Z320

POM works excellent on the lathe, nylon gives a horrible surface, PTFE I don’t know

Hi Peter, POM (and other "good" plastics) you can’t glue, I made gaps and fitted o-rings to compress Ciao, Marco

Black or white POM, it has different badge names, one is Delrin (DuPont)

Hi earckens, just looked the 1st time today at a computer on the forum and noticed today is your day! Happy birthday from me, have a good day and always fun with your TR. I love your X-mas tree! Ciao, Marco

See my video at Youtube. Thermostat closed, air in the flow already with the car idling. At the end the thermostat starts opening AND you learn why you should never drive with clear PVC hosed

Hi, the coolant pump keeps all air in the coolant flow via the bypass or later via the rad. No bleeding hole needed for that. But what is the bleeding hole needed for? Filling in coolant in an empty rad and empty engine the coolant level raises up in the rad and the same level in the engine. BUT in the engine it raises up only if the thermostat has a bleeding hole! This is the only reason and situation the bleeding hole (on some thermostats a gap) is needed. Look at your thermostat with hole and a jiggle, please, if you have one. The jiggle SEALS the hol

my and your dimensions are pretty much the same

Sadly I only own a TR4A, and yes, I hearded 4 VS 4A have different lenght. With only 4 posts we are talking already about 3 different lenghts. - the rack without tie rods (my answer, sorry for that) - the rack with tie rods, this is what nothing is asking? - the rack with tie rods an tie rod ends 1,023 mm pretty sure is with tie rods, but without tie rod ends. On my TR4A rack the threads on both ends of the toothed bar are 1" long, with the nuts fully on the thread it is about 1,000 mm long with the tie rods connected. Ciao, Marco

Hi Alf, great to hear I you like my post, I will make a sketch for you. The Slovenia pump I have not seen before, I'm very pleased to see not everything comes from China. On the Slovenia pump the shaft is only pressed in and does not go through, for safety a DIY shim makes sure not to loose the lever in the engine. I would always try to get an original pump and restore it. Ciao, Marco

Hi asker without name, without the tie rods and without both connection to the toothed bar it is 655 mm thread end to thread end on the old rack that came with my TR4A LHD. Ciao, Marco

Hi Stuart, thank you for your laud, I love to do such things. Making them is alway a creative act and gives me quiet and peaceful moments in my workshop. Ready now, browned and locked now, I'm comming one step closer to the real project which I want to continue... Ciao, Marco

No need for me with IRS axle and "new" Goodparts hubs, but a great job and help for others from you, Bob!

How did they check it blows fuses? In the car with the switch still connected —> it could also be a cable / switch problem. Ciao, Marco

Yes, not explained at the TR4 manual, I would have been very pleased about this. But the PO decided this weight are worth to kick in the bin (they have been missing). Sorry us for drifting this thraed so much. Ciao, Marco

Hi, being a bit lazy with working on TR "issues" this summer I thought it would now be the time to make gearbox #1 ready to sell. Next thing is the speedo drive, which I make slightly different from the 1st one. Using a printer belt and cogs to speed the cable up to TR revs is the same, this spins surprisingly free (with the shafts in mini ball bearings). That’s new: I need no reverse sprockets, the cable goes out above the frame and Crossmember (the wooden block) to the right side (in my TR4A to the left side and below the frame) with the speedo cable n