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mikeh

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About mikeh

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    Solihull, West Midlands

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  1. Hi Pete, Have sent you a PM Thanks Mike
  2. Hi Willie, As mentioned, I recently bought GSD 111 (48") as a replacement and it fits fine, although I must admit I hadn't spotted that Revington actually list GSD 113 (51") as their recommendation. The 48" version doesn't seem tight in any respect so the extra 3" is probably neither here nor there really and either cable will be a big improvement on what you've got at the moment. The route, at least as my installation, is between the rear of the rocker cover and the battery, with a supporting p-clip on the driver's side battery clamp, and then down between the master cylinders to th
  3. Hi Willie, The Moss catalogue shows the TR4 RHD tacho cable as 48" in length and this is what I've recently fitted to my own car. The part number is GSD111 and its used on many other cars of the same era so is widely available. You'll find that this will fit much better than your present cable which looks to be quite a lot too long. Hope this helps Regards Mike
  4. Hi Don, I'm sure there will be others too but the firm I've used is E. P. Services - link below: http://www.ep-services.co.uk/ Hope this helps Regards Mike
  5. Hi Pascal, I've previously used multicore solder as a substitute for the lead linger - it works well. You need only a few inches and, if you don't have any in the garage, short lengths aren't expensive on eBay and are readily available. Hope this helps Regards Mike
  6. If you have the original two-coil RB106 regulator fitted, an alternative approach is detailed in an article by Dr Hugo Holden: http://nebula.wsimg.com/9b5ab93a42d604fc86461adc4d298878?AccessKeyId=967E22DE049163134A29&disposition=0&alloworigin=1 This involves swapping the A and A1 connections and, as explained in the article, gives significantly improved performance. It can't generate more output from the dynamo of course, but it does give better voltage regulation and reduces under/overcharging across the load range. Apart from swapping the wiring, all that's required is a sl
  7. Just to update this thread ................. I did eventually find someone to supply/fit the required throttle spindle bushes. Most of the usual suspects either wouldn't touch Strombergs or would only do the work as part of a complete overhaul/refurbishment. However, both Southern Carbs (as recommended by Stuart) and G.W.Carbs would fit bushes to a stripped-down body, which is what I wanted. I opted for Glen Watson at G.W.Carbs - despite his web address (www.sucarbs.co.uk) he does deal with other types too. He did an excellent job quickly and at a very reasonable cost. (Usual disclaimers, etc.
  8. I’m looking to replace the carpets in my TR4 as they’re somewhat the worse for wear. Having researched previous posts on the subject, the consensus seems to be that the sets from the TR Shop offer both a good fit and good value for money (I’m looking at a standard set rather than wool). However, they’re currently out of stock and, having been promised some weeks ago that they’d be in by now, I’ve just been told that they’ll be at least a further 4-6 weeks. Does anyone know, by any chance, who actually manufactures these for the TR Shop or whether their supplier’s carpets are availabl
  9. Hi Bob, Thanks for the very kind offer - much appreciated. I think I'm ok at the moment but, if I have a problem when I've been able to get a better look at the faulty one currently fitted and compared it with my spare, then I'll get back to you if that's ok. I may be missing something (ref John's post above) but there doesn't seem to be anything obviously handed about the spare (there's no part number on it) but, without a closer look at the door internals, it's difficult to be certain. Regards Mike
  10. Hi, Is anyone able to tell me whether the door remote control assembly is handed? There are two numbers in the parts book (750171 & 750172) but, on the face of it, it looks as though it should work on either side. Any help appreciated. Thanks Mike
  11. Hi Steve, You have a PM Regards Mike
  12. Hi Steve, I'm in the process of refurbishing the seats for my 4 at the moment and decided to cut my own foam rather than pay the eye-watering prices you mention. A square of 2" thick material large enough to do the base or back of one seat cost me £6 and a large sheet of 1/2" for the edge, etc (large enough for both seats) was another £10, so I paid £34 for the foam to do both seats. It's very straightforward to cut and shape the blocks with an old bread knife and, by sticking sections together, it's easy to build up the required shape. I'm fortunate to have a foam shop nearby but th
  13. Hi Berry, Yes, it's definitely not a job for which I have either the kit or the skills, but there are quite a few carb rebuilders around. The challenge has been finding one who will a) deal with Strombergs (a number of them won't) and b) will do the re-bushing on its own without it being part of a full rebuild. I've now got a couple of promising leads so hopefully will get it sorted. Regards Mike
  14. Hi Stuart, Thanks for this - I'll give them a call. I've also found another place which might do the work so hopefully I'll get something sorted. Regards Mike
  15. Hi Peter & Jochem, Thanks for your replies. The early CD175 carbs, as fitted to the TR4/4A, don't have the spindle seals you describe, so, although the bearing sounds a very neat & easy solution for the later carb design, unfortunately it doesn't work in the same way on the earlier one. As the spindles run directly in the carb body and it's the body which is worn, there doesn't look to be any alternative to machining the body and installing a bush/bearing of some type. Oversize spindles are available for SU carbs but seemingly not for Strombergs. I'm therefore looking fo
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