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Everything posted by Richmac

  1. I must admit that if the only reason PI cars have 'H' rated tyres is the additional top speed over the CC and CF that are 'S' or 'T' rated then I tend to agree with you. However I haven't made my mind up yet. Regards Richard
  2. Thanks for sharing the link Stuart. Looking at 165's though its saying it doesn't have enough data and only lists Maxxis or Hankook. Hard to see what others they were tested against. My car also has 195's which I think are to wide. Seems a few people on here that fit, and are quite happy with the Vredestein. I was thinking maybe the Continental CT22 might be better though being a leading brand what do you think? Your not going down the 'H' rated then? Its a minefield when you can't tell what your getting for your money. I don't want to pay hundreds of pounds just for a classic tread pattern
  3. I'm even more confused now. Why would that be?
  4. Wow Rob interesting discussion on the link you provided. So from the experts mouth we should be fitting at least H rated tyres to all our vehicles regardless. Well thats certainly changed my point of view. Thanks for posting Rob. Just what I wanted from this forum I'm a little wiser than I was yesterday.
  5. Talking to my local tyre fitter he suggested that the speed rating was more than just 'speed' but strength in cornering at speeds of 50 mph? He also had a poor opinion of the Vredestein tyres calling them 'just a budget tyre'
  6. Thanks Rob. I saw that in the manual but didn't know what the 'HR' stood for. Thank you John for clearing that up for me so clearly. Its not about skimping on tyres. Its more about getting value for money hence the postings. I want to learn from long term owners who have driven and used various types over the years or tyre experts who know the construction or how how the rating is worked out and applied. I am trying to learn the difference, or what more I am getting for paying £200 for a Michelin XAS over paying £70 for a Continental CT22 which is the two I am edging towards. Both qualit
  7. I apologise for using the 'T' word as I know there are many threads on the matter and its testing the patience of some on here. However I have searched here, on Google and looked in the manuals and can't find anywhere the definitive answer to the speed rating required for TR6 tyres. Can someone please point me to where I see for sure the speed rating required? Or were the cars just originally shod with 'H' Rated boots? And would this still be applicable 50 years on? It makes a quite a difference in price and therefore choice when searching for replacements. Took car for the first essential jou
  8. Is that on a TR6 Dave? Are they ok as that is what I'm thinking of replacing mine with?
  9. No I only bought the car last year and noticed slight cracking in the side wall a few weeks later. Do you re=boot in new Michelin at £1000 every five years?
  10. Does the speed rating matter that much if i'm not going to go over 118mph? Looking to put my TR6 back to original size but can't bring myself to pay silly money. I'll replace my two 195 perished tyres with the same size if I can't find a reasonably priced 165 alternative.
  11. Well I wont be buying those thats to much Whats wrong with these?
  12. At risk of hijacking this post but are the classics not 200 quid each as apposed to 50ish for the Vredestein? Is there really that much difference in the performance?
  13. +1 for the motorola I'm on my second. Hated I phone had a preset life built in i believe and the cost, for what???. I also have a works samsung thats not as good as the motorola
  14. Rodger the sum total of my engineering tools are files that I bought new for my project and a couple of old tools hidden in my tool box
  15. Wow I envy you guys with the skills you have developed and can now use to your own devices throughout your life. All I can do is boss and weld lead and that has limited uses. However your never to old as they say. So I thank you for your comments especially Mick for his wise words I'm going to practice on a scrap piece first. Thanks again Richard
  16. Sky also done this at my house to climb a single story to flat roof! I would seriously consider placing permanent anchor points around the house if you were intending to carry out this task regularly and buy a normal ladder + fit leaf guards
  17. Thanks for the replies. I think I may be over thinking this but the further I get in to building my tool the more worried I am about making a mistake and having to start again and I am acutely aware that I cant add any material if I take to much off.........
  18. Thanks Rob Would an engineer do such a thing by eye? To suggest 0.8 mm leads me to feel 0.9mm would be a fail?
  19. Thanks Rodger. 0.8mm by eye? Hmm
  20. Hi All I'm trying to learn some engineering skills by making a small clock hand removing tool out of 5mm silver steel rod. I'm following some instructions taken from a sample paper. I am not used to working with files nor working to exact measurements. I have reached stage 8 8) File a small chamfer all round this end. To do this, clamp a block of wood in the vice with the top protruding above the vice jaws. Hold the rod against the block at an angle of 45 degrees and file a small flat at this angle. Then turn the rod through about an eighth of a circle (rotation) and file another sim
  21. Ladders are class rated for their intended use. A class 1 will be much more stable than a domestic ladder but heaver. I would go for at least Class EN131 and get a helper to foot the ladder when using it Regards Richard
  22. Thanks for sharing your experience with us Adrian always useful to learn from other peoples experience and good of you to take the time to share. Regards Richard
  23. Reading the latest TR Action Magazine and I see in the events section the London classic car show at Syon Park. Went to book tickets on line and they are £26.62!! Adds up to expensive day out when you want 4 tickets. On the web it has a box for a discount code. Does anybody know if the club have, or are going to, arrange a discount for this show at all please? Regards Richard
  24. See reply from the online tyre supplier I used and queried. Don't think I will be using them to source tyres for the TR if they think five year old tyres are ok to supply 'We do not hold our own stock of tyres, they are sourced from external suppliers who ship them onto the customer or garages directly. We therefore do not see the tyres, nor do we get any information regarding dot codes on the tyres as our suppliers cannot guarantee what will be sent. Tyres are classed as "new" and fit for purpose up to 5 years from the manufacturing date. Our suppliers do advise the majority of orders wi
  25. Just an interesting add worth noting I replaced my tyres on my daily driver today and when I looked the manufacture date was February 2019. Not to worried about my daily driver but I'm looking to buy two new tyres for TR6 soon and given that age rather than wear is whats going to kill my classic tyres I would be gutted to lose 20% already!!
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