2long

Can't be many California TR2s for sale still claiming one owner! https://www.ebay.com/itm/1954-Triumph-TR3-One-Owner/254167313092?hash=item3b2d8d6ac4:g:1eoAAOSwo4Vcjn96 Dan

Could the bores of the master cylinder be corroded? Rebuild shops typically rebore the cylinders (with stainless) Dan

Is the long door on the bottom? Sure wish there were more pictures - its tantalizing! Dan

Ok, I am going to follow up with this thread, which has an amazing result! Rod B. (Rodbr) agreed to take on the task with JB weld and eye of newt. Having done one before, he was either a genius or a crazy man to volunteer to do mine, which was on death's door. The result is below, and I am so pleased he was able to preserve the original part, or at least give it a fighting chance! How about that patina of a refreshed surviving original part, which happens to be as rare as hen's teeth! I will report on it further once bolted up and put into service! Cheers Dan

Can we see more of the photos please? Thanks for posting this. Dan

Hi oxf2! I had my original TR2 dynamo rebuilt by Cox Auto Electics, along with the Voltage Regulator so they could be done at the same time. That had the benefit of keeping my original parts, and generally the rebuilt original item is better than any repro. Not cheap, but they are good. On my other TR2 engine (Doretti), I am using a Moss replacement one, unbranded, and it has been good for a couple years so far. Cheers Dan

The Doretti has some of the best of both worlds in that regard:

I sent this one to you from my nice outing this afternoon. I love my Doretti! Cheers Dan

Was there a display of the early thermostat housing at Stoneleigh? Dan

That adaptor fitting looks useful to me as well! I am gonna throw in a big thank you to Rod B., who has undertaken not only to get my frozen capillary tube fitting sorted, but to renovate the entire double thermostat housing with near-fatal corrosion. That is what this club is really about, and I hope I can pay it forward myself sometime. Cheers Dan

There is a helpful tool called a flare nut wrench, and I have heard that actually tightening a bit might help unstick it too. Of course, mine was so fused nothing worked so I’m just chiming in. Dan

For my TR2 I used a thicker (and fairly expensive) copper head gasket to compensate for a shaved head, with the benefit of not raising compression, and not having to change rods or use shims to get the rocker geometry within the adjustment range. For the Doretti, I am using shims under the pedestals instead, but I haven't gotten to the point of firing it up to see how it works. I am curious to follow up on Ed H's response and learn how the geometry will be affected on the pushrod side as opposed to the valve side. There is a good company here in the States, British Frame and Engine, that does shorter pushrods in a variety of lengths. Cheers Dan

I had not seen this project and I am not even sure if I like it, but it's impressive anyway! https://www.rcnmag.com/garage/alloyed-success Cheers Dan

I was wondering about ultrasonic cleaner followed by buffing? Cheers Dan

Gulp - DIck's comment is spot on and the top of the water pump/housing is actually touching the underside of the head extension where the thermostat fits. So off with the water pump to grind the top of it a bit to create a bit of clearance, and double check the torque of the head? Or do I have to redo the head gasket?