Z320

Hi, I have a different view on that. An ampere meter is a very useful instrument – but the issue of lots of questions and complaints from standard customers. Some examples wanted? “Every time I open the door (when the interieur light became standard) the ampere meter shows negative – there must be a problem” “with the engine off I can’t keep the radio switched on – because this discharges the battery” “When I use the cigarette lighter I always have a massive current problem, this damages the battery” “With my new radio I always have a positive current (becaus

In my personal opinion, but I could be wrong, an ampere meter tells you very fast about a problem while a voltage gauge with "12 Volt" from the battery still tells you everything is OK. Just an idea...

The hoses have to be too tight when cold, because hot and under pressure in the car they become wider. To fit new and "too tight" ones it is a good idea to put it for 10 minutes in very hot water. You will see how much easier you get it fitted. I fitted the standard quatity from Bastuck 10 years ago and after several times in and out I see no reason for new ones.

Hi Hamish, what in your opinion is the benefit of a voltage gauge instead a ampere gauge, please? Ciao, Marco

I made it very simple my own because I did not know there is something missing / available to buy.

Yeah I know

Today I did some bending for the new gearbox crossmember, on top a test bend from 0.6 mm steel sheet to pick up the dimensions, next the one I bended from 4 mm steel, sadly it could be wider on the top (wrong calculation) for the speedo angle drive. This way I saved the situation, this gives me more space, now I only have to cut "the wings" smaller. Sorry Malcom, no progress on the EPS, this challenge was more interesting... Ciao, Marco

H, found this Triumph for sale at Ebay small adverts Germany https://www.ebay-kleinanzeigen.de/s-anzeige/triumph-tr7-tr-40-umbau-mit-v8-motor/1642341827-216-7245 Ciao, Marco

With a look on the few photos at the internet they at least have to cut off the bracket which is welded on the bulkhead

How deep are the rods in the rod ends? Lenght = diameter is deep enought in my opinion, please realize: a nut is shorter than 1 x diameter. Ciao, Marco

BTW: your rods are old?

With the car jacked the track rod arms are not horizontal but guide down, this is a longer way and in this case they seem to be too short. You can imagine the triangle? The car on its wheels the rod is the adjacent, the vertikal lenght down is zero. But with the car jacked it become to be the longer hypotenuse? Means: the toe in and out is also not always the same while you are driving and the suspension is in action. A better construction would use rods as long as possible. This changes the length of the hypotenuse relatively less. I have already seen that

Hi Malcom, sorry me for this delay, had (and still have) a busy week at my job, I will continue this weekend and perhaps finish the metal work. Ciao, Marco

From the BMW R 90S (a motorbike) I know, if the piston does not move back in the correct position no brake fluid can flow from the reservoire to the piston. On the R90S this flows through a simple drilling, on the TR5, 250, 6 this my be the "tipping valve", I don't know, just an idea. Good luck!

If the pistons of the Wilwood calipers have a smaller surface than the pistons of the original Girling calipers you have less force on the brake pads. I guess this is the issue, because I studied and calculated the surface of several "suitable" calipers. And their surface has always been smaller than the surface of the Girling pistons.