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Everything posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT

  1. Do not forget heat treatment I suspect for the finished stud.
  2. Have the bulbs in the rear lamps been replaced recently? It is not uncommon the bend the metal bulb housing back as you push the bulb in That earthing part may be touching the brass terminals that the bulb contacts
  3. My exhaust has been wrapped since 2000. Keeps a lot of heat away from the carbs. Still holds in place but looks tatty now. It is wrapped in foil face asbestos strips from the aircraft world. We used fit a long sleeve of the stuff over pipe work near the turbine/jet pipe of turbine engines to stop those pipes cooking. I merely cut the stitching, flattened the tube to a long sheet and wound it round the stainless manifold pipes, retaining with stainless locking wire. Peter W
  4. Hole was put there by the factory because when it leaks you know either the oil or the fuel seal has failed. They are identical and are fitted back to back. You need to fit both seals once you have removed the drive gear shaft. seals are 103+104. You will also need the O rings 106+116 plus gasket 109 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/tr5-6/engine/engines-components/internal-engine-tr5-6-1967-76.html
  5. I’ll go with that. Flat area is TR4A. Obviously both steel and aluminium tubes were fitted. I have a couple of NOS TR4A heads and they have aluminium push rod tubes. Peter W
  6. What are the tubes in your head made from? Aluminium was used on TR4A. Steel before that. My car has a TR4A head so it has aluminium tubes. We used to sell the tubes as a spare part, mostly to owners who had the problem of leaks. To my mind re punching/swaging them is usually all they really needed. Peter W
  7. Off with the rocker gear and swage the tops of the tubes into the head upper surface/seating area. Use a big ball bearing or lathe centre or turn up a cone punch with a spigot on your lathe. This method has worked for me and the taper punch is still findable in my drifts and punches drawer.
  8. Yes, the plug which is Triumph part number PS1603 is 1" NF thread Just look in the Standard Triumph hardware catalogue.... https://www.canleyclassics.com/standard-triumph-hardware-catalogue-plug-core-screwed Peter W
  9. The 3 notch bracket was introduced when the rear coil spring changed strength/fitted length. TR6 started life with the same bracket notch qty/positioning as TR4A and changed when the springs got firmer. As Stuart has noted change the insulator thickness. Fit the springs without any insulators to get an idea of what the current ones are doing to the ride height/camber. You could go down the adjustable trailing arm bracket route. http://coventrysfinest.blogspot.com/2014/12/setting-rear-camber-goodparts.html https://www.goodparts.com/product-category/suspension/adjustable
  10. Off with the ARB then! Hope my next reply will not be from a bush on the side of the M25 - M40 slip road……..
  11. Repro fuel tank? Mine used to pis**s on lh bends because the internal vent pipe is not installed. Ie tank is made incorrectly. If so I have a solution. Blank the tank breather with a screw in plug. Drill a vent hole in the filler cap inner metal sprung steel seal washer ( as TR4 onwards has as standard) Check your cap as it may already have the vent hole. This mod works fine on my car.
  12. Which way up are the brackets that hold the trailing arm to the chassis. Notches on top or bottom. How many notches in the outer bracket and the inner bracket.? Good starting point is 3 notch inner and 1 notch outer. You are not running original springs by the look of the photos. Those who do this for a living will be along soon. Peter W
  13. You sure it is rear crank seal leak and not the rocker cover gasket or the oil seal under the bolt head of the original oil filter canister I had a ‘rear crank seal leak’. It was the rocker cover gasket leaking. A new cork gasket fixed the problem. Peter W
  14. For my money the first item I would fit is Revington steering arms to reduce bump steer. This is for cars with original steering box not one of the numerous after market rack kits, some that address the bmp steer and others that increase it….. https://www.revingtontr.com/productimages/docs/00001701/is0050-tie-rod-levers-tr2-3b-issue-1.pdf Second item is the bushed steering relay bar and idler assembly with bronze bushes. Again Revington. I fitted a TR 6 front anti roll bar to my car some years ago and the surety on fast corners is reassuring. That said I do have to ‘d
  15. I use two of these fused relays for the main/dip headlamp circuits https://www.onbuy.com/gb/12v-4-pin-30a-fused-relay-with-bracket-12-volt-normally-open-onoff-pack-2~c10960~p23384553/?exta=bingsh&lid=31908459&stat=eyJpcCI6IjEwLjc5MDAiLCJkcCI6IjAuMDAwMCIsImxpZCI6MzE5MDg0NTksInMiOiIxMDAiLCJ0IjoxNjMxNDM5MDgxLCJibWMiOiIxLjAifQ==&exta=bingsh&msclkid=2ce0806126aa12658c10e15e6f566a44&utm_source=bing&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=(GB: SAD) Cars & Automotive&utm_term=4574793010602446&utm_content=(GB: SAD) Cars & Automotive - 12
  16. Brian, I also think the standard gearbox and overdrive give a good combination. All weaknesses and foibles to one side….. I have a friend who swears the Ford Sierra gearbox route, that he has gone, is the way to go. Peter W
  17. CNG? It works in Delhi for all Tuk Tuks https://www.nationalgeographic.com/science/article/120412-delhi-india-auto-rickshaws http://www.backup.ngvjournal.com/japan-bets-on-cng-trucks/ https://www.citizen.co.za/business/business-news/2168975/taxi-industry-turns-to-gas-as-high-petrol-prices-bite/ The wartime solution using coal gas
  18. Which distributor do you have fitted? If the original US spec item, then the vacuum capsule retards the ignition, not advances it. Check that the dash pots of the carbs have oil in them. Peter W
  19. Heritage floor panels from 20 years ago, if dark coloured, would have been primed with an electrophoretic process. That process was the motor industry standard priming coat. Peter W
  20. I knew I put them in the catalogue all those years ago. items 61 to 64 https://www.moss-europe.co.uk/shop-by-model/triumph/spitfire/weather-equipment/hoods-hood-frames-fittings/hood-frame-fittings-spitfire-mkiv-1500-1970-80.html
  21. If the car is still fully Lockheed braked..... Bit more work on a Lockheed car as the pedal box has welded nuts to screw pedal stops into. That thread is wrong for the mechanical switch. Make up a bit of bent steel bracket-work to hold the switch and clamp as and where you can with the plunger pointed as the pedal - Just like a TR4/4A The wiring will need extending as the Lockheed pressuer switch on a RHD car is on the RH side of the engine compartment. Still a good modification away from the pressure switch.
  22. Timing chain tensioner looks like a standard type spring steel thing. Did anyone ever try to fit a couple of Mini A+ spring tensioner that are plastic encased? Mini has a single row chain. https://new.minimania.com/part/12G2621/Classic-Austin-Mini-A-Camshaft-Timing-Chain-Tensioner
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