Richmac

TR7 Haynes manual. Hard back in really good condition. £10 collected from Dunstable Bedfordshire or extra £5 to post to normal parts of the uk. Can take to Shuttleworth on the 8th September and meet there if your going

I have some advertised on here about three pages ago still available

Job completed!! Bolts all took another half turn. Is this normal

Actually I recognise the wording from the TR6 Haynes manual

Thanks bfg just what I need. What manual is that? Am I correct in saying No1 is at radiator end counting back?

Thanks Bob I have also found this link that makes it look easy so I'm going in! A couple of questions before I do though Does the position of the valves before I start make any difference? My book indicates to torque the rocker pedestal, Wayne doesn't? The rocker pedestals are held with normal nuts not nylocks should they have lock tight on them or anything? Is it easier with plugs out? The book suggests giving the engine one revolution on the crank then resetting the tappets to ensure the push rods are engaged correctly. If I do one revol

Thanks Blue for your post. I'm looking at setting my tappets and the sequence. Its not explained in the blue book. In the Haynes manual for my previous TR6 it is explained much more clearly. I was looking for the same thing for the TR4a and I like to have it on a page in front of me instead of the laptop. I will look later at the link you have sent me to see if I can find what I need and print it out Regards Richard

Anybody have a TR4a Haynes manual and brown book surplus to requirements please. I have the TR4 blue book with 4a supplements

So I have managed to break the seal on the rocker cover and can see that the rocker shaft needs to be removed to gain access to the head bolts. The valves are under compression. Can anyone point me to a detailed description of how I do this and put back safely please without damaging anything. I have searched internet and looked in the blue book but simply says 'remove' but can see rockers should be loosened before refitting. I'm scared stiff of messing it up

Thanks for all the info. Better get on it Richard

My new to me TR4a has had extensive work carried out to the engine. I believe after such surgery the head should be re-torqued. I went to do this the other day and what ever sealant was used has stuck the rocker cover solid. I couldn't break the seal even hitting it with a rubber mallet. So my next attack will be with a chisel or screwdriver. However because of the extra unanticipated work required I would like to leave this job until the winter. So my question please is how important is it to re-torque the head after work? What is the likely outcome if I don't do it? And will it be ok to leav

Hi Peter I need a washer knob, mine has lost its emblem, and is the third one in for the rheostat? Mine looks like the wrong one? I would like yours if I could please

All back together now and everything working as it should including flashers. I'm happy apart from the quality of the part. I don't expect it to last long. Thanks once again for your expertise I couldn't have fixed it myself without your continued support

Hi Rob I don't have the receipt for the switch. And no can't support the rivets from the back. It's going back in until I can find a decent quality one. Thanks for your help

Hi Rob I'm not getting anything through brown to blue now. How could I tighten up the rivets Rob and do you think its worth putting an inline fuse on brown and blue white please?