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  1. Thanks for your suggestions all. I re-torqued the head, changed the offending spark plug for a known good old one and removed the PCV valve apparatus from the head. No more white smoke or oil on the plug so some progress there. Thinking the PCV valve was the cause of the smoke and torquing the head solved the oily plug. The car's still not running great (thinking carb setup but could also be the other plugs) so the car's now gone to a specialist for them to set it up properly for me. Myles
  2. Hi, I'm struggling to get my newly rebuilt engine to run well so I'm reaching out for some advice. The engine runs but doesn't sound great (like a tractor but that could be the exhaust which I think is leaking at the joint in the cross member - no unusual noises though) and more vibration that I would want on tick over. The car drives (only been driven a few hundred metres so far) - but there is quite some white smoke on acceleration (and sometimes tickover) but not all the time. The car has a newly rebuilt Peter Burgess stage 2 head and new 89mm pistons/liners with piper yellow cam.
  3. Thanks Ian - the gasket came from TRGB. Could they be the same…? Myles
  4. Hi, I'm about to put the head back on my rebuilt engine and plan to use a composite gasket (the black one with the read stripe on it) because I've upgraded to 89mm pistons. Last time I took the head off I used a payen gasket and sealed it with Copper Coat which worked very well. My question is whether I can also use this copper coat on the composite gasket aswell? Alternatives would be wellseal, hylomar (I have this in spray form) or none at all. What is the advice on copper coat...? Thanks Myles
  5. Thanks Roger. Another question, slightly different topic - what is the sealant of choice for the rear oil seal housings (Marx type)? Wellseal or Hylomar? Myles
  6. Thanks Chris - sorted now.
  7. Hi, I'm about to refit the cam coreplug on my TR4 engine after the bearings have been replaced. I'd assumed that the domed side faces outwards and you give it a good whack to seal, however the plug seems slightly too large for the hole although it does seem to be the right size dome side in. So before I force it in, just checking that the dome side does indeed face outwards on this core plug...? Thanks Myles
  8. Hi, The rear glass channel on one of my doors is broken (the channel has come away from the fixings and was lying in the bottom of the door). Does anyone know if it is possible to fit a new channel without removing the glass from the door? Trying to avoid having to remove the window seals if possible. Thanks Myles
  9. Hi All, The passenger side of my TR4 (ex US car so this was the driver's door for most of the car's life) does not shut well. It needs s good slam and even then does not close well. There is some play in the hinges but I was wondering how much is normal? Should there be no play at all or is some acceptable? I'm thinking to replace the hinges anyway (or refurbish the old ones but this seems tricky) but want to get quality replacements - does anyone know who stocks the bastuck ones? Thanks Myles
  10. Thanks all for your help on this topic. I had another read of Kastner's book and the technicalities material to help understand the issue. Given that I'm not building a race car I've come to the conclusion that I won't need to machine the liner tops. One other question though - I still need to decide on the CR. I'm not planning to deck the pistons but I do have a choice on head gasket. What is the recommended head gasket for a non race spec engine with 89 mm pistons? Composite or copper? Thanks Myles
  11. Hi I’m rebuilding my TR4 engine at the moment with 89mm liners, trgb piper yellow cam and stage 2 head. I read somewhere on the forum (though can’t find it now) that I should machine a 45 degree angle in the top of the liners for best results. Is this something I should ask the machine shop to do? Also when I dropped the head off I was asked what compression ratio I wanted. What is the common wisdom? The car will be rallied/hillclimbed but I drive the car to/from events so am so looking for something which will be ok to drive in traffic. My thoughts at the moment are to leave the
  12. Hi, I've been uprating the suspension on my TR4 and it looks like the rear of the car now needs to be lowered by approx 1" following the changes. I've read on other posts that I can solve this with longer shackles on the rear springs (I assume 1" longer?). Does anyone know where I can get these or where I can get them made? Thanks Myles
  13. Hi, I’m trying to wire in my hazard switch and looking for the double bullet connector with the feed (green wire) from the voltage stabiliser input and the output to the wipers and the flasher unit. Can somebody me let me know where this bullet connector is located in the car? Thanks Myles
  14. Hi - A quick question for the electrical engineers and experts out there. If I fit LED bulbs and associated solid state flasher relay, can I also use the same flasher relay for hazards or do i need a 2nd flasher relay for the hazards? I am thinking that I can get away with one as the solid state relay is load independent? Thanks Myles
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