Z320

Issue: gear box, no special model. Like Peter, but I used "tank tape", a little bit sticky to remove, will get soft when old - I had to realize.

Issue: electric, no special model. I used a thin (computer) mousepad. Ciao, Marco

Issue: "gearbox, prop shaft, differential", or "rear axle, differential, drive shafts", no special model, not only TR6 had that only 7 months ago at "general technic", with a different article sadly lost there in the "big heap" Later I discussed this with a friend, he made several diffs. He told me this dimension is originally writen on the top of the pinion. I don't know if it is true.... Ciao, Marco

Did you have a look through the engine on the cams?

Issue: gearbox, no special model Please see photo for the breather drills

Yes, on all bolts of the brake I use always Loctide medium.

Issue: brakes, or general technic, not related to any special TR model Hi there, had to change my brake discs and found the 4 bolts holding them on the hub not tight. Not slack, but they have been very easy to open, I'm shure the discs moved while braking! Reason was, the guy who restored my TR in 1992 painted the surface of the front hub - and the paint never stands the preasure. And with different thickness of the paint the discs can tumble (this was not the case). I removed the paint from the surface and locked the bolts with the torque told by the workshop manual. This should be Ok for the future. Please realize this, also with your whire wheels adaptors and your steeel wheels on the other side of the hub and on your brake drums. I would like to reccommend you to have no paint in between. Ciao, Marco

Yes, some years ago I wrote this post But I did not use a hammer!

Also a notice from me to the last video: in the drills through the head there is old oil, crud and rust, if you slide the head over the studs the threads work like a rasp. The crud falls out on the gasket and it will not be sealed. Don't ask why I know! So with a new head gasket I first put the gasked, than the head on the engine, then screwed the bolts throught the head in the engine. This worked well.

In my forum structure there would be no issue anymore like TR2/3, TR4/4A,.....! Because they are not basically "different". Impossible? Imagine the wourld would be a ball, not flat - as we know it today. Ciao, Marco

Allow me to mention, it is very sad - the structure of this forum. This question is the same on all TR2-6 and this post would be easy to find on the "issue" brakes. Other issues would be: gearbox, steering, wheels/tyres, carb, ignition.....all the same or similar the same. Very easy to find in such a system. Ciao, Marco

Today out with school friends on the Stuttgart Weihnachtsmarkt, behind is the temporary ice skating rink at the Schlossplatz, Foto made from the museum "cube". Cheers

MGB633M1144, brake pads RS/Mk2 Escort/Capri, but without warranty, I have not fitted them yet! Thanks to Andi's advice on this thread

Hi Pete, put a straight bar of steel or a lineal over the drills. Does it lay flat or are the drills "punched". This happens when the bolts have been tighten too strong. How does the seal paper looks like?!? Is it broken in pieces? Looks like this with the seal on the engine. Same issue - bolts too tight, drills punched.

Please don't take my question not that serious, but seriously - did you remove the paint from the surfaces where you bolt the manifolds on? No critic, just a question for my interest. Ciao, Marco