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  1. Thanks , all useful information. Wow , supercharged 6 . That must be quite a handful!
  2. That sounds like a plan . Regular oil changes , I’ll try the Penrite and maybe a cooler . I just managed 1k miles in the car last year, really must do better . D.
  3. Thanks for the replies folks , After I bought the car (Oct 2020) I found posts on here from the previous owner. it seems the engine had suffered a broken main cap at some point and this was rectified by simply fitting a replacement along with a new set of main bearings. No line bore or crank grind (against advice ). I’m ‘guessing’ that this main has worn and is responsible for the low oil pressure . The new cap was obviously a pretty good match though as the car has clocked up a good few thousand miles since then . I’m thinking that all but one of the mains should still be pretty
  4. Debating the potential benefits of fitting an oil cooler to my 5 Oil pressure drops low when hot on tick over . No flickering oil light but the gauge reads only 10psi ish. needle moves up smartly as soon as revs increase and runs 30-50 psi on normal hot running , say 2-3k rpm. I realise a cooler will initially reduce the pressure but will I benefit overall for having cooler oil ? It had a new oil pump a few years ago. thanks , Dave
  5. Thanks , I’ll replace them . I’ve got a couple of bolts , just waiting for a 5/16 tap which is of course the one missing from my set . .
  6. Hi Roger yes the lower hole , there is a captive nut in the chassis but neither side has a bolt in . just seems strange for them not to have been fitted .
  7. Poking around under the Tr5 and noticed that neither of the 5/16 bolts from the front floor footwell through to the chassis are there .( next to the front of the gb tunnel ) The holes line up perfectly although one of the captive nuts underneath needs the threads re tapping . It seems a dumb question but are these bolts normally fitted or is there a reason why they would be left out ? The rubber washers between the body and chassis are still in place .
  8. Now I understand, thanks and for the pic correction
  9. Now I understand, thanks and for the pic correction
  10. Thanks folks , mine seems slightly different in that it has normal press studs along the rear edge . Pics attached.
  11. Thanks for the info Peter, my hood has a row of press studs along the rear edge which attach the tonneau cover , I assume these will also fit the hood cover . Rimmer’s have a cover for a Tr6 hood but it’s made to order so I need to double check it will fit , I guess no returns.
  12. Hi , does anyone know if the hood stowage cover ( for when the hood is down) is the same for Tr4/5/6 . I see they are available for a 6 but no mention of 4/5 s . thanks . Dave .
  13. Sensible easy fix , I didn’t think of that solution. D
  14. Hi Denis , you’re probably sorted now but this may help . I had the same problem with the replica winguard mirrors and the adjustment became something of an obsession! The car Tr5, just had the drivers door mirror fitted when I bought it and I fitted a matching passenger door mirror . Neither mirror would adjust inwards enough but the passenger side was way out . The mirror glass can be prised out and with a bit of careful grinding the adjustment bolt can be removed. Then I slotted the hole in the mirror body with a file until the mirror head would adjust inwards enough
  15. Yes , good to meet up and pick a few tips up as well . Hope to catch up again . Dave
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