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BlueTR3A-5EKT

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Everything posted by BlueTR3A-5EKT

  1. Let us go back to basics. Are the rocker clearances (valve lash) to spec?
  2. We have a Head that was attached to an engine purported to be SAH and it is painted red. No ID plate attached. The rest of the engine was uninspired and gave up a SAH 47 cam Waste of time for us road going types.
  3. Agree. Going downwards it goes. Hardtop, spacer, seal, aluminium capping, screen frame, plastic trim on screen frame, plain washer, bolt up through the whole lot into the captive nut in the hardtop. Original bolts are cone pointed to help starting in the hardtop thread and black phosphate finished.
  4. Original alloy sumps hang below the chassis. Shorter versions are available but may require a special oil pump pick up to allow sump fitment.
  5. All is clear now , thank you Stuart.
  6. Thanks Stuart. Offset it will be, but not so much as I cannot operate the side nozzle.
  7. Good article. restore the flaps too with replacement creamy white handles. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/281616447610?hash=item4191a5f87a:g:gP4AAOSwUV9WpAVK
  8. the need for rack length and position is important. Costain and Phipps said the centre of the inner ball joint of the rack had to lie on an imaginary line drawn between the top and bottom inner fulcrums of the wishbones. Ackerman angle is also important for the outer track rod end position. For sidescreen cars Revington has addressed this with bent steering levers…..that actually work as described. this is helpful. https://www.lincolntech.edu/news/hot-rod-garage/eliminate-bump-steer-lincoln-tech-tip
  9. It is why I have gone that way too. My only gripe is that the vents will not fully rotate when fully open. The inner bit strikes the fan case. Moving the fan outside the case gets rid of that problem but makes the heater bigger by 1 1/2”. I have now made a couple of adaptor sleeves to move the vents away from the case enough to allow the fan to be repositioned back inside the case. Stuart. Does the LH demist tube get horribly close to the glove box on RHD cars the way you have installed? I currently have no glove box to test. I notice T7 sell a raft of outlet vents and adapt
  10. Have you got the heater out yet? Does the fan blow ok? Think about looking at the fan motor. Minimum you should do while it is accessible is lubricate the top and bottom bearings properly. Worth taking the motor to bits too if you are confident and cleaning and polishing the commutator. Be really careful not to break the Bakelite internal base plate the wiring and brushes attach to, as they are very delicate. The brushes may need replacing but only worry about that when you see them. Clayton supply a motor, you would need to confirm with them if it is a direct repla
  11. Not a skill I have found in UK which is why we went with the Clayton replacement core
  12. There are a couple of complete replacement ones from the likes of T7. https://www.t7design.co.uk/3-5kw-lightweight-heater-with-side-vents-12v-187-d1e-05a.html This is the type I am about to fit in my car. They require a fitting kit. Revington does a complete kit that comes with fittings at 3 times the price. https://www.revingtontr.com/product/rtr1395k/name/kit-heater-upgrade-tr2-3b I have bought and fitted full assemblies and just the core from Clayton. https://claytonclassics.co.uk/parts-upgrades/heaters/triumph/ annd the whole assembly. https://claytoncla
  13. Read this previous post on diff nose seals Speedo+sleeve 99149 £ 17.00 https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/222282904862?_trkparms=ispr%3D1&hash=item33c117f51e:g:MhQAAOSwoC1fItYj&amdata=enc%3AAQAGAAACoPYe5NmHp%2B2JMhMi7yxGiTJkPrKr5t53CooMSQt2orsSvtkx670Z0mbyfWqmxLFLYTZORpFwqRool6SsAmNYBtT7XDHzUl5%2FqbKy0jvcFshOuEWSMS%2BxkpHipFSeOB0dTsPJYTOyZJwcqkmJhb33gFGG4LCfwwXbXvfKjK2q7%2BbA50koA9V3qvpRIeLLncAWV6JSGIE9X4XK9kc7lTtfaUD9ZFwLv74fKkGYIqjxvQr74T0aTy%2BJhMue3STYMHJOLZVyElBcAUgSu2oC65WUElfWN%2BVEBWyVPfTAmAb4NmJLME3xIhhBLupU3L77qhhRUx37Vabgg%2BZ7zJq9G37dbH%2Fzc9z0qpskSkBn0SUIbCpr9omv
  14. Yes and off the steel plate that closes the bell housing behind the oil pan/sump. My engine was dripping from here and it turned out to be the seal in the base of the oil filter bowl, under the long attachment bolt. New seal fitted at oil change solved that problem.
  15. A very adaptable build. The trays are avaialble commercially https://www.stepsandstillages.co.uk/all-steel-spill-trays-pallets-for-drums-small-containers/252-rectangular-drilled-hole-boxes
  16. So how long did it take you to drill the lightening holes in the metal storage tote trays under the bench? ….and how many small things fall through the holes?
  17. “Spotted” on ebay https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353850974730?hash=item526329620a:g:wG0AAOSwXjlh3Gja
  18. Alternator fitment and conversion Pages from The Unipart Rotating Electrics book. pdf Unipart.pdf
  19. Ahh the Italian Tune Up. Works wonders on engines that have been gently used for years. In your part of the world think about Seafoam or Marvel Mystery oil to work the rings loose.
  20. As Hamish has stated there are updated ones which are harder from different suppliers. We have found the Moss ones to be very hard and transfer vibration. Wrap in cling film or heavy plastic to keep the oil out…..till it gets in and cannot get out My trick once was to fill the void in the gearbox mount with polyurethane sealer. Little bit at a time. Gives a stick on flexible addition and increases the hardness a bit. A better thing would be two part potting like Thiokol PR1440 A or B. If you worked in the aircraft industry it was almost everywhere as a sealer. Cost about £
  21. John, One flat is equal to 0.006” linear jet movement according to SU. http://sucarb.co.uk/technical-su-carburetters Good reading in the above article. Questions for you. Is this engine of yours 83 or 86 mm? Is it a standard cam? Is it a standard high port head and valves? What weight spring is in the carbs? Push it down on the kitchen scales to check? You want 4 ozs which is a spring with a red identifier mark. Heavier springs will richen the entire rpm range Weaker spring does the opposite. If yes to above engine specs then SM needles red springs
  22. The 8-10 flats down. Is that as an adjustment from the engine running ok ish? Or from turning the jets up to be level with the bridge and then setting them downwards to give a basic setting.? Our 2 flats down is from the engines running nicely during the summer.
  23. Brother and I both run 4 cyl TRs and have done since the 70's Typically we would drop the jet by up to 2 flats on each carb for winter running (and curse the lumpy tickover if stuck in traffic) Would raise the jet by one flat each as spring arrived and then summer. Turning down the jet by 8-10 flats says there is something odd going. This is a bit 'suck it and see' I know but works for us. What do other all year TR users do?
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