Z320

I recommend to measure the batteries voltage.

Hi, last weekend it was too cold in the garage to work on the window boards for our new entrance. Started yesterday afternoon and finished today, tomorrow I fix them on the windows. Ciao, Marco

Hi Tony, thank you for that, I always thought it is not possible to shim it but have been convicted it works some weeks ago. That's OK, but what about a pulley with too much offset? The one with 38 mm? Ciao, Marco

Hi, cold and Corona outside today - but sunny. So I had a lovely test drive and I'm very pleased with the handbrake now. It will be better when the new brake shoes are full bedded in but guess finally not as good as on a new car. But I can now already brake down any speed by the handbrake to zero fast and without problems, even steep downhill. My "spacer and spring" solution is about half as good but easy to make and anyway much better than the original. Job done, next is coming up. Ciao, Marco

Hi there, for my 4 cylinder I own several water pumps and pulleys, in combination with each other always with a different distance from the pump body to the middle of the type 20 belt.... This is (44.5 mm + 28.5 mm)/2 = 36.5 mm, others are 35.5 mm up to 38.0 mm! Is there any documentation / does anyone know about the correct / original distance, please? Cheers, Marco

Hi Rich, the square holes are there by accident - more or less. If you have a close look you realize this coach builders have been VERY wise guys. Why? This bracket, as a plain sheet of metal, is 100% the same on the LH and RH! Bend it for one side, for the other side "mirror" it and bend it the other way round. So you got 2 different brackets for LH and RH from 100% exactly the same sheet of metal. With 2 not needed square holes on one side. There is another bracket on the TR4A (and up to the TR6) that causes questions because of 2 "not needed" drills for this reason: the one welded on the frame for the front axle. It's the same bracket on both sides of the car - but you need only 2 of the 4 drills. The ones on the front on one side are at the rear on the other side. Ciao, Marco

On my TR4A LHD, looking from behind in the direction of driving From the book "Collector's Guide" from Graham Robson, also a LHD TR4A, looking drom left to right

On the right side of my TR there is the horn relais fixed, if I realized that correct. Guess the screws are sheet metal screws.

BTW, what I remember, I wanted to replace the nuts some years ago, but they straight went to the scrap because the angle of the cone was the product of chinese nightmares. A set of new wire wheels adators I had to countesunk new because they used a standard 118° drill for that

Good to point this out! I threw all bi-hex sockets in the bin about 15 years ago and only use metric and imperial hex sockets since that. And a set of 'multi lock sockets' for bolts and plugscwith square heads!

Hi Steve, in my opinion bleeding is never the problem on our TRs. If your previous thermostat has no "little wiggle pin" try to look through it against a strong light. I'm shure you see the light through a small gap caused by a little "bend" or "notch" on the valve disc. And if not: don't care, as above: bleeding is never the problem. Ciao, Marco

Hi Phil, I made my own links with rose joints years ago, but this was much effort. The uprated Rimmer links seem to be a good and easy solution to me. Sorry about I make you worry about the paint: it can not hold the pressure and your wheels can go slack. Why I know? The previous owners of my TR painted everything, so I had slack wire wheels adaptors and slack brake discs until I realized. One the photo above you see how the paint moved away, fine if you had no problems. Ciao, Marco