Jump to content

Richardtr3a

TR Register Members
  • Content Count

    1,834
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Richardtr3a last won the day on May 31

Richardtr3a had the most liked content!

Community Reputation

9 Neutral

About Richardtr3a

Contact Methods

  • Website URL
    http://
  • ICQ
    0

Profile Information

  • Location
    London sw6
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3
    Old buildings
    Golden retrievers
    Family
    Wine

Recent Profile Visitors

1,034 profile views
  1. Past Parts did a very high quality job on my cylinder. The price is worth it if you can stop working on the problem and bleeding air out. Go for it Richard & B.
  2. After two evenings looking for the vent pull rod, I gave up and was about to close the order with Moss but was held back by the £5.00 postage. This morning I moved the socket extensions to get the socket case out and there it was. If you stop looking you find it ??? Thanks for all the advice so far but there will be more. Richard & B.
  3. You are quite right. My mistake in the first post. The set up is complete and works well. I do need two more ball/stud and the long rod to replace mine which was home made years ago and will soon wear out. Bell crank is now working as designed. After a vary busy few days I have fitted the bonnet and windscreen and made it to the SDG annual Cannonball run last night. Sun out and many cars including TR7 Cola car, Porsche and a lowered VW beetle. Great drive. After having the scuttle painted last week I have refitted the capping and lost the button/rod which opens the vent. It is in the garage but has disappeared. Where can I find another? Sorry about BSF should be UNF Thanks Richard & B.
  4. The connecting short link rod assembly has a threaded end to the ball joint. The Bell Crank Lever Assembly had a small hole. So since I had to drill it out I decided to tap the thread and make the assembly more secure. The lever bought from a large supplier was made with the raised bush, to clear the fixing bolt for the pivot bracket, was raised on the wrong side, I had my local welder change it. The reason for my drill packs of ten bits, were only £2.00 is because they overheat before you have finished the first hole. You get what you pay for. Richard & B.
  5. Thanks for the help. The forum is great. At our local steam fair there was a tool stall. They had some imperial drill bits in packs of 10 ,all the same size, for £2.00. I bought a few at random and after searching the garage I found a pack of 7/32" So I am on the road by this evening. Thanks Richard & B.
  6. Please can you let me know the correct drill size for a 1/4 BSF tap. I hope to fix it tomorrow Thanks Richard & B.
  7. While reading this thread I notice that the linings on the brake shoes does not fully cover the shoe. This appears to be correct for all TRs except my 10" Girling back brakes. i am having my shoes recovered by a specialist and I am thinking of having the linings made shorter, in the hope that this will make my handbrake adjustment work for the first time in many years. Please help with some advice Thanks Richard and B.
  8. And entrance cost £9.00 Each exhibitor has a number and the highest number that I saw was 1098. So quite busy.
  9. Thanks for the help so far. It seems that all the 9" linings leave about 1" of the shoe bare at one end. The 10" shoes do not have this configuration. Why should it be different. Once I know I will be able to understand my handbrake problems. Please explain. Richard and B.
  10. We spent three days at the Laughton Cuckoo steam fair in Sussex. It is a 40 acre site with an area for classic cars and there were three TR3 and many other interesting cars of all sorts. The show includes all types of steam engines and many displays of different sorts including a real Circus, a model circus tent, a display of bicycles, British Bike clubs, cross country rides in an Army tank and sledge pulling. There was also a Rock band , a Jazz band, The Lipsticks a R&R girl singers group and a Neil Diamond tribute who was very good. The bar is open all day and you can camp overnight if you need to. Next one is the Autumn fair Richard & B.
  11. He knows a great deal about the TR cars and is very helpful. He took my gearbox out and replaced it after the overhaul quickly and very neat job. His name is Alan and he is very helpful. Good luck Richard & B.
  12. Yesterday I opened up mt 10" rear brakes to check the linings. They are worn out so I need some new shoes. In my manual, Autopress Workshop Manual. the linings do not full cover the metal shoe. I have never found these anywhere. So I plan to buy the best quality and modify them at home. I also note that my backplate has no hold down pegs. Maybe I have a later back plate with only a small post and no springs and cupped washers. The main question is where to buy the best brake shoes. Thanks Richard and B
  13. The mechanical switch is a great idea and is a future project for me. This evening I jacked up the car, pulled off the wheel and checked the switch terminals again. After some poking around I was unable to get a reading from the cable to the lights. I then pressed the pedal and the lights went on, and on release they went. off So the problem is solved. Trs can be self repairing !!! However I reversed back into the garage and found that the handbrake was already on. The car moved smoothly and easily. Next job is to adjust the brakes which should be easy ?? Thanks for the advice and luckily it was not needed. Richard & B
  14. I spent the last two weeks of free time fitting a new steering column and ball joints, and an overhauled starter. The radiator went for servicing after a small leak was noticed. It took me a full afternoon to replace the front panel. I turned on the ignition after all this and the brake lights came on. I can not have damaged any wiring when fitting the new starter. It was a tight squeeze. There is power to the brake light switch and it appears to be constant on the other side of the switch. This is going to mean brake bleeding which i do not like. Is there any other possible problem??? Thanks richard & B.
  15. My gearbox tunnel is out and I am repairing the starter. This gives me easy access to the gearbox dipstick. What is the best oil for an overdrive box on a 3A. The gearbox is in very good condition and has been overhauled recently. I have just checked the oil dip stick and there is nothing showing. I have Comma EP90 GL5 in the box at present, bought from Moss who now only have Dynolite How often does the oil need to be fully changed and not just topped up. The nearest oil I can find is Comma gear oil high performance SX75w-90 GL5. What does GL5 mean and is it better that GL4 semi synthetic Thanks Richard & B
×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

Please familiarise yourself with our Terms and Conditions. By using this site, you agree to the following: Terms of Use.