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About mikeh

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    Solihull, West Midlands

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  1. Hi Don, I'm sure there will be others too but the firm I've used is E. P. Services - link below: http://www.ep-services.co.uk/ Hope this helps Regards Mike
  2. Hi Pascal, I've previously used multicore solder as a substitute for the lead linger - it works well. You need only a few inches and, if you don't have any in the garage, short lengths aren't expensive on eBay and are readily available. Hope this helps Regards Mike
  3. If you have the original two-coil RB106 regulator fitted, an alternative approach is detailed in an article by Dr Hugo Holden: http://nebula.wsimg.com/9b5ab93a42d604fc86461adc4d298878?AccessKeyId=967E22DE049163134A29&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 This involves swapping the A and A1 connections and, as explained in the article, gives significantly improved performance. It can't generate more output from the dynamo of course, but it does give better voltage regulation and reduces under/overcharging across the load range. Apart from swapping the wiring, all that's required is a slight adjustment of the voltage regulation setting, which is easily done. The paper also details the fitment of a diode to protect the voltage regulator contacts - again a very simple, cheap and effective modification. There's a lot of other TR-related reading on his website and it's well worth a look: http://www.worldphaco.net/ Regards Mike
  4. Just to update this thread ................. I did eventually find someone to supply/fit the required throttle spindle bushes. Most of the usual suspects either wouldn't touch Strombergs or would only do the work as part of a complete overhaul/refurbishment. However, both Southern Carbs (as recommended by Stuart) and G.W.Carbs would fit bushes to a stripped-down body, which is what I wanted. I opted for Glen Watson at G.W.Carbs - despite his web address (www.sucarbs.co.uk) he does deal with other types too. He did an excellent job quickly and at a very reasonable cost. (Usual disclaimers, etc. I'm just a satisfied customer) For other reasons, it's taken a while to get the car back on the road, but the end result has been very satisfactory. While one would probably never call a 4-pot TR idle 'smooth', it's a lot smoother than before and pulling away from rest is more progressive too, especially when cold. I didn't think the play was really excessive at c5 thou, but was clearly wrong as sorting it out has made a big difference. If anyone wants any more details then just let me know. Regards Mike
  5. I’m looking to replace the carpets in my TR4 as they’re somewhat the worse for wear. Having researched previous posts on the subject, the consensus seems to be that the sets from the TR Shop offer both a good fit and good value for money (I’m looking at a standard set rather than wool). However, they’re currently out of stock and, having been promised some weeks ago that they’d be in by now, I’ve just been told that they’ll be at least a further 4-6 weeks. Does anyone know, by any chance, who actually manufactures these for the TR Shop or whether their supplier’s carpets are available elsewhere? Based on the good reports on the forum, notably from Stuart, I’m somewhat reluctant to go elsewhere but am open to any helpful suggestions. Thanks Mike
  6. Hi Bob, Thanks for the very kind offer - much appreciated. I think I'm ok at the moment but, if I have a problem when I've been able to get a better look at the faulty one currently fitted and compared it with my spare, then I'll get back to you if that's ok. I may be missing something (ref John's post above) but there doesn't seem to be anything obviously handed about the spare (there's no part number on it) but, without a closer look at the door internals, it's difficult to be certain. Regards Mike
  7. Hi, Is anyone able to tell me whether the door remote control assembly is handed? There are two numbers in the parts book (750171 & 750172) but, on the face of it, it looks as though it should work on either side. Any help appreciated. Thanks Mike
  8. Hi Steve, You have a PM Regards Mike
  9. Hi Steve, I'm in the process of refurbishing the seats for my 4 at the moment and decided to cut my own foam rather than pay the eye-watering prices you mention. A square of 2" thick material large enough to do the base or back of one seat cost me £6 and a large sheet of 1/2" for the edge, etc (large enough for both seats) was another £10, so I paid £34 for the foam to do both seats. It's very straightforward to cut and shape the blocks with an old bread knife and, by sticking sections together, it's easy to build up the required shape. I'm fortunate to have a foam shop nearby but there are others around and on the internet too. Incidentally, Dunelm also sell a good selection of the thicker foams although they don't appear to do the 1/2" sheet. I suspect that the foam for the 6 seats is a bit more complicated than the 4 (I have the fairly simple 'Type 3' seats) but, nevertheless & based on my experience, you should be able to sort it yourself at a fraction of the cost. Hope this helps Regards Mike
  10. Hi Berry, Yes, it's definitely not a job for which I have either the kit or the skills, but there are quite a few carb rebuilders around. The challenge has been finding one who will a) deal with Strombergs (a number of them won't) and b) will do the re-bushing on its own without it being part of a full rebuild. I've now got a couple of promising leads so hopefully will get it sorted. Regards Mike
  11. Hi Stuart, Thanks for this - I'll give them a call. I've also found another place which might do the work so hopefully I'll get something sorted. Regards Mike
  12. Hi Peter & Jochem, Thanks for your replies. The early CD175 carbs, as fitted to the TR4/4A, don't have the spindle seals you describe, so, although the bearing sounds a very neat & easy solution for the later carb design, unfortunately it doesn't work in the same way on the earlier one. As the spindles run directly in the carb body and it's the body which is worn, there doesn't look to be any alternative to machining the body and installing a bush/bearing of some type. Oversize spindles are available for SU carbs but seemingly not for Strombergs. I'm therefore looking for a supplier who can do the necessary machining & fitting work and has some experience with this. Thanks again Mike
  13. Hi Kevin, Thanks very much for that - I hadn't spotted that Moss actually do a bush for repairing the worn carb body. I think these are probably designed for SU carbs as they're for a 5/16" throttle spindle whereas the Stromberg is 8mm but, as there's only a few thou difference, there should be enough wall thickness to allow them to be reamed to suit. That's a great start so I now need to find someone who can do the machining work necessary to fit them - any suggestions gratefully received! Regards Mike
  14. Last year, I rebuilt the Strombergs on my 4 and, after some faffing around with float levels, got them running a lot better than they had been previously. However, the one issue which I was unable to tackle was that of leakage around the throttle spindles and I've now concluded that this is why I’m struggling to get a decent idle. There's no wear on the shaft - it’s actually the carb body which is worn as there was no bush fitted originally and the spindle simply runs in a bare hole in the casting. It’s difficult to measure the wear but, using a dial gauge, I reckon there’s about 5 thou (imperial) of play. As I’d like to stick with the Strombergs, I’m looking for someone who can make/supply/fit suitable bushes to deal with the problem. Unfortunately, the spindle size is not the same as on SU’s so, while I’ve found quite a few suppliers offer a re-bushing service for these, they’re not able to do the same for Strombergs. Any suggestions of suitable suppliers would be appreciated, even better if they’re in the Midlands! Thanks Mike
  15. Thanks for the Ebay link Iain. I had spotted this before and am trying to get some dimensions as, just to complicate matters, there was more than one size of mirror available and I'm not currently certain which I've actually got fitted. From what I've found out to date, there was a Mini variant (the Ebay ones) and a larger version (which is what I suspect I have). The heads differed in size but I'm not yet clear about the bases. Regards Mike
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