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Everything posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT

  1. Obstruction wrench Not sure the open end will stand up to the intended torque. Does not take long to remove the 4 nuts that hold the rocker shaft and you will have to check the tappets after torquing the head any way.
  2. This Worked for me. https://www.flexolite.co.uk/categories/flexolite-fuel-pumps-repair-kits-regulators-and-filters.
  3. If it is a Lucas alternator the wife belt dynamo pulley is a direct fit. If Nippon Denso alternator the pulley recess where the nut goes needs enlarging/adjusting on a lathe to give sufficient clearance for nut that holds the pulley to the alternator shaft. ND units do not have a woodruff key shaft. I have had no issues with this using old wide belt dynamo pulleys.
  4. If I am after larger tins/quantities I use Paragon Paints. Vast colour range and brilliant brushing quality They also do a range of workshop machinery original manufacturer’s colours. https://www.paragonpaints.co.uk/home.php
  5. Best way I found when selling these is as Stuart says they slope to the outside of the car. I would open the hinge and look at the bigger bit that fits to the boot lid. The slope. Is then quite obvious
  6. I have a NOS shortened aluminium end cap for a 4 cyl oil pump made specifically to give clearance when an aluminium sump is fitted. It is for sale PM me if you need it
  7. My guess is that the original rivet is 1/8”. Or 3.2mm in foreign. So a 3 mm would do as a good starter if worried start at 2.5 mm or 3/32”. Roger will step in here with the number drill size. #31 or #32 I think. Perhaps just using a 1/8” drill to take the top or head of the rivet off that is visible then punch through the remaining stem That way you do not drill the sill panel hole any bigger Peter W
  8. Problem is also visible with different oil filters. Notable paper to felt. I noted a drop in Oil pressure with felt type filters. From MGC applications. Who knows the flow resistance of the current batch of paper filters ?
  9. Any one want a set of brackets to fit rear tube shocks? I think I have a set somewhere that never got fitted. No shocks though.
  10. http://www.hottr6.com/triumph/tr6cams.html does this help? 105 for CP. 110 for CR
  11. Has the car always had DOT4? Or just during your ownership/full hydraulic system renewal
  12. Original ammeter for TR2/3/4 is made by Lucas not Jaeger
  13. The connector hose for that cap would have had a half circle cut out to clear the breather boss. That way the hose would not have to be eased up over the boss. Either fit a threaded adapter in the hole with a long vent pipe to the outside world beyond the boot or block it and pierce a vent hole in the cap rubber seal as an original PI would have had. Yes the stink of fuel in the boot is compounded by the vent in the filler neck terminating in the boot area.
  14. Yes it is for breather on NAS cars with carbs. Whatever you do be sure the tank has a breather either through that vent via a filter that is fed from outside the car/boot, or through a hole pierced in the rubber seal of the fuel cap
  15. Let us not forget Hengist Pod who invented the square wheel so his bicycle should not roll back on hills ( Carry On ……..,something)
  16. Motul 20W50 is what I am now using. https://projectshop.co.uk/shop/motul/classic-oil/motul-20w-50-classic/ confirmed as having the correct ZDDP for our engines. C90CD5BD-F666-444E-830B-BCE944FC0EE6.webp
  17. Fly leads instead of spades does not indicate 2 speed. Although a lot were. You need to add in reverse parking And the thermal cut out switch (usually a blue wire I think)
  18. The consensus is use 633 and drill/file the locating pin holes out to suit yours.
  19. If you can get a spanner on the lock nut and turn it just 1/4 turn to loosen it, are you then able to unscrew the switch while holding the nut with the spanner.? Image from this site.
  20. there is not a lot of thread left in the standard tube if you move the track rod end outwards by 1/2-3/4” so you need to lengthen yours or use the Revington ones. Fitting the originals left to right/right to left you have a problem getting the mating faces of the lever flat to the mounting points where the bolts come through This can be corrected by grinding away the v post and lever. Or fit washers to space the thing away which moves the levers toward the middle of the car again, loosing the benefit you were hoping for. Revington used to do exchange levers that his local forg
  21. I think it Holds the rear wing to the lamp housing. Rather than welding. Book suggest 2 per wing 4 per car.
  22. Non Starter I fear. MGB discs are thinner than and smaller dia than TR. I guess the offset is wrong too. MGB GT V8 are the same thickness as TR. Those calipers are unique to that car. To create a caliper for that car you need a pair of MGB and a pair of Triumph 2000 calipers. Split them and fit one half of one type with the opposite half from the other. However.... MGC used the same caliper as a TR if that helps. The type used was imperial threaded.
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