Z320

Hi Ed, your construction is was I wanted first, so more likely I copy yout construction! Is this a 20x20x2 mm square tube to bend in your roll bender? I guess this will be e problem with my construction, perhaps not if I would have taken a 50x50x4 square tube and not only 40x40x3, but this is what I had in my workshop. See this video, I liked it very much (switch off the "noice"). I only did not want to have the material to bend direct on the bearings to avoid them cracking. And I fixed the upper roller on the 40x40x3 bar and have the rollers wider than the bar.

Hi Peter, you are kidding me? this are big boxes for big parts, ever ever one of them was falling though one of the holes. Well, I have been at the right time at the right place to get 6 of them for a "thank you". Ciao. Marco

What is the most desirable thing: to make your wife happy! Currently she told me: "perhaps you could make me some rose arches for the garden for the path along the house, I can't find them tall AND solid enough.......................before you start another car stuff" (no futher discussion, please, no concilation)) A model was made quickly and I got the confirmation the next moment. The tube will be 1/4" heating pipe (13,5 x 2,35 mm). I'm allowed to grow hops on one of them Looking for a tool to bend the tube correctly I found some solid enough at eBay

The benefit is a massiv reduction, but indeed to make it DIY is a not easy job because of the dimension of the ingoing gear box shaft, it has tractor dimensions and the common concentric clutch slaves are from cars. Most of you know I made some of them, my post about is out there on the heap.

Yes, the RB106/2 is not current adjustable but current sensing too. About the RB310/340 current voltage regulators: This ist from the brochure "LUCAS, Service Training Center, Generator Output Control" page 15 from 28. Indeed we "overanswered" Christian's question, Christian, sorry for that

The TR regulator RB106/2 has current loops around the voltage coil and is current sensitive too. They RB310 and 340 may be better on a discharched battery, but the original RB106/2 on my TR4A works without problems. Back to Christian's question This ist from the 1970 brochure "LUCAS, Service Training Center, Part 4, Generators" page 17 from 24 Ciao, Marco

Thank you for your laud and orders, the first one I made Christmas 2014 and the dimensions of the body are still the same, only with the lock itself I changed to a cylinder key lock 2 years ago. My own lock insert I had to sell several times "fresly" from my car to other TR drivers because I was not perpared to have a second one with me It's always a pleasure to get in contact with others all over the wourld because of this item. Yesterday to a guy from South Germany (Lake of Constance) Ciao, Marco

Because the whole system is oversized. edit: And do I remember correctly: you use a 86°C bellows and the indicator is "nailed" on your gauge (earlier post)? Than you need the bypass anyway more than with the 71°C summer thermostat, recommended by the (German) workshop manual. Anyway: I recommend not to limit the bypass to much (not smaller than 8 mm diameter), even on a 20°C summer day it needed to have as much as possible flow thought this old cast iron boiler under the bonnet. 8 - 8.5 mm bypass in combination with a wax thermostet fully opened (hot) works to hav

This is the common saying and hope BUT not at all true. If you compare you see the bellows thermostat is a horrible plug forcing the flow in the bypass, and the sleeve has a wide gap to the thermostat housing and can’t close the bypass at all. My measurement showed me with the bellows thermostat with sleeve there is never less than 30% of the flow going the bypass. I‘m still so angry about the stories I‘ve been told years ago about the „winder sleeved bellows“ and about the money I spend to buy one. This could be the reason why the Triumph engineers made a modification

This are my videos on my YouTube accout. The first one shows the MASSIV flow by the standard water pump, the second one shows there is no need to worry any air in the system because the pump is a MONSTER, keeping the air already in the flow while the engine is only idling and the thermostat closed. There is no need to worry at all (as long you don’t drive with PVC hoses!!) Ciao, Marco

In my opinion the standard one is good enought, all about „uprated“ is solving not existing problems. Btw I have never seen any cavitation on any impeller. Best you can do with a TR4 engine is to do what Triumph did with the TR4A: kick the bellows thermostat in the bin, fit a wax thermostat and reduce the bypass on the pump housing down to 8-8.5 mm, not smaller, please.

Your photos are always some kind of „different“. This reminds me to my younger brother. —-> no criticism, I like that

Hi Peter, thank you for your laud and the links, I‘m still learning every day. Indeed the trick with the calculated washer on a 3 jaw chuck works well - but as you shure know only on limited offsets before the working piece falls through the 2nd and 3rd jaw. My DIY face chuck also works well, but holds the pieces only from on top. My hope is the 4 jaws chuck solves some „problems“ I never had until I bought my lathe (to live without a lathe is possible, but very sad….) Ciao, Marco

For a fast and easy change of the mount the bolt right side of the gearbox to the mount is @)=!!&%@ annoying! The one which goes through the gearbox flange and holds the exhaust bracket from below. The hex head (on top) is out of reach for a spanner - and the lower nut you can't move because is is welded on the exhaust bracket! Who had this idea, please? I had to cut the gearbox cover out to reach the nut. Ciao, Marco

If you want to have it easier next time to change it, cut out the rear bending (down) of the crossmember, than you can slide the mount with the crossmember on it out to the front. That‘s what an earlier owner did on my TR4A and this it what made it real easy for me. The photo is from another one of my posts. Ciao, Marco