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  1. Many thanks Gent's, Much to think about there! I think Roger's suggestion of the magic WD40 is the first pass 'cheapest' option and also I'll check the vanes. I've got a new fan belt in my boot somewhere. I still have my original Lucas 17ACR so I could rebuild it and put it back on. I thought a replacement was the easiest option (and it seems you can only get 18ACR's). Maybe not so !
  2. Fan belt is fine, not too tight, moves about 3/4" to 1" at mid point between water pump and crank. The three pulley's (water pump, alternator and crank) are all lined up OK in the same plane.
  3. I bought and installed a new ACR18 Alternator six months ago. It's making a bit of a din when running, working just fine but sounds as like there is a lack of lubrication somewhere. Is there anyway I can lubricate ? There is no mention in the 'Brown Book' I know you should never state a problem and then suggest an answer so maybe it's something else ! All observations welcomed.
  4. 1970 CP on Injection. Just replaced standard cam with Piper Mild. Does anyone have good ignition timing info for this Cam. I am using a 123 Dizzy and previously (with the standard, albeit a bit worn cam) I set at 12 BTDC at 1k revs and setting 'D' which was the closest to the Workshop Manual Curve. This setting was fine, but I now find I have lumpiness on low acceleration and on the over ride (ie butterflies closed, decelerating).
  5. Thanks Gent's I'll set to 90ftIbs then, with a little Locktite I think.
  6. Can anyone please tell me the torque setting for the large bolt that secures the fan extension to the front of the crankshaft. It's 1 1/8" AF ? Can't find it listed in the Brown Book but it can be seen at 12.65.01 as '9' Ta.
  7. Thanks Gents. I will swap the spark plugs around and see what that brings (should have thought of that as I had tried swapping the injectors 1 to 2 to no avail). Did meter the plug leads and they all seem fine. The suggestion to look at the sparks on all cylinders is a good one, not thought of that. I have just checked that the hole at the back of the butterfly on number one, to the air bleed tube is not blocked and that seems OK. Going to be Sunday before I can go for a run so will report back. Thanks for suggestions.
  8. '70 CP. Just fitted MU after re-build and have done around 60 miles. All injectors pulse same and cone spray is same. However on cylinder number 1 (at the front closest to the rad) the spark plug is dry sooty. All other plugs are fine with fawn/light grey. Car has bags of torque and goes well apart from a little low speed lumpiness (30mph'ish in top) Plugs are NGK BPR6EIX (Iridium) and have been in for last 5k miles. Gaps at 35, Coil Bosch Blue, on 124 Dizzy. MU rebuilt due to ruptured diaphragm. Starts from cold on all six (full choke) Any suggestions before more serious investigation ?
  9. The wiring diagram for my 1970 CP shows three wires leaving the Alternator. A large capacity Brown/White which ends up on the Ammeter, a Brown/Yellow which goes to the Ignition warning light and Brown/Red which goes to the connector block. However..... my Alternator has only two wires leaving it. A large capacity Brown/White which does indeed end up on the Ammeter and another, smaller capacity Brown/White which goes where I know not. It does not go to the connector block as those connections are Brown. Anybody give me a steer please ? Ta! John B
  10. JohnTB

    Disc Runout

    Well Roger, try as I may, I can't find your bits in my garage .... Fitted new discs after thorough clean up of hubs once the old discs had been removed. Torqued to 34ft/lb using method as close as I could to tightening head bolts. Prior to fitting, used fine file on the face where the discs fit (mainly around the edges of the bolt holes to ensure no edge) and also a thorough a emery clothing. Checked face with a known straight edge and all looked fine. Fitted hubs - no bearing play, but found run out of 6 thou on off side and 4 thou on near side. So, decided to press on in view of the Scim
  11. JohnTB

    Disc Runout

    Thanks Gent's, some very good points, and thank you John for the link, which explained a lot. The bit about TR6 discs used on the Scimitar but with different calipers is pertinent in my case as I run with Toyota four pots (and have done for the last 15k miles). A scout around my garage revealed two new discs in boxes (oh the joys of old age and forgetfulness!) So, Roger, instead of swapping the discs around, I'll fit the new ones and see what happens. Watch this space.
  12. JohnTB

    Disc Runout

    Anybody know what front disc run out should be ? I've been experiencing "judder" when hard braking and after getting a clock gauge on the front discs, I find a variance of 7 thou on near side and 9 thou on off side. Would this be down solely to distorted discs or is there something else that may affect run out ?
  13. Hello Morten, If you haven't, it's also well worth cleaning the idle air circuit. Take a look at the TR Register Technicalities CD - Page L19 starting at "Inlet Manifolding" this continues onto Page L20, which describes how to do this. Tick over and low speed running should be much improved. If you haven't got the CD, give the TR Register Office a call. Good luck
  14. I installed MX5 seats with the high (all in one) back some years back. The wind deflector I've fitted came from Moss.
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