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  1. Thanks , yes I don’t know the purpose of the nib end , makes it easier to bleed ? I wasn’t going to admit this but one new injector slipped from my hand and sprung on the plastic pipe against the head breaking the nib off. (Anyone this side of Nottingham would’ve heard the swearing ) . It still seems to have a good conical mist though, visually the same as the others so it’s been fitted .
  2. Quick update, I took the injectors to a local specialist for testing. The results ranged from poor to awful. so in a moment of rashness I called at Rimmer’s and invested in a new set . Fitted and bled , car now starts ‘on the button’ and after a minute or two settles down and runs smoothly. Was going for a test run but it started snowing! Also compression tested, showed a v healthy 14bar av across the 6 cylinders . (200psi) . Is this higher than normal ? Hoping all will now be good for the summer
  3. I agree, and the holes are just visible . I think I’ll get all 6 checked and cleaned . thanks all . Dave
  4. Ah , makes sense thanks . So all the same .
  5. Would the short ended injector have a different part no though? my short one has 14 - 69. 73045A identical to a needled one . Needled injectors all have the same 73045A but some have differing prefix no’s 47 - 69 / 6 - 69 / 14 - 71 Even looking at the end through a magnifying glass it’s not clear either way but as the car was running i think it’s most likely Ok .
  6. It is a bit worrying thinking that tip may be in the cylinder. I have had as good look in there as possible and used a magnetic screwdriver in the hope it may pick something up. A camera will be the best way to be sure . I’ll recheck the serial nos n the injector. One does look slightly different but not that one , apart from the missing tip. I can see from previous receipts that it had 5 inj checked and one replaced a few years ago . Seems a coincidence? The car had some running issues when cold but no6 cyl has definitely been firing , I’ll check the injector end with a m
  7. Hi all , I removed the injectors on my 5 last night to get them checked and cleaned and discovered the injector on no6 cylinder has no tip! ( snapped off. ) My first thought was that I had been clumsy and snapped it off removing it but I know I was careful. Is there any reason why a tip should get damaged in situ ? . I find it hard to believe the previous owner would have fitted a broken injector. This of course means the tip has passed through the engine but fortunately with no outward signs of damage . Thanks, Dave
  8. My 5 achieves that when cold I was told to expect a minimum 10psi / 1k rpm hot. Not sure how acurate a 50yr old gauge is tho’
  9. So what pressure should we expect on a Tr5/6 engine at hot tick over ? mine drops to approx 10psi but no sign of the light flickering .
  10. Hi Tim The same type is still available on eBay , the link doesn’t seem to copy to the forum but it’s from carbitsnbobs furl pump inertia cut off switch . The one I’ve used has a yellow top . I can’t recommend this and can only assume it will work. it’s a used part but I thought it may be better than a cheap Chinese copy that are also available on eBay . And it has the plug and wires etc . Best of luck. Dave
  11. It was the quick easy route tbf . I did consider the risk of electric and petrol next door to each other and ran the wire through a conduit and being in the C section of the chassis is extremely well protected but I take on board the concerns above and will re route the wire for peace of mind . Thanks for the advice. I did take the car for a run today with no noticeable difference in performance but at least I now have an inertia switch fitted . Dave
  12. All wired up . New cable running down the chassis alongside the fuel feed pipe . The pump has already been moved to the rear wheel arch but the wiring was thin . The original white pump wire in the boot is a good thickness but it was poorly connected and the wires pulled apart v easily. I connected the new pump feed to fuse no2 which is a permanent live straight from the battery ( brown wire) and it conveniently had a spare spade connector. The switched relay feed is from fuse 1 ( green wire) I ran the pump for a couple of minutes through a 10amp fuse with no problem. Pump cert
  13. Relay in the boot should work just fine with the inertia switch . (IMO)
  14. Hi Richard, I don’t disagree with what you say . I haven’t quoted any hi amp figures, I believe my Sytec pump draws about 8 amps so similar to your figures. Tim mentioned 17amps but I think he was referring to the cable rating in his new loom rather than the pump requirements. The fact his loom has an uprated pump feed highlights a problem with the original wire . Earth wise Steve advised that Trs tend to have poor earth return through the chassis/ body . The cable I have is twin core so it is no problem to return the earth straight to the battery , otherwise totally agree ,
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