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BlueTR3A-5EKT

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BlueTR3A-5EKT last won the day on March 30

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About BlueTR3A-5EKT

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  • Location
    Pinner Middlesex
  • Cars Owned:
    Blue TR3A, Green TR2, Phantom Grey TR3A
    Maker of original style aeroscreen mounting brackets

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  1. The big lump is a mass balance and the bracket work is needed to reduce remote chatter. Q - did you remove the big brass plug in the bottom of the overdrive unit, then remove & clean the metal strainer - if so what did you find debris wise? Cheer Peter W
  2. Yes it will need a LED suitable flasher relay. AES Offers two kits. One suitable for LED. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/406/category/43 Peter W
  3. The TR4A onwards ones are at least twice the height as side screen car lock stops. Peter W
  4. As Cox and Buckles & later Moss we sold new blocks and built numerous engines with new un-numbered recessed type blocks for 6 cylinder Triumphs. As stated above yours could be a number matching exercise using a replacement block after perhaps a crank thrust washer failure. Cheers Peter W
  5. 156111 are the concentric type - non adjustable - fit and forget (?) Peter W
  6. Well done Pike I was hoping someone would say that.....Peter W
  7. To me the first item in the photos looks like a battery voltage stabiliser in the footwell that sends 10 volts to the instruments and is not a flasher relay. I would have expected to find the flasher relay under the bonnet and having 3 terminals. Peter W
  8. Do not forget the stanchions are matched to their brackets. They have a number letter combination stamped on bracket and stanchion that should be the same. Matching the profile shape when the two are assembled is a factor to consider. Since repainting my car and rebuilding a rechromed screen I now slack the 3 screws that hold one stanchion to the frame when fitting/removing the screen. Makes for more clearance. Peter W
  9. When writing the TR2-4A parts sales catalogue for Moss we were posed with a dreadfully difficult decision...to include or not the ash tray. We knew the source of one possible design was Morris Minor so contacted a good friend who ran a Morris Minor spares business to see if we could get a supplier. He said "when asked by our customers we think out the box & tell 'em to flick it out the **ck**g window" Peter W PS We concluded there were at least 2 designs of ashtray fitted to the sidescreen car, one we had an original NOS sample of - The long pull out metal one (as fitted to my brothers TR3A) plus the half round swivelling bakelite one, that crops up on many other early TRs (& early Morris Minor) - do you know of any more?
  10. Had a similar 'fault' that turned out to be a bad connection. Unplug/disconnect all external cables related to the alternator, clean and reconnect. That method fixed my problem. Cheers Peter W
  11. Try this new link - Just highlight it all then right click, open link. it is selling new for £51.27 + £14.14 postage from Italy. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTOR-ALTERNATOR-KUBOTA-Z402-Z482-AIXAM/263236351188?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D7acff47f23cb41a09f8f7064c2b859c5%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D263236351188%26itm%3D263236351188&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042 The one you highlighted is a good price too. Peter W PS I agree with Roger - go to LED lamps and you will probably not need an alternator. It is the electric cooling fan that sucks the battery dry and it is mostly on when you are at tick-over, when the dynamo does not charge..... That loops us round to the use and substitution of an alternator on cars we use in traffic. My own TR is regularly used on the great circular car park (M25) day and night in all weathers. The wipers use 2 amps when running. The engine fan takes 10 amps, the headlamps and other light 12 amps and the heater 1. That's more amps demanded than your dynamo will supply at max charge. It was driving in central London regularly in the traffic on winter evenings 20 years ago that convinced me the dynamo had to be beefed up or replaced. We now have them on all three of our TR's. We can supply you with the wiring details if you do go down this route. You will need to add an ignition controlled supply to energise the unit, plus a new thick supply wire to supplement the existing dynamo main wire. Control box mods are simple. I have added a cigarette lighter socket (sat nav etc) and have a volt meter plugged in the tell me the state of the battery. Over 13.5 amps is good when running. Cheers Peter W
  12. I have used the Nippon Denso unit from a Kubota garden tractor. A bit like this - https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MOTOR-ALTERNATOR-KUBOTA-Z402-Z482-AIXAM/263236351188?_trkparms=aid%3D111001%26algo%3DREC.SEED%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D20131017132637%26meid%3D7acff47f23cb41a09f8f7064c2b859c5%26pid%3D100033%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D2%26sd%3D263236351188%26itm%3D263236351188&_trksid=p2045573.c100033.m2042 ...and yes you do have to create a mounting system and run extra wires. and it looks inappropriate for the purists. The car can be reverted back to dynamo if you wished. Peter W
  13. Yes simply fit the wide pulley. Just done this job on a TR 3. Access is the challenge. Modified the control box with an internal wire so it looks unmolested. Cheers Peter W
  14. I too experienced this dwell change with rpm after using a dwell meter instead of the tried and tested feeler gauge in the points gap method. I fitted a Petronix Ignitor unit, instead of points - smoothed out the engine tickover and running. My distributor was sh*gg*d, but the Pertronix improved things, it was even better after Distributor Doctor rebuilt it and is now fitted with the Pertronix unit instead of points. (the points/condenser base plate assy is in the car ....just in case....) I'd say the dwell should remain constant, not change with rpm. Probably points mounting plate rocking and /or distributor spindle bearing wear. Cheers Peter W
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