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About BlueTR3A-5EKT

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  • Location
    Pinner Middlesex
  • Cars Owned:
    Powder Blue TR3A, BR Green TR2, Phantom Grey TR3A
    Maker of original style aeroscreen mounting brackets

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  1. Repairable. Measure the diameter of the old screw so you know the maximum size to drill to. ( is it 3 mm?) Thread I think is UNC - either No 6 (3.5mm) or 8 (4.1 mm). I'd spot the end of the broken screw first to get a good starting point as it is not squarely broken Then drill down with a 2 or 2.5 mm to start with. If you over do the drilling you can always re tap to the next size up. If you get the hole size right you could always CAREFULLY fit a self tapping screw of the correct diameter. If you force it in and break it you will have a bigger problem as the self tappe
  2. Was it in an episode of 'The Goodies' where they were building a car to win a race? Remember also the hand signal device - Turning Left, Turning Right, Turning Nasty A question was raised about the lack of a windscreen and somewhere to put the rear view mirror, and the swift reply was - "we want to know where we are going not where we have beeen"
  3. I think the drums would have to have been glowing for that to really affect the fluid and the seals. Pump 100ml of new brake fluid through both the furthest front cylnders if you are really concerned. In use the brakes will get very hot, if they have been overheated you will notice burning or glazing in the drums and on the shoe friction material. Off at a tanget - I have a few spare new and used Lockheed front and rear brake parts including back plate & springs somewhere - is any one interested? Peter W
  4. This is Stuarts A post bracing. He will correct me if it was not his photo I have reproduced
  5. This is the kit most are using Lucas pt no SFB 300 You would probably have to change the flasher relay in it to suit LED bulbs, but that is not a major problem as that unit is readily available. https://www.autoelectricsupplies.co.uk/product/215 I write this and realise you are not in UK. I’d expect to pay GB£ 30-40 for the full Lucas kit. Ebay USA finds a lot of uk sellers offering the kit. https://www.ebay.com/sch/i.html?_from=R40&_trksid=p2380057.m570.l1313&_nkw=lucas+SFB300&_sacat=0
  6. Tidied up and fully fixed the overdrive logic controller made and supplied by RogerH the box is up by the master cylinder pocket. I modified an original switch casing to get the momentary switch installed and the ‘on’ warning LED. Works as expected. Now have to remember to not switch out of overdrive when changing gear as the box does all that for me. The warning light is dimmable when the instrument lights are on, a very welcome feature for night driving. Thank you Roger. Peter W
  7. Just be sure to carry a spare blade type fuse of the right rating if you use that type of unit. Although as it is only the spot lamps it is not a 'fail to get you home' issue. Cheers Peter W
  8. This is from some ancient notes I have for the Triumph Tune replacement set for TR5/6 TT1207 Inner 46.5 free length 18.95 O/d Outer 42.5 free length 28.25 o/d It could be all rubbish......
  9. If you were in the USA you would have your lawyers on standby. Any one on here heard of a special pump for a TR2-4 wet liner engine to clear the alloy sump? The TR2-4A wet liner engines all had the same oil pump fitted part number 200155 Or as Limora call it 2884 https://www.limora.com/en/triumph/triumph-tr2-to-tr4a-1953-1967/engine/oil-sump/ Ask Limora, who clearly think they are specialists, to provide you with this special pump or even a photo of it as they do not list it. The only oil pump modification for an alloy sump that I have ever seen is a shorthand pick up e
  10. Hi Alex, Lucas 39415 ignition switch NOS Lucas red box. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/255645925192 Also from the usual suspects. Triumph no 579085 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/switch-ignition-579085.html?assoc=131105
  11. Would help if I bothered to read your original post properly. Sorry. Peter W on my car which has a replacement apron….. The holes are 4” or 100 mm from the boot channel measured along the panel surface with a bendy ruler. The centre hole, which is the stud in the letter U, is 15 mm offset from the centre line of the apron. You can check that on your TRIUMPH letter emblem. The outer 2 holes are easy to locate once the off set centre hole is positioned on masking tape.stuck to the car. Rough sketch and photo Cheers Peter W
  12. Which letters? Ribbed or dished. The pin spacing is different There is a template in “Technicalities” if my memory serves me right.
  13. Item 38 here https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/steering-suspension/steering/steering-tr5-6-1967-76.html
  14. Sorry chaps. My mistake. The gear is one tooth the other way. The design of the pinion housing permits the rack to move in or out of mesh with the pinion by the use of an adjustable half cup. Peter W
  15. Agree it looks as though repairing old original racks may be the only way to go unless the security of the steel tube can be assured by the repro rack maker. You can make a sort of ‘quick’ rack with original items. You need a pinion from a very early Herald with the solid mounted rack like an early TR4, and fit it in your TR rack. It has a different amount of teeth than the standard TR item. It is what Lotus used to specify and is covered in Costin and Phipps book on chassis design and build. Good section in there about the ratio of readily available racks at the time of writing.
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