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woodward

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  1. Hi - A quick question for the electrical engineers and experts out there. If I fit LED bulbs and associated solid state flasher relay, can I also use the same flasher relay for hazards or do i need a 2nd flasher relay for the hazards? I am thinking that I can get away with one as the solid state relay is load independent? Thanks Myles
  2. Hi, So my TR4 has the door seal with a a fuzzy that runs around both doors and over the backlight, and a channel for the rubber seal. I've never bothered with the seal until recently when I was out in the wet and thought I should really get them sorted. I bought a seal from the TRF in the US, and also a seal from Moss which were recommended as ones that fit. I fitted both seals however with both I needed to give the door a huge slam to get it to shut properly. Even then it pops out again when I'm driving. I know this is a common problem which is why I thought I would buy what are sup
  3. Hi - I'm talking about the ones in the top of the turret that attach the top fulcrum to the turret. Wanting to install an adjustable top fulcrum to improve the camber and it's recommended to weld the nuts so you can set it up with out removing the springs each time.
  4. Hi, Has anyone welded the top fulcrum nuts on a TR4? My memory is that there's not much space in there, and I would be doing this with the car on jack stands and the suspension dropped. Trying to work out if I can do this myself, get a mobile welder to do it or if I need to take the car somewhere. Thanks Myles
  5. Hi, I'm looking for some advice on tuning HS6 carbs on a TR4. I've always been concerned the car was running rich, so when the front bowl began to leak from the jet connection at the base I decided to check the settings on the carbs (following re-setting the tappets, timing and points). My question revolves around the level in the jets - I've set the float height to 3/16" from the top (plastic floats) when the lid is upside down in both carbs. However the fuel level in the front carb is probably 1/8" or so below the bridge, and in the rear carb greater that 1/2" below the bridge. I as
  6. Hello, I need to replace the upper inner fulcrum bushes on my TR4. My question is whether I need to remove the spring to do this, or just compress it in situ. I have the proper spring Triumph compressor that goes through the centre of the spring and i am thinking that once compressed, there should no longer be any tension on the upper arms, as the tension is taken by the spring compressor and I can safely change the bushes. Is this correct or am I missing something...? Thanks Myles
  7. Hi, I’m in the process of installing adjustable top fulcrums on my TR4. Looking at the top of the suspension turret, it does not appear totally flat, but has a ‘kink’ in it as you go towards the centre of the car. This means that when you push the fulcrum inwards to create negative camber the fulcum rides up the ‘V’ and no longer contacts the turret along its full length, only contacting at the ends. I can’t believe it is designed link this so I’m thinking I’m doing something wrong. Has anyone installed these on a TR4 and experienced the same issue? Hoping my explanation is clear!
  8. Hello, I’m looking for a set of stiffer rear springs for my 64 TR4. It has the deep dish springs but I seem to only be able to find the earlier flatter type in a stiffer spec. Do you know if I can covert my car to the earlier springs? I have the plates etc so could do it if if the springs are the same length (I know the really early ones are different). Alternatively do you know of a supplier that makes the deep dish spring in an uprated spec? Thanks Myles
  9. Hello, My 64 TR4 has a wingard mirror, which I believe is orginal to the car. Last time I dismatled one of these I managed to crack the sleeves and mounting when removing the stalk. I’m now trying to combne two mirrors to make one good one however I’m nervous of cracking the good sleeves and mounting again. Does anyone know if there is a knack to dismantling these mirrors such as the application of heat...? Thanks Myles
  10. Hi, Has anyone installed a 3rd Brake Light on a TR4 surrey top? If so, what has been your experince of this and which light did you buy? Thanks Myles
  11. Hello, I have a '64 TR4 with a vent in the petrol cap and at a recent rally the scrutineer pulled me up on this and suggested that I plug the hole in the cap and install a vent thet passes through the floor of the car with a non return valve on the end. Has anyone done this and how and where did you attach the vent to the tank? I would prefer not to have to invest in an early TR4 tank if at all possible. Thanks Myles
  12. Hello The front fog lights on my TR4 are currently wired from the headlight switch through another switch and then to a relay to the front fogs. I would like to change them so that they will only come on when the headlights are on full beam. I'm therefore thinking about taking a feed off the full beam warning light to the fog light switch and onwards to the relay. As there is a relay, the current should not be that great through the fog light switch. Does anyone see any problems with the setup? I'm not keen to take a feed straight off the dip switch unless I really have too as it's to
  13. Thanks for the help with this. Looks like I am not alone with the misalignment issue. My previous set-up had a GE alternator with home made fixings using a long bolt, copper pipe and washers. I hoped that by going for the proper kit it would just bolt straight in in the right place. So looks like it's off to the machine shop to shave ~2mm off the large spacer. Myles
  14. Hello I am just installing a lightweight edge alternator on my TR4 which came from TR Enterprises. It comes with a spindle to connect to the existing dynamo bracket. When installed it looks like the alternator pulley is slightly forward of the water pump and crank but this may be an optical illusion. Has anyone else had this with these alternators and spindles? Thanks Myles
  15. Hello So on the way back from a long trip today the rev counter on my TR4 starts to go nuts (but not the revs...) and some years ago I had the same issue on my TR3. Cause that time was a faulty cable and I was told that the new cables are poor quality compared to the originals. Given that my rev counter cable is not that old, does anyone know of a supplier that supplies good quality cables that are known to work? Only want to do this replacement once... Thanks Myles
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