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BlueTR3A-5EKT

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About BlueTR3A-5EKT

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  • Location
    Pinner Middlesex
  • Cars Owned:
    Powder Blue TR3A, BR Green TR2, Phantom Grey TR3A
    Maker of original style aeroscreen mounting brackets

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  1. Have you bought a TARDIS Hoges and gone back to being a teenager? WTF are they supposed to signify? I just spotted the smiley face at the top rh of the options bar. I have also pressed all the other symbols and cannot work out what some of them actually do. Is this an age thing?
  2. The alternator looks like a Lucas ACR type. As Rob has said use a bulb and wire for simple continuity test. The ohmmeter is probably too sensitive Get one of these https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256441484251?_trkparms=amclksrc%3DITM%26aid%3D1110018%26algo%3DHOMESPLICE.COMPLISTINGS%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D260662%26meid%3D84c8720c0db54f43ad0164c32a06c2ee%26pid%3D101196%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D12%26sd%3D192846063407%26itm%3D256441484251%26pmt%3D1%26noa%3D0%26pg%3D4429486%26algv%3DCompVIDesktopATF2V4WithDefaultIMAFeature&_trksid=p4429486.c101196.m2219&itmprp=cksum%3A25644148425184c8720c0db
  3. Remove the motor from the mounting bracket, remove the drive rack. Turn the motor over and remove the C clip holding the driven gear into the gearbox housing. Lift out the gear. Try to rotate the worm drive of the armature end with your fingers. Not easy but it should rotate. Apply power to the two terminals, plus have the earth connected if you want. The motor should work. If not loosen 1/2 turn each the slotted screws on the brush end cover. Re apply power. Still no go? Take the cover off that is over the brushes by undoing the two slotted screws completely . Smell
  4. That wiring diagram in the big red book is not completely correct for your car Richard. The notable problem is that there are only two wires going to the wiper motor. That is a non self parking wiper motor as used on TR2-3. You have a self parking wiper motor with 3 wires. The wiring diagram for your car can be found in the glove box sized booklet Handy Hints. Aka drivers hand book. online here. http://www.advanceautowire.com/tr24a.pdf
  5. No Adwest Engineering at Woolley, Did use Dowty for a few items but they had a greedy tooling ownership policy, that RR got really caught out by.
  6. Take your pick! https://www.ebay.co.uk/sch/i.html?_dkr=1&iconV2Request=true&_blrs=recall_filtering&_ssn=advancedautomotives&store_cat=0&store_name=advancedautoperformanceparts&_oac=1&_nkw=tap
  7. Could be rubbish wiper arms of course…….Roger has had this problem I think and proposed pink ribbon to tie the things on. I went for stainless steel wire locking. A more engineering based solution.
  8. That is correct about the tooling BMH used. A lot of parts were genuine old stock from Leyland, that no tooling existed for when the project was started, other parts were Cox & Buckles kirksite form tools run through a big rubber press, that press is now scrap, plus C&B drop hammer tooling, that was retooled. Heritage Pressings supplied a vast amount of odd brackets and fittings ( wiring loom tags, L brackets for trim boards etc) for the TR 6 shell. They closed down when BMH was homologated into one factory at Witney. By that time they were in discussion with SteelCraft. B
  9. That looks like an A type overdrive for a TR and should fit your 1970 CC chassis without modifications. You will need the electrical circuit, a control switch relay and cables. It looks like the isolator switched on the gearbox remote are present. Check it has a switch for the reversing lights. As Harry says get it looked at before installing. Could be tears if you get it installed only to find the lay gear bearings have worn through.
  10. Not an original feature. However….if there is not a similar earthing cable between the body/chassis and the engine that one will do. It is the electrical return for the starter motor power and the ignition and charging circuits. If it is not there the choke cable becomes the earth return cable causing all manner of issues.
  11. Thank you Ian and Andy. Ian = That was the type/spec of Loctite I was expecting to use too. Getting to bits was my concern without having to resort to heat and the adhesive being temperature and oil tolerant. Regarding ‘do it dry’ as Andy has mentioned I think I agree but as i am dispensing with the lock tabs and am using original plain bolts i want to have a sensation of it ‘not falling out’. I have read the TR250/5/6 spec and that has no mention of thread locking, just that they are stretch type bolts which must be renewed and tightened to a specific torque. I understand t
  12. Before you remove the starter assembly……. Remove the solenoid cover plate, take out the contact disc and clean it and the terminals inside that it makes contact with. Here is a blow by blow ‘how to’ after the sales pics. You can clean it on the car. I have done this job of cleaning the contacts on the car a couple of times and it has fixed a non working starter without the need to remove from car. https://www.sherco-auto.com/starter-solenoid-contacts.html
  13. Here is a petrol tap described as for 10 mm hose. I would check that is the bore of the hose to fit the barbed ends of the tap. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/354423350547?chn=ps&norover=1&mkevt=1&mkrid=710-153316-527457-8&mkcid=2&itemid=354423350547&targetid=4585032215660919&device=c&mktype=&googleloc=&poi=&campaignid=554648192&mkgroupid=1302922387078119&rlsatarget=pla-4585032215660919&abcId=9323209&merchantid=87779&msclkid=0b28fe44f83c1e93b62b9bb0ce0dc427 All you will need is a screw in adaptor with 1/2" unf threa
  14. Which Loctite for big ends? As the title says. My Loctite bottle is run out and I need to replace it. I cannot read the spec on the bottle. What is the recommendation for securing the big end bolts in TR con rods as I have thrown the lock tabs in the bin. My red bottle has run out. I have never tested this stuff for ease of undoing. I have a bottle of blue non branded and am nervous I have trialed it on a nut and bolt and it does hold and creates a resistance to unscrewing once the locking torque is broken. I have looked at the Loctite web pages and they
  15. The pipe is 5/16 external diameter. It has an double sided olive to seal it gripped by the olive nut into a counterbore in the tank fitting The primary bore Ii to the tank through the fitting is 5/16” clearance so a 5/16 pipe can pass through. The olive nut is 1/2” unf thread. view is of NOS original Triumph samples.
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