Z320

When I wanted to do this modification realised for me: to lift the drill up makes the levers shorter and the brake more powerful - but it makes the way you an pull on the cables much shorter. This allows less play in the hole construction, so my handbrake still works the TR4A way. In my opinion this mod by the factory was a desperate acting and made the whole poor construction "better worse".

Well, I have some different challenges his days and a brake to get some new ideas is always good. At eBay I found this photo of a not complete MX-5 NA gearbox that make me hope to move the gear shift housing forward without opening the gearbox itself.

What is the thickness of the friction plate? Is it without grooves? This both are used but OK, the left one is back in my car.

Sorry me, you threw that ball! What I see is a friction plate from strong sidewards, so there is nothing to realize than a friction plate. And a clutch plate with blue reflections and dirt spots?

Like a clutch?

Hi Matt, are you ready for a different point of view? If it was fine before be happy about its quality. And if it is still strong enough I would fit it again, new is about 8 mm, worn (I have bern told) is 6.5 to 6.0 mm. I refitted mine currently with 6.65 mm because of special reasons - and it works lovely. Ciao, Marco

Other countries - other habits. At Germany the car registration number is fixed to the town or county and a personified number is more or less easy. My TRs number is WN-TR 401, 400 sadly was not free, 4 is only for vehicles with a urgend need for short numbers. TR-400 or any other TR combination is possible at every county, for example 20 km next at Stuttgart (S), Esslingen (ES), Ludwigsburg (LB), and so on. If I sell my TR to Frankfurt it will get a different registration number F-xx-number there, also if I move to Frankfurt. WN-TR 401 then will be free again. This way I was able to get a old reg numbers for a new car which I had on use on cars I sold years before. Isn't that strange?

Graham, that's it and that's great! Thank you very much! Ciao, Marco

We had a very nice TR4/A workshop in my garage with two newbies from our Stammtisch yesterday. Very interesting what can be wrong on this cars, really made "better-worse", and they drive anyway without substantial problems!

sorry me, there have been two links to PDFs anywhere about the gearbox rebuilt, a very good documentation? I can't find them anymore, who can guide me please? Ciao, Marco

This might look painful, but once picked up it was no problem to "adjust" all drills. Now it fits with dowels and bolts on Wolfgang's engine plate, this goes back tomorrow at the Stammtisch ready for flat countersunk drilling like this

I sadly destroyed some clamps like the Mikalor clamp by using them on the exhaust, so I never use them since. They have been all not strong enough for a REALLY tight fit, the stainless strip is too thin and the ends are bended outwards and are welded outside on the strip, some with a sharp bend (which I pulled very fast straight, then off). If you want too use something like this on the exhaust I recommend to buy PA-RI clambs, a small German producer. Their strip is bended inside and holds more tight the more you tight them up. I have one reliable supplier for them, all sizes cost about the same price (not cheap), but this is a honest price because the effort to produce them is always about the same. I modyfied a pair of them for the radiator top hose from ellen head to a more classic domed hex head. I like them...

Sorry me, my thoughts are this: - the crankshaft is in line with both gearbox shafts (in/outgoing) - on the first look the assambly engine-gearbox looks like being vertical in the car - but indeed it is not - the front end of the crankshaft is about 7 cm higher than the end of the outgoing gearbox shaft - the hole assambly is inclined about 3° down to the rear (my own calculation) - with the cogs spinning the oil is splashing up to the selector shaft, runs them down by 3° to their ends and to the seals - inside the gearbox top cover - in the overhanging part - is a nasty sump of oil, on the rear at the seals some [mm] deeper then on "entrance" - all the oil wants to go there and all the oil wants to go out there sooner or later - on the drawing in the manual the "entrance" works like a rim (?), then doesn't let all oil flow back This I assume, I have to make a close look if this is of any interest: - the gearbox extension (with the outgoing shaft spinning there) is coned - so 3° in the car the ground of the extension is about vertical, the oil there flows back to the gearbox - there is no oily sump and no rim there to see on the drawing on the manual

Hi, do they all have a solid bolt on the flange or is there a model to use with the standard bolts, please? Or is there one with a turnable flang, I've seen photos of models like this. Mille grazie in advance, Marco

Sorry me..