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Richardtr3a

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Richardtr3a last won the day on May 31 2019

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About Richardtr3a

  • Birthday 09/19/1943

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Profile Information

  • Location
    London sw6
  • Cars Owned:
    TR3
    Old buildings
    Golden retrievers
    Family
    Wine

Recent Profile Visitors

1,377 profile views
  1. Can someone help with a fuse rating. I have a relay for the two front spot lamps. The relay takes a signal from the high beam feed and then connects main power. The fuse has gone missing and I am not sure what rating would be correct. It is a coloured blade fuse. I have a card of different coloured blade fuses but can not see a rating on the individual fuses. I need to know the rating and the colour if significant. Thanks Richard & B.
  2. I have replaced my second hand springs, 9.75 inches on the bench, with Revington red stripe and I now have over 6" clearance under the front chassis. But there is a large clearance over the tyre , at least 3 ". I am going to live with it for now. I would rather clear the speed bumps. I can not replace one spring in less than four hours. Do other members manage it faster. I use two hydraulic jacks, a spring compressor, some levers and a soft hammer. Eventually it lines up and I can start fitting the nuts. I have now changed four springs in two weeks. At least it is warmer now. The next job is the rear springs. Is it better to have them reset in Birmingham or start with new? The car is low at the back and the exhaust scrapes on bumps sometimes. I am keen to have them reset but I need advice from the forum. Thanks Richard & B.
  3. This is really useful and points up that I need some special tools. Today I cleaned out the fixed side with a small paint brush. Some of the old grease was very hard ro remove.. Tomorrow I will be out there with some wire wool. I had planned more work on the bike but I changed a front spring on the TR. I have done it before but it took over four hours and one nut disappeared. I was keeping all parts in a magnetic dish and at the end the nut was not there or on the ground. I like doing the work but a bit faster is needed for next time. If it is fine weather again, the other side may be tomorrow. I will have to start earlier so I can pack up before The Archers. My dog Bruno likes it when he finds me lying on the ground, but he keeps away from the hydraulic jack. Thanks for the bike help. I will be back on it full time over the week end. Richard & B
  4. This is a technical problem but not TR related. I am sure that there are some members who can help me. I have the small vintage children's bike that my son had when he was about 4 years old. I started a rebuild about 2009. Recently I have been watching car SOS and it has encouraged me to go out to the garage and pull out the new stove enameled frame and continue with the rebuild. The wheels have new spokes and now need new tyres. How do I measure the size to make an order? There is an axle passing through the frame, for the pedals. There are bearings on both sides. But the balls are loose and run on the axle on each side. One side has a large screw in bearing support ( hub) with a lock nut. The other side of the frame is a fixed hub. I must insert the axle , very carefully , with the bearings resting in place on one end. Once the axle is in place I can place the other balls on the exposed end of the axle on the open side and then screw in the support with the lock nut? I was thinking that I could put them in place on the axle with grease and fit very carefully. But I am nervous that some balls may become displaced and I will not be able to see. Is there some way to hold all these loose ball bearings in place while I finish the fitting. Sorry if this is not the right place for this sort of problem, but the forum has always given me an answer for many problems. Thanks Richard & B
  5. The rivnut is a good answer and was not available when I fitted mine. I have the tool and the rivets and would be pleased to lend you the kiy when I next come to visit my son in Sampford Arundel, near you. It may be next year before people my age are allowed out ??? Your welding would be much quicker. Good luck Richard & B.
  6. Hi Peter, I could not open this link. Sometimes they are underlined and coloured. Is it user error or is my laptop causing problems. Even when they do open sometimes it takes me to Google and not the link I was waiting for. I am sure that this is my problem but any help would be very useful. Thanks Richard & B
  7. I have the same problem and I made up my own answer. Sorry Peter. There are interior handles which fold down on the TR4. I drilled holes through the card and the metal . I fitted two bolts through the handle and the door into the void inside. It was then possible to feed a lock washer and a nut by reaching up inside with no other fixings holding the door card at that stage. I gave up on the lower seal years ago and ST used to take them off for customers. My door hits the sill at the rear lower corner and is worse with the side screen mounted. I have tried reinforcing the top hinge but in the end I have given up and just have to carry on with other problems. Good luck Richard & B
  8. Thanks Mike, Do you know what springs you have and do they have spacers? So it looks as if my front springs need the RTR springs refitted or the spacers with the second hand springs. Has any one else got a measurement. Thanks Richard & B
  9. I have been worrying about my ride height this year. I was close to removing the rear springs and sending them away for refurbishment to Birmingham. I was talking to one of the main TR specialists and he explained that if you raise the back the front will go lower and vice versa. Also if you pack out one front spring to make the front level, to opposite side rear spring will move lower. The whole chassis will pivot around the center. So instead of taking off the rear springs I first fitted some second hand front springs which measured 9.75 on the bench. This has reduced the clearance at the front and improved the rear by increasing the ride height a bit. However Both front and rear tyres are inside the wheel arch with no clearance over the tyre. This morning I measured the chassis to the ground in the center front and it was 3 inches which seems very low. Rob How much does yours measure ? This spring dilemma does not have an easy answer. Richard & B.
  10. I was lucky that I did not go down the s/s route for the shackle pin. I tried to move the pin on a bare chassis and it would not budge, so I gave up and fitted the springs out in the open and fitted the body later.. Good luck Richard & B
  11. Like the passenger a lot in the last picture.
  12. It is very difficult to loosen this front pin. I had my drivers side replaced by Moores of Brighton , a ST agent, and it was years late when I found that they had cut out a square of the sill to allow the spring to slide sideways. This was a major ST dealer !! When I needed to remove a spring years later I was able to remove all the body fixings to the chassis, loosen the steering column and jack up the rear body enough to be able to slide the spring off. All my fixing bolts are stainless steel so I does not take long. But if you have the original nuts and bolts this may be more of a challenge and you could end up with the disc cutter on the inner sill. It does not have to be very high for it to work. If you do try and move yours be prepared for damage to the chassis. The final answer is a stainless steel pin made by one of our suppliers. I hope you have plenty of room in the garage. Richard & B.
  13. Moss and RTR front springs both gave the same height. There were no spacers fitted. I had some old springs in the garage and fitted them. 9.75" length when not fitted. It is now a better height. This is lower than both the other makes of springs I am house bound but it is so cold outside that I can not spend more than 1 hour in the garage. It takes an hour to find the tools and that new part waiting to be fitted. Thanks Richard & B.
  14. I use a socket which I modified to fit better. I ground the face of the socket absolutely flat so that the maximum amount of the stud nuts is covered. I had to replace four studs on the rear of my 3A after they came loose. I tried the new tapered nuts but the old ones were better quality material and it has been alright for two years now. I had a slight click from the wheel and ended up replacing the wheel, hub extension and studs. Good luck Richard & B
  15. I had problems with my water pumps for many years. In the end I sent my original away to a forum member in the Netherlands. He rebuilt it with a stainless steel shaft and special seal. While it was away I fitted a " County " pump which I bought from Revington because I was near them. I has planned it as a stop gap only, until my special was delivered. But it did not leak and has been on the car since March 2016. I have the special pump in the boot for fitting if I have a problem away from home. It is best to buy a new belt pulley from the same supplier as the pulleys vary in size and quality. It is also important to calculate the clearance of the impeller to the housing, to make it as close as possible. I am assuming that the water pumps on your TR5 are basically the same as the TR3. Probably the same problems anyway. Richard &B
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