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Richardtr3a

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Richardtr3a last won the day on May 31

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About Richardtr3a

  • Birthday 09/19/1943

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  • Location
    London sw6
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3
    Old buildings
    Golden retrievers
    Family
    Wine

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  1. I spent a lot of effort on this topic over the years. I have bought many new units cheap and very expensive and they all failed from all the usual suppliers. The copper used is reclaimed and fails very quickly. After many years I found that the best route was to buy an old one and send it to Cox Automotive for overhaul. They do a great job. However after a year the units need resetting. Lucas used to say that they made £5 every time an owner took off the cover. So I send mine back to Cox for cleaning and adjustment. This worked well for years until in 2017 I had a solid state unit purpose made to cope with my output and positive earth. Dynamo Regulators Ltd in Fareham Hampshire. It was £75.00 in 2017. It fits inside the old unit and is out of sight. I have never had to look at the problem again I have a collection of old regulators in the top shelf in the garage and carry one overhauled one in the boot of my car. It may be my imagination but I think that the car runs better. The ammeter never goes past zero and the battery never needs topping up.I can turn on all electrical parts, 2x spot lights, electric fan, heater fan headlamps etc and as long as the revs are about 2K the ammeter remains in the centre. It is impossible to see any difference from inside the engine bay. There could be a problem with overheating so I use an old cover which has a small hole on the underside from being dropped in the garage. The solid state comes built on a heatsink and some air circulation takes care of the temperature. I have three old overhauled regulators supplied by Cox Automotive in sealed plastic bags which I am taking to Stratford -on-Avon tomorrow morning to show on the Bring and Buy stall.. I always wanted to keep my car original but the RB106 was always a weak spot even when new. If you want one of mine send a message via the forum. Sydney is a long way from the Triumph week end. Good luck Richard and B.
  2. If you also find that you need to remove the top half it is tricky. Allow for a long evening out in the garage with coffee supplies. Good Luck Richard and B.
  3. I found that securing the speedo in place was difficult because of access to the round nuts at the back. It was very difficult to remove the support bracket. good luck Richard & B.
  4. The grandchildren are here for the week-end, so I am out in the garage at 7.30 a.m. to fit the hub extension and the wire wheel back on the RHS rear. I have to be out with the family at 9.00. The 4x nuts for the hub extension were difficult to start but after 5 mins they were all on and torqued up. The wire wheel was a tight fit which I am happy with but the chrome spinner was impossible to start. After 15 mins with a wire brush I tried another from the spare parts shelf.The spinner went straight on and we drove up the lane with no problems . I thought that the extensions were all the same and it was the spinners that had left and right threads according to which side they were marked for. So how are the threaded extension and spinners made to work on the correct side. No rain here in Sussex and away up the downs with 3 dogs,TR working, great Sunday morning. Thanks Richard and B.
  5. My distributor was overhauled in 1985 by Aldon. It ran ok but in 2007 I sent it to Martin Jay for a full overhaul, and he found some problems Wear in the shaft Wrongly assembled shackle pivot washers fitted under one weight Wrong springs Springs not matched Wrong weights Wrong vacuum unit and more. He overhauled my unit and ever since the engine starts like a modern car. He did a second one for me so that I have a spare. The condensers made in the far east are very badly made. He makes his own which have much longer foil. I bought a racing condenser for a mini £33.00 and hot starting is easy now. I once had to return from Classic Le Mans and park on a hill at every stop. The new condenser, mounted outside the distributor, has solved all those problems. Martin jay is the only place to find the best quality. Checked file Swiftune Competition condenser SW-IG-CC, not strictly necessary but I like it, after the French trip. good luck Richard & B.
  6. Three of the studs are loose and the movement has damaged the hub extension. I have a good one on the shelf but the loose studs are in poor shape and one is pulling through. I used a long lever to get the nuts tight and one has given up. I drove round the block and the original noise has gone. I would feel happier with an old one in good condition. If I have to have a new one which is the best make,if available ? Thanks Richard & B.
  7. I am looking for a used back hub . If you know anyone who can help please let me know. Richard & B.
  8. Thanks .I will call them this morning. Welding is not a good idea?? Richard & B.
  9. I came home from the Southdown Group Summer Event, this evening, with a vibration from the RHS rear wheel. At home I took off the brake drum and it was not the brakes but three of the wheel studs were loose. Is it advisable to remove the hub and have the welder fix it or should I approach Revington who have an answer? I am not sure of the detail of their kit. Does anyone know or have experience of their repair kit? It looks as if a new hub is not available, from Moss any way and mine is the original which came with the car as new, so I am keen to keep it.. What is the best repair? Thanks Richard & B.
  10. Forget the short life new unit and have your old one fitted with a new sleeve by Past Parts ltd. I had a new slave cylinder fitted at the Lincoln IWE and it failed after I left the showground when I was just past Lincoln. I had to drive all the way home to the South Coast with no clutch and that included the Dartford Crossing. They have overhauled all my hydraulics and it lasts. Good luck Richard & B.
  11. I bought mine from Revington because the Chrome was supposed to be better. Wherever you buy from the pin will wear the hinge quickly and sometimes the fixings are out of line with the car body holes. Richard & B.
  12. I repaired my hydraulics many times until I found a specialist company. They relined my originals with a stainless steel lining and I had no more problems. There is a forum member who cut the old and new master cylinders into sections and microscopically surveyed the surface. The new ones were very rough compared with the old genuine Girling. I have no connection except a very satisfied customer. Past Parts contact restore@pastparts.co.uk 01284 750729 Once they have done it you can give up on the hydraulics and carry on worrying about adjusting the handbrake instead, as I do. Good luck Richard & B.
  13. It is simple to unbolt and replace the washers. But to get a tight seal is more difficult If you have a shouldered bolt you can cure a leak with an extra copper washer. A mobile mechanic came out to my car and showed me how to do it. A better fixing is the stud with no shoulder AUC 1387 which I now have. There are some "o" rings which will offer a seal if you are having trouble. Finding the right ones is harder. Good luck Richard & B..
  14. I like the red car in the picture. I notice that they are fitting the piping to the wing and have protected the paint with masking tape. I have done this a few times and until now I thought that the masking tape was my own idea. At least I am doing it right There also seem to two large lifting eyes. Where are they attached to the chassis? Richard & B.
  15. Past Parts did a very high quality job on my cylinder. The price is worth it if you can stop working on the problem and bleeding air out. Go for it Richard & B.
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