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Richardtr3a last won the day on April 6

Richardtr3a had the most liked content!

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About Richardtr3a

  • Birthday 09/19/1943

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  • Location
    London sw6
  • Cars Owned:
    Old buildings
    Golden retrievers

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  1. Thanks for the help. I had read the manual and thought that I had it correctly fitted. The important adjustments are the lever at 12.00 and the cancelling arm at 6.00. The orientation of the stator tube slot is not significant.?? I have been trying to knock down a garden wall made of wine bottles and cement, without cutting myself. today. Back on the TR on Wednesday. Thanks for the clear advice, Richard & B.
  2. I am late to add to this thread but I have read it all over the last few weeks. My indicators were cancelling well. I was overhauling the steering and I changed the steering box. When lining up the stator tube with the slot at 12 o'clock the full head assembly would not slide in correctly. If I move the stator by rotating it to the left to a new position, the head slides on and the cancellation works, BUT only at full lock. Nothing in the steering head has been changed. I rebuilt it years ago with a spare on the bench as a pattern. What has happened? It is the same head ,wiring, stator tube and steering wheel. Thanks Richard & B
  3. A great pair of girls and a very good car. WELL DONE++ Richard and B.
  4. The front apron was the removed at the start and came off easily. Once the radiator was fully in view it showed a leak and was sent away for overhaul. The radiator company collected and delivered with no extra charge as they were collecting in my area anyway. I have replaced the entire steering column with a second hand one from a friend and it came with one tie rod with a ball joint each end. It took me a while to notice that it was over an inch longer than my original. I called the friend and the garage who took it off a TR3 with minilite wheels. But no one could explain it. Did any cars have a longer tie rod ?? This suspicious one is bright plated and the ball joints are not so fully inserted as my own originals so that the entire assembly is too long by about 1 1/2 " Unfortunately the owner is no longer with us and his wife has a driver when she wants to use it. Probably not interested in tie rod lengths. Any advice? Thanks Richard & B.
  5. I had the same adjustment problems with my 3A clutch for many years. In the end it was discovered by my local garage that the push rod was too short. We checked the Moss catalogue and there are different mounting plates and pushrods for the Lockheed or the Girling. It turns out that I had the Lockheed parts on my Girling slave cylinder. I bought the new correct parts and it works as it should , connected in the correct hole. Are you sure that you have the right parts.? It took me years to work it out. Good luck. Richard and B.
  6. I am sure that te split column is easier. I have already removed the front apron. luckily I used stainless steel fixings last time. It looks as if I may have to take off the cross member bolted between the turrets. I hope not. thanks
  7. Thanks for all the advice. I used a tapered shaped chisel and a hammer and all the joints are now split. I was expecting to pull out the steering box easily. But it looks to be too big to fit through the chassis and body space So now I need advice on how to manoeuvre the box and shaft out. I can not have to take the body off the chassis. Any help would be very useful. I had to stop this evening because it was cold, windy and damp. I must get a bigger garage so that I can close the doors. Thanks Richard and B
  8. I am trying to remove the tie rod ball joint ends and the silent-bloc pins. After the whole afternoon I managed to release one ball joint. The silent-bloc pins are hard to reach and will not budge even with a long lever. There is no room for a hammer. Do I need a special tool ? Please let me know if there is a special technique ?? Richard & B
  9. Where did you buy the hood. Mine only fits on one side. Please let us know. Richard & B
  10. Always repair the original. Cox automotive are good at it but be sure that the connections are the correct thread after the rebuild. Ask me how I know ??? Richard & B
  11. This thread has gone very quiet. I am sure that someone has noticed the drawing in the ST manual. Maybe it has become a bit boring for the forum ? Let me know Richard
  12. Hi, I a reading this thread more carefully now. I have a Service Instruction Manual no.502602. The Girling brakes are shown on page 4 of the TR3 supplement Brakes. This drawing is also reproduced in the Autopress Workshop Manual by Kenneth Ball.page 107. This shows the lining on the rear brake shoes does not cover the entire length of the shoe. It is about 1 " short at the end by the cylinder piston for the top shoe and about the same 1" short on the lower shoe at the adjuster end. Moss Catalogue shows a different orientation. At the moment I am not sure which way mine is installed. Update; My adjuster is at about 10.00 o'clock and the cylinder is at 4.00 o'clock on the LHS. The handbrake cable has a clear run to the pivot so it looks correct. The linings have been a worry for well over 10 years. If there is any help on the forum I would be very pleased. Meanwhile I will strip out the backplate and make sure it is flat. This seems to be a logical answer. But not until I have fitted the new steering. Richard & B
  13. Stuart, That really does sound like a good answer. When it gets warmer I will have the back plate out for inspection. What do you think about the lining not covering the entire shoe as shown in the catalogue ? Richard & B
  14. I had the same problem myself for a long time. I did have a thread on here years ago. My answer at the time was during one week end ,in the Cotswolds, I ran the car for six miles slowly with the handbrake slightly on. It got very hot.This made a difference but not significantly. I loosened the adjuster by two turns and it was fine but not much handbrake. I had my local welder lengthen the handbrake lever by about 1/2" to give greater travel. It is more or less all right now but not as safe as I would like. I have often noticed in the ST workshop manual, that the 10"Girling back brake linings do not fully cover the shoe. I am always planning to get the angle grinder out and trim back my linings. But there always seems to be something more important to be getting on with. I am hoping that we find an answer on this thread. Richard & B
  15. I have just found this thread. My car is positive earth. I bought a unit with three sockets and one usb . I wired the earth cable from the socket to A3 with an inline fuse and took the power cable from the charger to a nearby earth point. I can use the Sat Nav and charge the phone at the same time. It is mounted on the dashboard mounting strip and I used plastic nut and bolt as a precaution. It works very well. Richard & B.
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