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BlueTR3A-5EKT last won the day on December 10

BlueTR3A-5EKT had the most liked content!

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About BlueTR3A-5EKT

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  • Location
    Pinner Middlesex
  • Cars Owned:
    Powder Blue TR3A, BR Green TR2, Phantom Grey TR3A
    Maker of original style aeroscreen mounting brackets

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  1. This all depends on if you have plugs inside the ends of your rocker shaft. Original shafts do not have internal plugs and the end caps, which seal the ends of the shaft tube are retained by solid pins; that create an oil seal where they are pushed in the end cap holes. Split pins will not form an oil tight seal in the end cap. I have seen repro shafts that have internal end caps in them from new. So, check your rocker shaft for internal end caps if you intend to use split pins. Peter W
  2. The dimension given on the top of the original TR6 pinion head that I have seen was -3, -2, -1, N +1, +2, +3. Also etched on the pinion head was a number that matched it to its paired crown wheel. The dimension is from the standard setting (N) in thousandths of an inch. So if you have an ORIGINAL factory diff that is fitted with a pinion having -1 on the pinion head you should replace with the same or 0.001" adjustment to pinion height will be required to get back to original setting. The TR6 diff has an adjusting washer between the head of the pinion and the big pinion bearing, which sets the pinion height. This adjusting washer must be installed with a new pinion or the height will be all to cock. The sizes and part numbers of these adjusting washer I think is only given in the Triumph Parts Technical Information sheets, not the parts books. The rigid axle TR2/3/4 as far as I have found do not use this adjusting washer. In these the pinion height is set by shims between casing and big pinion bearing outer race. I have no idea about modern replacement CW&P sets. Cheers Peter W
  3. I sealed all the edges and joints using gaffer tape. Looks naff but keeps out fumes and is easy to remove Peter W
  4. Absolutely right for the TR2/3/4 version, do not know about the later cars. My friend got his money back from them. Peter W PS Also be careful of Winner Racing in China for TR2/3/4. (They had a a positive review from a forum user for TR6) They use the wrong diameter main hose tubes, meaning the rubber hose never seal, and they fit small diameter pressure caps (Think Rice Rocket motor bike.) Again, got the money back.
  5. Peter, Do not forget that the TR250 had two vacuum capsules, one for advance and one for retard. The retard was controlled by throttle spindle position I think. This may be of use to anyone converting a TR250. Cheers Peter W
  6. Two speed 14W have a third carbon brush as far as I can work out, hence the extra (5th) wire. As an aside...TR5/6 PI fuel pump uses the same design & fitting brush plate assembly but it has only two brushes. The owners are often thrown when they open the motor to find a brush plate with only two brushes and in their repair kit they have a brush plate with 3 brushes. The three brush plate being used universally to supply both conditions. Surely if you have a TR4/4/5 and are converting to a 14W motor AND you need wheel boxes...just fit the Lucas wheel boxes from a TR6/MGB/XJ6 with a 115 degree wiper motor gear in the 14W. No need to chase 90 degree gear or use rotten quality remade TR4/5 wheel boxes. Cheers Peter W
  7. Are all 14W motors two speed? Did not early Range Rover use a 14W as a rear wiper - That is where my single speed washer & wipe switch came from. Might even be the source for 90 degree gears. I know, count the wires or open them and count the brushes. Cheers Peter W
  8. Here's a Volvo 135x90x15 space saver spare in the TR spare wheel hole. You can get your hand in the gap above the tyre. This is it I think https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/184061643808 Cheers Peter W
  9. Just done that job Bought seal and mandrel from TR Shop Peter W
  10. The Rear engine lifting bracket....that is attached to the rear RH head stud and exhaust manifold stud - the one that is missing from your engine. Moss USA https://mossmotors.com/lifting-bracket-rear
  11. Do not forget to use Castrol B373 in the diff. https://www.demon-tweeks.com/uk/castrol-b373-lsd-diff-oil-cas154f3b/?utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=MPX_UK_SEA_G_None_DT_DSA&utm_term=%2Fuk%2F&utm_content=All Pages&gclid=CL3SoOS5kuYCFU2ZGwodhoQOUA&gclsrc=ds Which first gear do you have in your gearbox? The late TR 6 one is better with 4.1 ratio. Peter W
  12. Air injection tubes for the NAS smog control on TR 6 Peter W
  13. You’d have to ask them. it will be a quantity of factors from the company who made a sub assembly with tools Heritage did not own, going bust and the accountants selling off everything to a scrap dealer or the highest bidder, (think Fray the badge & emblem maker here), to the theft of tools by those wishing to profit from selling scrap metal (aluminium tools for plastic blow moulds) Tools are big lumps that may not be clearly labelled so could be collected by the wrong press shop and then not returned. Tools are not kept on site at press shops unless they are in continuous use and therefore pay their ground rent. Old airport runways are good for storing press tools on in what look like large steel ant hills. Additionally tools for 1000 off production runs do not lend themselves commercially to the 10 off the classic car industry might want to buy once a year. Storing the other 990 panels in pristine condition for the next 90 years demand is expensive on space etc. This is why Cox & Buckles got involved in prototype tooling using kirksite and jabroc for use in a rubber press. Find me a big rubber press today with affordable & accessible hourly rates...... it was rubber pressed sills from C&B that were fitted to TR6 shells & I have idea where those tools are now. Peter W
  14. and that is what the Li in the part number means...length inside. 975 was the specified outside length for a TR fan belt. Hence the old Unipart pt no GFB 40975. The first 2 numbers (I think) after GFB (general fan belt) define the width, the remaining numbers are the outer length in mm. So 20 mm wide 975 long on the outside. Tedious, as all the fan belt measuring equipment I have ever seen measures the length inside. Peter W
  15. If the thread goes all the way into the water way what stops the plug from screwing all the way in and being lost? The thread in the head may be tapered. In which case I would say .....DO NOT CLEAR THE THREAD IN THE HEAD WITH A TAP. Or the plug may not seal. The tightness you are feeling after a couple of turns of the new plug may be the tapered thread binding on the plug and making a seal. Peter W
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