Z320

Hi Robert, I always used standard spanners and locked them „tight“. Due to the spanner‘s lenght this is automatically about the correct torque. How do you get there with a torque wrench, please? And yes I see: your tool slipped over all hex bolt heads, both I can see are damaged…. Ciao, Marco

Hi Malcolm, I would help you, but I own a 4A… Good luck for your car registration Marco

With the brown-blue cable direct from the starter solenoid it was clear he has no ammeter….

That’s cool!

Harry, instead of a pedal stop you should fit s smaller master cylinder diameter. You will be surpised how much a 0.700" or 0.625" master reduces the forces, if you not already fit it. Ciao, Marco

Don't worry! Best results for common TR owners is to fit a 0.625" master.

Hi Dave, use a 0.625" master cylinder and if needed adjustable push rods. If you know what clutch cover you are using you possibly could change it, but this is much more effort. The B&B "new design" needs more force, the B&B "old design" less. The Sachs 3082 100 142 is another good possibility. I wrote a post about some time ago But please don't focus on the cover, the 0.625“ master is more benefit. Ciao, Marco

With some phantasy you all should be able read it?

Found it, that was easy! https://www.kabel-schmidt.de/tipps-zur-kabelauswahl

Hi, I remember a German supplier, he offers a listing of old and new cable diameters (outside). But sadly the wire diameters are not listed at the TR workshop manual and David has not the original one to measure. If I remember correctly the German supplier also offers a listing of recommended wire diameters related to the current. I‘m a bit bussy, perhaps somebody browses the website from for www.Kabel-Schmidt.de Ciao, Marco

David, this is why my earlier question is if you always drive with light and H4. The loom was not made in the 60-ies (from Triumph maybe never) to do this). It was getting pretty warm as long as I did this… With smaller cable this could be a problem. Ciao, Marco

Hi, what I would do is to check the diameters of the cables of the now worn loom - and also on the new one. The cable to light switch and from there the cables to all lights are in a bundle and along the steering column through the dashboard. With too small diameters they will heat up each other pretty much. Ciao, Marco

On the carpet?

Every lequid boils, depending to the temperature and pressure in the system. A non-pressurized system is under atmospheric pressure, at the Swiss alps it is only 0.8 bar on top of The Gotthard Pass. This is why water will boil there at already 80 deg. Celsius. And this is why it is always the best to have a pressurized cooling system, even it is only 1 bar (atmospheric pressure on sea level). To avoid any disappointment it is very likely every producer of coolant will recommend not to use it in a not- pressurized system. Ciao, Marco

Hi, "forget" my post above, please and sorry for any confusion: all is the other way round, the anticlockwise spinning finger moves clockwise to early. This is from my check with my Powerspark unit from 2020, installed with the knurled nut in the middle position. 1st adjusted with the timing light, then checked with the marks on my crankshaft pully. Next photo 4° BTDC (correct on the 4 cylinders) Next photo 24° BTDC, the finger moves clockwise (earlier) With my new Ignitor the position is a miimum more clockwise Ciao, Marco

Hi, I can't help on thís thread with an induvidial loom, but what I see on the photo above is a poor crimped connector on a cable that has been glown. This remindes me to a (from a friend) wrong connected ampere gauge (connectors without insulation blocks between, voltage directly on the gauge body). Luckily the ground cable of the gauge illumination was the "fuse" and the metal to metal conatct to the dash board was poor! Ciao, Marco

David, I’m even more confused….. You used a standard new loom, which is made for a TR4A with generator. And you used the brown-blue cable to connect the battery with the solenoid? It has not the dimensions to do this! And I don’t know where you can buy the colour combination in the needed dimension to use it for this. Your photo is from under the dash? Some more and better photos are needed, please. Ciao, Marco

David, I‘m a bit confused…. The cable from the batterie via the solenoid is black and very solid! Your TR is on fire before this is serious damaged…. The cable from the ignition switch to the solenoid is white-red, isn’t it? Brown-blue is the cable from the A1 regulator terminal (as good as the battery) to the light switch? Do you use no LED bulbs and always drive with light switched on? Ciao, Marco

Once I met a Volvo SP 1800 guy, he was pretty amazed and jealous about this feature! Why should it not work and be usefull? On my 4A with ignitor 1 it works.

Hi Waldi, when was before, did you have problems?

Hi David, sad to hear! What was the last you did on the car? Ciao, Marco

I have no worry with classic points...

Yes but No 2) doesn't work on a electronic ignition because it only works when dynamic This is why the moment the "points" open has to be checked on the mark on the crankshaft pulley 3) in the best case the left side of brass strip should line up with the pickup in the worst case it lines up with the right side of the brass strip and not anymore on full advance From my check years ago some photos: #1: "OK", but could be better (edit: perhaps starts loosing contact on full andvance) #2: Worse (edit: more likely loosing contact at full advance)

Hi Any, there is a difference on turning the distributor for the main adjustment (change the position of the pickups in relation to the distributor finger) and the final adjustment via the knurled adjuster (turning the braker plate). A friend of mine bought an electronic ignition, which was installed in a poor position on the braker plate. This was the reason why the braker finger did not line up with the pickups. This is why you should mainly adjust via durning the distributor in an advantage position, than finally via the knurled adjustor. And than check th

SLK = Sportlich, Leicht, Kompakt not Kompressor