haven't been thoroughly tested and designed for the cranks they are suppose to fit so in my opinion and only my opinion maybe do not give much benefit. Chris
  12. Hi one and all I know this has been covered many many times and I have been reading all the appropriate posts and supplied information from way back concerning the front pulley and fan extension acting as a crank damper. However the old grey matter is finding it hard to understand how the Triumph set up works. All the crank dampers Ive come across over the years are constructed of crank boss / rubber bonding / v pulley and one of the service points we carried out was check rubber bonding on crank pulley every 6000miles. So question is where is the rubber bonding on the 4a pulley assembl
  13. Hi Laurence I use this from Westway lubricants contains 1500ppm ZDDP good quality oil and reasonably priced from ebay ref number 112832542403 Chris
  14. I'm with Andy get yours repaired Im sure you will find an auto electrical repairers nearby or have a word with your local group members they will know who to use Chris
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