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Z320

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Z320 last won the day on February 3

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  • Location
    Germany, Stuttgart
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A IRS

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  1. Today I had not much time to work on the project, so I only did the connectors for the pipe work. The upper one is a standard (with some modifiations), too short for the bleed nipple, so I made a longer one from machinery steel. Will got out with my wife today for some greek eating after a bussy day in the garden. Kaló vrády, Marcos
  2. Hi Andreas, I reported some days ago with ths photo: I put the unit body with the tube on the small adaptor, put it on the lathe and grinded the rim out with my Dremel. The paper and tape keeps the dust away from the unit - so sorry me - there is nothing to see. Ciao, Marco
  3. Hi, today after office I made the first fit in the gear box bell. Thought it could be a good idea to double check the remaining room with the Sachs hydraulic unit compressed: about xy.0 mm we wanted and we got 1.5 mm less, enought to use the Sachs clutch until it is totally worn out. Next check with die unit decompressed shows we have got enought way. Perhaps tomorrow I start with the pipework (hope my lovely wife has not too much work for me in the garden and on the house). Ciao, Marco
  4. Z320

    Lever Arms

    I only found them at Rimmer
  5. Z320

    Lever Arms

    Hi Phil, I'm sorry, I sold them and probably will not make more. But I know Rimmer Bros. offers the standard quality and since about a year (?) a better one. They look very solid and I know about a good quotation at the german TR forum. Hope that helps you. Ciao, Marco
  6. Hi Waldi / all, here comes the photo. But perhaps the Sachs bearing also works with the B+B clutch...? This is how we bold the adaptor plate on 4 points on the gearbox, using the original threads, the 4 threaded bolts are clued in the DIY connectors with Loctite strong, to have units - and also to get it oil sealed. The "needed" (?) 2 upper ones are very specials made, because the countersunk screws need 6 mm material, but it is only 4 mm. Perhaps we quit with the 2 upper bolts / connector on the next unit, this will saves a lot of effort. Bolts with cupper washers and Loctite clued connectors in the gear box (imagine there would be one). Adaptor plate on the gerabox cover and 4 connectors. To get the hydraulic unit on the plate, a little tricky: had to lift the gaider and cut the plastic ring to bolt the unit on - and have to refit it. On the work bench no problem, in the gearbox bell no joy. What I realized first now: the hydraulik unit is turned clockwise - with the drills perfect fitted 45°/90°/180°! It's about 3.5°, we are shure this does not mather and perhaps helps us to bleed the system. We could set the squared drills and triangled drills on the adaptor plade with 3.5° difference - and get in contact with the lower left bolt - or also quit with this and save some more efford. Next is tho fit it all an empty gear box shell. Ciao, Marco
  7. Hi Waldi, the Sachs clutch (not the friction plate) needs more travel, but is new about 2.5 mm shorter. The difference is the release bearing! The sachs bearing is about 10 mm lower than the original one. I'll make a photo later....
  8. Hi Waldi, I do not care about that, the unit has a gaider and the situation is the same on the OVO. Yersterday I spend some time to calculate if the OVO unit can be used with an adaptor with the Borg+Beck and original release bearing. Yes, but air / play for abrasion is only 5 mm on a new clutch, the the clutch will not work anymore long before the friction plate will be worn. We want to get 10 - 11 mm air, as on the original sleeve. Other thoughts are how to make the construction more simple and easier and faster to bolt on the gearbox. Already got an idea.... Ciao, Marco
  9. Hi, a question from Russel at another thread made me realize we lost the drill on the ground of the guidance tube (left). I suppose this is to drain oil from a leek lip seal to avoid to get it throuhj the tube in the clutch / on the friction plate (and to oil the sleeve on the tube). This is how I solved it. A ring made of 3 mm spring steel keeps the lip seal on distance to get a gap to drain the oil. This will fit anyway, the seal is taller than the seal seat. New tap 5/16 UNC is in, connectors are ready, only waiting for this "§$%&/! bolts.... Ciao / Cheers, Marco
  10. Hi Andreas, this is about how we do it and how everyone can make this his own project, this with the hope to get some advice / help from others and benefit from their experience. We do not want to sell anything. When the first unit works, we will only do 2 more (A, B and me). Ciao / Cheers, Marco
  11. Hi Waldi, you share what I realised with Russel's question: this is to oil the sleeve as a construction detail - or it is a overflow for the case of a worn seal. And this is what I have to make shure on your hydraulik unit project! Russel does not know, he helped me very much to realise this. Ciao Marco
  12. Hi Russel (?), your question gives me an idea for another project and I want the ask for your assistance, please: when you put the release bearing and sleeve/collar from the gear box cover, is / was this well greased, oily or try? Reason for my question is: the last days I modified 2 gearbox covers, one you our hydraulik "Sachs" project (left), one I made shorter for a simple Sachs release bearing (right) with therefor made sleeve (middle). On both there is a drill on the ground of the guidance tube, I suppose it is to oil the sleeve on the tube with lost oil from the not 100% sealed gear box lip seal..... The old seals habe been outside tin metal, pressed in cast iron - and maybe it was never the plan to get this 100% sealed - to oil the sleeve. Please could you have a close look, report and get part of our hydraulic project. Ciao/Cheers, Marco
  13. new, bigger adaptor plate is ready to fix it on the 4 threads of the gearbox cover I had to bring all 4 to the same high lowest was 9.35 mm high, is now 9.30 mm highest was 10.5 mm, is now also 9.3 mm working on the connectors my 5/16 UNC tap went worn, have to order a new one...
  14. Hi Andreas, we have two shafts as master pieces, one 30.60 mm, the other 31.60 mm, both do not go through. You agree with me, it is easier to modify the OVO (Opel-/Vauxhall-Omega) hydraulic unit than to buy another gearbox Ciao, Marco
  15. Hi, I use cardboard from a simple writing pad for this, slightly put some grease on it and let it lay some days aside. Ciao, Marco
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