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BlueTR3A-5EKT last won the day on April 27

BlueTR3A-5EKT had the most liked content!

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About BlueTR3A-5EKT

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  • Location
    Pinner Middlesex
  • Cars Owned:
    Powder Blue TR3A, BR Green TR2, Phantom Grey TR3A
    Maker of original style aeroscreen mounting brackets

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  1. Interestingly here Triumph fitted an hotter plug (N12Y) on carb spec engines in some of the saloon cars with the 6 cylinder engine. I' m with you go colder on the plugs and lower the tick over as far as possible. Peter W
  2. +1 mine go untouched from one year to next. Then........ What's wrong with sand blasting them.? Did a roaring trade as an apprentice when I worked in the grit blast and process dept. Tanner a plug including vapour trichloroethalene degreasing and masking plus regapped to 0.025" Give them to me at shift start and all were done by lunchtime. Peter W
  3. Busy man. You must be as bored as me. How did you get the body off without removing the hand brake lever? Are the trestles and scaffold planks holding the power plant? Peter W
  4. Which fuel pipe are you intending to replace?
  5. If it is ethanol proof you are after wait for the pt nos from Stuart. Alternatively:- there will be something here I suspect https://www.carbuilder.com/uk/fuel-hoserubber-fuel-hose Cheers Peter W
  6. The consensus is that retarded ignition is a cause of an engine running hotter. From the Rootes forum :- http://www.rootesparts.com/id201.htm There is a lot of misinformation about ignition timing and cooling. Retarded timing contributes to overheating. Advanced timing helps cooling. Bump up your initial timing a few degrees and see if it helps the car run cooler. It's an easy and practical fix. Of course, if you advance enough to enter pre-ignition or detonation you will start to overheat. Detonation contributes to overheating. If you start to detonate back off the timing. Overheating cars should always run vacuum advance. Vacuum advance helps cooling.
  7. Buy an adjustable timing light https://www.machinemart.co.uk/p/gunson-77008-timing-light-with-advance-feature/ Check the timing mark on the pulley is correct for TDC Mark timing pointer and pulley with white paint. - I have added a v nick in the pulley edge to align with the pointer rather than using just the hole drilled in the pulley. GO You are seeking less than 32 degrees maximum advance at the crank at over 3000 rpm. My less than standard engine runs best without pinking at 28-30 BTDC. That gives me a static advance of 8-10 degrees. Knowing my distributor has a maximum mechanical advance of 10 degrees (20 at the crank) Cheers Peter W
  8. Jo, Have you re adjusted the rear brake shoes since fitting? This may be part of the problem. Sit in the car with the engine running and pump the brake pedal with your foot to get it firm, & keep pressing. Does the pedal keep moving away from you? If so suspect the brake master cylinder or 'head cylinder' as you have called it. Has the car lost brake fluid or does the level continue to drop without obvious or visible leaks? Could be the servo seals leaking and the engine sucking the fluid away. Peter W PS if you have refilled the brake fluid did you use the correct specification/type of fluid for what is in the car. Mixing Dot4 with silicon (SBF) causes the seals to swell and stick.
  9. Last new one I sold was in the 1980's, and that was to a German TR Owner. Peter W
  10. All together now..... Snake Oil Truthfully I do not know but as you remark the youtube stuff is filled with get rich quick would be millionaires seeking approval of an unknown item. Peter W PS the low pressure on No3 might indicate a leaking valve. Have you tried the' compressed air in the cylinder through the spark plug hole' trick and listened for air leaks through carb or exhaust? Could guide you to perhaps removing the head and decoking/re-seating all the valves. See Bob's recent post on this of this:-
  11. If your starter looks like this one take the end plate off the solenoid housing, (that is the bit with the battery cable connection not the round part) Remove the car battery terminals first. Pull out the plunger and clean the contact disc and contact terminals and refit. I have experienced the issue of dirty/corroded contacts on these units and that simple clean up with a fine emery or wet'n'dry fixed it. Refit car battery terminals. Test Cheers Peter W
  12. I. Is the bottom UJ seizing? Sold a lot of these over the years simply because they had seized and gone notchy. 2. Are the top coupling and bottom UJ both in alignment rotationally? There is a possibility when assembling to get this wrong if the shaft has a groove all the way round for the clamp bolt to run in, rather than a milled flat as the upper shaft has, which ensures correct alignment. Peter W
  13. Have you seen pages 4 and 5 of this pdf? They give the instruction for rod end float to be 1/32" and rotational of 1/16" Mine are a lot more but still function correctly. http://tr4a.weebly.com/uploads/2/1/9/8/21980360/type_hs_tuning__tervicing.pdf Cheers Peter W
  14. Here is the link rod slop on my car IMG_6149.MOV
  15. Clunk is good. Glad you checked the piston in chamber drop speed, I had a pair of carbs that had differing drop rates on the pistons and swapping them solved it. As Bob noted are the butterfly spindles correctly centred now the butterfly discs are seating? Are both the link rods between each carb butterfly/choke sloppy side to side and not binding? You can have a bit of rattle if that allows the chokes and throttles of each carb to move independently and not bind. Cheers Peter W
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