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Z320

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  • Location
    Germany, Stuttgart
  • Cars Owned:
    TR4A IRS

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  1. If you find all tight, like I always did every time I checked it: on my TR 4A the problem was the slack castled nut of the ingoing shaft of the diff. I thought it cannot become slack, because it is fixed with a pin or wire? But indeed it was because the massiv washer under the castled nut was punched by the time. Ciao, Marco
  2. Hi all, thank you for your interest, I talk to the workshop and keep you informed. Because of holiday of the workshop this could need some time.
  3. Hi Pat, yes indeed, he told me but the mail adress he gave me is wrong. And he doesn't answer. One of the ordered lock inserts is yours! I answer you later by PM Ciao, Marco
  4. Hi there, I had some serious orders so I made some of this lock inserts again. If there is interest for more, I will ckeck a cooperation with a local workshop. So don't hesitate to tell me - but I can't promisse. Ciao, Marco
  5. short test, this must wait, with my MX-5 gearbox I can't lift the engine high enough to get the old ones out (MX-5 gearbox touches the buldhead)
  6. Grease on the splines is always a problem because it will be pushed on the cones. Grease what ever you want to slide, and keep propper free from grease if you want not. A mist of oil/grease on the splines is more than enough - as often we put this wheels off and on. Torque them up with 300 Nm, for 250 - 300 hp with 500 Nm. 300 Nm in not that much..
  7. I'm happy with the octagon nuts and a selfmade lever tool. 60 cm long x pull as strong as I can (50 kg) = 300 Nm. To safe my back I pull from the "please marry me" position
  8. Did you have rattle noises from the lever? Do you know the post with AndyR100's recommendation about? Simply browse "rattle" and look for his post (can't link that on my smartphone) Good luck, Marco
  9. Hi Ian, torque the center nuts up with 300 Nm. They are not self tightening like some folk may tell you. The splines don't allow this - as they also don't allow to slack the center lock nuts when you brake. Ciao, Marco
  10. Hi Ralph, good you found out, but you now arrange and agree with a wrong replacement pump. Please complain by the suplier who sold you, tell them the hole story and demand your money back. Perhaps he reacts and sells not more of the problem pumps to others. Ciao, Marco
  11. Parts are in, look very good, a bit softer than my old ones - but they are old ones! This could be a nice Saturday...
  12. The "Kangaroo effect" on my car was (absolutely annoying) when the car was rolling downhill under low braking load with low revs (high gear), also when I change from "rolling without gas / low braking load" to minimum gas to keep the car gently rolling, gently accelerating. I'm conviced this is because of the valves in the trottles and is now mainly gone. I can only guess the valves open definitely by a high vacuum (high braking load downhill, high revs) without any problem, the mix is weak. But open-close-open-close by low vaccuum and cause this by themself! The mom
  13. Just a short update, I cleaned and use now the bodies of the other pair of HS6 with the trottles without spring loaded valves. They work much better than the pair of HS6 that came with the car when I bought it about 12 years ago. Specially the mixture is better and very clearly to adjust. But the car still suffers from not constant tickover revs. First the tick over revs are OK, than revs fall slowly until the engine dies. My idea is - I have not enough advance, that causes a spiral down: less advance - lower revs- less advance- less revs- less advance... death.
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