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About Richmac

  • Birthday 05/06/1964

Profile Information

  • Location
    Dunstable, Bedfordshire
  • Cars Owned:
    Sunbeam Alpine, Morris Minors

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120 profile views
  1. Thanks Roger I appreciate your help
  2. Thanks Guys I have googled the Hawkeye system and found a garage near to me. I will give them a call and see if they are comfortable with TRs and know the correct settings Thanks again
  3. So finally took the TR6 for a mot retest after redoing the leaking brakes that failed and the advise of track rod ends and now have 12 months MOT. So took the car for a blast expecting the steering to feel tight and responsive with two new track rod ends but it felt more like driving a boat instead of how I remember it. So my question is, is it normal for my car to wander and float around after fitting new track rod ends until I get the tracking done? If not could I have inadvertently done something? The only other thing I done was swap the wheels around so different make and older tyres on th
  4. APPROX 0.006' !! Wow I also tried to measure mine but don't have the skill or the toys to measure that accurately but the depth of the concave part of the piston to the front of the flange that goes into the servo was around the same as the depth of the flange so it should have been ok with the push rod being .02 below the servo. I also put some blue tack on the end of the cylinder and pushed into the push rod and they didn't touch metal to metal but I didn't tighten the bolts. In the end I turned the nut in 1/4 of a turn (easy once I blocked the brake pedal down. thanks for the tip) I have p
  5. Hi John Yes my measurement was imperial. I cant take a picture of the mounting end of the cylinder yet as its still connected to the car by the brake lines. I will take it of when my bag of willpower arrives. I am reluctant to start taking it apart on the assumption that it could be the plastic seal. If I had the skill I would have rebuilt the unit myself but have read on here rebuilding can have limited success. I paid Past parts to rebuild for me as experts and they assure me they test the unit on the bench before they send them out. I would like to know what the measurement from the c
  6. Thank you Chris and John for trying to help me all useful tips and much appreciated. The thing is I already have a gap across the servo of .02 So if it won't bleed at that then I am in to guess work. I was thinking is there a measurement for the master cylinder push rod to the face of the cylinder so I can measure what I have a work out what I am trying to achieve? Also I can't see whats wrong with making up a gasket to fit between the cylinder and the servo. Would this not achieve the same outcome?
  7. Thanks guys for trying to help me but now I'm struggling to move the nut by holding the serrated part of the shaft with pliers and just succeeding in tearing it up. I guess its on with lock tight so I decided to launch my spanner across the garage, lock the door and open a beer. I'll look to see if I can buy a large bag of mixed inspiration and willpower and come back to it another day. Poxy heap of s### I only started with a leaking wheel cylinder.
  8. Sorry call me stupid I have read previous threads and I still don't get it. My push rod has a nut at the top and what looks like a tapered edge further down the thread?? I'm guessing I have to some how hold the push rod on the tapered edge and screw the push rod down further into it or turn the domed nut further down? But thats easier said than done. But first I have to get it of to put some lock tight on it and all the while I have greater than .012 gap anyhow?
  9. Thanks for all the help. Big difference between .01 and 1/8. If its not critical I'm thinking a bit of free play is a good thing?
  10. Thanks John. It suggests in the Haynes manual to do this with the engine running. Is this necessary? Also I have quite a bit of play in the push rod I can pull and push it at a guess 5mm back and forth so its not locked as such and I can turn it with my fingers as well should it be loose like this?
  11. Ok so I tried to bleed at the cylinder and I was not getting any fluid through. I rang Pastparts and they suggested the push rod maybe was not fully returning to the closed position. So I loosened of the master cylinder fixing nuts to allow the master cylinder to move forward and sure enough I can now get fluid to pump out of the master cylinder brake pipe connection. I have seen on previous posts that some people have packed out the cylinder from the servo to achieve the correct setting however they have also been slated for doing this. Looking in the haynes manual it says the push rod can be
  12. Thanks for your reply Peter. I have just had a look and I cant see that I have one of those fitted to my car.
  13. Thanks Chris I shall do as you suggest
  14. Yes both sides of the reservoir are full
  15. Sorry to ask. I have spent the last hour or so looking through past posts but am still confused. I have just re-fitted my brake master cylinder after a rebuild by past parts. Bled the rears no problem but nothing at the front. I undone the pipe connection from the master cylinder and there is nothing coming out of the cylinder even if the pedal is depressed. I have read the other posts and it looks like I should have bench bled the master cylinder before fitting? I have now wedged the pedal to the floor and will leave over night as suggested in other posts. Is this all I can do? And is this co
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